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Please help!!! Was driving up to big bear and the sun was turned low. Car volume at 12. Got to the top and little guy started rattling like it blew up? Could this be from the pressure change from elevation or am I doomed and it’s blown?
 
Please help!!! Was driving up to big bear and the sun was turned low. Car volume at 12. Got to the top and little guy started rattling like it blew up? Could this be from the pressure change from elevation or am I doomed and it’s blown?
A thought: play some music and listen to it up close
 
Just wanted to leave a thank you for this post. I finally got around to putting the PS8 in and I realize it should've gone in 1 year ago. It fills out the sound enough to where the car sounds like it has a premium sound system.

Seems like the speaker output going to the factory sub is already low pass only. What crossover do you guys have it set to? I listen to music between 10-15 on the volume and I have the gain set to about 1/3 of the way up with bass boost at 0.
 
First of all thanks for the write up. I get headaches thinking about anything electrical, this thread has helped me, that is whenever I could focus and actually read and process the steps, lol.

Secondly, sorry to bump an old thread.

I ordered most of the things I think I will need to get this going. Will start tomorrow.

Quick question, there's no need to hack apart the stock sub right? That is unless you don't want to cut the stock harness, and want to tap/connect to the wires inside the sub to keep the plug right?

I'm thinking of cutting the harness and keeping some length on the cut plug to re-connect it with posi-locks or crimps back to the harness whenever I decide to put the stock sub back in.
 
First of all thanks for the write up. I get headaches thinking about anything electrical, this thread has helped me, that is whenever I could focus and actually read and process the steps, lol.

Secondly, sorry to bump an old thread.

I ordered most of the things I think I will need to get this going. Will start tomorrow.

Quick question, there's no need to hack apart the stock sub right? That is unless you don't want to cut the stock harness, and want to tap/connect to the wires inside the sub to keep the plug right?

I'm thinking of cutting the harness and keeping some length on the cut plug to re-connect it with posi-locks or crimps back to the harness whenever I decide to put the stock sub back in.
I just did this today and you do not need to hack the stock sub. I clipped the wires before the plug and spliced into the high level input on the sub.
 
I just did this today and you do not need to hack the stock sub. I clipped the wires before the plug and spliced into the high level input on the sub.
Thanks for the response, after going back an forth about cutting the stock harness. I decided to break open the stock sub and order a used stock sub for when I need to go back to stock.

The harness is now a pretty simple and plug and play. Just waiting on my sub to get here to plug everything up.

Power is what's bugging me now, as the sub I got has a remote turn on powerline along the main power line.

 
Followed this guide to a T, used a different amp and sub. Same idea though. Got it all hooked up but no sound through the high level. Messed around with it for a few days, amp gets power - amp turns off when high level is unplugged but still no sound. Decided to just buy a pac audio amp pro ap4-fd21, will install that soon and hopefully it works
 
I just finished installing mine using this guide. Thanks again!

I ended up using the Pioneer TS-WX70DA, sounds good for under 180 bucks.

Ended up plugging in 2 tap fuses, one for remote wakeup (blue wire) and power (yellow wire) both with 10 amp fuses. Sub powers down after turning the car off and opening the door.

I surprised myself that nothing blew up... yet. It was easier than I thought it would be.






Followed this guide to a T, used a different amp and sub. Same idea though. Got it all hooked up but no sound through the high level. Messed around with it for a few days, amp gets power - amp turns off when high level is unplugged but still no sound. Decided to just buy a pac audio amp pro ap4-fd21, will install that soon and hopefully it works
What amp are you using? Not all amps take in high level audio. Maybe a high to low level adapter might do the trick, and is a pretty cheap part to buy just to troubleshoot.
 
I just finished installing mine using this guide. Thanks again!

I ended up using the Pioneer TS-WX70DA, sounds good for under 180 bucks.

Ended up plugging in 2 tap fuses, one for remote wakeup (blue wire) and power (yellow wire) both with 10 amp fuses. Sub powers down after turning the car off and opening the door.

I surprised myself that nothing blew up... yet. It was easier than I thought it would be.

View attachment 331074

View attachment 331076




What amp are you using? Not all amps take in high level audio. Maybe a high to low level adapter might do the trick, and is a pretty cheap part to buy just to troubleshoot.
Really nice setup. Would you be willing to post a list of all the parts you purchased? I'm interested in doing this, but I have ZERO electronic/stereo experience.

TIA!
 
Really nice setup. Would you be willing to post a list of all the parts you purchased? I'm interested in doing this, but I have ZERO electronic/stereo experience.

TIA!
Powered sub of your choice. The PS-8 went up in price since this thread was started so I went with this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY9VZ7N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_-pshDbPP14P1D

This speaker line to female RCA adapter for converting the speaker wires inside the sub to rca. Note: The sub came with a similar adapter. (Long cable, speaker wire to male RCA)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G352P2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MrshDb5XKG1PZ

An RCA extension to connect the adapter to the RCA input on the sub. Not needed if I had known the sub came with an adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028MQWVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_lvshDbP5GGZ3F

2 fuse taps to tap into the rear fuse panel. Note that the power cables from my kit didn't fit into the connectors on these. I just snipped the wires and made my own connection to them. Also depending on the sub you get you might only need one tap.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIWAP0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_0wshDbMCYN077

I also used Posi-locks to join any cables together, but you can soder or use whatever method to join wires you feel comfortable with.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTADIOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_fAshDb131FGJW

I also got some cloth electrical tape to wrap the wiring harness that came with the sub.

