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There are a couple of how-to videos for installing a BOV/BPV. But, if you purchase a Turbosmart BOV/BPV, you receive a Boost Reference Adapter (BRA). There is one video that I found, but I wanted to give folks a little more step-by-step.

Tools:
Needle nose pliers
Flathead screwdriver
8mm open wrench
4.5 mm allen wrench
Ratchet
8mm socket
7mm socket
6mm socket
Butane torch or lighter

Optional:
Needle nose vice
Rubber cap
Plumber's tape
Breaker bar or 24" wooden rod
Rubber mallet
Soft cloth
Dental floss or strong string

Start by opening the hood and removing the plastic engine cover. Using the 8mm socket, remove the bolt that secures the intake elbow to the engine (the intake section with the RS logo). Loosen the clamp that connects the intake elbow to the second intake pipe using the 7mm socket (or flathead screwdriver). Using the same 7mm socket, loosen the clamp that secures the "RS" intake elbow to the rubber (or silicone if aftermarket) intake coupler. Separate the small rubber hose that runs behind the intake elbow (one point has a rubber grommet and the other rests in a hose clip). Remove the intake elbow. You can now see the stock boost hose which is connected to the boost solenoid on top of the engine.


Stock boost hose to solenoid.jpg


Using the needle nose pliers, compress the hose clamp and gently remove the boost hose from the hard line. You may have use needle nose vice grips to keep the clamp open while using the regular pliers to twist and pull the hose off. Repeat this step for the hose end connected to the boost solenoid. At this point you can cap the port on the solenoid. I opted for a rubber cap, but you can snip the stock hose and use the provided Turbosmart black hose plug.


Boost solenoid capped.jpg


Now we can move down to the PCV hose. The stock hose connects to the left of the throttlebody. Using a flathead screwdriver or hook tool, press the top of the white part of the clip. Pull to the left to disconnect the clip. If it fights you, use long needle nose pliers or another flathead to pry it off. (sorry for the fuzzy image, my camera kept focusing on the background)


Stock TB to PCV connector.jpg


With the connector off, we now need to remove the hose that is attached to the PCV. This hose is harder than most, so I used a small butane torch to heat up the plastic. Holding the PCV valve in one hand and the hard hose in the other, twist and pull with medium strength to remove the hose.


Stock PCV hose.jpg


Now the PCV is ready to be connected to the new BRA hose.


PCV.jpg


We need to prep the BRA for installation and use. Screw the supplied BRA barbed ports in to the BRA. I put a little bit of plumber's tape to ensure a good seal. Tighten using a 8mm open wrench. Using the 4.5mm allen wrench, plug the center hole on the BRA with the supplied stubby allen screw. I could only get a couple of turns on it, but it does go in.


BRA with nipples.jpg


Using the supplied long rubber boost hose, route it along the path from where the BRA will connect to the TB PCV port to on top of the engine. Leave enough hose sticking out of the bottom to allow for you to work on the the BRA and the hose.


BRA boost hose path.jpg


Take one of the supplied silver hose clamps and place it on the end of the boost hose that will attach to the BRA. Slide the hose on to the left port (with the BRA opening facing away from you), place the clamp in the proper spot using needle nose pliers.


BRA boost hose.jpg


Now, grab the fatter, shorter supplied boost hose (the one with the red center) and slide it on to the other BRA port. Put the supplied worm gear clamp on this connection and tighten with a 6mm socket or flathead screwdriver.


BRA PCV hose.jpg


Place the BRA on the TB PCV port. This will give you a general idea of where the BRA rests and you can now run the smaller boost hose along your desired path to ultimately connect to the hard boost line.


BRA loose on TB.jpg


You will have excess hose, so cut the hose where it will slide on to the hard line. Use a supplied silver hose clamp and place it in the proper spot with needle nose pliers. Looks like stock, right?!?


BRA boost hose connected.jpg


Take the BRA off the TB PCV port and slide the fat boost hose on to the barbed PCV port. Put the BRA back on to the TB PCV port. Get ready for the fun! The BRA does not slide on to the TB port very easily...at least it did not for me. I used a breaker bar with a cloth wrapped around the end (to prevent damaging the BRA) and tapped it on with a rubber mallet. See below (I took this pic without the cloth so you can see the BRA).


BRA with breaker bar.jpg


After a few taps, check the placement of the BRA in relation to the retaining lip of the TB PCV port. Once you have the lip past the the BRA slits, you can move on to the next step.


BRA seated on TB.jpg


Take the supplied retaining clip and tie some string or dental floss around it. Tie the other end around an adjacent hose or anchor point. This will prevent the clip from being lost in the abyss if you drop it...which will most likely happen.


BRA retaining clip with string.jpg


Slip the retaining clip on to the TB PCV port through the BRA slit. Have fun with this part!! Cursing is allowed.


