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Hey all, just to quickly mention here that after a year of owing the Carloop, I bit the bullet and flashed T16. Did a quick test and I'm happy with it. Hopefully I get to test it on the track soon!

Followed the step by step to the line and I had zero issues. Entire process from starting the VM until turning On the Engine for testing took just a few minutes (probably less than 15).
 

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Nutron Pro Moto's Facebook had an update regarding RDU Map Editor.

Open Source RDU Map Editor is now live.
 

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Nutron Pro Moto's Facebook had an update regarding RDU Map Editor.

Open Source RDU Map Editor is now live.
Nice I’ve been reading this thread but this would likely make it easier…better get one when it’s released! I waited too long for their driftstick and they no longer offer it despite the popular demand!
 

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what does RSapp 2.0 do? enable better drift stick control?
I'm not certain but I believe this is simply the standard, previously released, NPM Dift / Drive device software for the Carloop, allowing you to essentially turn a Carloop into that device without having have had to purchase it directly from NPM.

AFAIK, 2.0 is the latest (public) version of their software/app, although they had previously mentioned 2.0.1., that was apparently a typo.This seems to be, essentially, making their software available for free, and open source. There's likely to be future updates to support the additional features such as RDU control and dash features, along with their native apps.
Font Screenshot Darkness Multimedia Software
 

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@TomekRST , would it be advisable to flash back to the stock RDU firmware before doing this? I'm guessing that flashing the particle with the RSApp v2 firmware will remove the capability to flash @Kacper 's hardcoded firmwares?

Would it also be possible to explain what settings to change to achieve the same result as Kacper's firmware? Like I'm running the T18 firmware, but I'm not sure what all needs to be changed in RSApp to have the same end result. I'd like to use those settings as a starting point, because T18 is already really good.
 

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@TomekRST , would it be advisable to flash back to the stock RDU firmware before doing this? I'm guessing that flashing the particle with the RSApp v2 firmware will remove the capability to flash @Kacper 's hardcoded firmwares?

Would it also be possible to explain what settings to change to achieve the same result as Kacper's firmware? Like I'm running the T18 firmware, but I'm not sure what all needs to be changed in RSApp to have the same end result. I'd like to use those settings as a starting point, because T18 is already really good.
RSapp firmware is compatible Kacper’s tool with. There is no RDU map feature for now. It will be available soon, same time RDU Kacper’s tool will get new “Zombie” firmware option which lets you use external RDU maps via updated (3.0) RSapp. Stay tuned.
 

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Thanks @TomekRST ! My installed particle binary updated to 3.0 when I ran it, so I followed your instructions to get the 2.16 version. Since I'm not using this through vmware (my laptop runs linux), I had to manually put the particle in DFU mode. It says the firmware2.0P.bin firmware flashed successfully.

I followed your other video after that but my Carloop Basic doesn't flash blue when I hold the drive mode button for 10 seconds. I pressed the setup and reset buttons on the particle, let off the reset and let go of the setup while it was flashing blue (before it started flashing yellow), and the wifi showed up. When I went to 192.168.0.1, all I get is offered a hello.txt file. I tried with firefox and chrome, and had the same result. I'll try again in the morning, but I didn't know if I might be doing something wrong to get that file instead of the app's site.
 

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@TomekRST , thanks! I just tried it with starting the car... since I had been trying it just in accessory mode. Shortly after starting the car, the lights start flashing blue and the device's wifi is available. The only weirdness I've seen so far is the wifi and my cell data sometime fight. Once in a while my cell data would think that it should route 192.168.0.*, which caused me to loose connection with the device's site. I had to disable cell data, then enable it shortly after, and then it would work fine for a while. But that happened a couple times during my test drive and I eventually just left cell data disabled.

It is very awesome to have it select the drive modes automatically, and the 5th (custom) mode did indeed get set despite the warnings! That alone is a huge deal for me and simplifies getting the car ready after starting it :D

Are there any plans to support bluetooth on the Redbear board? I couldn't find anyone that had it in stock, but I think this would be more ideal over bluetooth than a device spun up wifi.

Also I wanted to mention that everything still worked after I plugged my AccessPort in. I have my main ODB2 port split, and these devices were plugged in there for this test.

My phone with no internet..... and I'll be checking my tire pressure tomorrow :-/
 

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I'll be checking my tire pressure tomorrow :-/
When you do, let us know if your rear tire positions are correctly identified. I've been seeing, on NADM vehicles, that the positions for the rear sensors seem to be flip-flopped. I think the PIDs used may be incorrectly labeled (by Ford) for NADM models. This issue has persisted on various module firmwares and model years, so I doubt it'll be corrected by Ford, and may need.to be addressed by us. I'd like to see more data points though, so knowing your experience would be helpful.

Also, which phone are you using? Most of the devices I've connected to the NPM device, including phones, have allowed me to choose to remain connected to the device without an Internet connection. With that connection has been stable. Some devices will still get their Internet data fed from another source, but others simply remain connected without Internet data. When I've tried to be connected to the device, on phones, via Wi-Fi without selecting such an option I have experienced similar issues as you've described. I have had the most difficulty with Pixel devices on early Android 11, because their option to remain connected to Wi-Fi while another Internet data source (such as mobile) was available, was broken.
 

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I'm using a Nokia 9, running Android 10. I did experience the wifi cutting because of no internet, but I picked the option for it to stay connected anyways and it shows that it's keeping the connection. It seems like a routing issue, and I'll spend some more time on it soon. But it seems like the cell modem will just change my routes so that 192.168.0.0 goes to the cell modem instead of wifi... when the modem should be the default route, with a route only for 192.168.0.0 going to the wifi device. I have a Planet Computers pocket computer that I'll test with too, but that does not have a cell modem.

What you're saying about the TPMS sensors makes a lot of sense! If you look at my screenshot, it might be correct if it's rotated counter-clockwise 90 degrees. My rears should be around 34psi and the fronts around 38psi. If it would be helpful, I could test each corner... like drop 10 psi or something and see where that shows up.

The temp and psi displays could be really handy during autocrossing! If the psi display gets accurate, then I wouldn't need to put a pressure gauge on each tire after the runs. So this is super cool and I can't wait to do some move eval of it. Some things I want to test is if the auto stop/start is disabled through the tune, and it's not disabled in RSApp, is it not enabled? I selected disable in RSApp just in case, but I'm not sure about that... and also the launch control setting in RSApp. So things like that I'm planning on testing tomorrow.
 

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So it appears the front-left and rear-right on mine are swapped and the other 2 are ok. I put 45psi in FL, 40psi FR, 35psi, RR, 30psi RL and here's what it looked like. Is this something that can/should be corrected with the TPMS pairing, or could this be consistent with how the RS reads them?

Edit: I guess I really don't know how TPMS works. If they were staticly paired, then it would get messed up when rotating tires.... or would that mess up the order?

 

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I’m thinking you should buy the little device to trigger the TPMS sensor and run the actual TPMS reset procedure on the car to make sure the sensors are assigned correctly.
 
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I’m thinking you should buy the little device to trigger the TPMS sensor and run the actual TPMS reset procedure on the car to make sure the sensors are assigned correctly.
Thanks! I finally got around to looking into the basics of TPMS and I do see that you have to tell the sensor where its located. I'll pick up a reset tool and give the relearn process a try.
 
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