Ford Focus RS Forum banner

LED Light Bar/Rally/Aux/Driving Lights Megathread

78K views 118 replies 36 participants last post by  320icar  
#1 ·
Meant to do this a long time ago, but better late than never. Here are the threads that have discussed light bars:

Anyone running a light bar?
Aux driving lights
Spot Lights
Rally lights?
Light bar can't be wired up to work
(If I missed any I'll add later)

Mods not sure if these can be combined, or if it's even necessary, but just wanted to put everything in one place.

A year and a half ago I was on a mission to find the brightest LED light bar for the money for night driving purposes. I think it was posted several times, but my first RS was totaled by a rather large elk - I won’t post it again but you can find it easily by searching for “elk rs crash” on youtube or possibly here. My search started well before that of course and I had a very bright light bar on the car by elk time, but there was no warning at all. Basically the more light you’re projecting at night - especially if driving in a spirited manner - the better. I had close calls long before the elk and since, and they’ll continue to happen.

Anyway, as I started my light bar research I noticed there weren’t any good review sites. I’m not talking objective, no-advertising sites like consumer reports or thewirecutter.com, there really wasn’t anything except a really old site that catered to non-LEDs. A few others, but nothing comprehensive. So I did a ton of research on every reasonable light I could find, and put it all in a spreadsheet here.

Several things were apparent up front:

-Rigid seemed to be the clear industry leader, super high quality but with very pricy
-There were several others such as VisionX which were said to be of high quality, but needed to be ordered from overseas which would complicate what I was trying to do - order a bunch of them, then return the ones I didn't want/others didn't want, etc. There seemed to be enough good lights available from distributors within the U.S. anyway.
-Most of the sub-$100/ebay ones could put out flood light, but it takes power & quality design to project and that costs money
-Black Oak LED seemed to be an interesting case where they had basically copied just about everything from Rigid, with the same or very close extreme high quality, and were selling for about half the price. At close to $600 they would have the most expensive light I would buy.

For testing I selected the three best sub-$100 lights that had good reviews, a quality middle of the road option, and two Black Oaks for top of the line. At that point in time, from reading all the reviews and looking at all the specs, I just couldn't justify spending a grand on Rigid, no matter how great they may be. That may have changed though, as I just took a look at Rigid's site and looks like they've been up to some amazing things. In case you hadn't noticed yet, all this stuff is about a year old, and it'll be up to you to fill in what's happened over the last year or so. Or me, but don't have time at the moment and trying to get this out due to @BigFatFlip 's nagging. :)

I actually have to get going now, but we did take some very not good pics which seem to have degraded over the past year even further, but at least should give you some comparison. The three cheap ones are really only flood - they are better than nothing if you're going slow, I guess. #4 - they are numbered same as listed in the excel spreadsheet - the Speed Demon was the cheapest light considered acceptable, but did the job. Looks like it may have been aimed low in that pic. #5 was a bad pic, in real life it was better than #4, and it was the Black Oak single row. I still have #4 & #5 and am running the Black Oak - so yeah, that pic is bad... don't look at that. #6 was the Black Oak double row and had by far the most light output. Unfortunately it was either stolen or more likely fell off the front bumper of my STI at the North Sand Dunes showing Jeeps up - as long as you have clearance it's all about the power - but yeah I wish I had that one back.

I ran into some health problems and never returned any of them; gave a cheap one to a buddy, have two more cheap ones to give away or close. Willing to sell #4 at a good discount, and in fact same with #5 because...

One thing I learned is that you get what you pay for, and that light output... these lights are worth their weight in gold. The more light, the further in the distance you can catch those eyes, the better chance of not wrecking, totalling, killing an animal, yourself, or a passenger. In the past month I've seen over 120 large animals, had a deer dive in front of me, tuck & roll (if not for left foot braking he'd be dead and might have some decorations on my bumper cover) just under the front lip. I will say this about the really bright lights though - several times I've had large bucks start to charge the car for a moment before backing off. I'm very familiar with "deer in the headlights" but something about the intensity has made a couple of the start to come at the car which makes for a very puckering moment, but lasts less than a second and they take off.

