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I’ve been super busy lately, some of which is due to all of the AX events that I’ve been doing with our club.

I finally got my street wheels back from powder coating & they came out great! These are the Sparco Assetto Garas & originally they were matte graphite, but I chose to have them done in satin black. I used them for my first couple of seasons for AX & they were a bit beaten up, so there was some repair needed. Anyway, they came out great & I even added some vinyl decals for the center caps that also came out great. Super happy!





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Is this even after your "special" o ring fix??
Yep, but not related. JE Proseal (rebadged Supertech) gasket failed but likely as a result of insufficient clamping on the head studs. The oil passage fix held perfectly.

Head back and fire ringing done. Oil passage also drilled to seat the seal.





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Yep, but not related. JE Proseal (rebadged Supertech) gasket failed but likely as a result of insufficient clamping on the head studs. The oil passage fix held perfectly.

Head back and fire ringing done. Oil passage also drilled to seat the seal.





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Good luck with this one mate!
 

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Finally got the final post-suspension-swap alignment done on the car this morning. I had an initial alignment done to get it straight knowing that I'd need a second one to fine tune it after the springs settled. The initial was straight, but pretty wonky due to a communication breakdown. This time I took it to my normal shop & the car is stellar now. Side note: they had an old RS2000 up on one of the lifts, so cool!

(What does it say that I have a "normal" shop for alignment? lol)
 

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Finally got the final post-suspension-swap alignment done on the car this morning. I had an initial alignment done to get it straight knowing that I'd need a second one to fine tune it after the springs settled. The initial was straight, but pretty wonky due to a communication breakdown. This time I took it to my normal shop & the car is stellar now. Side note: they had an old RS2000 up on one of the lifts, so cool!

(What does it say that I have a "normal" shop for alignment? lol)
Can you share numbers and what they did different? I thought there wasn't much to adjust on the stock struts.

Thanks,
 

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Can you share numbers and what they did different? I thought there wasn't much to adjust on the stock struts.

Thanks,
You're correct, there really isn't much beyond toe that can be adjusted without adding camber plates, arms, etc.

To clarify, I replaced all 4 dampers with the latest rev OEM dampers & replaced the springs with Mountune springs. Right after that, I had an alignment by a shop right down the street (that I don't normally use & won't go back to) just to straighten it up. I knew that I'd have to have a second alignment after the springs had settled, & planned to take it to my normal shop across town for that one.

There were some communication issues with the first shop & the settings that I ended up with had the toe out in the rear and 0 toe in the front - not what I wanted. Although it was straight, the car drove a little wild.

When I took it to my preferred shop for the second alignment (after the new springs had settled), I had the toe set in just a little all the way around, only about .03 at each wheel. Drives much better like this. Thanks to @lflouie for the recommendation on that.
 

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@nwnerd
That is the path I'm going soon but with the addition of a rear sway. I don't recall you adding a rear sway bar. Basically what @lflouie did with his car is what I want to do. I want to add some bushings as well, but I need to figure out which ones will be best for my NVH wants.

@lflouie
The .03 toe all around work good for highspeed turns? I have a canyon near by that is highspeed sweepers that I would like to make my car tackle better.

Thanks,
 

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What are you wanting to correct for to improve your canyon runs? Is the car pushing, poor turn-in, etc?

As the turns become tighter (more aggressive) it is usually a combination of camber, and tires that need to be addressed....swaybars can also help by increasing the speed/rate of weight transfer (transferring wt faster) and adding some additional spring rate only during cornering.

If you are autoxing or tracking then I might consider some selective bushing improvements, otherwise you are looking at marginal benefits on the street, IMO.

Here is my car on the Tail of the Dragon
353841
 

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@lflouie
I have a '17 RS early build I think. I had to get the headgasket replaced.

So this road is high speed turns (Lots of turns like 60mph - 80mph, but also 40mph - 50mph as well) but with bumpy road surface. I can't really use sport suspension because It will be too bumpy and not give me confidence that the car is able to absorb the bumps will also taking the turn. In normal suspension I get too much body roll for the highspeed turns, the weight transfer / floating feeling kills my confidence.

This is where I see the revised dampers and mountune springs will come into play and help out. I think the road is going to get repaved soon so the road surface should improve.

As for bushing I was thinking this to reduce "torque steer" I get when the straights allow for near triple digits. I have turned off hill assist and have traction control completely off as some people say that helps with "torque steer". To me it seems if you're accelerating on a crowned road, it will follow the crown to either side. Hard to explain.

Focus ST/RS Powerflex Front Control Arm Rear Bushing Anti-Lift & Caster Offset
 

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@lflouie
I have a '17 RS early build I think. I had to get the headgasket replaced.

So this road is high speed turns (Lots of turns like 60mph - 80mph, but also 40mph - 50mph as well) but with bumpy road surface. I can't really use sport suspension because It will be too bumpy and not give me confidence that the car is able to absorb the bumps will also taking the turn. In normal suspension I get too much body roll for the highspeed turns, the weight transfer / floating feeling kills my confidence.