All that plus tons of good reading in this thread was it.

Oh, a good pair of wire strippers if you don't already have one.
 
What amp are you using? Not all amps take in high level audio. Maybe a high to low level adapter might do the trick, and is a pretty cheap part to buy just to troubleshoot.
An older Hertz hcp 1dv - came out of my fiesta st via high level. Looks like it was an internal failure. Plugged in my other HCP1D and everything worked fine. Installed the Pac AP4-FD21 last night - it's glorious. Too bad you still need the sony amp in the back but I'm happy with it. $300cdn well spent
 
I just finished installing mine using this guide. Thanks again!

I ended up using the Pioneer TS-WX70DA, sounds good for under 180 bucks.

Ended up plugging in 2 tap fuses, one for remote wakeup (blue wire) and power (yellow wire) both with 10 amp fuses. Sub powers down after turning the car off and opening the door.

I surprised myself that nothing blew up... yet. It was easier than I thought it would be.

View attachment 331074

View attachment 331076




What amp are you using? Not all amps take in high level audio. Maybe a high to low level adapter might do the trick, and is a pretty cheap part to buy just to troubleshoot.
Can you confirm which two fuse slots you used? And which was constant power and which was ignition powered? Coming around to finally installing my Kenwood KSC-SW11. Thanks in advance!
 
Can you confirm which two fuse slots you used? And which was constant power and which was ignition powered? Coming around to finally installing my Kenwood KSC-SW11. Thanks in advance!

I'll be honest with you, I just picked 2 random slots and it worked. Using F43 and F38/39. The Kenwood is a good choice, I ended up switching to it since it fits in the stock location and doesn't take any boot space up.
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I'll be honest with you, I just picked 2 random slots and it worked. Using F43 and F38/39. The Kenwood is a good choice, I ended up switching to it since it fits in the stock location and doesn't take any boot space up.
Cool. Gotcha. Good to know those two work. I'm just waiting for the molex female connector to arrive so I can wire the audio cables into that. So I can just plug the male plug that normally goes into the stock subwoofer into that female plug I'm going to splice the Kenwood audio wires into. I'm trying to keep everything as clean and simple as possible. Was thinking of adding my own fuses into the back of the fuse box like I saw on another thread here, but taking it off seems to be a pain since the screw is tucked behind the trunk lining at the bottom. I'll probably play around with my multimeter and find out which fuses are constant and which are ignition powered. Looking forward to finally ditching this crappy stock subwoofer/glorified speaker... THANKS for the reply!
 
Rather belatedly; I'm duplicating this sub upgrade (from God7illa's OP). Picked out and prepped my ground spot and wire, prepped the power wire/fuse tap, and prepped the RCA connectors/spkr wire assembly.

After I had the stock sub enclosure out I'm looking at it; thinking how the :censored: am I gonna disassemble this thing (want the molex and stock speaker wires)? It's sealed. Just took a look at the OP again, and I'll be damned if God7illa "didn't" take a hammer to that rascal; I'll eat my nasty 'ol baseball cap! :LOL:

That technique is definitely in my rather limited technical skill set! Got my 2lb ball peen handy for tomorrow...........................and if that don't work; I got a 5lb maul! It's COMMIN' apart!

UPDATE: 10/18/21---Ball peen hammer worked great! Wiley: 1 Stock Sub: 0

And.............................the PS 8 works great too! Big improvement on the stocker; all I have left to do is decide where and how to mount the sub remote. I'm thinking some double sided tape will allow me to mount it in the change cubby directly in front of the shift lever.

I originally thought about using the four screw mounting holes in the sub's base plate to screw it to the driver's side inner rear fender well. NAH! Used two 1" x 4" pieces of adhesive backed male Velcro on the base plate, and laid it flat on the floor butted against the back of the driver's side rear seat and rear inner fender. Sticks to the hatch carpet like glue, but still pulls straight up easily if I need the space, or to get into the styro foam tray under the carpet.

Thanks to god7illa, and several other for some great ideas and info! (y)
 
I just did this. Here is my 2 cents. I don't understand why everyone is breaking the stock sub just for the connector. Just cut the wires a few inches behind the connector and then tap into the wires that way. Now you can reverse the process in minutes. I used a Kenwood model as the PS8 nearly doubled in price since this was written. I used a fuse tap in the trunk for power, and used a 2nd fuse tap, with a 2amp fuse, for the remote wire . All in for around $230. I was a huge audio guy when I was a kid and was ready for disappointment but it really does sound good and gives it enough bass to be livable. Wish I did this 5 years ago. Took me about 2 hours.
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I just did this. Here is my 2 cents. I don't understand why everyone is breaking the stock sub just for the connector. Just cut the wires a few inches behind the connector and then tap into the wires that way. Now you can reverse the process in minutes. I used a Kenwood model as the PS8 nearly doubled in price since this was written. I used a fuse tap in the trunk for power, and used a 2nd fuse tap, with a 2amp fuse, for the remote wire . All in for around $230. I was a huge audio guy when I was a kid and was ready for disappointment but it really does sound good and gives it enough bass to be livable. Wish I did this 5 years ago. Took me about 2 hours.
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Can you send me set up on how you did it.. I put a jbl basspro and it blew.. tapped into back like someone else stated..
 
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