[White-RS2]

Did they / He pre stretch the ARP's before final lock down?

 

[mexrs]

Did they / He pre stretch the ARP's before final lock down?

Where did you read that you are suppose to pre stretch them. Can't even find that info on ARP website.

The Official ARP Web Site | FAQ

arp-bolts.com

Seen Internet posts from 8 to 10 years ago, that are no longer relevant.

 

[lucky phil]

Did they / He pre stretch the ARP's before final lock down?

You don't pre stretch ARP head studs before final install. ARP ask you to torque the head down and then back them off and re torque again to run in the threads on the stud and nut. This gives more even and predictable clamping loads. I spoke to ARP about this and their reasoning as I'm not happy releasing an MLS gasket after its torqued and they advised its actually better to torque and retorque around 6 to 8 times for their head studs. But remember this is what's best for their studs not necessarily for the gasket. My solution is a simple clamp block and do it on the bench vice. Torque them up and down 5 or six times on the bench then once only on the engine.

Ciao

 

[lucky phil]

Where did you read that you are suppose to pre stretch them. Can't even find that info on ARP website.

The Official ARP Web Site | FAQ

arp-bolts.com

Seen Internet posts from 8 to 10 years ago, that are no longer relevant.

No thats a different issue/procedure. Retorquing the head is for old style composite gaskets not the MLS the RS uses. The re torque ARP advise to do in their instillation instructions is to run in the threads on their studs for better clamping force consistency.
Ciao

 

[White-RS2]

 

[lucky phil]

View attachment 349501
View attachment 349502

Interesting but not relevant here I don't believe. Note the back off and re torque requirement. I have spoken to ARP technical about this not just consulted their website.

Patterned washer kit.

Ciao

 

[White-RS2]

When you ring these companies help desks it’s very hit and miss who you get when they answer the phone and their knowledge per engine spec and build requirements.

 

[Big Jim]

When you ring these companies help desks it’s very hit and miss who you get when they answer the phone and their knowledge per engine spec and build requirements.

this is so true. ask to speak to a specific specialist. or the person who managed the build.

 

[Pezzar]

my only oil issues are smoking on wot and oil level in catch can. Lots of st and mustang forum guys have the successful fix as gut the stock pcv valve and fit a UPR 100 psi check valve on the clean side of the catch can piping. I've also ordered the petcock drain for my radium pcv can

 

[lucky phil]

When you ring these companies help desks it’s very hit and miss who you get when they answer the phone and their knowledge per engine spec and build requirements.

Yes it's a modern day issue. The really smart people are kept well insulated from the general public and what you get are the "customer service" kids to deal with. That's where a lot of practical and technical engineering experience comes in. You know within 20 seconds whether or not you're conversing with an an engineering expert or a "customer service" muppet.

Ciao

 

[White-RS2]

👍👍

 

[mexrs]

Did they / He pre stretch the ARP's before final lock down?

They went through the torque sequence 3 times. Tighten in the 3 steps then loosen all the studs, then tighten in the 3 steps, and loosen again. On the 3rd time going through the torque sequence, se to 80ft.lbs.

 

[mexrs]

I will be using a FORD OEM head gasket that the folks over at speedperf6rmanc3.com use on some of their builds with no issues. I ordered a few things from them, they were fast in getting my order put together and shipped.

I am just waiting on TascaParts to ship my order. Mainly bolts and such that the manual states that they should not be reused and some other stuff that is not needed but easier to just put new ones. Also ordered the hpfp fuel tube, oring, hpfp bolts etc.

The plan is to pull the cylinder head on Friday.

I had also contacted JE pistons, and Manley about blowby. They do not think it is the rings leaking. They did say i should probably modify the OEM PCV system and was told that when their is increase in boost there is always a slight chance of blow-by due to ring flutter.

Will see what we find when we pull the cylinder head.

 

[Big Jim]

God speed brother!

 

[Pezzar]

Also ordered the hpfp fuel tube, oring, hpfp bolts etc.

this is definitely the one Ford recommend is replaced each time.

They did say i should probably modify the OEM PCV system and was told that when their is increase in boost there is always a slight chance of blow-by due to ring flutter.

and this is what i'm doing but getting flamed on another thread

Will see what we find when we pull the cylinder head.

be very interested to see results

 

[Max]

my only oil issues are smoking on wot and oil level in catch can. Lots of st and mustang forum guys have the successful fix as gut the stock pcv valve and fit a UPR 100 psi check valve on the clean side of the catch can piping. I've also ordered the petcock drain for my radium pcv can

Hope you don’t mind me asking, why did you choose to go with a UPR check valve over Radium Engineering’s uprated PCV valve?

I thought you might have gone with the following radium kit (Baffle + uprated PCV valve, part # 20-0327-01) since you already have Radium’s catch cans?

PCV Baffle, Ford EcoBoost, Duratec, Mazda MZR

PCV Baffle Plate for Ford EcoBoost

www.radiumauto.com

Radium says that the PCV valve prevents the “vacuum leaks” that would occur using check valves at low loads:

10AN ORB PCV Valves

Billet 10AN ORB PCV Valves

www.radiumauto.com

 

[Pezzar]

Have the mountune plate not the radium, the radium valve is located at the plate which still doesn’t stop the can being pressurised.

gutted my stock pcv and fitted Upr check valve.
Upr catch can uses upgraded check valve as std on clean side of catch can piping

 

[lucky phil]

Hope you don’t mind me asking, why did you choose to go with a UPR check valve over Radium Engineering’s uprated PCV valve?

I thought you might have gone with the following radium kit (Baffle + uprated PCV valve, part # 20-0327-01) since you already have Radium’s catch cans?

PCV Baffle, Ford EcoBoost, Duratec, Mazda MZR

PCV Baffle Plate for Ford EcoBoost

www.radiumauto.com

Radium says that the PCV valve prevents the “vacuum leaks” that would occur using check valves at low loads:

10AN ORB PCV Valves

Billet 10AN ORB PCV Valves

www.radiumauto.com

A PCV valve is a little more involved than a simple open/closed check valve however lets just go with all the wisdom from the Mustang forum. They apparently have superior knowledge to the Ford engineers and Radium.
Ciao

 

[Pezzar]

And the upr upgraded check valve is more than just a simple check valve, I’d say upr catch can tech is just as good if not, better than radium

 

[Max]

gutted my stock pcv and fitted Upr check valve.

Ok. How is the car during idle now? Any difference? (Idles at a higher or lower rpm, a little rougher for example)

Did Tune plus give you a reason why you should pick a UPR check valve over the radium PCV &baffle for your situation?