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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Great work! I ordered a different kit, a full 12" powered box. It was so cheap on amazon I figured I would go for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fos..._1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502718052&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+powered+subwoofers

Now I guess I have to actually run a real power wire through the firewall, ugh.
Just a thought to perhaps save you time. The Amp in the P300 is 300 watts (or approx 25A @ 12v). I'm pretty sure one of the larger centre terminals in the trunk's fusebox can easily handle a 25A max load. There should not be any need to go all the way back to battery for just 300w.
 
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Truth? I was considering one of those larger options but the 8" was in my wish list and that is what the SO ordered before I updated the wishlist. I'm happy and it is compact so all in all Win! I will still be interested to read your review as I could always move the 8" into my SUV (who's sub is actually dead I think) and then go with the 10" or 12" in the RS. Though at that point I'd be more likely to roll my own using the amps and sub drivers I have left over from my EVO8 build. Will just cost me MDF and small accessories since I have everything else.
 
Just a thought to perhaps save you time. The Amp in the P300 is 300 watts (or approx 25A @ 12v). I'm pretty sure one of the larger centre terminals in the trunk's fusebox can easily handle a 25A max load. There should not be any need to go all the way back to battery for just 300w.
This seems to make sense mathematically but it makes me nervous for some reason. Isn't that gauge of wire kinda small? I think the fuses are the micro ones.
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
This seems to make sense mathematically but it makes me nervous for some reason. Isn't that gauge of wire kinda small? I think the fuses are the micro ones.
No, it's the larger terminals running in the centre of the fuseblock - not the smaller microfuses. If you look at the fuseblock you will see that one of the centre taps already has a 30A (or 25A) relay or fuse in place. The remaining 3 or 4 taps are available for use.

Info: http://www.focusst.org/forum/attach...ics/72690d1414767913-13-14-focus-st-fuse-box-diagrams-luggage-compartment-1.png . (F23 - F28 on the diagram).
 
No, it's the larger terminals running in the centre of the fuseblock - not the smaller microfuses. If you look at the fuseblock you will see that one of the centre taps already has a 30A (or 25A) relay or fuse in place. The remaining 3 or 4 taps are available for use.

Info: http://www.focusst.org/forum/attach...ics/72690d1414767913-13-14-focus-st-fuse-box-diagrams-luggage-compartment-1.png . (F23 - F28 on the diagram).
I get it now, thanks for the tip! I will check that panel out. I have never looked in there yet.
 
Truth? I was considering one of those larger options but the 8" was in my wish list and that is what the SO ordered before I updated the wishlist. I'm happy and it is compact so all in all Win! I will still be interested to read your review as I could always move the 8" into my SUV (who's sub is actually dead I think) and then go with the 10" or 12" in the RS. Though at that point I'd be more likely to roll my own using the amps and sub drivers I have left over from my EVO8 build. Will just cost me MDF and small accessories since I have everything else.
Yup! I'll post back on how it goes! I'll be doing the high level inputs for now.
 
Assuming you are simply going to do a basic install and connect the sub to the stock sub's connector...

The RF PS-8 comes with all wiring you need except some speaker wire and a fuse tap.

The only additional items required are:
- a larger spade or ring connector for ground (prob 3/8"). Kit comes with one, but it's too small to fit under the bolt I suggested). e.g., https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-connector-corporation/19070-0109/WM18292-ND/279093 .
- a fuse tap to tap into one of the many spare +12v empty fuse slots in the trunk's fuse panel. Pop a fuse out and take it in the h/w store with you to ensure you get the right size because there are several different sizes of auto fuses.
- Two lengths (2' to 4' in length each depending on where you plan to locate the sub) of approx 16-18g speaker wire to connect the old stock sub's connector that you salvage to the removable input connector block on the new sub unit. There's no point in anything heavier than 16g.
- some basic tools (don't need anything special except the Torx screwdriver/bit to re/re the bolt under the foam for ground. You could do the entire job with a Leatherman if you were so inclined)
- some quality electrical tape (or better yet, some quality double-walled waterproof shrink tubing) for the 9 wire splices you will do.

That's all you need.
Thank you for the response. It is appreciated! I have a few other quick q's if you have a minute:
1) What is the connector that you took out of the sub? Is it in the pictures? I think it will make more sense once I rip it apart but I'm curious
2) I bought a kicker hideaway 11HS8 - very similar. However, the fuse in the line (the ring with the covered fuse) is 15a. Should I use a 15a fuse in the fuse tap?
3) The fuse taps all have 2 slots. Do I leave one empty since I am using an empty slot in the fuse box?

I've done a headunit before but that's it. I'm a little clueless on the sub thing so any help is greatly appreciated. This will be my first foray into soldering.
 