By the way not trying to push those lights on anyone, just mentioning if interested. They've been sitting in my basement for a year and a half and will have no issue staying there. Oh and as to why I'd be willing to sell the best remaining light I have that's currently on my car: once you experience the light these put out, how much more you can see, and how much safer it is, you want more. I never imagined I'd keep a close to $600 light, and now that's the bare minimum. If I sell that one I may even test out a Rigid. All I know is that the light on my car has paid for itself many times over, and projecting light is something I'm willing to fork over the cash for as much as tires.

Some pics:


Few more here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vrwj7fvCql3W7QlVr2tE7ZkW3vYC7-eV

I gotta run, but will post a simple wiring diagram for people to wire the light bar to their brights (thought I saw mention of CANBUS - not needed) - this may have already been explained but I know when I go to wire something it's easiest if I have a diagram to look at. Then I'll try to catch up on what's happened over the past year or so. Anyone who has updated info feel free to post, tell me I'm full of crap, etc. Thought I had a couple other things but will get to the later. Thanks again @BigFatFlip for reminding me about this - I have several more posts that need to be made (lift and something else I think) but will get there.
 

Attachments

#42 · (Edited)
Figured I'd share this here since it might be relevant to some.

I recently got an email from rally innovations about their light plate set-up for baja designs lamps and that its finally making production. Unfortunately, it only comes as part of their "R4S platinum" package based on their SEMA build, which comes with diffusers, side skirts, etc for a whopping $3.5k! (with a $1k pre order).

https://www.rallyinnovations.com/collections/focusr4s/products/focus-r4s-platinum-package

I replied to them the availability of the light plate as stand-alone part but no word still. Too little too late for me obviously, since I already went full rallytard lol

Update: Got a reply. They are waiting on feed back and demand on the aforementioned packages before deciding on selling the pieces individually. Seems like an @$$ backwards way of doing it, but maybe there is some economy going on in the background to get these made.
 
#46 ·
Got an update regarding the Rally Innovations light plate: It looks like they either got enough funding or enough interest to warrant a run of the light plate, so they are now available for pre-order here


$800 seems a bit steep for my taste though...
 
#49 ·
I just pulled the trigger on these. I'll report back when I have something to report back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigFatFlip
#51 ·
Kinda confused....

It lists a pre order que for 15 Sep 19.
How much is the deposit they speak of, $799? or is that the total?
or is it $799 deposit of?
 
#53 · (Edited)

I got these installed before my trip to Tail of the Dragon. The install is incredibly easy; no drilling, cutting or splicing. All you need is a screwdriver and a T30 torx. A pushpin puller would also be helpful. I opted for the splitter so I'm running these with the factory fogs. Light output is significantly brighter than factory, but these are only fog lights. If you're looking to turn night into day rally style, these are not for you.

The 3D printed mounting brackets are flexible, but sturdy. I tested them very thoroughly on the twisty roads of the Smokey Mountains and they took everything I threw at them. I also traded a lot of messages with Aaron, the seller. He is a PE Mechanical Engineer and fellow RS owner. He has also tested them extensively before offering them up for sale.
EDIT FOR PIC:
335794
 
#54 ·
just paid for my Rally Innovations light plate. had one on my ST with 2 squadron pros and 2 squadron sports. will be doing the same setup on the RS, spliced into my brights. hasn't gone into production yet(allegedly they are waiting for one more person to pay their invoice), so it will probably be a couple months before i receive it. I'll be sure to post pictures when i receive it
 
#56 ·
FINALLY got my Rally Innovations light plate/light mount this past week. Took a good long while, although I expected it and was prepared to wait. Standard Rally Inno fare, their product is somewhat overpriced in my opinion, but no one else is doing anything like it so I'm okay with having to pay a premium. Especially on this RS light plate, I believe they only made 10 total, and they have to make money off it. Will be installing sometime during Christmas week, via the same method as I did with my RI light plate on my ST(splicing into the brights). I saved my 4 Baja Designs Squadrons when I sold the ST(2 sports and 2 pros), and bought Baja Designs own splice harness. Probably won't take pictures of the whole install, it's pretty straightforward anyway. I will post pictures of the end product, and give my impression of the fit.
 
