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LED Light Bar/Rally/Aux/Driving Lights Megathread

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78K views 118 replies 36 participants last post by  320icar  
#1 ·
Meant to do this a long time ago, but better late than never. Here are the threads that have discussed light bars:

Anyone running a light bar?
Aux driving lights
Spot Lights
Rally lights?
Light bar can't be wired up to work
(If I missed any I'll add later)

Mods not sure if these can be combined, or if it's even necessary, but just wanted to put everything in one place.

A year and a half ago I was on a mission to find the brightest LED light bar for the money for night driving purposes. I think it was posted several times, but my first RS was totaled by a rather large elk - I won’t post it again but you can find it easily by searching for “elk rs crash” on youtube or possibly here. My search started well before that of course and I had a very bright light bar on the car by elk time, but there was no warning at all. Basically the more light you’re projecting at night - especially if driving in a spirited manner - the better. I had close calls long before the elk and since, and they’ll continue to happen.

Anyway, as I started my light bar research I noticed there weren’t any good review sites. I’m not talking objective, no-advertising sites like consumer reports or thewirecutter.com, there really wasn’t anything except a really old site that catered to non-LEDs. A few others, but nothing comprehensive. So I did a ton of research on every reasonable light I could find, and put it all in a spreadsheet here.

Several things were apparent up front:

-Rigid seemed to be the clear industry leader, super high quality but with very pricy
-There were several others such as VisionX which were said to be of high quality, but needed to be ordered from overseas which would complicate what I was trying to do - order a bunch of them, then return the ones I didn't want/others didn't want, etc. There seemed to be enough good lights available from distributors within the U.S. anyway.
-Most of the sub-$100/ebay ones could put out flood light, but it takes power & quality design to project and that costs money
-Black Oak LED seemed to be an interesting case where they had basically copied just about everything from Rigid, with the same or very close extreme high quality, and were selling for about half the price. At close to $600 they would have the most expensive light I would buy.

For testing I selected the three best sub-$100 lights that had good reviews, a quality middle of the road option, and two Black Oaks for top of the line. At that point in time, from reading all the reviews and looking at all the specs, I just couldn't justify spending a grand on Rigid, no matter how great they may be. That may have changed though, as I just took a look at Rigid's site and looks like they've been up to some amazing things. In case you hadn't noticed yet, all this stuff is about a year old, and it'll be up to you to fill in what's happened over the last year or so. Or me, but don't have time at the moment and trying to get this out due to @BigFatFlip 's nagging. :)

I actually have to get going now, but we did take some very not good pics which seem to have degraded over the past year even further, but at least should give you some comparison. The three cheap ones are really only flood - they are better than nothing if you're going slow, I guess. #4 - they are numbered same as listed in the excel spreadsheet - the Speed Demon was the cheapest light considered acceptable, but did the job. Looks like it may have been aimed low in that pic. #5 was a bad pic, in real life it was better than #4, and it was the Black Oak single row. I still have #4 & #5 and am running the Black Oak - so yeah, that pic is bad... don't look at that. #6 was the Black Oak double row and had by far the most light output. Unfortunately it was either stolen or more likely fell off the front bumper of my STI at the North Sand Dunes showing Jeeps up - as long as you have clearance it's all about the power - but yeah I wish I had that one back.

I ran into some health problems and never returned any of them; gave a cheap one to a buddy, have two more cheap ones to give away or close. Willing to sell #4 at a good discount, and in fact same with #5 because...

One thing I learned is that you get what you pay for, and that light output... these lights are worth their weight in gold. The more light, the further in the distance you can catch those eyes, the better chance of not wrecking, totalling, killing an animal, yourself, or a passenger. In the past month I've seen over 120 large animals, had a deer dive in front of me, tuck & roll (if not for left foot braking he'd be dead and might have some decorations on my bumper cover) just under the front lip. I will say this about the really bright lights though - several times I've had large bucks start to charge the car for a moment before backing off. I'm very familiar with "deer in the headlights" but something about the intensity has made a couple of the start to come at the car which makes for a very puckering moment, but lasts less than a second and they take off.

