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I just purchased a 2018 RR RS with 4303 miles. I want a catch can, not taking a chance with any BB.

Has anyone with a catch can actually taken a look at their valves after XXXX miles and documented that? The beginning of this thread wasn't really updated with results from cans or suggestions for cans, but I'm curious what the results are.

It seems Radium is the one to pick? Has 2 cans, has good reviews online. I've seen a few others, but they're only singular can. Are there any other suggestions? Again, I only ask because this thread is 23 pages long, with no easy way to get answers to what I'm asking...
the UPR can is good setup too, what breather plate do you have?
 
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the UPR can is good setup too, what breather plate do you have?
I don't, yet. Car is still getting shipped to me.

My goal is immediate mods for reliability improvement and protection (mud flaps, skid plate, Paint Protection Film), so I'm trying to get a catch can because they've been pretty reliable in the past, seemingly, but I've also never run a DI engine, so I don't know what the results are from a catch can on a DI engine.
 

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You’ll need an aftermarket breather plate really. If going radium get their plate along with their own pcv valve
 

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Went with the Radium plate and the Upr catch can. Haven't see much on the crankcase breather in terms of catching much. That has been like that for all my turbo'd cars - blow by from the pcv but not much (if any) from the crankcase breather.
 

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You’ll need an aftermarket breather plate really. If going radium get their plate along with their own pcv valve
Good to know, thank you.

The car should be arriving today, thankfully, and I'll be ordering things I think I'll also need tomorrow.

Unfortunately, due to the dealership being kinda tight lipped on info (I bought this 3 weeks ago), I wasn't able to get PPF scheduled until JULY 12 :(. Mega sad. So the car will be sitting for 26 ish days. Not driving it until it is protected.
 

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You’ll need an aftermarket breather plate really. If going radium get their plate along with their own pcv valve
Hey,

I don't see an RS specific baffle or pcv for the RS.

Could I use the Ecoboost stang parts?


EDIT: NVM, I see the RS is listed. My eyes missed it the first read around
 

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IIRC there is a breather plate thread. There was a point that someone said the OE breather plate is better than the Mountune V1/ Radium (they share a similar design).

You don't need to replace the breather if you don't want to, the OE one should work with any oil catch can.

However, my opinion is if you are already there installing an oil catch can...... I have a Mountune V2 breather plate and it has more baffling that the prior version.

Damond motorsports and I think there a couple of other ones out there, mainly after market breather plates offers more hose connection options.
 
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The stock plate and pcv valve are well documented restrictions, makes sense to replace it when fitting a can kit, why wouldn’t you
 

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I found one of the breather plate thread:

 

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Anyone want to weigh in? I've had both Radium cans/drains for a couple oil changes now and I get zero from the CC can which is well documented, and VERY little, mostly gas in the PCV can. A little worried. Using the Radium PCV valve only.
 

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Anyone want to weigh in? I've had both Radium cans/drains for a couple oil changes now and I get zero from the CC can which is well documented, and VERY little, mostly gas in the PCV can. A little worried. Using the Radium PCV valve only.
Same here.
Had them both, it nearley chaches nothing.
So, removed both and sold them.
 

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I am still using OEM valves, etc. on my 2.3L with a DIY catch can system. I run a low mileage, track only motor and to date have 0 oil blow-by. I do collect condensation and expect to collect oil and gas in the future.
I am considering modifications to shorten the inlet hoses and relocating the discharge/vacuum line from the air intake to the exhaust, downstream of the catalytic converter.
 

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Anyone want to weigh in? I've had both Radium cans/drains for a couple oil changes now and I get zero from the CC can which is well documented, and VERY little, mostly gas in the PCV can. A little worried. Using the Radium PCV valve only.
I know this will raise some hackles, but, I can live with an oil presence on the exterior of my engine from the HG. I don’t want oil gumming up my intake valves.
1700 mi. of appropriate (RS...) driving.
116E1BF7-D081-42F6-8848-33DD05789308.jpeg
 

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Anyone want to weigh in? I've had both Radium cans/drains for a couple oil changes now and I get zero from the CC can which is well documented, and VERY little, mostly gas in the PCV can. A little worried. Using the Radium PCV valve only.
As I posted in #328 I have blow-by from the PCV (I don't put many miles on the car >currently 16k since Dec2017<), however since my experience with other turbo'd vehicles has been very, very little if anything on the breather side, I decided not to go with the 2nd CC for this vehicle.
I think in a DI system CC is a must in the PCV even if you only get a little. That is less the amount on your valves overall.

Might want to recheck the PCV to see if moves free enough...you may be really lucky and have a car that doesn't do much blow by (a good thing - I'm sure all of us who have more blow-by wish we didn't).
 

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i didnt think of the Syringe and missed that post, will try that instead from now on, im sure its easier then removing the can every month / 2 months, and will save on O-Rings ( have already replaced them once )

Thank you
This is the set up I'm using. 15k miles and havent needed to drain the can yet though...?!?
 

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Could be good or bad lol
lol - yep. Car runs great with no noticeable problems. Oils good, filters good, exhaust smoke/colors good and the small amount of oil that is in the can looks good too - cant complain. :)
 

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Also want to note here that if you can run an oil that has a low Noack level (Noack determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperatures), this can help in the amounts of oil droplets "caught" in your catch can and/or ending up on your valves.
Not all oils want to divulge the Noack volatility of their oils, so it can be hard to find on some.

Here is some cool info on a test from Project Farm on oil tests that is a cool watch:
Oil Series Video Playlist

Final Oil bout/champ

Another good read and info > Intake valve deposits on GDI
 
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