#57 ·
Finished my light bar fit out now to my Australian RHD RS. Thought you may be interested. My aim with the car in general is to set up the most competent car I can and keep it as discrete as possible. Hence metallic gray. For the lights I wanted the max output I could get while being discrete.

I did a lot of research on light bars looking for the best. Decided on Lazar Australia. Kirk Marks was incredibly knowledgeable and a great help. I highly recommend them. The result I came up with was a Lazer linear 18 elite light bar, which is right up there in quality and cost (not surprising). It is 532mm wide and 40mm high. 12,150 lumens and 1 lux to 488m.

When I researched lighting heights I got a surprise. I always thought that almost in eyeline best but not so. Recommended height is either lower or higher as it minimises direct glare. Where I mounted it is pretty much the optimum height. Just needs to be above 22cm. To connect it I needed a canm8 interface and a switch so it was linked to high beam and could be disabled. All good for Australian regulation.
340362

This is the mounting position. Very discrete and recessed. Dont mind the red wire, photo taken during install testing. There is no airflow through this section so it is not obstructive and there is great depth so mounting back not a problem.
340363

Note the light end mounts come down from above the aperture. Doing it this way gets two layers of plastic and good strength. Do not mount from bottom of aperture as much weaker. When I came to mount the light I already had the whole front of so easy job. No idea of how hard it is if front not removed.
340364

Detail of position.
340365

I ran the cable to the passenger side of the car so it connected near to the existing wiring harness. Allows it to pivot in same dire tion when removing. Btw, watch out for headlight washer squirt things which poke through bumper. You have to remove covers before totally removing front, otherwise they can break, that is, the plastic lozenge shapes covering them. Guess how I know.

I forgot to photo the wiring run to the relay and where I mounted it next to the battery box. I'll put that in next post. Now to wire the Canm8 interface box. I put this in the under steering wheel trim as shown below.
340366

Yo get this off by removing the trim at the end of the dashboard as shown below.
340367

Remove the door rubber and, using trim removal tools pop out the end dashboard cover. Under here you will find a torx20 bolt which goes into the white nut thingy shown. Undo this first. Once done, use the trim tools to remove the under dash. It is clipped in at the top and sort of pivots on clips at the bottom. It can be safely pulled off.

Before doing any wiring ensure battery 12v disconnected. I find the battery box lid useful to stop the onnector from reconnecting, just put the lid upside down and the connector in it.

I used double sided strong tape to stick the box on. I ran cables to the switch, who h is in a convenient position. Dont forget to put a connector in switch line so the whole part can be removed. The swith takes the 12v relay signal from the canbus canm8 and connects it to the wire going to the relay.

Once you have this access it is easy to move the obd2 connector so you can work on it. Unclog and move it to the main underdash aperture. Unwrap the wiring. Use standard obd2 wiring diagram so red canm8 wire goes to pin 16 obd, black wire to pin 4 obd. Note the obd2 power has a 7.5 amp fuse so is p k as is.

Now need to connect to CAN HI and CAN low.THIS IS NOT STANDARD WIRING. DO NOT CONNECT TO PIN 6 AND 14. RS USES VENDOR SPECIFIC PINOUTS. CORRECT ONES ARE:

Connect white wire to obd2 socket pin 3, vendor CAN HI, and obd2 socket pin 11 vendor CAN Low. Run 12v switched from canm8 to cabin switch via connector, then have a length of wire from switch back from connector. I then taped the new loom alongside the existing headlight controller loom for a neat look.

Before taping up the obd2 connector I connected everything back again and powered up. If it is working then the canm8 shows a steady green light. Use a multimeter or light to check the 12v relay line is switching.

Once finished next problem is firewall. I got an autoelectrician to do it. He went via a grommet behind the battery. Glad I didn't have to. Once done, it all worked.

Hope this helps.
 