By the way not trying to push those lights on anyone, just mentioning if interested. They've been sitting in my basement for a year and a half and will have no issue staying there. Oh and as to why I'd be willing to sell the best remaining light I have that's currently on my car: once you experience the light these put out, how much more you can see, and how much safer it is, you want more. I never imagined I'd keep a close to $600 light, and now that's the bare minimum. If I sell that one I may even test out a Rigid. All I know is that the light on my car has paid for itself many times over, and projecting light is something I'm willing to fork over the cash for as much as tires.

Some pics:


Few more here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vrwj7fvCql3W7QlVr2tE7ZkW3vYC7-eV

I gotta run, but will post a simple wiring diagram for people to wire the light bar to their brights (thought I saw mention of CANBUS - not needed) - this may have already been explained but I know when I go to wire something it's easiest if I have a diagram to look at. Then I'll try to catch up on what's happened over the past year or so. Anyone who has updated info feel free to post, tell me I'm full of crap, etc. Thought I had a couple other things but will get to the later. Thanks again @BigFatFlip for reminding me about this - I have several more posts that need to be made (lift and something else I think) but will get there.
 

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#2 ·
I gotta run, but will post a simple wiring diagram for people to wire the light bar to their brights (thought I saw mention of CANBUS - not needed) - this may have already been explained but I know when I go to wire something it's easiest if I have a diagram to look at. Then I'll try to catch up on what's happened over the past year or so. Anyone who has updated info feel free to post, tell me I'm full of crap, etc. Thought I had a couple other things but will get to the later. Thanks again @BigFatFlip for reminding me about this - I have several more posts that need to be made (lift and something else I think) but will get there.
Awesome Gmoney! Very detailed as usual. I've done the same exercise of looking at options and comparing pricing with performance (lumens). I even went so far as to give some of them a call (Baja designs and Lazer were both very helpful).

Wiring diagram or a rough schematic would be much appreciated. I initially thought of splicing into the fogs so I can use the fog light switch and run them in combination with my low beams.

Would also love to see how you mounted the whole thing too. I've taken some inspiration from rally innovations and started designing a sheet metal bracket on Solidworks (3D CAD) that can be installed/uninstalled without taking the bumper off. I think I'm getting close, but have not gotten any chance to do any prototyping.

Well, enough of my "nagging" ;) Hopefully this thread can be the central/main thread for light moving forward.
 
#3 ·
Gracias senor. Good stuff on keeping up with things - what can you fill me in on? :)

I'll try to whip up a quick wiring diagram in the next hour or so, but am really itching to go test out the "impossible" caliper setup I worked on all day...

Mounting was easy, bumper cover comes off easily and you just bolt through that. Saw your post in another thread about wanting to attach to metal and not the plastic - totally unnecessary, just use bolts with sufficient washers. Plenty sturdy. I somehow lost one of the Black Oak mounting brackets over the past year and a half when it wasn't on a car so one side is actually mounted with just an L bracket right now. Black Oak sent me a replacement, but haven't gotten around to installing it so definitely not pic worthy right now. Might be a good excuse to pull the bumper actually, I'll try to do that. Don't make this harder than it needs to be, just pull the bumper cover, slap it on and be merry. Driving without the light feels just plain dangerous, so get on it! Nag Nag Nag!

The one I have on now is straight but I had some pics of the curved Speed Demon & Black Oak double row where the curve matched the bumper, and to me that was the cleanest look possible. And way more light than what you said you thought was the cleanest in that other thread. My pics were incredibly crappy... I'm not sure people realize how much light these put out. Passengers, let alone anyone unlucky to be in the line of fire when lighting them off, are pretty damn shocked at the output and distance. I'll see if I can dig up some pics of the curved ones from the old iPhone, but good chance Apple decided I didn't need them anymore.

On a side note, I have no idea how those last two images in my post were attached or how to get rid of them.... weird

So... what can you tell us about Baja and Lazer?
 
