Ford Focus RS Forum banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
2016 Focus RS
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2016 focus rs used in april. All mods were done prior to me owning it. It hasnt ran right since I bought it. It would drive on its face anytime you get on it. I was told it was a bad tune. Had it tuned and had a few more things done while it was at the tuner/machanic- clutch replaced (bolts on the internals had backed out and caused damage), front seal and cover replaced, and crankshaft pulley replaced (for the third time). Car ran amazing for two days minus dying if you came to a quick stop. Mechanic said it was because of the cam we have in it. Seemed odd but trusted him. On day two I was doing a pull and the car went I to limp mode and said the car was overheated even though AP and temp gage said everything was fine. Took the car to the machanic again and he said the pulley had shifted slightly, fixed it and sent us on our way.
Car continues to die on any quick stops, wont build over 26 psi boost and then started throwing codes randomly and staying in limp mode (p0456-evaporarive emissions system leak, p0011-camshaft position timing over advanced bank 1, p04db- no description, p061b-internal control module torqe calculation performance, p0229-turbocharger/supercharger A underboost condition) The idle is rough and it now will not stay running unless moving.
I dont know where to start on looking for the problem and I am starting to not trust my mechanic.
Anyone got any ideas on the problem?

Build list:
Diamond 87.5mm Piston Set

Manly Turbo Tuff I-Beam Rods with ARP 625+ Rod Bolts

King Racing Rod and Main Bearings

Massive Speed Key'd Crank and Gear

Massive Speed Balance Shaft Delete with Oil Baffle

ARP Crank Bolts

Focus RS 2.3 Cylinder Head, Pocket Ported & Polished

Decked Surface Valve Job

Piper Stage 3 Cams with Upgraded Springs and Valve Seats, w/16 Degree Exhaust VCT Limiter

ARP 625+ Head Studs

OEM 2.0 Head Gasket

ETS Turbo Kit with Garrett GTX3076 Gen2 Turbo

External 40mm TiAL Waste Gates, #16 Spring Pressure with External Dumps

High-Flow ETS Downpipe w/ Cat

ETS Performance Exhaust w/ Resonator

ETS 4" Intercooler

ETS Charge Pipes with TiAL Q Blow-Off Valve

4" ETS Intake

Radium Catch Can, PVC Baffle Plate, Auxiliary Fuel Rail Kit, and Radium Surge Tank with Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump

1050x Injectors in Auxiliary Fuel Kit w/ Split Second Fuel Controller

Centerforce DYAD DS Clutch

Fuel It Bluetooth Ethanol Content Sensor Accessible via Phone App

Fully Built Transmission from Jacks Transmissions

Carbon Synchros

Wavetrac LSD

WPC Coated Bearings

Motul Multi-DTCF Fluid
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,682 Posts
Paging @lucky phil, curious to see what he has to add to this scenario.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,357 Posts
Paging @lucky phil, curious to see what he has to add to this scenario.
Goodness where do you start? looks like a pretty comprehensive build sheet there. I see you have a keyed crank which should mean you also have a keyed crank pulley as well? Is this the case? as i cant see how the "pulley moved a little" thereby throwing off the ignition and cam timing or have they keyed the crank and kept the std friction drive pulley which would be dumb or do you have an adjustable crank pulley? Once the pulley moves you need to completely do the cam timing again AND replace the friction drive washers on the crank ( if you're doing the job right) which means the front cover off and the cam drive apart and even the oil pump drive off. Once that pulley moves its a major head **** and a lot of work.
It sounds like to me the cam timing might be wrong and/or as we found out with Mxers built engine sometimes the standard VCT system/VCT cam drive units dont like "performance" cams and need to be locked mechanically in some cases.In his case it was a rattling issue more than a running issue though but you never know. The cam position sensor pickup rings need to be checked also as there have been cases of them moving when I suspect the mechanic uses a screw driver on them to hold the cams. There is also a particular methodology to fitting the cam drive and torquing up the VCT drive bolts that's not fully explained in the manual.
You need a mechanic that's a gun on these or the Mazda variant with regards to the mechanical stuff. There's a lot of small but important techniques to assembling these engines that lots of experience on them give you.
Then you need a good Tuner and it's rare to get someone that's great at both.

Ciao

EDIT....OK I see you have the VCT limiter on the exhaust cam.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top