[MbbRS]

Well I replaced some grilles on the front bumper in sept.. and already they are starting to rust.. So, I’ve taken the original ones that came off and started to clean them up and going to re paint them.. still thinking about what I want to paint them with.. few pics….

it’s been a process of trying different things to remove the paint/rust.. but it’s a home project I’m doing at work.. lol…mostly thinner baths, and some kind of spray I let sit for a week, and then another thinner bath.. I just need to scrub them clean.. then paint..

if you wanted to know what silver paint looks like..

will post final results

 

[Barroux]

Well I replaced some grilles on the front bumper in sept.. and already they are starting to rust.. So, I’ve taken the original ones that came off and started to clean them up and going to re paint them.. still thinking about what I want to paint them with.. few pics…. View attachment 361091
View attachment 361093
View attachment 361090

it’s been a process of trying different things to remove the paint/rust.. but it’s a home project I’m doing at work.. lol…mostly thinner baths, and some kind of spray I let sit for a week, and then another thinner bath.. I just need to scrub them clean.. then paint..

if you wanted to know what silver paint looks like..
View attachment 361092

will post final results

The grilles are really bad in our climate, replaced under warranty and they were just as bad next spring!

You remind me I have aluminum mesh grille (matte black) to try as a replacement, wont have time to pull the bumper until later this summer when we are back from vacation.

Will be interesting to compare how long properly finished OE grilles will last vs the aluminum ones I bought…

 

[morbid]

I'd spend the time trimming up aluminum mesh, instead of trying to restore the factory steel ones. I guess I have been assuming the lower grill was expanded aluminum, but it's steel too?

 

[Barroux]

I'd spend the time trimming up aluminum mesh, instead of trying to restore the factory steel ones. I guess I have been assuming the lower grill was expanded aluminum, but it's steel too?

Definitely steel…rusty steel!!

 

[DeltaT]

Consider getting the mesh powder coated instead of painted. With good prep and an appropriate UV-resistant automotive powder you shouldn't have to touch them for some years.

 

[Barroux]

Consider getting the mesh powder coated instead of painted. With good prep and an appropriate UV-resistant automotive powder you shouldn't have to touch them for some years.

It’s all those small rocks/fine gravel they use to maintain the roads here that tend to get through any coating on cheaper metals like what the grilles are made of. Once the bare metal is exposed it’s over already!

I’m trying an aluminum mesh…at least it wont rust but the coating I believe is painted so they probably will get chipped too.

Will be interesting to compare to what @MbbRS is doing over time see what held better.

Honestly the car is 6yo now, probably the last time I bother trying to make those better…I daily mine and I plan on driving it until it’s too costly to fix. Right now the grilles are an eyesore and dont match the condition the rest of the car is in. By the time the grilles need replacement again, they might match the rest of the car better (hopefully the car stays as clean as possible but it’s starting to age slowly…)z

 

[JamoRS]

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Thanks. They have some great stuff, will be ordering a few things!

 

[Putt Putt]

Made an oil change appointment and asked if they could take off the hatch trim in the back because something is rattling around underneath it. Dealership told me they would need to keep the car for 10 DAYS to do a “diagnostic.”

WTF is that? I have given you the diagnosis, all you need to do is fix it.

 

[JamoRS]

Made an oil change appointment and asked if they could take off the hatch trim in the back because something is rattling around underneath it. Dealership told me they would need to keep the car for 10 DAYS to do a “diagnostic.”

WTF is that? I have given you the diagnosis, all you need to do is fix it.

Why the hell would you let them do that? It will end up f$%ked.
Why not take it off yourself? It's pretty simple.

 

[big jim]

Made an oil change appointment and asked if they could take off the hatch trim in the back because something is rattling around underneath it. Dealership told me they would need to keep the car for 10 DAYS to do a “diagnostic.”

WTF is that? I have given you the diagnosis, all you need to do is fix it.

probly just a nut or 2 from the bottom side of the rear wing (common issue). pretty easy to just remove the panels.

 

[Ankah]

Installing ETS intercooler and pipes, have a tune from Randy @Tunewerks

Only problem is the OAR isn't budging from -.75, driving 40 miles to work and 40 back and no change, will go driving more after I install the intercooler, otherwise I'll have to burn at least 3/4 of a tank of $5.50 93 octane

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[BigFatFlip]

Installing ETS intercooler and pipes, have a tune from Randy @Tunewerks

Only problem is the OAR isn't budging from .75, driving 40 miles to work and 40 back and no change, will go driving more after I install the intercooler, otherwise I'll have to burn at least 3/4 of a tank of $5.50 93 octane

I'm assuming you meant that your OAR is at -0.75 correct? If not, a positive OAR means you've got some pretty bad fuel.

Have you tried hammering on it? If I recall, I can get my OAR down from 0 to -1 after a couple of WOT pulls. Have you also checked with Randy? It's possible that he is intentionally not allowing the OAR to reach -1 for a base tune for safety.

 

[Ankah]

yes i mean -.75 , I will edit original post

as far as Randy, Randy is currently doing my tune and he stated to do Cobb Stage 0 for initial pulls, which I have loaded, and to do do logs when i get -1, which i am having trouble getting, went to another Brand station, in another state ( but still on way to work ), only put 5 Gallons in, and still at -.75

I'm assuming you meant that your OAR is at -0.75 correct? If not, a positive OAR means you've got some pretty bad fuel.

Have you tried hammering on it? If I recall, I can get my OAR down from 0 to -1 after a couple of WOT pulls. Have you also checked with Randy? It's possible that he is intentionally not allowing the OAR to reach -1 for a base tune for safety.