#4 · (Edited)
I highly, highly recommend you wire them in the ON-OFF-ONWITHBRIGHTS with a 3 way switch. Not dimming your brights for an oncoming car is illegal, and not dimming these that can put out orders of magnitude more light can get you sent to Federal-Pound-Me-in-the-Ass-Prison. Except CO maybe. So many Jeeps have aux lights I've never even heard of anyone getting a ticket for them, but even if it wasn't illegal it's seriously dangerous. Flicking the high beams down is a quick unconscious muscle memory reaction for those that grew up or live in rural areas, and should become that for those that spend a good time driving away from the city. Fog light switch is not. You've been driving along seemingly forever without seeing anyone all night and all of the sudden headlights catch you by surprise, making you jump for some odd reason, then you turn your brights on - they weren't on, they were off but it's the natural reaction when startled - fumble to turn them off again occupying the same hand you need for the fog lights, by the time you attempt to find that button it's already been several seconds which seems like hours as you imagine getting hauled off to FPMITAP... then you need to take your eyes off the road to look for that fog button.. there it is, finally get them off - yay! - look up just in time to see that cow you're about to smash into... nevermind the car, what will you tell your friends? A wild animal is understandable, but a cow?!?! They're not quick - no way in hell can you come up with an excuse for this one, how will I ever explain this away? But it doesn't matter because while you're overcome with shame you missed that L and are now launching off the outside which just so happens to be a 3,000 ft cliff... why am I typing this instead of drawing a diagram, need to get off this adderall script... Why the desire to run them with low beams? I'm not sure what you've seen in terms of output, but when a decent one is on, nothing else matters. Brights seem like a dirty fogged up light from a 1970s truck. I'm spoiled. This way you can have it on, off, or on & off with the brights - what more do you want?

I'm trying to find a wiring diagram that's close or has components of how to do it that I can copy, not having much luck at the moment. I'm not sure why it's so hard to find, maybe because I just about lost my mind with the STI's negative switching issue. And people like to throw in multiple relays, diodes, resistors, make the diagram way more complicated than it needs to be. It's pretty simple actually.

First you have the relay which comes with any respectable light that has 4 pins: ground, 12V constant power in from the battery (with fuses), power out to the light bar, and the switch pin. You'll put that relay under the hood near the battery. The other 3 pins are self explanatory, and the switch pin going into the relay is coming from inside the car. More precisely, it's coming from the 3 way - or it may be called 3 position or 3 pole switch.

If you think about how a normal 3 way switch works it would be something like off-low-high or ground-acc-power. What made it click for me was when I learned that you're not going to have a ground in this one, you're going to have two different sources of power and one going into the the relay. So the bottom pin on the switch comes from your high beams, middle is going to the relay under the hood, and top is 12v constant from the battery. When in the bottom position it connects the 12V from the high beam pin (pin 5, will post diagram later) on the back of your headlights - only "hot" providing 12V when the high beams are on - to the middle pin going to the relay. This gives the relay 12V and tells it to turn the light bar on. In the middle position nothing is connected so the middle pin going to the relay gets 0V and the light is off. In the top position it connects from the 12V battery to the relay telling it to turn on no matter what else is happening i.e. your On position. Also known as kill your battery position, because that doesn't get shut off by any smart function of the car to save the battery.

I feel like I'm not doing a very good job explaining this, it needs a diagram, and I need to go blow off some steam, do some caliper testing, get a little sideways, not hit cows, etc. While it's dark out with no surprise vehicles around that blind corner. So I'm going to do that, but I'll come back and put together a proper diagram/explanation.
 
#6 ·
So... I would say you're a bit of an expert at this point... I bought a 20" single row and a 20" double row but i don't like how much spot they have. i'm looking for recommendations on the largest light bar that will fit in the upper gap of the bumper that is almost entirely a flood light.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
I'm not good with blocking the cooling inlets - it gets hot around here, car gets hot too.

Check this for the discrete approach, assuming your HID.?


And in a couple of weeks I should have the not so discrete 'Classic RS' version running and tested. Hopefull no lamp steady reqd.

Mounting is almost complete. CAN Bus High Beam signal interceptor (CANM8 brand - no affiliation) in hand. Wiring very soon. Quite keen to see how clean the light is with these lamps with the lens & single LED globe???

First fitment (pre kangaroo strike damage repair)
View attachment IMG_20181016_000215013.jpg

View attachment Driving lights single side.jpg
 

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#23 ·
I'm not good with blocking the cooling inlets - it gets hot around here, car gets hot too.

