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Replaced my transmission and PTU fluid (I just hit 31K miles). Used a little ghetto hack when draining the transmission fluid to keep it from getting all over the place (worked perfectly):
View attachment 347964
PTU fluid looked like thick, disgusting chocolate milk. I'm surprised there is no official service interval for it. If this is what the PTU fluid looked like, I'm scared to see what the RDU fluid looks like... I'm just waiting on the friction modifier to arrive, which should be here by tomorrow. So I'll be replacing it sometime this week.
I find it hard to wrap my brain around a never change fluid, on any car, much less one that’s intended to be brutalized.
 

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Replaced my transmission and PTU fluid (I just hit 31K miles). Used a little ghetto hack when draining the transmission fluid to keep it from getting all over the place (worked perfectly):
View attachment 347964
PTU fluid looked like thick, disgusting chocolate milk. I'm surprised there is no official service interval for it. If this is what the PTU fluid looked like, I'm scared to see what the RDU fluid looks like... I'm just waiting on the friction modifier to arrive, which should be here by tomorrow. So I'll be replacing it sometime this week.
yup...my PTU fluid was nasty and stank like dirty butthole. there was about 1/2 inch stack of metal flake stuck to the drain plug magnet too. the RDU fluid wasn't bad at all. barely any metal flake on the plug. i'm sure i'll see more RDU flake next change after uploading the Kacper tune.
 

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Today I installed the new mounting hardware that I got from Amazon for the undertray & got the car all buttoned back up. It's nice to be able to mount that tray up & be confident in a solid connection for all of the screws.

@big jim & @Si2RS ,
Is that supposed to be a lifetime fluid in the PTU? I haven't seen anything calling for changing it, let alone how to change it.
 

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Today I installed the new mounting hardware that I got from Amazon for the undertray & got the car all buttoned back up. It's nice to be able to mount that tray up & be confident in a solid connection for all of the screws.

@big jim & @Si2RS ,
Is that supposed to be a lifetime fluid in the PTU? I haven't seen anything calling for changing it, let alone how to change it.
I don't think the PTU is "officially" lifetime like Ford says the RDU fluid is. It's just that there is no official service interval for it, which is extremely odd. So I'm just going to stick with changing the trans, PTU and RDU fluids every 30K miles. I'm telling you, man... It was shocking how dirty it was...
 
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I don't think the PTU is "officially" lifetime like Ford says the RDU fluid is. It's just that there is no official service interval for it, which is extremely odd. So I'm just going to stick with changing the trans, PTU and RDU fluids every 30K miles. I'm telling you, man... It was shocking how dirty it was...
Gotcha, makes sense. Was it pretty easy to change? What kind of oil does it take?

EDIT: Search is my friend. Doesn't look too bad. I'm at 25k, but I really need another excuse to get back under the car, yet again.
 

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Gotcha, makes sense. Was it pretty easy to change? What kind of oil does it take?
I've only done the trans and PTU so far, but It was all pretty straightforward. These are the fluids you need:
  • Transmission = Motorcraft XT-11-QDC (capacity about 1.8 qts)
  • PTU = Motorcraft XY-75W140-QL (capacity about 0.8 qt)
  • RDU = Motorcraft XY-75W85-QL + Motorcraft XL-19 Friction Modifier (Mix both bottles together) (cap. about 0.9 qt)
I'll be doing my RDU fluid at some point this week. The important thing to remember is make sure the car is level when draining and filling the fluids. Also, make sure you can take off the fill plug before pulling the drain plug. Gotta make sure you can fill it after emptying it. Took a little extra "oomph" to get the PTU drain plug off, probably because all the gunk on it. After draining, just put the drain plug back in and pump fluid in until it starts to overflow out of the fill hole.

The PTU filling was a little bit of a pain because the mouth of the bottle is wider than your standard trans fluid bottle, so the pump I have couldn't screw onto it like it did the trans fluid. This is what I used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It still worked, but I just had to be careful not to knock over the bottle while pumping because it was just sitting on top of the bottle. A little difficult when you're laying flat on your back... I might have the same issue with the RDU fluid, because while the neck is standard size and should work with the pump, I will be pouring the friction modifier into the quart bottle, thereby completely filling the bottle all the way to the top. So I'll have to use the pump detached for the first few pumps until the level goes low enough to screw the pump on and finish the job. Once again, all while on my back. Still looking forward to it though. Haha!
 

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Gotcha, makes sense. Was it pretty easy to change? What kind of oil does it take?

EDIT: Search is my friend. Doesn't look too bad. I'm at 25k, but I really need another excuse to get back under the car, yet again.
good directional vid. its missing the friction modifier fluid...but everything else is good.
i like this vid cuz its a NB with the same wheels i have ;)
 

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Since this task needs the car being leveled, ramps or jacking the front or rear at a time would not help.

I really need to get a set of quick jacks next time it goes on sale.
 