For anyone who does not want to rip apart existing sub (not claiming it's worth saving but) the part you need is a Molex connector. Part number is printed on the side of it. See pic - sold by digikey. Also need the terminals that go in the housing to wire it up.
Thank you for the response. It is appreciated! I have a few other quick q's if you have a minute:
1) What is the connector that you took out of the sub? Is it in the pictures? I think it will make more sense once I rip it apart but I'm curious
2) I bought a kicker hideaway 11HS8 - very similar. However, the fuse in the line (the ring with the covered fuse) is 15a. Should I use a 15a fuse in the fuse tap?
3) The fuse taps all have 2 slots. Do I leave one empty since I am using an empty slot in the fuse box?

I've done a headunit before but that's it. I'm a little clueless on the sub thing so any help is greatly appreciated. This will be my first foray into soldering.
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Thank you for the response. It is appreciated! I have a few other quick q's if you have a minute:
1) What is the connector that you took out of the sub? Is it in the pictures? I think it will make more sense once I rip it apart but I'm curious
2) I bought a kicker hideaway 11HS8 - very similar. However, the fuse in the line (the ring with the covered fuse) is 15a. Should I use a 15a fuse in the fuse tap?
3) The fuse taps all have 2 slots. Do I leave one empty since I am using an empty slot in the fuse box?

I've done a headunit before but that's it. I'm a little clueless on the sub thing so any help is greatly appreciated. This will be my first foray into soldering.
1. It's the only connector on the Stock Sub. It's the one that @GoodbyeGolfR references above.
2. Use a 15A fuse in the tap. If you used less than 15A the smaller A fuse would blow if the amp in the 11HS8 can actually pull up to (or close to) 15A. You don't want a smaller A fuse in the tap. If you are leaving the 15A inline in the power wire to the 11HS8 then you can use 15A or higher in the tap.
3. Yes, the passthrough fuse slot would be unused because you're not tapping into a fused position on the fuseblock. One slot is for the passthrough current (you would normally put your pulled out fuse in that slot if you were tapping into an existing fused position on the fuseblock). The other slot is the fuse for the wire coming off the tap.
 
We all know the stock sub is next to useless. At this stage I just wanted some more kick in the sound without starting a significant rip & replace of speakers/components, so I bought this: https://www1.crutchfield.com/p_575P...d.com/p_575PS8/Rockford-Fosgate-PS-8.html?search=rockford_fosgate_ps-8&skipvs=T

My reasons for choosing the PS-8 were:
1. Height. it's low enough to fit more or less flush in the existing cubby area (with some minor cutting).
2. Flexibility & convenience. High level inputs, varied on/off control, remote level control.
3. Reviews. Well reviewed for what it is.
4. Price - got mine from eBay for a great deal.

This is the end result.

You can see it's flush enough so the trunk floor/cover sits easily over the unit. It has only the slightest height protrusion towards the centre of the unit - this doesn't interfere in any significant way with the trunk floor sitting in place (at least not where I located the unit).

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I usually take more pics of a mini project like this, but I hadn't planned initially on posting this because it was so basic. Then I thought it might be useful to some - so this is all I have. :-/

Re-Use the Old Sub's Connector
I first took out the doughnut stock sub and proceeded to dissect it so I could behold the wonder of its engineering (actually I just wanted to get the connector off it).

Once you get it open you can easily clip the wires and extract the connector for you to re-purpose to plug into the existing harness. I soldered & shrink-wrapped some male RCA connectors to this connector to plug into the female RCA connectors on the sub. Instructions say to cut the RCAs off if wiring to high-level source, but I didn't want to cut them off [yet], so I used RCAs on both sides.

I'm sure there are pics of it already out there, but for anyone curious...

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Choose a Location
I measured the width/depth of the unit and chose a location for it. Then I did some minor cutting to make a spot for it that will keep it snug. Note I reused some of the cutout pieces to level the area where I put it.

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Note in the above pic that I removed the bracket and protruding bolts from the old sub location. I put some clear sealant (dries clear) in the holes to protect the open holes.

The location is convenient.
- I can simple move the right side rear seat forward and access the controls from there if necessary.
- The weight of the unit is in front of the rear wheels and opposite the driver (little thing, but it all adds up imo).

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Power
- I removed the T40 bolt that is directly underneath the foam cubby area where I placed the speaker (about 4" in from the wheelwell) and put a grounding lug in place there and returned the bolt into place. It's a nice bare grounding area under the painted bolt - good grounding point.
- Re +12, I used a fuse tap to tap into one of the available/unused SWITCHED power terminal/plugs in the trunk's fusebox. Some thoughts here... I don't play audio super loud, and I don't listen to [a lot of] pounding audio, so I felt ok feeding the power to the sub with just a standard 16g wire 10A fused tap. Plus the in-line fuse the unit comes with in the supplied power wire is 10A, so in theory 16g wire feeding 10A should be perfectly fine. However, if I felt I needed more current, there are of course high-current terminals in the same fusebox. If I were to use one of those I would use the lower current switched 12v to power a relay between a high-current (ALWAYS ON) 12v terminal and some significantly heavier gauge wire to the sub.