Check this for the discrete approach, assuming your HID.?


And in a couple of weeks I should have the not so discrete 'Classic RS' version running and tested. Hopefull no lamp steady reqd.

Mounting is almost complete. CAN Bus High Beam signal interceptor (CANM8 brand - no affiliation) in hand. Wiring very soon. Quite keen to see how clean the light is with these lamps with the lens & single LED globe???

First fitment (pre kangaroo strike damage repair)
View attachment 316850

View attachment 316848
Winter is coming...light pods will be going back on for the long nights.

Lights work great...no vibration at all.
 
#102 ·
Hi I really like the setup with those lights - it looks great !!
Can you tell me what make the lights are and where to buy please.
I'm from The Netherlands and have the exact same car, . . and i would like to have the same look.
Thanks in advance!
 
#10 ·
Necro bump!

Starting to do some planning for my aux lighting project and was wondering what everybody did for wiring ie:

-Where are you tapping for power & ground?
-How are you routing the wiring?
-How are you controlling the lights? Independent switch? Controlled by the stalk? If so, where are you tapping into to control it

Thanks in advance! @gmoneyjive @Bluebyutoo @Magdaddy @ethosguy @320icar
 
#25 ·
Power tap directly from the battery with inline fuses.
Switching by hi/lo light stalk, CAN M8 CANbus signal/12V module, with master switch and relay per pair of lights.
 

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#12 · (Edited)
The problem with light bars are they're so bright that they tend to blind people. The light just goes everywhere.

They're just too bright. If they made a directional light bar that wouldn't blind people, that would work.

I saw many vehicles with light bars last year here in NH, for what ever reason, I haven't seen that many this year. Perhaps the police are cracking down on them.
 
#22 · (Edited)
The problem with light bars are they're so bright that they tend to blind people. The light just goes everywhere.

They're just too bright. If they made a directional light bar that wouldn't blind people...
Hence Australian laws require auxiliary be linked to the hi/lo headlight switch...dip all simultaneously for oncoming traffic or be able just run OE lights only.
 
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#14 ·
I have commitment issues so right now my light bar is just zip tied to the grill of the upper front opening. the weight is resting on the front crash bar cover. I will be making a couple new mounts out of steel now that i know the whole system will work. To be honest the zip-ties hold it in there quite well! i drove around to test if the light bar would bounce around or if the zip-ties would break. Nothing bad happened! I'll post a picture later, I forgot to take one...
For power I ran to the positive terminal of the battery, and for the negative I ran to the bolt just behind the engine fuse box. I will be moving the power and ground connections to the engine fuse-box to clean everything up, there appear to be a couple power and ground terminals in the fuse box that are unused. i'll make a follow up post.
The wires to the actual light bar were run from the fuse box across the front if the engine bay and down on the passengers side, they pass in front of the radiator about halfway down and through the bumper opening.

I still have the issue that my light bar has too much "spot" does anyone have a solution to diffuse some of the spot LEDs, Like a piece of frosted glass that i can cover a few of the LEDs with?
 
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#15 ·
I still have the issue that my light bar has too much "spot" does anyone have a solution to diffuse some of the spot LEDs, Like a piece of frosted glass that i can cover a few of the LEDs with?
I noticed the same issue while testing my light bar so I went ahead and ordered "reeded lenses" from Lazer:

https://www.lazerlamps.com/reeded-lens

I bought a couple of them to place on the far edges of the light bar, which should help spread the light out toward the edges a little bit more instead of a bright central spot. This looks to be very application specific though, so not sure it will work on all light bars and may need some modification.

I vaguely recall seeing something similar at tap plastics, like "privacy glass" with a vertical reed pattern made of poly carb.
 
#17 ·
Mounts arrived and installed. Time to nut-up and drill... [emoji33]
You're brave! Make sure that you check the other side and make sure that you can get a nut on the screw/bolt that you thread through. There's a lot of support and extra sheet metal on the back side of the hood.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Here is the temporary set up. the light bar rests on the crash-bar cover and is located via zip ties attached to the metal mesh behind it. power is pulled from fuse spot F15 in the engine fuse box which is empty. there is a terminal blade sticking up that would be used for the 25A circuit to power the automatic transmission on other models. full write up to follow when i make some real mounts.
Endgame is to trigger the relay from the fog lights so i don't have to add a switch in the cabin.
switching is done by a relay controlled by a wire run through the firewall to the cabin fuse panel.
 
