Honestly just sounds like your injectors. DI injectors are pretty loud and make a lot of ticking noise. Go listen to a new Honda Fit if you see one sitting there and its really loud as well.

 

If that's the case I feel much better. I thought I murdered it by taking it on a climbing trip. I guess I just have to figure out how to fix that bent metal fin behind the right front wheel now.

 

The ticking noise is indeed likely just DI doing it's thing.

The rough idle has usually been attributed to bad spark plugs or bad gapping. I have the same really rough idle w/ AC on, without AC no rough idle at all though.

 

I had poping from my plugs being gapped to much. Might be the start of a bearing going out.


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Do you have a RMM installed?

 

I do have the CPE Stage 2 in, but up until Monday it was fine. I switched out the spark plugs. The factory gaps were fine, but I put in the ITV22s anyway. Might be placebo but 3rd day on it feels much better.

 

No placebo.

 

Mines been definitely louder as of late. Thought I had bent rod honestly. I listened to others motors and they sound fairly similar. I will be changing my plugs tomorrow, but I doubt it will change anything.

Mine sounds just like yours.

 

I got the old spark plugs out and when I checked the gaps they were all .026''. I guess the step colder really helps.

However, the really rough air condition idle is still there. I noticed it because last night I had the headlights on against a wall, and during idle the right front light was vibrating. So I definitely think something is wrong with my AC compressor.

I wonder if I should switch out to the factory RMM before taking it in for diagnostics.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys!

I went under my car yesterday and found the CPE stage 2 to angle off to one side a little bit at the connecting bolt. I'm assuming the engine is a bit misaligned, considering the base of the RMM is not seated exactly perpendicular. Is there a way to move the engine back into alignment? I'm assuming it's not a big deal since I haven't had too many problems.

Once again thanks for all the help guys!

 

Thanks for all the replies guys!

I went under my car yesterday and found the CPE stage 2 to angle off to one side a little bit at the connecting bolt. I'm assuming the engine is a bit misaligned, considering the base of the RMM is not seated exactly perpendicular. Is there a way to move the engine back into alignment? I'm assuming it's not a big deal since I haven't had too many problems.

View attachment 182633

Once again thanks for all the help guys!

Based on how the rear part of the mount is bolted in, I would assume that's normal. It's only got a single bolt to allow some side to side movement. I'd bet if you started it up and checked again, it would be a different angle.

 

mine shakes and only got 2k. I have a dashboard mount for my cell and you will see if shaking especially when AC is on. Dealer said that it's normal for RS to be like that.

 

if we all had a nickle for everytime someone said 'the engine clicks so loud!' we'd all be rich hahaha

you're good to go - the vibration is absolutely the RMM and that engine sounds perfectly healthy from your video

 

how about without RRM. mild shake when the car is idling

 

Even with the RMM, I really don't feel any increased NVH from stock except when the AC is on. But I don't ever remember the vibrations

I took the car on an ill advised climbing trip where it drove a bunch of miles over washboard dirt roads, so I was a little apprehensive that something got shaken loose. But this thread has given me somewhat of a peace of mind.

Either way I'm getting my oil changed Monday, and I have a TPU leak, so I'll have them check it out anyway while they under there.

 

I believe that for those tuned, you can ask your tuner to increase your idle RPM by 100-150 and it should take care of most of the vibration. I am just going off experience with my last few cars, where blipping the throttle a bit would alleviate some of the vibrations.

 

actually this is right. i applied a few rpm higher than stock idle and vibration was gone. lol

 

In the interest of not starting another "is something wrong with my motor" thread, I'm just going to revive this one.

I didnt post about it because I didnt want to jump the gun, but last thursday (so 8 days ago) I was getting into my car after it sat for about 8 hours. I was parked next to cars on either side of me. I started her up and thought I heard a weird ticking/knocking sound echoing off the car next to me, not like injectors or valves. I popped the hood and my heart sank, as there was definitely an audible knocking of sorts. It was very mild, but still had me concerned. It seemed to subside after a minute or so though, but to be safe I had the car towed to my dealer.

Fast forward to Friday morning, my service advisor calls me and explains that the tech doesnt hear anything out of the ordinary (somehow knew that was gonna happen), but I was welcome to come down and take a look/listen with the tech. I did exactly that, turned out to be a cool guy and a subie driver. We took a listen and it sounded fine. So I brought the car home and just continued to monitor it.

Well tonight, as I was starting the car (motor was cold, not a warm start) I took a brief listen and definitely heard something. So I popped the hood and confirmed my suspicions: something was absolutely making some sort of racket. It wasn't crazy loud like I've heard some bad knock, but loud enough to be concerning. What has me BAFFLED is that after 10-15 seconds, it goes away, and as I've examined it more, it goes away within 2-3 seconds on a warm start. I've checked the oil level and its perfect. Coolant is low relative to what it was when I first got the car 4 months ago, but still sits right about at the min line when cold, and between the min and max lines when running and hot. I thought maybe the knock was the result of something not being lubricated temporarily, but why the hell would that happen?

Ill try to get a better video upon cold start tomorrow. As of tonight, it wasn't doing it much at all when I tried to video it (kind of like measuring the relative position of photons as they transition between wave/particle behavior).

Thoughts? anyone have background knowledge or have experienced this phenomenon?

 

Piston slap can sound like knock a bit. But its not and generally does go away pretty quick.

GM LS motors have been known to get piston slap.

My Beat to Snot LT1 used to do it when cold.

 

Hm. What would cause that type of thing in a young RS motor? Seems strange that it would subside suddenly? Just a poorly lubed valve seat or lifter?

 

Grandmother owned a 02 Subaru Outback with the 2.5 and it slapped like CRAZY. Apparently It was normal as the rings were undersized or some dumb thing from 2002 to 2004. So they all sound like ****.

 

So my car sounds different every startup. The RPMs drop from 900 average to 400-500-600 randomly in traffic or stop signs. Sometimes the car feels like I have upgraded motor mounts it idles so rough.

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Depending on which CPE RMM you have they are known to be more aggressive than oem or other aftmkt RMMs.

 

I don't have any motor mounts installed. I was referencing the type of NVH i felt

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Here is one from 10 minutes ago

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Might just be where you had the camera at on startup, but my hpfp makes quite a bit of noise and rattles on occasion. Sounded like what I heard on startup, but that might not be what is going on. I put my hand on the hpfp to verify the area of noise and rattles. Hope that might help a bit?

Bob

 

HPFP?

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High Pressure Fuel Pump. Near the brake fliid reservoir. You can follow the fuel lines back from injectors to it.

 

Sorry for the necro, it just had this happened to me this afternoon driving from work.

I heard something ticking. It's behind the intake by brake fluid reservoir. It was not not ticky before. But I guess this is normal?

 

Its the HP fuel pump.

Ciao

 

Extended warranty helps alleviate much of the nervousness. The HPFP gets noticeably noisy inside the cabin for me cruising at 60mph with the radio off. Never had an overrev event that I can't vouch for, but I did get it "new" with 70 miles on it.

 

I do have 100k 8/yrs on mine, but still.

But that's what it takes, pay to play to mod.

Thanks guys.