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Ha well I was getting ready to make a rather large order with Tasca anyway, I guess I'll just add those fluids on. Thanks for the tips guys. :)

@nicklulu , I"m actually just having this very conversation with my neighbor right now. I have a decent set of ramps, but need a way to 1) get better access to the rear of the car (because even with the front up, you quickly run out of space as you move to the rear), & 2) find a way to level the car with it up. I don't have quite enough room for a lift, so I was thinking about building a couple of "shoes" that I could set the rear tires on after the front tires are on the ramps & rear tires jacked up. I think that would work.
 

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I have jacked a car on all 4 corners before, as well as the ramp (fronts) and jack (rears).

quick jack should work in most garages and does not take a lot of space.

I just feel jacking/ramping all 4 corners at the same time takes too much time and sometimes I get nervous
 

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Since this task needs the car being leveled, ramps or jacking the front or rear at a time would not help.

I really need to get a set of quick jacks next time it goes on sale.
@SenderPiggins can tell you how's much he loves his
 

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Since this task needs the car being leveled, ramps or jacking the front or rear at a time would not help.

I really need to get a set of quick jacks next time it goes on sale.
I've been contemplating getting the 5000lb quick jack, but can't bring myself to pull the trigger for some reason.
Ha well I was getting ready to make a rather large order with Tasca anyway, I guess I'll just add those fluids on. Thanks for the tips guys. :)

@nicklulu , I"m actually just having this very conversation with my neighbor right now. I have a decent set of ramps, but need a way to 1) get better access to the rear of the car (because even with the front up, you quickly run out of space as you move to the rear), & 2) find a way to level the car with it up. I don't have quite enough room for a lift, so I was thinking about building a couple of "shoes" that I could set the rear tires on after the front tires are on the ramps & rear tires jacked up. I think that would work.
I have two hydraulic jacks, four jack stands and a set of race ramps. I couldn't use the ramps when I did the trans fluid because you need to take off the driver-side wheel. So when I needed to jack up the front, I used my two hydraulic jacks, and did a few pumps at a time on each side to try and raise the front evenly. Then, I put the jack stands where the control arm bushings connect to the subframe and lowered the car onto them. Then, I jacked up the rear on the two bolts on the rear subframe and placed my other jack stands on the pinch wields on the rear. I also left the second hydraulic jack on one of the front pinch wields as a 6th point of contact. Since I'm going to have to raise the car again for the RDU, I'm just going to drive the front up onto the race ramps, then put chocks behind them (and leave it in gear). I also still like to place jack stands under the front just in case. Then, I'll just do the same thing I did with the rear as before. I agree with @nicklulu, it's definitely time consuming to make sure everything is done right. I did this same method when I installed my Mountune V2X exhaust.

Also, I'm always a little "paranoid" whenever I have to get completely under the car, but I would have that same feeling even if I was using the quick jack. Just make sure you have all your safety measures in place, and your jack and jack stands making as many points of contact as possible.
 

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Yeah, I hear that. I grew up in & around shops, & have seen jacks & jack stands collapse. Twice on people, & one time I saw a full commercial 4 post lift have one corner give way & drop a 1 ton truck on to its side in the bay. It was pure luck that the tech had stepped away for a moment, it would have killed him. Getting under a car REALLY freaks me out, so I've always got a couple of backups in place that absolutely will not allow the car to fall on me.
 

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Today I installed the new mounting hardware that I got from Amazon for the undertray & got the car all buttoned back up. It's nice to be able to mount that tray up & be confident in a solid connection for all of the screws.

@big jim & @Si2RS ,
Is that supposed to be a lifetime fluid in the PTU? I haven't seen anything calling for changing it, let alone how to change it.
I would love to know exactly what you bought from Amazon to accomplish this...It would be nice to have solid mounting hardware down there!
 

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I’m stealing a page from @JamoRS playbook. RV leveling blocks. Build them like legos, adjust front / rear height drive on, level.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-44...Handle-2-x-2-For-Use-for-RV-Leveling/51494177
That's such a good idea! And [email protected]#!-it if I didn't use to have a couple of sets of those, but got rid of them because I no longer have an RV. Oh well.
I would love to know exactly what you bought from Amazon to accomplish this...It would be nice to have solid mounting hardware down there!
Sure, no problem! I bought these:

They matched up perfectly with the old clips even if the color was just a little different, no biggie there. I'll be gentle with them & hopefully they'll hold up, but I've come around in my brain to thinking of these as consumables since they're cheap & easy to come by. I also used a couple of the metal clips that were included in the kit on the sides where the 2 plastic clips would go & so far they seem pretty solid. If that doesn't hold up I can always put the plastic ones back in. Hope that helps!
 

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Thanks! Gonna look into getting them...they are listed as "currently unavailable", but now that i know what they are I'm sure I can find others...
 

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I picked up my RS in 08/31/2018.... Memorial day weekend.

I had a 7 year auto loan on my RS with a 1.90% interest..... I just paid it off after 28 months of owning it.
 

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Thanks! Gonna look into getting them...they are listed as "currently unavailable", but now that i know what they are I'm sure I can find others...

It's available again now.
 
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