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Discussion Starter #1
There is one wheel lock key shipped with the car, and a card that references what lock key/set is installed. Make sure you have both of these in your possession, and order a new set (or remove them) if you don't have either piece, because if you lose the other one later you are in for an unhappy journey. Or, if a shop, say, loses your wheel lock key...

I bought mine lightly used with 3000 miles on it from a dealer, and the lock card is nowhere to be found - thought it was part of the literature pack but apparently the item I though was the code is for something else.

The dealer (in Canada at least) does not have access to any system that will allow them to look up the corresponding code by VIN or any other detail of the vehicle. A picture of the lock and a guess at matching, ordering several keys, is the best bet. This will take weeks and lots of money in key sets.

My dealer managed to remove the locks without a key, after warning me of possible wheel damage as an outcome. The wheel locks on this car are rather unique, and on the factory wheels there is effectively zero clearance around the lock in the lug well. Normal techniques like hammering an old socket on are not feasible. I would have done it myself if I could have. The quickest technique is apparently to drill out the stud from behind the wheel, then buy a new hub, press out the studs from the new hub, and reinstall them on the existing hubs. Studs are not sold independently by Ford at this time. I'm sure there are aftermarket options but it's still no fun, and the hub is only $45CAD.

I'm very unhappy. I can't prove the other shop lost the key, as they claim they didn't need to remove the wheels for the work they did (wheel well liner crack repair), so they aren't gonna pay for this. Dealer who sold the car (and is doing the service) is being helpful on the now significant labour charges because they agree the situation is ridiculous, but it's still a lot of hours plus some parts. Plus a new wheel lock set if you want to repeat the pain all over again in the future, or $10/lug bolt for non-locking.

I'd attach a picture of the code card so you can check yours, but obviously I don't have it...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Damn, wish I'd found that thread before this debacle. The terms "wheel lock", "lock card", "lock" didn't exactly surface it at the top of the results, but I did see a lot of threads about what people had done to their whip that weekend :)

Not sure the Canadian service would be as rapid but would have been a lot less painful.

For the record, the factory wheel locks are pretty effective. You can pry the cap off of them but you'll still need to be pretty creative to get the actual lug off. I wouldn't sweat wheel theft if you're using them. The replacement locks linked in that post look thin, so are probably pretty easy to pop off with a 12-point socket, a breaker bar, and a mallet. If you need the wheel locks, you probably want to make sure they are effective. I don't tend to park in areas that require them, so they are just in the way for track days and seasonal swaps. Not going to miss them. Full set of replacement lugs arrived in mail today, just in time (aka a day too late)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It should be in the ziplock the lock is in, in the hatch.
If you have a ziploc, with a key, and a card, you're three pieces ahead of me right now :) When I got the car, the key was loose in the glove box. Also, I have a tow hook, a funnel, some sealant, and a compressor under the trunk floor - wonder if I'm missing anything else relevant. There's a few blank spots in the foam I've wondered about.

Put the card somewhere safe!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update: ignore the advice about re-pressing studs into rear hubs - it won't work.

They are now at 10 hours labour and replacing both rear hub/bearings, and I expect they will soon call to say they have to do the fronts as well because that also won't work. I'm utterly flabbergasted. Went from 2 hours labour to this insanity in no time. Will be escalating to Ford Canada - losing a wheel lock key should not cost $2000 and counting...

Really wish I'd found that McGard thread :(
 

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Nope, that should be it. That's how my car was delivered from the truck as far as I know since the protective covers were still on the car when I first asked my dealer about it. I use the extra spots for storage of microfibers and cleaning supplies.

Also, I have a tow hook, a funnel, some sealant, and a compressor under the trunk floor - wonder if I'm missing anything else relevant. There's a few blank spots in the foam I've wondered about.
 

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If you have a ziploc, with a key, and a card, you're three pieces ahead of me right now :) When I got the car, the key was loose in the glove box. Also, I have a tow hook, a funnel, some sealant, and a compressor under the trunk floor - wonder if I'm missing anything else relevant. There's a few blank spots in the foam I've wondered about.

Put the card somewhere safe!
Everything was thrown in the passenger footwell when my car came off the transporter. Mats, manuals, ziplock with key, etc.. You have everything in the hatch, there are spare cubbies.
 

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My wife got a 2015 Sonata late last year and when I went to rotate the tires a couple of weeks ago, I discovered the idiots at the dealership had tightened the lug nuts to well over 250 ft/lbs. A 1/2" air gun wouldnt break them loose. Then I stripped out the wheel lock key when trying to use a breaker bar. The car didn't come with the card and the dealer couldn't help so I drove a socket onto the locks with a hammer and at first the socket started to spin on the lock but it ended up biting and breaking the locks loose with a loud pop. Ridiculous. So for anyone in that situation, driving a socket onto them was a viable solution for me.
 

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I purposely took the card out of the package and placed it with all the paperwork for the car in my safe. I also ordered a second one just in case. It should be here soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I drove a socket onto the locks with a hammer and at first the socket started to spin on the lock but it ended up biting and breaking the locks loose with a loud pop. Ridiculous. So for anyone in that situation, driving a socket onto them was a viable solution for me.
This is not a feasible solution on the RS, with the clearance between the 19" wheels and the very wide wheel locks that come with these cars being ~1mm. No socket is going to fit around the key to hammer it on, and not simultaneously get hung up in the lug well.

The real solution is, call McGard, send them a picture of your key, and wait for a replacement. Don't try anything else as it will all end in tears.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update: Final parts tally:
2x rear wheel hub/bearing assemblies
2x front wheel hub/bearing assemblies
4x new lug nuts
14-16h labor

I'm by no means paying that full bill, but apparently (this may be BS from the service manager) this is the recommended approach from Ford tech line to address a lost wheel lock key with no code for an RS.

They also called McGard and confirmed that with a picture they would have likely been able to get a new key, and will do that next time.

Take care. At least I have some shiny new parts out of this, though the old ones were working just fine!

Don't know how you guys survived while the head gasket nonsense was going on... this was enough to make me blow my own gasket!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
QQ as follow-up, still working with Ford and dealership over this nonsense.

Does anyone have a sample of their wheel lock code card? If so, is there more to it than a 5 digit code and a barcode? I obviously don't need your code, just the format and types of information on it, eg does it look anything like an image like so , or something totally different?

The key magically reappeared after the fact, so now I have a key back :) but it's of little solace now after the challenges I had.

Also found this guy later, apparently there are only 7 combinations of keys for the RS? Master set $800USD? Can't verify but seems quite plausible.
 

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QQ as follow-up, still working with Ford and dealership over this nonsense.

Does anyone have a sample of their wheel lock code card? If so, is there more to it than a 5 digit code and a barcode? I obviously don't need your code, just the format and types of information on it, eg does it look anything like an image like so , or something totally different?

The key magically reappeared after the fact, so now I have a key back
but it's of little solace now after the challenges I had.

Also found this guy later, apparently there are only 7 combinations of keys for the RS? Master set $800USD? Can't verify but seems quite plausible.
From what I know there is 7. My friend has the same wheel lock code as me his car was also built the same month as mine. But a couple of other people I know have different ones but I have only encountered 7 different ones.
 

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Found everything in the glovebox. The sales lady probably put it there during delivery and I had forgotten. Thank you thread starter for making me look.
 
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