The drop is sub is by far the easiest upgrade. The KSC-SW11 fits into the stock sub area without any cutting.

Both the stock amp and stock sub are GARBAGE. A good amp won't do anything with the stock sub, and another sub running off the Sony amp will be marginal at best.

 

This is something worth looking into, I mean I moved from STI to RS so Sony sound system sounds way better to me then the **** show Subaru decided to go with...

 

Sub’d. Saw a few posts but interested in a direct swap


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Sub’d. Saw a few posts but interested in a direct swap

As noted above, the Kenwood KSC-SW11 is about as direct swap as it gets.

 

I went with the Rockford Fosgate PS-8. It does require some foam cutting but since it has a built in sub it's lightyears ahead of the stock system and is relatively a inexpensive upgrade. There is a write-up here. http://www.focusrs.org/forum/30-foc...cus-rs-electronics/75946-cheapie-sub-upgrade-using-rockford-fosgate-ps-8-a.html

 

For someone looking to upgrade both the sub and amp, what do you guys recommend? I've read the easy upgrade threads and am still undecided. How much of a difference are we talking if we replace just the stock sub and keep the stock amp? What about replacing both?

 

Kicker HS8 Hideaway for me. Good for now . . .

Powered low profile subs give you a marginal low end rumble and some fill to crossover frequency. EZ install. Must cut some plastic (it's my car)

Ported sub will deliver the 'kick' you expect from a sub, but will require more space. Tougher install. I'll do this at some point.

 

Does anyone have any actual experience with the KSC-SW11 in our cars yet? It's a pretty cheap upgrade and I could always return it if I don't like it.

Never mind - http://www.focusrs.org/forum/30-focus-rs-electronics/81210-drop-sub-upgrade-kenwood-ksc-sw11.html

 

To be fair, that thread doesn't report back on how much better that subwoofer is than stock ..

 

I mean, anything would be a better sub than stock.

 

Please stop calling the OEM components "sub" and "amp". That 8" speaker does not output anything close to the frequency and volume of an actual subwoofer. And that silver box is a Sony digital signal processor. Show me the bench test of that thing amplifying a signal...please.

 

And it's only a 6 inch speaker, this is how to find out:
http://www.focusrs.org/forum/30-focus-rs-electronics/31954-sub-dissection-graphic-image-warning.html

 

Fixed:

"amp" -> anemic music processor

"sub" -> sh-tty unusable bass

 

So was there a consensus made here. I'm also looking to upgrade. Fosgate, kicker, or kenwood?

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In for an upgrade

 

Pioneer TS-WX70DA draws less than 10 amps so you can hook it to the fuse block in rear hatch. Kind of big so I just cut foam, I installed Dynamat mounted in the very back on floor.
It has a DSP processor w/remote, distortion protection , and puts out 118db according to Manu. specs. Sound is a great improvement over stock.

 

@Hapdog
Can you post pictures of your install? Specifically wiring for the Pioneer for the inputs and at the fuse block? It would be nice to not have to re-invent the wheel if it's already been done.

Thanks!

 

I looked at the info on the pioneer. It looks interesting. Now, for anyone who says 6 inch speakers are not subs...
You're a little behind in technology right now. Coming from the bass guitar music world, I can tell you absolutely if you have the right speaker and box a 6" speaker will put out a tremendous amount of bass. This one has 2. It's also a class d amp, which is becoming old in instrument amplifiers....so this might be a great alternative. I think if I go this route, due to the size, I'll just sit it on the floor of the hatchback with something to keep it from moving. Its wide and flat enough to put stuff on.

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Has anyone installed this sub (Pioneer TS-WX70DA?)
I just purchased one off Amazon, waiting for it to show up. Any pictures of an install? Wiring how to?
Can you cut foam to have it go under the trunk floor?

 

I'm not looking to wake up the neighborhood, just something moderately better. Emphasis here is on simplest install, ideally something that is a like-for-like replacement. i.e. subwoofer that fits in roughly the same housing without needing to cut up the foam, can reuse the amp, buy a ready-made adapter plug/etc, and that's about it. I've read these threads:

Cheapie Sub Upgrade using Rockford Fosgate PS-8
Drop in sub upgrade with Kenwood KSC-SW11
DIY Amp/Sub Install, with minimal impact to factory...

