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heya,
I have a 2017 RS curently tuned with Stratified on 91. ETS intercooler, cp-e cold side with tial Q 50mm and hot side pipe, cold plugs, boomba motor mounts and green filter. Its super fun and I don't really need more power, but I am concerned with keeping my engine clean and so I'm thinking of water/meth. My gas sucks and tuning was difficult with heavy knock.
I wonder if anyone has experience they can share, especially on a 91 tune. I would like a progressive controller, preferably with a guage that looks good in the cabin. That AEM v2 plastic thing with the knobs is awful, and I don't want to mount it under the hood, I want to see any warnings right away.
Thanks for reading
Bumper
 

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heya,
I have a 2017 RS curently tuned with Stratified on 91. ETS intercooler, cp-e cold side with tial Q 50mm and hot side pipe, cold plugs, boomba motor mounts and green filter. Its super fun and I don't really need more power, but I am concerned with keeping my engine clean and so I'm thinking of water/meth. My gas sucks and tuning was difficult with heavy knock.
I wonder if anyone has experience they can share, especially on a 91 tune. I would like a progressive controller, preferably with a guage that looks good in the cabin. That AEM v2 plastic thing with the knobs is awful, and I don't want to mount it under the hood, I want to see any warnings right away.
Thanks for reading
Bumper
im not sure if my "build" thread has it , but I did do AEM WMI 2 years ago. It was awesome I did it for 10k miles and my valves look the same as when I installed it. I removed it though just because i wanted to try ethanol mix...way better IMO.
 

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I have 2 alky systems on my ecoboost.
I have 200,000 on my trucks so ping term it’s great. Plus I can run straight meth without any issues with the pump. My car has had it since new in 16 with no issues. Controller in the glove box. And I have two small lights hidden. One goes green when working red if problem and the second is red for tank fluid low. A bit pricey but I like mine. 100 percent meth will be the cure for bad gas and super easy to tune for.
 

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I have the aquamist kit on mine, with the gauge pod on the left side vent that shows if its on and flow. stratified tuned mine on crappy 90 octane alaska gas.
 

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@mert34, really interested in what parts you have installed overall and how the meth works in the winter (do you need less?).

I only have access to 91 octane. I was also looking at Stratified for a tune. I want to use an etune and meth along with an intercooler, cat back, high flow air filter, induction elbow, colder plugs and maybe a waste gate actuator. Maybe a bpv to hold the higher boost.

Are you using your washer bottle for the meth?

Where is your injection nozzle placed?

Also wondering if the straight meth is damaging to any seals, gaskets or plastic intake components.

I have the aquamist kit on mine, with the gauge pod on the left side vent that shows if its on and flow. stratified tuned mine on crappy 90 octane alaska gas.
 

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Well meth works very well in winter never had an issue with my truck. Also straight meth doesn’t hurt anything. I’m over 200,000 on my truck with straight meth. I would also save your money on the intercooler as meth will give you the cooler I take temps you want. In fact it will do better than an intercooler.
 

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Thanks Snox801. Good to know. We use Methanol at work sometimes to de-ice frozen air lines and it gets hard on seals. Actually destroys them if too much is used and left too long.

As for the intercooler Alex at Stratified recommended an upgrade along with Meth. I figured one or the other would be fine.

I really like what Livernois is doing to tune but having to travel 12 hours away and stay 4 days to tune is just not practical for me. An etune is much more preferable. Thus why I'm looking at Stratified. I emailed Alex and he recommended a waste gate actuator and intercooler. Both parts I feel I don't need to reach my 400ish WHP goal. But what do I know. Meth gives a major advantage in advancing timing and thus avoiding knock as well cleaning intake valves. If I tune I will go with meth injection for sure.

I want feedback from as many different 91 etuned RS owners and if I can find them, 91/meth etuned RS owners as well. I like hearing people's different setups, tuners and results.
 

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Yes in your shoes I think the e tune is the way to go and Alex is good.
I don’t have any of the upgraded stuff some recommend and I’m over 500whp and it hold fine. I do have to say that I would be careful with straight meth in some systems. Alky has been made for straight meth so no issues long term with system and the Ford parts seem to be fine. I think because you are really not using a crazy amount of it and it gets used pretty quick after the spray.
 