This is where I see the revised dampers and mountune springs will come into play and help out. I think the road is going to get repaved soon so the road surface should improve.

As for bushing I was thinking this to reduce "torque steer" I get when the straights allow for near triple digits. I have turned off hill assist and have traction control completely off as some people say that helps with "torque steer". To me it seems if you're accelerating on a crowned road, it will follow the crown to either side. Hard to explain.

Focus ST/RS Powerflex Front Control Arm Rear Bushing Anti-Lift & Caster Offset

You are facing exactly what I disliked about the stock suspension: too stiff in Sport suspension setting and normal had more roll than I cared for.....but no simple single fix.

Since suspensions are an interdependent system I made the following changes: 1) Mountune springs to lower car (aid handling) and remove "pogoing", 2) Greater wheel offset (10mm) to widen stance and soften the effective spring rates/ damper stiffnes, but not too much to affect steering geometry, 3) Rear rev 1 shocks to soften rear damping. Note, this actually slightly increased the roll and helped compliance in the corners (better grip) but it also slowed the weight transfer to the outer front wheel making for sluggish turn-in and some push at the extremes. 4) Added a rear sway bar to increase cornering spring rates and hasten the rate of weight transfer while cornering...the key is not too big of a bar...moderation is best on swaybars, IMO.

This has yielded a formidable all around back road and mtn road carver with good high speed handling. Note, I have not done the front bar, nor rev 2 struts bc this met my needs....but those add ons should help even more. Lastly, @nwnerd has had good luck with the latest DSC controller and software, so there are a few additional things to do depending on your budget.

Regarding the "crowning/torque steer" feel, @nwnerd has done some work on this and claims that it has been greatly reduced. My mods alone have improved but not eliminated this characteristic, but I'm unconvinced that it is bushing related. I still think it is combination of the Ford stability control system and the vectoring rear diff. I think you could possibly eliminate it but I also think that it may diminish some of the cornering capability that makes this car sooooo good in the corners.
 

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@lvevo
Yes, tramlining, crowning, torque steer.....whatever you want to call it, it was really bad on my car in the stock configuration. The following was the evolution to the fix:

DSC Controller
The behavior did get better, but when the car did decide to tramline it might have been made worse with this mod, although it was hard to describe what was happening. My theory was that on my car this was PDC being too aggressive & if that's true, then it may make sense for it to be even worse when it activates with a suspension that's planted & controlled. When I first installed the controller, the way the car behaved on rutted pavement was far more "computer-ish" than I'd felt before.

Disable PDC
The car still wandered a little bit when driving on rutted roads, but it became very predictable and didn't feel like the computer was trying to take over or fight what I was trying to do. It finally felt like the car’s steering was only reacting to my inputs.

I've had a long-held suspicion that the PDC algorithm that Ford is using on this car is pretty terrible & I think that the results that I've seen make that theory at least plausible. And then, adding crappy stock dampers along with mis-matched springs as an OEM setup make the situation worse, because the suspension doesn’t keep the tires well planted on the pavement. (Apparently this is also an issue to some degree on the F150s. If you search for Ford F150 pull drift compensation, you'll find some good info.)

Upgraded springs / dampers
After upgrading the dampers & springs, this brought it all together. I'm not going to say that it's completely free from hunting & pecking on rutted roads, but it's far more rare & very predictable when it does happen given a performance car on low profile performance tires.

I'm with @lflouie on the bushings, I'm skeptical that it would fix this issue. That doesn't mean it hasn't for others & wouldn't on your car. Mine was just so bad that I have a very difficult time believing that it would have solved the issue. All of our cars have subtle differences & what works well for one may not make an impact for another. On my car, a big portion of the problem (I would argue the root of the problem) was with the electronics (PDC), & bushings wouldn't have fixed that. YMMV

One comment on the swaybar / controller piece. I've been able to run the dampers in sport mode when auto crossing this season, & that's a first. I haven't ever been able to do that because the setting was just too stiff to keep the tires planted on the normally crappy pavement that we have on a typical autox course. The controller keeps the car really flat without much body roll, which is why I haven't felt the need for swaybars at this point.

Any more details....feel free to ping me, I don't want to thread-jack this any further.
 

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I finally got my wheels and tires on. Enkei NT03-M (18x9.5) with a fresh powder coat in "Rich Grey" and ceramic coated, and Falken Azenis RT660's in 265/35-18. The pic of the full side of the car is before I got a tap to chase the powder coating out of the center cap threads. Oh, the powder coating place even did the center cap ring for free... another place I was considering wanted $20-50 / cap.

The car is pretty dirty because we just had a big storm. So far it's not rubbing, but it has a little more poke than I'd like... so I'll add a bit more negative camber soon.



 

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Today I found out my rear RS emblem vanished..... someone pointed out that it was missing..... :mad:

Luckily I found a replacement on cjponyparts to order.
 

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Today I found out my rear RS emblem vanished..... someone pointed out that it was missing..... :mad:

Luckily I found a replacement on cjponyparts to order.

How much is the replacement and how's the paint?
 
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