#20 ·
Endgame is to trigger the relay from the fog lights so i don't have to add a switch in the cabin.
switching is done by a relay controlled by a wire run through the firewall to the cabin fuse panel.
Looking forward to it! My plan was to do the same (tap into the fog lights) but I also went ahead and bought a panel mount switch as plan B. I'm also considering tapping into the high beams since that is the more logical, legal and safe way, but this will require some probing.
 
#28 ·
Finally got around to mounting my hood and Lazer lights light bar. The dezus mounts work great and make mounting and unmounting very quick and easy. Wiring was pretty straightforward apart from running the wires into the interior. I originally wanted to tap into the high beams but later opted to just having it's own switch. Not as elegant (and probably not road legal lol) but it made it way easier.
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#29 ·
Got a couple of PMs about the dzus clips so here's a couple of pics. First you install these posts on the sheet metal. The clips then capture the posts when installing the lights.

I wasn't sure how secure these mounts we're when I was installing them but they felt pretty sturdy when installed with the light bar. I am yet to take it on some really high speed stuff (freeway/65mph+) since I've only used them during an early morning run (and taking it off one back on the freeway)
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#30 ·
Massive thanks @campbebc for helping me out with a potentially catastrophic mistake, so in return I've promised to make a wiring diagram for the light bar. It'll be good to catch up on this and a couple other threads, namely the suspension lift one which as you will see in my coming photo essay is 1) an absolute requirement, 2) a demonstration of how stupid one can be and 3) why at this point although I'm no means crypto Lambo guy yet, I'm willing to throw cash at the problem before my exposed intercooler/radiator/bracket/PCM/windshield wash/probabaly quite a bit of stuff missing is taken off by a 5.6" rock. If you don't see it posted, feel free to call me out... I owe you guys this one.

Was also thinking of straight up ordering a Rigid & Black Oak rooftop bars - most light possible for a comparison as a last I checked no one had done that. Hopefully there's some more lights that have been tested but gotta run now...
 
#32 ·
Looking forward to the suspension lift post. I would be cautious with the rooftop light bars. I've installed a couple in past vehicles and have found that they could be tricky on certain cars. Depending on the hood line, if the beam is too tall, you can get very bad glare/reflection off the hood but if you aim it too high, it is basically useless as you'll be lighting the sky. Judging by the hood on our cars, I don't foresee this being a problem.
 
#31 ·
Here is a picture of my car after a small winter rally in Houghton Michigan against a could of friends, 6inchs of snow. 1 st, 1rs(me) 3 wrx, 1sti, and 1 evo. The other is showing where I put my lights, I have no cooling problems with the sitting there, and with them that close to the ground it makes it easy to see all the changes in the ground. They are just bolted thru the grill mesh, bolt fits perfectly.
 

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#34 · (Edited)
I can't believe it was so hard to find the simple diagram, but it's a good thing because I didn't have enough left in the tank to draw it out. High beam wire from switch just splices into pin 5 on the left or green/brown wire:




Edit: I think one of the reasons the diagram was so hard to find was it's using the switch the opposite (or at least very different) way it's supposed to be used. Switch positions and what happens for top/middle/bottom = on no matter what/off/on with high beams only.

FYI the bottom pin on swith that says from switched ignition source - I just brought that straight from the battery w/ a fuse a few inches from the battery.

This car has been insane in deep snow we never should've been in - made it just under a mile into ~10" power purely using momentum and sawing like an animal, only to be stopped by a broken down jeep. Called out everyone I knew who was available, and even the CO offroad rescue people, and 7 out of the jeeps/trucks didn't even make it as far as we did. Actually the first guy was from AAA and looking down the road he said there's no way a Focus was down there. He thought he was being punked by another tow company. Took 10-15 mins of talking to him about rally **** and the fact that he owned a WRX that he finally decided to come after us lol. But yeah, bumper cover is long gone and a lot more will be if I don't figure out a lift ASAP:



I'll post better stuff later and answer questions above when I'm back in commission but am beat. Well ok the one right above - brake swap and big tires worked giving me 5.5" front clearace, but really shoulda just learned/taken the time to lift it in the first place. Also those tires were tolerable to me but likely no one else lol - one size down would be the max for even the craziest.