 

[big jim]

@BigFatFlip is correct about driving it in all gears and all rpm's and diff accel loads throughout. should only take like 15-20 miles.

 

[EvanRyan]

I've been away from my RS for the past 3 weeks. I'm not super far away from my RS, it's just that with today's gas prices driving back and fourth 70 miles each day is not affordable. So I've left my RS with my father. I went to have lunch with him Sunday (fathers day) and he tells me that the RS is acting weird. No drive modes, no hill start assist. You know, the usual RS trickery. I know the battery is ready to be replaced, so today I did just that.

I spent a lot of time and money driving, buying, and installing a new battery just to have the problem stick around. After spending over an hour under the hood in 100 degree weather. We drive the car a little before I return home. We take the old battery back to O'Rileys for the core charge rebate. The car is still buggy as hell. After we get back to the house I reset the BCM. Still get all of the usual "no this and that" warnings. Needless to say, I'm more than a little annoyed.

So I did a little research here. I remembered that the exhaust flap can cause this when it doesn't do the unlock check. I can't hear the flap do anything. When the car is locked, pulling on the door handle all you hear is the doors unlock. No flapper check. I also read that sometimes you need to reset the PCM. I guess I can try this, but it will be days before I can get another chance to get back to the RS. I also read that wheel speed sensors can cause this. I knew this car one day would become a PITA... I guess today was that day. I know my problems are minor, I just needed to rant a little.

Installing battery #3. I call this picture "This **** again"

 

[Sparvy]

I've been away from my RS for the past 3 weeks. I'm not super far away from my RS, it's just that with today's gas prices driving back and fourth 70 miles each day is not affordable. So I've left my RS with my father. I went to have lunch with him Sunday (fathers day) and he tells me that the RS is acting weird. No drive modes, no hill start assist. You know, the usual RS trickery. I know the battery is ready to be replaced, so today I did just that.

I spent a lot of time and money driving, buying, and installing a new battery just to have the problem stick around. After spending over an hour under the hood in 100 degree weather. We drive the car a little before I return home. We take the old battery back to O'Rileys for the core charge rebate. The car is still buggy as hell. After we get back to the house I reset the BCM. Still get all of the usual "no this and that" warnings. Needless to say, I'm more than a little annoyed.

So I did a little research here. I remembered that the exhaust flap can cause this when it doesn't do the unlock check. I can't hear the flap do anything. When the car is locked, pulling on the door handle all you hear is the doors unlock. No flapper check. I also read that sometimes you need to reset the PCM. I guess I can try this, but it will be days before I can get another chance to get back to the RS. I also read that wheel speed sensors can cause this. I knew this car one day would become a PITA... I guess today was that day. I know my problems are minor, I just needed to rant a little.

Installing battery #3. I call this picture "This **** again"
View attachment 361190

I had the same faults so I ran for forscan and it was the left rear speed sensor...replaced it and it all went away. Scan the codes and see what it says.

 

[big jim]

I've been away from my RS for the past 3 weeks. I'm not super far away from my RS, it's just that with today's gas prices driving back and fourth 70 miles each day is not affordable. So I've left my RS with my father. I went to have lunch with him Sunday (fathers day) and he tells me that the RS is acting weird. No drive modes, no hill start assist. You know, the usual RS trickery. I know the battery is ready to be replaced, so today I did just that.

I spent a lot of time and money driving, buying, and installing a new battery just to have the problem stick around. After spending over an hour under the hood in 100 degree weather. We drive the car a little before I return home. We take the old battery back to O'Rileys for the core charge rebate. The car is still buggy as hell. After we get back to the house I reset the BCM. Still get all of the usual "no this and that" warnings. Needless to say, I'm more than a little annoyed.

So I did a little research here. I remembered that the exhaust flap can cause this when it doesn't do the unlock check. I can't hear the flap do anything. When the car is locked, pulling on the door handle all you hear is the doors unlock. No flapper check. I also read that sometimes you need to reset the PCM. I guess I can try this, but it will be days before I can get another chance to get back to the RS. I also read that wheel speed sensors can cause this. I knew this car one day would become a PITA... I guess today was that day. I know my problems are minor, I just needed to rant a little.

Installing battery #3. I call this picture "This **** again"
View attachment 361190

did you disengage the external internal dampener?

 

[Zaluss]

Installed the Mountune intercooler as well as Steamspeed hard/soft piping. Steamspeed was pretty cheap ($150) to include the hard pipe, soft pipes, and clamps. They are also local to me though I don't think he is supporting the platform anymore.

Installing the intercooler was mostly painless with the access to the 7mm bolts on the OEM clamps being a pain to reach. Installing it just requires a bit of loosening of the radiator support and it slides into place.

The piping though was a complete pain in the butt due to the clamps not fitting at all without complete disassembly and vicegrips to force the threading into the clamp. After a few hours of doing this, they sure won't budge. I'm not completely happy with the quality of the soft pipes but the hard pipe seem excellent. Worse case scenario I replace them.

Skipped the stencil.

 

[morbid]

Has anyone with Ohlins coilovers and Ground Control hats threaded the top stem more to eliminate the 14mm spacer that comes with the Ohlins? The Vorshlag hats are designed to not need the spacer, but their stack height is still taller.

I still need to do the other strut, but I just shipped that to Ohlins. It was leaking soon after the install.

Before cutting...

After cutting...

Spacer I was wanting to remove...

Looks like everything should work!

 

[RSt~n~peace]

Cracked one of my OZ Superturismo LM “winter” wheels. Must’ve been the perfect hit. I don’t remember any issues and the tire wasn’t damaged. Had a slow leak and couldn’t find a puncture… then found this. Luckily, I bought a spare wheel with this set.