Better off pulling the turbo off and putting the stocker back on. The stock heads just won’t flow enough to really appreciate the nx2 and you need to run more boost. Once you decide to go built then put the precision back on.

 

Not familiar to the NX2 turbo and how it compares to the stock Garrett unit, but I'm assuming it is a larger unit and inherently takes longer to spool compared to the smaller OEM unit. Perhaps your tuner can do something to try to reduce that lag? Maybe an aftermarket wastegate actuator?

 

E85?

 

Who is tuning?

 

Well I have that turbo and it does light slower than stock as that’s what happens when you go bigger. As for your power you should not be lower or slower. Are you sure it’s slower or you just can’t get it to go faster. Mine took some learning to make sure power was ready when stock was just stab the throttle. Second it may be slower cause your only at 22psi.
I was running 24 psi for a while on stock block and for break in on my new long block. Have him raise boost to 24 and see. I think 24psi -26 would be safe with stock block. Keep in mind that my opinion but I would feel fine at that level.

 

Don’t look at psi, look at your mass air lb/min of flow rate. Psi just shows back pressure, your lb/min shows how much air youre actually moving through the system.

for example, stock turbo FBO at my redline I flow 48-49lb/min with 94+wmi.

 

Thanks guys. Gonna raise boost. Going e30 as well. Gonna see where this goes.

 

Who's the custom mapping done by ? As he is talking out of his ass.
If its not running a twin port actuator and been custom mapped in it wont perform at all.
It really should drive like stock and the torque should pull trees out of the ground from a 400whp build to a 700whp build.
Sounds like your tuner isn't up to the job as the NX2 turbo is awesome

 

Who's the custom mapping done by ? As he is talking out of his ass.
If its not running a twin port actuator and been custom mapped in it wont perform at all.
It really should drive like stock and the torque should pull trees out of the ground from a 400whp build to a 700whp build.
Sounds like your tuner isn't up to the job as the NX2 turbo is awesome

Yep, either hit up PDtuning or @tunedbynishan. That's my 2 cents.

 

Something is wrong. Go thru the whole turbo system for leaks and fitment. Occasionally the NX2 has been replaced by vendor/manufacturer for faults. You have all good parts. Cheapest is to go thru it all, then get a tune from someone else to start. Ryan PD, Nishan, Adam T+, Brian JST or Randy TWerks. Setup should rock.....

 

"some NX2 turbos are slow to respond and some arent" This isn't a statement I necessarily agree with if the unit is working correctly. Unless you are talking about big changes in elevation you should see similar spool time to every other NX2 on the planet.

Does your nx2 have an aftermarket wastegate? if so you could have incorrect preload on it. This would effect both your spool time and overall boost production.

 

Andrew (Sneak) you are not alone. I have a very similar setup, stock block and heads with all the bits bolted on. I was/ am pretty let down with how it drives. I have to keep it wound up to be anywhere near boost, once on boost the car moves. But it feels terribly lazy from a stand still and I have a massive bog/ hole at light throttle around 2800-3200rpm that makes the car terrible to live with driving in town like a reasonable person. It's not nearly as fun to drive as it was. Per Ryan @DPtuning's suggestion I checked my actuator, and I'm probably over loaded on the wastegate slightly. I used one of the tuners on gbassrace's list, before the NX2 and with it.
It's been such a let down I'm over this car, I don't drive it anymore and it's time for it to go.

 

Not to be rude, but when doing a ‘big turbo’ swap, what else did you expect.

 

This is the exact reason I did everything but the turbo on my car as I couldn't find one that hit its peak torque low enough. I'm waiting for more info on the mountune v2 turbo as it may be what I'm looking for.

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk

 

Really interesting read and humbling. My forged setup is waiting for the right turbo, when one plug-n-play version is finally released. I’ve played around with aftermarket turbos in various guises and reckon that the OEM RS turbo is almost perfect for the street. My gauge says there’s widespread acceptance around that these days because the OEM setup just responds so well to good tuning with 400+bhp and quick spool. Punch it and it responds. The number chasers will never agree and of course each to their own where goals are concerned, but the amount RS people I’ve had a chat with recently with big turbos shrug their shoulders and complain of running out of road. Generally, they just want the fun back and to be able to punch it. Brap! Braap! Braaap! Even at the All Ford Day the Cosworth guys were whinging about lag. Maybe uprated cams may be the answer, but the NX2 isn’t a quick spool turbo IMHO and requires a fair amount of hardware and software tuning to get it to play reasonably quickly.

 

I've wondered about cam options and or fuel changes that much help, but I haven't put in the research to find any answers. If I can't find someone to buy the car I will have to find a stock turbo to get the fun factor back, and then hopefully it will sell.