Need to search the forum, maybe talk to Team O'Neil again - the car they were selling a bit back would work I think (not sure if this is their skid plate or rallitek:



Rebel Devil Customs was a part away a long time ago and seems they still are:



If anyone's got any info on what people are using to lift, post away!
 
#35 ·
Was just messaging @campbebc and where to get the switch/where to mount it came up, so I'll against my better judgement here is a focusrs.org exclusive reveal of my elegant, classy design:

View attachment 330018

Remember that "3 way" switch is really a Single Poll Double Throw (SPDT) on off on switch. Basic one in the pic is available at every auto parts store, but I started looking for a better one, further improving on my award-winning design. And where to mount it. AFTER I get the lift sorted. So if anyone has ideas/solutions lemme know. Alright time to look above because I haven't had the chance to read the last ~9 months of this thread when I posted the other day...
 
#36 · (Edited)
Going thru the thread since I was on here last fall and I'll try to answer any questions I can:

@BigFatFlip
First off, sorry I had to... let's call it go away for a while... and couldn't answer questions sooner. Answering these as I go along and just in case anyone else needs them as it looks like you already did something...
-Where are you tapping for power & ground?
-How are you routing the wiring?
-How are you controlling the lights? Independent switch? Controlled by the stalk? If so, where are you tapping into to control it?
-Battery, anywhere on chassis
-Passenger side gromet, from the inside pull the carpet back... like everything else in this car everything is super tight so it's a ***** and no i don't have pics
-Single Poll Double Throw (SPDT) On/Off/On switch = On no matter what/off/on & off with high beams, battery, chassis, pin 5 green/brown wire on left headlight (should be the same on right but not sure)

I've done it on enough cars now I could do it in 10 mins but still ****ing hate getting thru firewalls on cars you can barely fit a finger into engine bay spaces.

@opera_bob most offroad vehicle light bars will be floodlight, which goes everywhere. For rally/driving at any decent speed you need projection/driving lights, which are usually called spot. Actually that shouldn't matter at all: anyone coming towards you should switch them off. Highly illegal if not. That's why having them switched with the high beams is so useful/important.

@Carlman257 Four bolts thru the crash bar cover and it's not going anywhere. Use lock washers of course. As for too much "spot" I don't have a solution - I'm sure googling light diffusers or maybe stealing someone's really thick eyeglasses to test would work - but any decent manufacturer will offer flood, spot, and combo - go with combo.

@BigFatFlip
I bought a couple of them to place on the far edges of the light bar, which should help spread the light out toward the edges a little bit more instead of a bright central spot. This looks to be very application specific though, so not sure it will work on all light bars and may need some modification.I vaguely recall seeing something similar at tap plastics, like "privacy glass" with a vertical reed pattern made of poly carb.
Thanks for sharing! After the lift is sorted I will be ordering a roof basket and the biggest/brightest bar possible (once you "see the light" you always want more and know it's worth every penny times 10, already avoided many elk like the infamous one), and one of the biggest things was that I was gonna order combo when I need like 80-90% spot and only 10-20% flood for corners. I will look at the ones you linked and google the hell out of other light diffusing options, then try them on a few of the outside LEDs on curved bars to see if it's enough "flood" for high speed/sideways corners. If so, I'll order the whole bar as "spot" so as to not waste any precious light.

@ethosguy Exactly! Unless you're completely offroad i.e. there's any chance of an oncoming driver, you need to be able to switch these off immediately and instinctively. My friends from cities/reasonable level of civilization don't seem to have it, but anyone from a rural area unconsciously knocks down the high beams when someone is coming without even thinking about it. Having to think about it at all is a recipe for disaster IMO. Also if you need your light bar on - which is far brighter than even the brightest lights on the latest cars - there's no reason not to have your brights on. If there ever is, I'm sure someone will correct me, this being the internet & all.