They seem to use rectangular subwoofer units with integrated amps, requires cutting up the foam, rewiring, etc, a lot more involved. Is the sony amp in the back the problem, or the woofer itself? Why do the above threads always replace both of them?

Or, is this idea a pipe dream?

I went with a Rockford Fosgate system. Sub is in the trunk (12 inch with RF enclosure), can be taken out easily if I need the trunk. Front speakers are a straight swap with stock enclosures (incl. sony ones for tweeters) Rockford Fosgate T2652S RF Power Components.

 

What wire did you use for the remote amp turn on lead?

 

Canadian dollars.

 

I got it sorted. Carved my styrofoam out to fit the box in, and wired it as such...
The Pioneer takes a constant 10 amp source for power, so I tapped into one of the spades in the middle row of the rear fuse box.
It also takes a remote turn on signal which I just did a fuse tap to one of the switched fuses in the rear fuse box.
Signal wires came from the donor 'sub' I broke the case open and snipped the wires to use the molex connector.
The Pioneer can handle standard RCA voltage or line level inputs, so I just used one pair of the two lines that went to the original 4" sub.
I originally used both, but I had no output until I removed one pair of inputs.
The old sub hold down provided a good ground.

I didn't bother routing the control into the passenger space, just temporarily threw it over the back seat into the front of the car and dove around and listened to a sample of my music and tuned it at my max volume. I just velcro'd the long cable up and tucked it away in the trunk.

Clean install I think, can't tell it's there under the rear floor.

Sound is pretty good, don't expect to be rattling license plates with 2 sixes in a ported box. Adds a very much needed boost to the low end, not overpowering, but you can feel it is there.

Overall, I'm happy with the purchase and the upgrade, once I sorted wiring, building the wiring harness took about 15 minutes. Longest part of the install was trying to carve through the styrofoam in the back in order to fit the box. Not a fun process, but I took my time to preserve as much of the styrofoam as I could, and ended up with a good, tight fit. Box doesn't seem to move at all. I'll probably figure out a strap to tie it down to a hard point just in case.

 

Turdferg74-

You have any pics?
I'm trying to figure out what you mean by "signal wires" and why you broke open the sub-case to get to the wires...

I was just gonna use the two wires [connector] that simply plug in the round "case". I thought that this the sub/single-channel input.

Anyway....

I had ordered these "new-old-stock" two 8-inch Kicker 100-Watt powered sub-enclosures off eBay, one is $80 and the other is $100, to install in the hatch/trunk space.
Visually, either one is possible. I PLAN on installing BOTH so that I can get a "nice thump" complimenting the existing Sony system.

The truck-looking enclosure is facing the rear seats [forward] and the other enclosure will face the hatch/trunk area. Looks like these will take minimal space....

I will post pics what they look like in the trunk/hatch space.... it will be at least a month before I attempt to wire these in since I'm stilling finishing up on my home projects.


eBay Toyota Echo Kicker 8" Powered Sub-Enclosure


eBay Toyota Matrix Kicker 8" Powered Sub-Enclosure

I contacted Stillwater Designs [Kicker] in Oklahoma for the install instructions & found these will be easy to install BUT need to figure out the signal/sound input to wire these subs to.

 

I can try to get you some pictures soon...
Signal wires meaning the actual wires that supply the music to the amp.
Like in a conventional amp/sub/head unit set up, the RCA cables that deliver the music from the head unit to the amp.
The Pioneer takes RCA or line level inputs, so the best way in my opinion was to crack up the worthless old sub and cut the wires at the terminals for the voice coil(s).
By doing this, I had my line level inputs with the factory molex connector on one end, and bare wire on the other.
So, if I need or want to pull the sub out, I can remove the Pioneer wiring harness, and the only wires left that connect to the car terminate in a molex connector.

The other 'signal' wires I was asking about were the remote turn on wire.
The 12V wire that turns the amp on when a 12V signal is detected.
Without this, your amp will stay on until your battery is dead.
For this, I just used a switched power lead from the rear fuse box, along with a constant 12V from the same.

