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Help! Is this line on enough. I can't get it any farther. I dont want to break anything. I even tried heat. Please let me know asap I'm doing this as we speak
Keep in mind, I'm no expert here, but should be ok. Maybe put some hose clamps on there if you're worried?
 
I just got my UPR catch can in from tune+. Are there any better directions than the UPR ones? Like where I route the lines around the engine? They dont even have the torque specs of the intake bolts on them. The quality seems amazing by just looking at it. Ill be installing it this weekend.
Feel free to visit my personal website that has a bunch of how-to's on my Focus RS build.

Here's the UPR catch can how-to: Hank's RS - Catch Can & Breather Plate

In the how-to I have pictures of how I routed each of the (2) lines to and from the UPR catch can.
 
Feel free to visit my personal website that has a bunch of how-to's on my Focus RS build.

Here's the UPR catch can how-to: Hank's RS - Catch Can & Breather Plate

In the how-to I have pictures of how I routed each of the (2) lines to and from the UPR catch can.
good pictures too bad I finished it all before seeing them. What's the point to changing out the breather plate?

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Feel free to visit my personal website that has a bunch of how-to's on my Focus RS build.

Here's the UPR catch can how-to: Hank's RS - Catch Can & Breather Plate

In the how-to I have pictures of how I routed each of the (2) lines to and from the UPR catch can.
What's the best way to check and empty the upr can Hank?

I need to go back and route the right line under the egr pipe like you did it.

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good pictures too bad I finished it all before seeing them. What's the point to changing out the breather plate?
Read this Mountune USA page about why the breather plate was changed out: Breather Plate, Ford EcoBoost 2.0L and 2.3L.

What's the best way to check and empty the upr can Hank? I need to go back and route the right line under the egr pipe like you did it.
At each oil change I will disconnect both hoses from the UPR catch can and remove it from the engine bay. I'll open it and pour the contents into a measuring cup (or something smaller) to determine how much oil is caught by the catch can. Don't pour that oil back into the engine. Periodically check your dipstick with a cold engine and top it off if you notice it doesn't reach the top of the hash marking. Don't pay attention to the holes in the dipstick for determining oil level.
 
Feel free to visit my personal website that has a bunch of how-to's on my Focus RS build.

Here's the UPR catch can how-to: Hank's RS - Catch Can & Breather Plate

In the how-to I have pictures of how I routed each of the (2) lines to and from the UPR catch can.

Nice web page/write up @Hank, going to be doing this over the weekend. One thing I noticed was that according to the Lethal Performance web site, the picture on the product shows the out port as the one that draws up from the middle. It is probably only a small difference if any at all. Did you confirm the way you installed it and do you notice any oil inside the fitting directly attached to the out port of the can?

Thanks.
 
^^ Never mind..... I actually thought about it and if you connected it up the other way you would be in danger of pulling liquid back through the middle. The higher port should have made sense but the picture at lethal showed it otherwise and mixed me up.
 
Nice web page/write up @Hank, going to be doing this over the weekend. One thing I noticed was that according to the Lethal Performance web site, the picture on the product shows the out port as the one that draws up from the middle. It is probably only a small difference if any at all. Did you confirm the way you installed it and do you notice any oil inside the fitting directly attached to the out port of the can?

Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback on my personal RS build website. Because the instructions weren't 100% clear I blew through each port on the UPR catch can. You want the inlet to the catch can to shoot down the center. The outlet of the can is the annular ring on the edge of the catch can lid. I haven't checked my catch can yet. Installed it at 1000 miles and I'm running ~2000 miles now. I'll check the catch can at my next oil change at 4000 miles.

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Thanks for the feedback on my personal RS build website. Because the instructions weren't 100% clear I blew through each port on the UPR catch can. You want the inlet to the catch can to shoot down the center. The outlet of the can is the annular ring on the edge of the catch can lid. I haven't checked my catch can yet. Installed it at 1000 miles and I'm running ~2000 miles now. I'll check the catch can at my next oil change at 4000 miles.