I keep hearing about cooling... aside from the fact that I currently have no bumper cover (speaking of which, anyone who knows where to source one at a non-obnoxious price let me know), I've never seen the temp near max. That's inluding hours of straight driving at or near the limit. Granted this is the rockies with cooler temps, but I think thinner air doesn't cool as well. To each their own, but IMO nothing should stop anyone unless they are already experiencing temp issues. Worse case scenario it gets too hot and placement can be addressed from there. Unless you're in the less than 1% of drivers who consistently push it to the limits, you're deluding yourself about temp issues.

I'm sure switching can be done via CANBUS, fuse box, etc., but with the setup I posted all you need to do is splice into the high beam (green/brown on left that goes to pin 5 on left, not sure about right) wire - that's it.

@BigFatFlip Holy crap, looks awesome! One question: when driving at or near the limit, I have to take my radar detector down even tho it's right of center - anything blocking even a small part of my vision messes with my head. Can you see the tops of these from your point of view, and asssuming so does it cause any issues? But regardless, good stuff! Oh and how are they i.e. how much light do they put out? I've heard Lazer is good, but didn't go with them for some reason... maybe had to order from overseas and wanted someone on the continent in case things needed to be returned or something.

@MikeT Nice look, that's how mine looks most of the winter!

@BigFatFlip
I would be cautious with the rooftop light bars. I've installed a couple in past vehicles and have found that they could be tricky on certain cars. Depending on the hood line, if the beam is too tall, you can get very bad glare/reflection off the hood but if you aim it too high, it is basically useless as you'll be lighting the sky.
Thanks for the info. I'll have to check but I'm short and have to move my seat back several notches - or now seconds with the slow as **** power ones - so I'm pretty sure I can't even see the hood. Will pay attention to it.

One last thing in case I hadn't mentioned it before - manufacturer listed specs don't mean jack sh*t. A bar from black oak (personal favorite thus far) listed as having x lumens will blow away a bar with from a super cheap manufacture listing 10x lumens.
 
#39 · (Edited)
Going thru the thread since I was on here last fall and I'll try to answer any questions I can:
@BigFatFlip Holy crap, looks awesome! One question: when driving at or near the limit, I have to take my radar detector down even tho it's right of center - anything blocking even a small part of my vision messes with my head. Can you see the tops of these from your point of view, and asssuming so does it cause any issues? But regardless, good stuff! Oh and how are they i.e. how much light do they put out? I've heard Lazer is good, but didn't go with them for some reason... maybe had to order from overseas and wanted someone on the continent in case things needed to be returned or something.
Actually haven't had the chance to drive "at speed" with the set up yet since there has been plenty of sun light with the summer at full swing. I usually go for blasts early in the am so will have to get up around 4am to have to need them.

I had them mounted on the hood at a point right below the hood line as to not obstruct my vision. Here's a pic I took at my eye level. You can see that the bar just barely peeks out. We'll see how it is at speed come fall.
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The amount of light in puts out is crazy! I'll have to take some pics, but it definitely throws a lot of light down the center. The reeded lenses spread some light to the edges but not sure how far out since I've yet to use them in complete darkness.
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#38 ·
Any light bar from any reputable company comes with wires, fuses, relay i.e. everything except the switch. If you're going cheap I guess that would be an option. But if you need the light for whatever reason, you should really compare the cheap vs. good ones. Like I said, manufacturer listed specs don't mean ****.
 
#40 ·
Finally had a chance to try the lights out at night. They definitely throw a ton of light far ahead, so visibility at speed was phenomenal. I also pulled over and tried them out with out the reeded lenses and I think the spot light is too focused down the middle, so I'll definitely keep them on there to help light the edges.

At the end of my run, I took a quick video of what it looks like. First with just the DRLs, then low beams, then high beams, then low beam + the light bar. In hind sight, I probably should have picked a better spot since the concrete barrier I was facing really hides the spread of light.


Only down side I've found with this set-up is the amount of glare I get from road signs. You can see on the video above how much they get lit up and they can get very distracting at speed. I also need to find a better way to mount my manual switch closer to the steering wheel sine I've fumbled and couple of times turning them down when coming up on on-coming traffic. I know I should have had controlled by the stalk, but I wanted individual control and it was much simpler to wire.