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Keep or Sell?


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It's all depends on the shop. Current shop alignment techniques can actually make a car straighter than it was when it left the factory. I've personally experienced this on one occasion and have seen a friends car go through far more than you're describing and he still owns the car 8 years later. I'll tell you this though, odds are you'll be bringing it back for supplemental repairs for the next couple of months. I had a few minor issues after mine was in the shop for 8 weeks. Finally got the bugs worked out and had 4 trouble free years with it until I traded it in.
 

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I would take it back and just drive it if i was going to get a sizable diminished value claim. If they were just going to try and kick me a couple grand i would fight them tooth and nail and get the car totaled and you paid out on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I received pics from the shop of what they need to cut out and replace...not super confident about this. Everything in green.
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Go get a lawyer and call it a day. Unless the body shop is replacing that rail , walk away and get lawyer. They are gonna heat it and pull it , while also pulling out spot welds as oem supplies. If they do a new one that’s insane amount of work.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
View attachment 338236
View attachment 338237 Go get a lawyer and call it a day. Unless the body shop is replacing that rail , walk away and get lawyer. They are gonna heat it and pull it , while also pulling out spot welds as oem supplies. If they do a new one that’s insane amount of work.
Supposedly they are cutting it out and welding replacement pieces in.
 

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I feel for ya man, I would be fkn pissed beyond belief. U should ask for the welder credentials since is liability related. Cant hurt, also ask about oem epoxy primer on welded area, not primer alone as it wont stick for long.
 

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It is gonna cost your insurance more money to have it fix then to just pay out. That is insane

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Discussion Starter #31
I feel for ya man, I would be fkn pissed beyond belief. U should ask for the welder credentials since is liability related. Cant hurt, also ask about oem epoxy primer on welded area, not primer alone as it wont stick for long.
When I asked about the welder, the response I got was "we are putting the most experience guy on it". The way he said it didn't inspire confidence. Almost like they have 1 guy that has welded before and they'll give him a shot.

It is gonna cost your insurance more money to have it fix then to just pay out. That is insane

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The last estimate I got was over $15k in repairs and over 100 hours of labor. Allstate requires another $15k in repairs to total it :\
 

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Seen those marks before on my Old Evo.

AllState is one tough customer to convince to just total the car.
 

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100 hours labour. It wouldn’t take that long to re-shell the car into a new factory body, that would of been the only way to 100% guarantee it to be straight.

If the impact was severe enough to knock out the rear sub frame, which must of pulled the mounting points it my crab and burn out tyres on the inner or outer edges.

If it’s not had a shell SELL it off
 

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Our brand new Subaru Outback got rear ended at a light - guy hit us going 40mph. You can image what it looked like, far worse than the damage in your car. The body shop cut off all the unibody parts which could not be fixed, and welded in a whole lot of new chassis and body. It's now been three years, and the car is absolutely perfect - no sign that anything was ever wrong. What I learned from watching the progress every few days is that manufacturers produce collision repair manuals which indicate where the body can be cut and re-welded safely, and even the pattern of the welds to follow (well, at least Subaru does). Our car didn't have enough damage ($18,000) to total it, so it was repaired. This sort of repair can be done right, just push your shop to do the right thing, not the fast things.
 

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That looks like some serious repairs that wouldn’t leave me too confident with the end result.
I feel for ya man, I would be fkn pissed beyond belief. U should ask for the welder credentials since is liability related. Cant hurt, also ask about oem epoxy primer on welded area, not primer alone as it wont stick for long.
What I learned from watching the progress every few days is that manufacturers produce collision repair manuals which indicate where the body can be cut and re-welded safely, and even the pattern of the welds to follow (well, at least Subaru does).

This sort of repair can be done right, just push your shop to do the right thing, not the fast things.
^This. As much as I hate money grubbing insurance companies, they are inherently risk averse, so they usually hire places with the right credentials and training, albeit probably the cheapest ones they can find. I'm not so worried about the frame damage repair as much as the underlying issues that may have resulted from the damage. I've had a similar experience with my last "totalled" car: no issues with the frame and body after the 2 years post repair, but I was chasing various electrical gremlins and minor mechanical fit issues that whole time.
 

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^This. As much as I hate money grubbing insurance companies, they are inherently risk averse, so they usually hire places with the right credentials and training, albeit probably the cheapest ones they can find. I'm not so worried about the frame damage repair as much as the underlying issues that may have resulted from the damage. I've had a similar experience with my last "totalled" car: no issues with the frame and body after the 2 years post repair, but I was chasing various electrical gremlins and minor mechanical fit issues that whole time.
Im fortunate enough to both have my Mom as insurer and 30+ years in the business, plus cousin who owned and operated a AAA repair facility. The back n forth emails the customer never sees is the thing that gripes me. They decide on your best interest. Its Shady, but this doesn't mean that their doesn't exist a great body shop who cares. I just only know of one...............
 
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