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Discussion Starter #1
Just want to confirm how to best use my new quick jack. Should I place the rubber blocks directly in line with the jack point arrows centered under the pinch weld? I assume I should also take a circular and make a slot for the pinch welds? How deep?

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Discussion Starter #3
Steeda jacking rails for the win
Maybe. If after a few lifts I think the blocks are a PITA then rails are a no-brainer. Now, I just wanna know how to safely use the kit I already have.

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I've always used the pinch welds on a traditional jack. Not sure why the quickjack would be any different. If it's a big concern, you can always get one of those hockey pucks with the cutout for the pinch weld.

Lifting by the pinch welds is fine imo.
 

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Just want to confirm how to best use my new quick jack. Should I place the rubber blocks directly in line with the jack point arrows centered under the pinch weld? I assume I should also take a circular and make a slot for the pinch welds? How deep?

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I just got my QJ setup last night for the first time. I didn't want to screw around trying to use just the blocks, so I bought 4 of these: https://www.amazon.com/Potauto-Universal-Aluminum-Grooved-Magnetic/dp/B078J55SBW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pinch+weld+adapter&qid=1558451211&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Worked fantastic. BUT, when lowering it, make sure both sides are moving. I had one side stop moving last night and I didn't catch it right away..... Had to fully extend them to get them even, the drop it again.



Steeda jacking rails for the win
Irrelevant to his question specific to the quickjack, which is FAR superior to jacking rails.
 

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You could grab four hockey pucks and groove them instead. I have also used 4x4 timber as well(other vehicles) but it would be a little tricky on the RS as there are plastic parts near the jacking locations you need to be mindful of. And yes use the factory pinch weld locations marked on the lower body panels to get a nice balance once up in the air.
 

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Something like the Quickjack that lifts evenly across all four points, just like a two-post lift, is fine with a flat block against the bottom of the pinch welds.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Something like the Quickjack that lifts evenly across all four points, just like a two-post lift, is fine with a flat block against the bottom of the pinch welds.
You don't think I need to cut groves in the rubber blocks that came with the lift?

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Something like the Quickjack that lifts evenly across all four points, just like a two-post lift, is fine with a flat block against the bottom of the pinch welds.
That sounds like a good way to squash your pinch welds.... I didn't think the 4 post lifts used the pinch welds since they can be moved to sit under a flat surface to lift.

It was worth the 44$ for me to get an actual set of pinch weld adapters to use with the QJ to avoid potential damage.
 

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You don't think I need to cut groves in the rubber blocks that came with the lift?

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You do not need to cut grooves on the blocks that comes with the Quick jack. Just line up the blocks with the pinch weld marks on the car. Lift few inches and verified the blocks are center with the pinch welds, if they are not lowered and adjust the blocks, if they are OK then you are set. I have used my QJ a lot the last project I did was to remove the subframe to be able to get to the turbo..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You do not need to cut grooves on the blocks that comes with the Quick jack. Just line up the blocks with the pinch weld marks on the car. Lift few inches and verified the blocks are center with the pinch welds, if they are not lowered and adjust the blocks, if they are OK then you are set. I have used my QJ a lot the last project I did was to remove the subframe to be able to get to the turbo..
I ended up cutting some 5/8th groves in the smaller block set that came with the QJ. I think next time I will turn them Grove side down as the outer trim piece underneath ends up flexing some.


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That sounds like a good way to squash your pinch welds.... I didn't think the 4 post lifts used the pinch welds since they can be moved to sit under a flat surface to lift.
Nope. Every car that’s used pinch welds for lift points that I’ve ever seen put on a 2-post lift has gone on with flat pads and zero damage. That includes my two RSes which I have put onto my two-point lift literally hundreds of times. Anything that is lifting straight up can’t crunch the pinch welds. They only get bent if you have an angular component, such as jacking and putting on jack stands.

Those universal adapters that you linked to still just lift from the bottom of the pinch weld, so it is exactly the same load path. There are speciality pads that extend up the correct height to transfer the load to the body around the pinch welds, but that’s not what Ford has in the service manual.

Pinch welds look sketchy and lifting from them just seems wrong at first, but it’s how it is done and if done with a proper lift, such as the quickjack, there’s no damage. If you move the car far enough on the lift to bend the pinch welds you will have much bigger problems :).
 

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Danti 2pcs Jack Pad Medium Size... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06VWT5LDD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I electrical taped these to the top of my larger blocks and have had zero issues with trying to line them up. The lift has slight play when you push down on them, so you can get them snug and then give them a twist if they do end up slightly off. My RS has been up and down plenty of times and never had an issue.
 

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Damn, do want. Looks so much cleaner than the weird-ass rolling the car back and forth at weird angles I have to do. This car is the biggest pain in the butt to lift. Ford's dumb choice to not provide jacking points is insulting
 

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Damn, do want. Looks so much cleaner than the weird-ass rolling the car back and forth at weird angles I have to do. This car is the biggest pain in the butt to lift. Ford's dumb choice to not provide jacking points is insulting
What? You use the pinch welds, and the car is so stiff just lifting from the front point will elevate the whole side of the car, making it simple to rotate tires. Not sure what you're doing when lifting, but seems like you're making it way harder than it needs to be.
 

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What? You use the pinch welds, and the car is so stiff just lifting from the front point will elevate the whole side of the car, making it simple to rotate tires. Not sure what you're doing when lifting, but seems like you're making it way harder than it needs to be.
He's putting it on jack stands. Sounds like you're just lifting with the jack and leaving it on the jack while rotating the front and rear tires on the one side?

Unfortunately with modern unibody cars, it's common to only have the pinchwelds as lift points, so jack stands are a pain. Thus, lift systems like the QuickJack or JackPoint jack stands are more and more popular.
 

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He's putting it on jack stands. Sounds like you're just lifting with the jack and leaving it on the jack while rotating the front and rear tires on the one side?

Unfortunately with modern unibody cars, it's common to only have the pinchwelds as lift points, so jack stands are a pain. Thus, lift systems like the QuickJack or JackPoint jack stands are more and more popular.

Yes, but I would place a stand under the A-arm mount in case the jack failed. But yes, if you need to jack up both sides I can see how it would be difficult without the QJ. But there's always ramps.
 
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