 

I ditched the Styrofoam "RS" pieces from the hatch so I can have more use-able space in the hatch area.
I used Stinger-brand "Roadkill" carpet pad & trimmed to cover the entire bare-metal hatch floor so that it blends nicely. Paid about $40 from amazon....
Stinger RKCP12


The Kicker amps [based on the instructions] uses the speaker inputs sensing so there is no separate remote wire, which is why I "eyed" these powered subs besides their sizes.
Based on the instructions, it looks like it's using 4-channel speaker "high-level" so I'm gonna have two wires [on OE connector to the donut-sub] spliced-out to 8 wires for each enclosure.

12V -or- [+] wire connection, yes I was wanting to "mimic" yours by tapping directly in the rear fusebox. If not, I was gonna run 8-gauge wiring from the battery with AMP-breaker versus the traditional fuse-block.
Then connect a "power block/manifold" so I can then run individual power [+] wires to each enclosure.
Also, want "mimic" your grounding...

The pics would help save me time & guess work, sorta speak...

 

You may need more power (amperage) than I do. My box will run off of 10 amps power. You might have to run power from the battery.

 

Overview pic test fitting my two new Kicker enclosures in my trunk/hatch area...

NO styrofoam RS pieces

 

CLOSEUP:

Lite-grey enclosure is the "truck-style" box and sits in front & below my FSwerks stress-bar....
Charcoal enclosure is "wedged/squeezed" below the stress bar and facing the opposite...
They BOTH sit or fit nicely up against the rear seats too...
-------------
Now waiting for the Molex connector to arrive....

 

For others that are curious:

Here's the connector to "simplify" the install
And the wire/harness is 10 feet in length, so I guess I could "wire-it-in" behind the radio...
But I'm gonna cut it to the length I need in the trunk/hatch area.

 

Hhhhhmmmmm??????

Traded my '13 ST2 in on my '16 RS2 about two months ago. Noticed a down grade in bass right away. The ST had a 6" sub mounted in the R rear corner of the hatch area (completely above the cargo floor mat if you're not familiar with STs) that wasn't the greatest, but easily better than the RS's set up. I like Turdferg74's solution from performance, installation, and cost effectiveness perspectives!

Though if I hit the Powerball tonight; jcgtok17's setup won't be looking as out of reach as it is right now!

Or, I may Red Green the whole thing. Trailer hitch, small trailer, 2500 w generator on the trailer, with my Klipsch Pro Media enclosed 300 w 12" home theater sub sitting in the cargo area and plugged into the generator with an extension cord!

Who's got THE BASS now, kids?

 

Time to resurrect this topic.

Ssssooooooo.........................I just did some research on ebay; the stock ST sub is actually an 8"; not a 6" as I stated above. Regardless; it was still far better than the dinky RS sub buried under the hatch carpet/floor pad.

I've been looking at subs at classiccarstereo.com (though I may buy elsewhere)-------I'm thinking either an 8 or 10 will do me just fine, and I'm leaning towards either a Kicker or Rockford Fosgate (JEZUZ!!!! they sure want enough for a JL brand sub unit!) and as I think the stock RS sub location sucks, and I don't mind giving up a bit of room above the carpet/floor pad; mounting an 8 or 10 in the hatch area, ala my former ST, is a good option for me.

Also I liked 4rd SVT's idea of ditching the RS styrofoam whatever under the hatch carpet/floor pad and the tip on Stinger (may use Dynamat) for some extra hatch room!

Couple of questions though: Is the RS sub powered or unpowered?

Regardless; I'm leaning towards a powered 8 or 10 in the 150-200 RMS w range. Am I nuts for doing that, or should I just stick with unpowered if that's what the stock RS sub is?

What's the community take on KIcker vs RF? Either one stand above the other in "your" opinion, and be easier to mate up with the stock RS sub wiring harness?

TY!

Oh yea! I'll take any spare change you have to donate to this cutting edge and eminently worthy project at: Wiley's Aerospace Operations, LTD located right next to SpaceX in Hawthorne, CA.