Results
- For a self-contained 8" sub, it puts out some good power.
- I still have to run the remote volume control, but I have it set to about 2/5 power level now and that seems about right for my listening.
- Miles beyond the stock sub in effectiveness.
- Seamlessly sits in place.
- Overall a satisfying cheap and simple upgrade for the system that moves it from total crap sound to middling level sound - enough to tide me over until a full upgrade sometime in the future.

Notes
- Although the use of RCAs may imply a low-level signal input to the sub, as noted I am actually using the high-level input directly from the stock sub harness and. I used the RCA M/F connectors just for convenience (the sub already comes with the RCA Females attached and I didn't really want to cut them off if I didn't have to).
I went with the 12 inch Rockford Forgate enclosure. Great base and easily removed for trips where I need the space (rare). JCG
 

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Truth? I was considering one of those larger options but the 8" was in my wish list and that is what the SO ordered before I updated the wishlist. I'm happy and it is compact so all in all Win! I will still be interested to read your review as I could always move the 8" into my SUV (who's sub is actually dead I think) and then go with the 10" or 12" in the RS. Though at that point I'd be more likely to roll my own using the amps and sub drivers I have left over from my EVO8 build. Will just cost me MDF and small accessories since I have everything else.
So everything is done. It is substantially larger than the setup you used. I still don’t have it all tuned yet. I have the crossover set around 80 right now and the gain only a hair above 1/4. I still have to play with it a bit more to dial it in. I would like to see the diff between high and low level inputs. I was able to set the EQ around 50% on the bass. Hopefully that gives the speakers some relief.

I left the original sub in place and tapped into the wires connected to it. I will most likely remove it all together this weekend. The ground is connected to one of the bolts under the sub and I ran a power wire all the way back from the battery.

Image
 
Yeah I think at this point what I find most frustrating / disappointing is just how badly the system chops off bass at even medium high volume. No amount of gain tweaking seems to help after like 22 on the volume dial; it just feels anemic. So who knows no matter what I might have to get that thing that pulls the raw CAN signal and build my modest system from that. Very annoying really because that is a big buy-in to just then put a small 8" sub and probably keep the stock speakers, but gain real control over it all.
 
I also tried this and couldn't make it work. I ended up just running the old fashion way: power wire through the firewall and back to the hatch.
Same. Thank you all for your help. I wound up wiring the sub directly to the battery. The kicker hideaway comes with everything necessary to wire straight to the battery. No other parts were needed. My soldering wasn't top notch but it got the job done. Pretty sure I inhaled a few ounces of tin in the process.

A few tips:
1) cut a coat hanger and tape the power wire to it. There is a grommet where the hood release cable goes, tucked behind some cloth up to the left of the clutch peddle. I was able to slide it all the way up to the batter with some finagling and cuts on my hands.
2) You can look up a Ford Sony sound system wiring guide to figure out the + and - wires that you will take out of the factory sub. The wires in the harness are purple, yellow, purple/green, and gray (or light blue). On the other side of the connector the colors are different. It doesn't matter which side is Left or Right. You just need to make sure you have the correct + and - together on each side.
 
Discussion starter · #38 · (Edited)
i got the connector out today but the fuse tap is too boxy and wont fit into the slot. is there a specific one i need or did you modify the tap and/or fuse box?
Are you sure you got the correct size tap? I believe the Focus uses mini fuses. This is the one I used: https://www.amazon.ca/Littelfuse-FHM200BP-mini-fuse-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B000FIWAP0

No modifications were required. A lot easier than routing wire to the front. You can see I have also put a few female connectors on the centre high-Amp feeds on the fuseblock - for future use maybe.

Unless you're running a device > 300W there's no reason to have to go to battery.

 
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Discussion starter · #39 ·
Yeah I think at this point what I find most frustrating / disappointing is just how badly the system chops off bass at even medium high volume. No amount of gain tweaking seems to help after like 22 on the volume dial; it just feels anemic. So who knows no matter what I might have to get that thing that pulls the raw CAN signal and build my modest system from that. Very annoying really because that is a big buy-in to just then put a small 8" sub and probably keep the stock speakers, but gain real control over it all.
Yes, this is one reason I personally believe going with anything bigger (on the stock system) than a basic self-powered 8" is just more lipstick on a pig. The stock system is extremely wanting - the addition of the 8" powered sub just makes the system a little less meh...

After playing with the levels to get something that sounds ok, I ended up with the sub level running at about 25% gain - anything higher is just too much for me and the bass just overwhelms the weak mids and highs.

Years ago I bought a sound upgrade kit for my GT-R that a fellow in the UK had put together. It came with an Audison bit ten D (Audison bit - bit Ten D) that he had tuned for the Hertz speakers and the GT-R's acoustic traits. It really transformed the audio performance in the car (night and day). Perhaps a processor similar to the bit ten D would help balance the stock head unit's output when feeding it into a higher-powered amp?
 
I'm considering the Maestro AR with Kenwood amp and still keeping the RF for now. To hear everyone talk about it that will be a big improvement and will at least set me up very well if I decide I just have to take up more truck space with a bigger sub.
 
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