 

Ive got NX2 with tuneplus actuator and tuneplus map
Boost is in by about 2800 rpm, adam dialled most of the lag out. Mine holds boost right through the redline

 

Ive got NX2 with tuneplus actuator and tuneplus map
Boost is in by about 2800 rpm, adam dialled most of the lag out. Mine holds boost right through the redline

Could you post your graph

 

Have to dig out my datalogs

 

Here's a NX2 on a Ecoboost Mustang that tuned that also has the 2.3 on the OEM ecu w/ Cobb. The dyno doesn't start at 2k like your's but you can see the spool up is just as quick and it holds tq just like yours without a problem.

 

Everything you say I agree with It’s a good graph but the torque at say 300 or 400nm is a full 1k+ higher up the rpm range (if I’m reading it right) peak torque is good but low down torque makes the car much more drivable and an easier daily driver.

Your map spools up really well and strong but not as fast as in from lower rpm with Syvecs every map I’ve come across is around 1000-2000rpm higher for the same torque.

This is another map on the Syvecs, 8 in total, this map was unfinished as the factory clutch said I don’t want to play this game anymore and pack in for the day lol

i also should mention the first graph was pushing 1.6 or 1.7bar and this map 2bar (29psi)

 

If I started dyno pulls at 2000 like yours instead of 2700 the tq would be further to the left like yours.

 

All the none Syvecs maps I’ve seen struggle to pull more 170-180nm at 2000rpm and they also run much more boost around 32 - 37psi compared to Syvecs 23 - 29psi that’s a big difference

 

There is nothing special about Syvecs you adjust boost, ignition timing, vct, and fueling to make power just like they are on the factory ecu. The same thing goes for the MoTeC that I have for my RS. My RS makes over 700whp right now on the OEM ecu with Cobb. The reasons I'm switching off of the OEM ecu have nothing to do with power limitations and more to do with fail safes and things like strain gauge shifters. Also do you do alot of pulls on the street at 2k rpm? Generally curious because when I am doing anything competitive or even just for run I don't normally floor it that low. Boost isn't the be all end all when it comes to making power. if you dyno a car at 28psi and 15* of ignition timing your dynoplot will likely be very similar to someone who runs 32psi and 11* of ignition timing assuming the way it's ramped in is the same. Much more goes into how much power a car makes besides the amount of peak boost they run. Especially when you are talking about an NX2 that has diminishing returns when you are in the 30psi area.

Also your 29psi dyno is from a mainline hub dyno. Those will read higher than a roller dyno (dynojet, mustang, dynocom) as you don't have the loss from the wheel/tire.

 

From what I understand the syvecs ecu has greater range and support for addins and responds faster than stock ecu is that correct.

the power band on my car is very linear and most of the power is 4k upwards. The reason it’s not making loads low down is due to fuelling which I haven’t sorted, just yet.Hence my wmi woes ☹
My aem wmi cuts out at high boost and aem have informed me that my switch live needs to go straight to the battery 👎

 

Oh the sampling rate on the standlones is much faster than the 14-18hz logging that you get on the accessport. Then you get access to all of the goodies. The launch control, rolling anti lag, traction control, and other race niceties. Not to mention all of the custom things you can do. The main reason I bought my MoTeC is to use a strain gauge on my CAE shifter so I can flat shift the dog box I'm having made. Not to mention being able to control everything on one control box. I have an aux fuel controller and a wot box on my car right now. I'll be able to remove both of those when my MoTeC goes in.

 

Oh the sampling rate on the standlones is much faster than the 14-18hz logging that you get on the accessport. Then you get access to all of the goodies. The launch control, rolling anti lag, traction control, and other race niceties. Not to mention all of the custom things you can do. The main reason I bought my MoTeC is to use a strain gauge on my CAE shifter so I can flat shift the dog box I'm having made.

What fuelling solution are you using

 

on e85 or something pre mixed presumably?

 

Straight e85

 

Yeah see we don’t have that in uk, fuel quality is our issue so wmi only real solution without spending as much as the car is worth
Problem is there are no real wmi experts in the uk (although many claim to be 🤣🤣) not as big here as it is across the pond ☹

 

Mine is 563whp is on pump gas and flex fuel methanol.

Fuel system Standard factory pumps. AUX fuel setup - Inlet manifold is the mountune with their fuel rail and stubby 1000cc injectors and a throttle body spacer.

Oh and I also get very good gas mileage around 28-30 mpg as I’m able to limit boost and shut down the additional 4x injectors and just run the factory.

With 563whp and very good low down torque the car drivability is better than stock even running 285 cam

Then theirs the price of Syvecs which is very competitive compared to others.

I use a Toucan touch screen which lets me see all what the car is doing “live” which also has a gear selected option which is very useful.

This setup is very neat and discrete

 

I like your setup alot. I still have the stock intake manifold on my car right now. I'm still undecided on what I want to do with it.