#58 ·
Thought I should add a bit more for the complete story. Here is the wiring for the lights in the engine bay. As mentioned previously, I got an auto electrician to put the wire through the bulkhead. $135 Aus. Worth it.
340632

The cable to the front assembly is on the rhs of the car looking forward. My cable, in black, has a connector hidden further forward so all wiring can be detached. The spot photographed is a good place to hide a few turns of cable. When removing front I intend to cut the wrap to give me more slack if I need it.
340633

Cable run goes between battery and fuse box. I need to keep an eye on rubbing where it goes over the rail.
340635

Detail of relay position a nd mount. There is a small space between the battery, fuse box, and firewall. Fits relay perfectly, which mounts to battery box. Ground is picked up from the rear fuse box mounting bolt. Power wire runs alongside main cable to battery plus.

So how does it go? I was struck by naturalness and evenness of light. Colour temperature matters to me as I hate the blue hid colours and want natural. Spread is excellent and even, no hot spots at all. As I was used to the old days of spots and spreads and steering the car to paint the road at night this felt different and a bit unusual. However, now it feels more like daylight driving without compromises of old.

Intensity was impressive given discrete size. I have not been able to get to my calibration valley where I have exact markers for range but at first assessment very good there too. Not like plain led light bars. I guess this technical excellence no surprise as other variants used on the Ford M-Sport World Rally Team Cars and also the winning 2019 Hyundai WRC Team.

For any aussies who want to do to this i can advise and give a hand if needed. I bought the
Iights from Lazer Lamps - Australia website: www.lazerlamps.com.au

Final assessment. PRO. Excellent, high quality discrete solution. I think it is best I can do going in this direction and it looks great. CONS, Expensive but only need one. Could get more light but then into the world of bonnet mounts and much more expense which would be overkill.

I'll do some night shots to show coverage but it will be a few months. I am now in hospital after foot fusion surgery so no weight bearing for 6 weeks. Sort of covid to the max, ah well.
 
#59 ·
Finally got around to installing my Rally Innovations light bar, and I have to say I'm sorta not impressed. So the lights mount to the lower plate, and then there is a piece that bolts on top that puts a plate on top of the lights, and the little uprights on the left and ride. I never thought it was a good look, I thought it looked kinda goofy and that it ruined the distinctive grill lines of the RS. I let it ride though, as I think the benefits of having the lights outweigh the cosmetic cons. When I got around to installing it, the upper portion I described above did not fit right at all. I decided to leave that piece off, and I actually think it looks much better that way. So overall I am satisfied, very much so. I am just unhappy with the fact that I spent so much money(~$400 on the light mount, sans lights), and that I ended up not using the biggest/likely most expensive piece to manufacture. I used the Baja Designs dual light harnesses(x 2), spliced into the brights, all the wiring hidden, nice and clean under the hood. Here are a couple crappy pictures
 

Attachments

#60 ·
That's a shame, but I agree that your modification looks way cleaner. I was very interested in one back when they showed it at SEMA and one of the first things I requested is that it be made in black or the same finish as the front grill cover. I got excited when they said they were taking pre-orders, but when they mentioned it had to be as part of their "kit" I was out. Glad you got it sorted and looking good.
 
#61 ·
I thought the rally innovations light bar had two end wings, a bit like a starfighter, and a lower and upper plate running between the wings? Oh, rereading your message i see that this is the goofy bits. Expensive to buy this and discard it i guess? Is the rest of the mount worth it?

How are you going with vibration, which I find very distracting myself? How even is the spread?

Glad you got it sorted too and happy with it. Every solution is a compromise. What I like about my solution is it's discreteness and that it has no lever arm off the mount, as the light bar sits directly below the mount off the strongest part of the plastic grill, so less vibration risk. I also appreciate that lazar did a great job of beamforming due to how they manufacture the reflectors and having all the leds in one package, which gives me a really good and even spread with minimal vertical dispersion. The lumens are pretty much identical to the recommended Baja designs lights too, which is nice.

Having said that, I like how your solution looks and I'd be really happy with that one too I'm sure. Looks much better without the goofiness of the starfighter ;-)

Btwl, which lights do you call the brights? It's not a term we use in australia. The canbus canm8 thing was a real pain for me so avoiding it is a good idea.
 