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Most. One with pretty good instructions. You can view them online before buying. To make it easier you can use a spacers that is already threaded for meth. Although I would like it farther away as in closer to the ic of running water and meth.
 

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From what I've read a water meth system should inject right at the outlet of the intercooler. A straight meth system should inject right before the intake manifold.

Snox801, where did you mount your pump?
What is the control factor for your meth spray?
 

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My pump is mounted behind the front number passages side. You have to really dig to see it.
My flow is controlled by the nozzle size and the system is progressing. I really don’t think the system needs to be progressive. Mainly because if it’s spraying at higher boost you want a decent amount. Only my RS is progressive to help save some meth. As the e85 takes care of octane. So we slowed it down. My truck would has had no issues not being progressive and I really can’t tell the difference.
You are correct on placement. Water will absorb more heat than meth but take a much longer time frame. My belief is in a setup like a car that meth is king. Ive always gotten lower ait with straight meth over water meth. I just don’t think it has enough time to absorb heat like meth.
 

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Will see if this posts correctly.
@mert34, really interested in what parts you have installed overall and how the meth works in the winter (do you need less?). Currently, Intake, BPV, Wastegate, Downpipe, catback, intercooler pipes. and probably some more I'm missing. I run it year round same mixture.

I only have access to 91 octane. I was also looking at Stratified for a tune. I want to use an etune and meth along with an intercooler, cat back, high flow air filter, induction elbow, colder plugs and maybe a waste gate actuator. Maybe a bpv to hold the higher boost.

Are you using your washer bottle for the meth?
No, i have a aquamist baffled tank mounted in the back hatch area along with the pump. i did not want to reuse existing containers.

Where is your injection nozzle placed?
Before the throttle body, two nozzles
Also wondering if the straight meth is damaging to any seals, gaskets or plastic intake components.
 

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Thanks mert34! So no intercooler upgrade? Snox said no need for one with meth as well.
 

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You. An so an upgrade for sure but when full throttle you will not get colder I take temps than you will with meth. So it won’t hurt but also not needed cause the meth will cool the charge better than the intercooler.
 

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You. An so an upgrade for sure but when full throttle you will not get colder I take temps than you will with meth. So it won’t hurt but also not needed cause the meth will cool the charge better than the intercooler.
What happens when our thin IC gets heatsoaked? WMI by itself is probably enough for a spirited daily in cooler climates, but in socal you can feel the car start bogging due to the heat after just a few pulls. WMI can only scrub so much heat from the charge, so as the IC gets heat soaked and starts feeding hotter air, the meth can't keep the temps as low.

An example with some arbitrary numbers. Say meth can drop temps by 10%, and the air passing through the IC is normally around 100, your charge temp should be 90. Now your IC gets heatsoaked and is pushing air that's 130, meth is only get
 

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Not an RS, but in my other turbo car I have an electronic guage which can display IAT.
On a hot summer Sydney day say 100F, i get heat soak pretty quickly driving in traffic with IAT easily exceeding 130F. Soon as i hit vacumn and the wmi (50/50) kicks in the IAT drops into the 60s and would go even lower but i have to back off as 450rwkw. You can feel the difference in power with the cooler IAT.
 

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Not an RS, but in my other turbo car I have an electronic guage which can display IAT.
On a hot summer Sydney day say 100F, i get heat soak pretty quickly driving in traffic with IAT easily exceeding 130F. Soon as i hit vacumn and the wmi (50/50) kicks in the IAT drops into the 60s and would go even lower but i have to back off as 450rwkw. You can feel the difference in power with the cooler IAT.
Is it the same after multiple hard pulls, or does the temp slowly creep up? This also doesn't dispute that the temps may be even lower with a non-heatsoked IC. Your area is even hotter than mine, so I have no doubt you would see the gains from an upgraded intercooler, especially if you track the car.
 

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Every intercooler will heatsoak. Most come from the same factories and really the only difference in the end tanks.
All you need is an intercooler that will flow enough for your intended power level. No intercooler will cool like wmi, I mean you can get significantly lower iat thsn ambient. If your in a hot environment it makes a massive difference - forgetting engine and power benefits.
If you have loads of cash buy a flashy ic and wmi. If your on a budget consider where the benefit really lies. Either way you will need a tune to match.
 
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