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What are you guys torquing your aftermarket lug nuts to ? 100 ft lb per manual ?

I’ve read some aftermarket lugs have a lower max torque like the Rays Work 17 lug nuts ... what to do ?
For me, it would be hard to go anything less than stock. If a lug nut wasn't up to the task i would look elsewhere.
 

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What are you guys torquing your aftermarket lug nuts to ? 100 ft lb per manual ?

I’ve read some aftermarket lugs have a lower max torque like the Rays Work 17 lug nuts ... what to do ?
I use Rays Duralumin nuts which have a max torque of 86 lb ft and that is what I use. A bit of research and you'll find that 100 lb ft is unusually high for a wheel nut. For example, VW spec 120Nm = 89 lb ft. I am fine with 86 lb ft for the road, and don't want to risk stripping the nuts by exceeding 86. After 15,000km of hard road use they've been fine despite removal several times for rotation, brake replacement etc. I check the torque before a big run and they're always correct. FWIW the local distributor said Rays Duralumin are even OK for track use (see below).

The Rays nuts you mention appear to be steel, and probably have a higher max torque allowed. I had to translate the Japanese on the package to find the specs - take a photo and use Google translate.

Having said that, for track use I would use steel nuts (e.g. the OEM nuts if they are not trashed) and go up to 100 lb ft as a precaution.
 

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Thanks Alpha Dog.

I noticed the same thing the VW Golf R ones are 120nm but may because they are a little bigger m14 Vs m12 ... and they are a bolt style vs ****ty acorn nut style - not sure.

135 nm does sound like a heck of a lot of tq when compared to others though.
 

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Ford has 100 lb ft. recommended for most of the recent Focuses, not just the RS. We have an older Mazda and the recommendation is 85 lb ft., however on our newer Mazda 3 the recommended torque is 80-108 lb ft. So I guess 100 is not that big of an issue anymore and some manufacturers are way more liberal with the ranges they give for torque...
 

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I think I bought the work lugs and was surprised they said, "for aftermarket wheels only" on the packaging. I know, if there was a choice, I would not have chosen aftermarket.

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Gorilla or McGard? which has a better mating surface?
 

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So a handful of my OEMs have finally broken down into pieces and I am just left with the core. Technically, I can just keep using the core. The dealership says not covered, and something like a $140 for em. I don't wanna shell out a $140 for an inferior product that breaks in 4 years. Yeah, sure, someone should not have hammered on em (probably the dealership themselves), but it's still bad. Irrespective of price, what are the best lugs that have a 1:1 fit with our OEM Forged wheels choice?

Looks like maybe these guys Focus112 linked?
 

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I have these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P281RQ/

However some say that you need ones that have a larger surface, so you can get these (they are cheaper as well):
I wish the locks had the rotating seat like the regular lug nuts. I'm looking for closed end ones that have that. I currently have the open end Project Kics R40 Iconix with the plastic caps, but the plastic caps suck. The hub threads are all rusty because they are open.
 

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I usually go with open end lugs when I have extended studs.

But yeah, interested what closed end short lugs that has the best mating surface, as well as a seat rotate to prevent from scratching the wheels.
 

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So a handful of my OEMs have finally broken down into pieces and I am just left with the core. Technically, I can just keep using the core. The dealership says not covered, and something like a $140 for em. I don't wanna shell out a $140 for an inferior product that breaks in 4 years. Yeah, sure, someone should not have hammered on em (probably the dealership themselves), but it's still bad. Irrespective of price, what are the best lugs that have a 1:1 fit with our OEM Forged wheels choice?

Looks like maybe these guys Focus112 linked?
These have done great for me!

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These have done great for me!

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Nice! Looks like they have the same taper and all. Is there a reason to prefer open-ended over closed lugs?
 

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Nice! Looks like they have the same taper and all. Is there a reason to prefer open-ended over closed lugs?
If mine was a daily, with snow and rain, I'd go closed. Mine is a garage queen so I went open.

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If mine was a daily, with snow and rain, I'd go closed. Mine is a garage queen so I went open.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Ah, got it! Do you by chance know what the equivalent part number of those in closed style is? No problem if you don't off the top of your head, I can dig through their site
 

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Ah, got it! Do you by chance know what the equivalent part number of those in closed style is? No problem if you don't off the top of your head, I can dig through their site
I don't, but it's all there on the site.

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Guys be super careful with aftermarket lugs. People keep mentioning this in the thread but everyone ignores. Our stock wheels need a lug with a pretty large seat. Many aftermarket lugs have a seat half the size. Here is a comparison with the popular mutekis. I finally found some gorillas with the stock seat size. These are the aluminum version, not cheap but better to be safe.
Yep, last summer, I had aftermarket wheels, Muteki lugs torqued to 85 ft. lbs., and they came loose. Last winter, with a winter set of wheels and tires, I actually lost one of the Muteki lugs, so I threw the lot out and went back to factory. Never had an issue with aftermarket ones like those; I think the seat on those is simply too small for aftermarket or OEM wheels.
 

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Yep, last summer, I had aftermarket wheels, Muteki lugs torqued to 85 ft. lbs., and they came loose. Last winter, with a winter set of wheels and tires, I actually lost one of the Muteki lugs, so I threw the lot out and went back to factory. Never had an issue with aftermarket ones like those; I think the seat on those is simply too small for aftermarket or OEM wheels.
So what would be a good aftermarket replacement that has a good mating surface that is closed ended?
 
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