#63 ·
Another option: Lazer Lamps from M-Sport, how they have it set up on their Recce. Gotta drill the bumper but I was thinking of reinforcing the mounting with bolts anyway. Might be a while till I get them in hand then another while till I put them on. I'd like to find a more elegant solution to the wiring though, instead of just closing the hood on it.

 
#66 ·
Another option: Lazer Lamps from M-Sport, how they have it set up on their Recce. Gotta drill the bumper but I was thinking of reinforcing the mounting with bolts anyway. Might be a while till I get them in hand then another while till I put them on. I'd like to find a more elegant solution to the wiring though, instead of just closing the hood on it.
I've actually been looking around their website for a while now trying to figure out the best/easiest way to add some side lighting for my light bar set-up. They have several $$$ rally spec set-ups, but I don't think I've ever seen that particular light pod. Probably a specific mount made for M-sport.
 
#72 ·
For the handful of times that I’m driving to the cabin at night I was trying to set up a light bar on the top of my hood. I found some magnetic mounts on Amazon that I connected my light bar to. Now I’m doing the wiring so when I need the light bar I can just pop it on the hood and quick connect it. Not designed for high speeds but enough for backroads at night in the mountains.
 

Attachments

#73 ·
Interesting approach! I would suggest you put some clear bra on the spots where the magnet sticks to. If it's anything like my magnetic autox/track numbers, if any dirt or grit gets trapped in between, you'll end up with little fine scratches on the paint.
 
#75 ·
I had an idea a while back for some hood-mounted lights without having to drill the hood. I finally modeled it up and 3D printed some mock-ups a few weeks ago. I haven't had them formed out of metal yet, but that is the next step. What lights would you all suggest mounting to them? There's a clear shot from one bracket to the other, so a light bar would work, or individual spots.

342394


342395


342396


342397
 
#77 ·
I had an idea a while back for some hood-mounted lights without having to drill the hood. I finally modeled it up and 3D printed some mock-ups a few weeks ago. I haven't had them formed out of metal yet, but that is the next step. What lights would you all suggest mounting to them? There's a clear shot from one bracket to the other, so a light bar would work, or individual spots.
Ooooh I like that alot! when it comes to what lights to mount, I think it depends on what you are trying to light-up. A nice focused/spot light bar would be good if you are trying to throw light far down the road. I can also picture mounting individual lights that you can turn outwards for better lighting around corners (I'd be really interested in getting your bracket for a set of these). I'd avoid the "flood" type of lights for this mounting as the excess light "bleeding" at all directions might make it hard to see out the windshield.
 
#83 ·
No news yet. I've been distracted with my day-job lately. Things are getting back under control now. The next step was to have them formed from metal. Since you're a potential purchaser, what's your opinion on what the finish should be? Unfinished stainless is easiest and most cost effective. Black textured powdercoat steel would look good and probably be as stealth as possible. Black anodized aluminum would be a cost effective compromise of those two.
 
#81 ·
Finally got my lights installed, the foglights wired up nice to the stock harness with the splitter but I didn't wire up the lightbar yet.

Where is everyone routing the switch wiring into the interior?

Where are you guys mounting up the switches on the inside? Was thinking of using the center console cubby.

343798
 
#82 ·
Looks so good!

I think there are a couple of grommets into the interior: one down low on the passenger side going into the glove box and one on the driver side, right below the brake master cylinder, both seem to be a pain to get to.

I ended up feeding my wiring thru the rain channel on the driver's side and behind the front fender, then into the drivers door. I tucked them under the weather stripping and routed under dash via the dash side panel that you can pop out. Mounted my switch on the lower plastic trim panel, right below the left stalk/turn signal, that way it's nearby by if I needed to turn them off quickly with on coming traffic.
 
#94 ·
You will have to be careful with the vertical beam spread. I haven't done it on this car in particular, but I have done it on my previous car (BRZ) and had some issues with the light reflecting off the hood and making visibility terrible. Granted, the BRZ probably has a much longer hood, and probably does not angle as much as the Focus, so just something to keep in mind.