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I put a colored zip tie on the outlet hose and on the outlet fitting of the catch can so that when I remove to empty I have no confusion on which hose goes where when I reinstall.

I found it to be very easy to service and even after hours of track time there is very little oil in the can.

j
 
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That seems like a lot!? I just had the radium breather plate installed today. It looked really well made to me but after seeing the OEM one that one also seemed way better than comparison picks by competitors made it seem. It actually has a little compartment with a valve then it looks like another valve before anything leaves the plate. Also my tech said he thought the mountune piece was better because the gasket went right into it and stayed. The radium piece it didn't sit in quite as well. Just food for thought, still going with radium catch can when the time comes! He also said I had very little residue when he took the intake off. He had previously installed the mountune on another members who had about the same mileage and they had a little more but still not a lot.
 
That seems like a lot!? I just had the radium breather plate installed today. It looked really well made to me but after seeing the OEM one that one also seemed way better than comparison picks by competitors made it seem. It actually has a little compartment with a valve then it looks like another valve before anything leaves the plate. Also my tech said he thought the mountune piece was better because the gasket went right into it and stayed. The radium piece it didn't sit in quite as well. Just food for thought, still going with radium catch can when the time comes! He also said I had very little residue when he took the intake off. He had previously installed the mountune on another members who had about the same mileage and they had a little more but still not a lot.
I don't think it's a lot for 7K miles, but I would check it more frequently, maybe every 1500 miles.
 
I guess I'm not sure of the total volume of the can. But a lot of people say to check it at oil change which is roughly 5000 miles. Most people are not finding much in their cans
 
I wish we had a thread that was not cluttered, it would be really nice to just have a thread with peoples experience and not pages of speculation and theoretical discussion. Owner basically post
what catch can they have
how often it gets emptied out
how much crap is collected


I want to protect my motor and keep it performing well but can't really come to a definitive conclusion whether to buy a catch can or two(PCV/CC) or none.
 
I wish we had a thread that was not cluttered, it would be really nice to just have a thread with peoples experience and not pages of speculation and theoretical discussion. Owner basically post
what catch can they have
how often it gets emptied out
how much crap is collected


I want to protect my motor and keep it performing well but can't really come to a definitive conclusion whether to buy a catch can or two(PCV/CC) or none.
Ran catch cans on 2 STIs and on my RS. I have installed 2 cans bc both the crankcase and the heads give off oil vapor. Granted, the crankcase is the biggest contributor to vented high pressure oil/air vapor and has a reasonably designed pcv system, it none the less allows vapor into the throttle body.....as seen by oil residue in the throttle body intake. So I installed a can on the crankcase.

I also have one on the air intake runner/ valve side for the same reason. I found traces of oil in the air runner going into the turbo after 1k mi on the car. It was much much less than on the crankcase and more like a mist coating.

I did not go with any of branded units offered for the RS each for a different reason. Some were mounted too high, IMO, others were conspicuously mounted. I wanted a stealthy look, so I copied a few of the design elements and mounting locations and made my own bracket. The bracket is mounted very similar to the Mishimoto but designeed to hold 2 cans side by side. I purchased 2 billet AMW catch cans ($160 ea) and mounted them low enough so that the lines drain into the can and they are easily accessible during oil changes. Since I get less than 1/4" of fluid in the crank side and 1/8" or less btwn 5k mi oil changes it works great. If someone wanted to a fix a drain tube it could be accessed by simply lowering drivers side of the lower cowl or trimming a hole.
 
for people who have the Radium dual catch cans, how hard are they to drain without the remote petcock, do any parts need to be removed in order to drain either one?
 
will the mountune breather plate alone be enough to keep the oil going to the intake or do i still need the catch can? i am thinking of just getting the breather plate only and not buy the catch can if the breather plate is enough to keep the oil away from intake.
 
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