BRA with retaining clip.jpg



Use a razor to cut the string or floss off. Put the PCV hose back in it's holder clip at the corner of the engine. Reassemble the intake elbow. Place the engine cover back on...or not, it's your choice!


Now, drive it like you stole it! Or go out for a gingerly test drive to ensure all connections are good...that's probably the smarter of the two.
 

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Nice how to, but i'm prety sure the retaining clip is not supposed to go like this.

the red circle part of the clip is supposed to go over the red circle part of the BRA
BRA retaining clip with string.jpg
BRA with retaining clip.jpg
 

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So, does that black rubber plug is included in the BRA kit?, I always have issues finding that kind of plugs
 

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Me, being the complete and absolute idiot that I am didn't fully remove the clip off of the TB PCV port and ended up snapping off the end of it. Is there any way to replace this part or am I absolutely SOL?
 

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Great photos and help. Had installed a dual port turbosmart without doing the BRA. Drove me crazy by venting to atmosphere on the highway with very little throttle. Installed the BRA and works much better.
 

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Thanks for this. Installed my Turbosmart BOV 3 days ago and like others, mine was opening during cruising. Was debating on putting the OEM back in but after reading a bunch, I decided on the BRA. I had trouble with the white clip that is close to the throttle body. Broke it taking it off.

Also, I removed the MAP sensor that's close by the throttle body in order to make more room for my hands. Screw came out and I pulled the sensor off (it was tight). When putting it back on, I noticed it doesn't seat back on that great. Even when pushed back on fully and screwed in, the unit doesn't make a 100% flat seal. Did I mess something up? Took the car around the block and no alarms/codes.

Nervous!!
 

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Cant view the photos... very confusing install , is there an install vid step by step out there?? Or does the OP have the pics still ? Thanks
 

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Cant view the photos... very confusing install , is there an install vid step by step out there?? Or does the OP have the pics still ? Thanks
Same here, I can't see any pictures...
 

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I just did this install last weekend, this video was super helpful.

The install itself is actually super simple, and had I not been looking at the instructions but instead at that video, I could have finished in a quarter of the time. Also, TurboSmart no longer supplies the long hose going from the BRA back to the top of the engine, or the plug for the sensor. I had to go to a local auto parts store for those.
 

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I just did this install last weekend, this video was super helpful.

The install itself is actually super simple, and had I not been looking at the instructions but instead at that video, I could have finished in a quarter of the time. Also, TurboSmart no longer supplies the long hose going from the BRA back to the top of the engine, or the plug for the sensor. I had to go to a local auto parts store for those.
I know they don’t supply the hose but which plug are you talking about? Are you talking about the one that you use to plug the hose from the 3 point solenoid? Also does the hose that connects to the bov also connect to the hard line? And then does the line that was originally connected to the bov go to the bra? Gunna install tomorrow just couldn’t get my head around this one
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@Madokami I also used that video to help me with the install. Since he didn't get any close up shots or show any progression, I figured my documentation would close the gap.
@Hoonigan any idea as to why the pics aren't showing? The images were uploaded to the forum, so they should still be on the server.
 

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@Stiletto

This has been a issue over the past few days. Hoping for a solution from @ffsuper shortly.
 
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Yes, that one. I bought a plug for it.

I know they don’t supply the hose but which plug are you talking about? Are you talking about the one that you use to plug the hose from the 3 point solenoid?
The BRA has three openings. It has two barbs and a plug. You can plug the three in any order you wish but they way I've seen it done and worked for me was to plug the center, and use the barbs on the opposite ends.

The hard line from the check valve is removed, and replaced with the supplied hose. It goes to one of the barbs in the BRA. The other barb is where you connect the hose you purchase, and it boes back up and through the engine bay up to the hose you disconnected under the air intake. If you pause the video at 1:29, you can see what I mean.

Also does the hose that connects to the bov also connect to the hard line? And then does the line that was originally connected to the bov go to the bra? Gunna install tomorrow just couldn’t get my head around this one
@Stiletto Your guide was actually more helpful than the video, but since the longer vaccum hose was no longer supplied, I quickly got confused and had to look up the video guide to see if I was missing anything.
PS going over your directions again, I realized I also put the retaining clip in on the wrong spot. Have you moved yours since the install?
 

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Can anyone help me out , I was just told by Adam at tune plus that my Maptap that I used for the Cpe exhale kit and BOV won't work well for being accurate with intake temps. Could read up to 30 degrees hotter then actually is , he said. Won't tune my car with it. I need to get rid of the maptap and run a boost reference adapter to the tial q bov. Do I use the left port to just put the rubber hose to my BOV? Since stock bov location is no longer being used? Or do I need to do something different? The boost solenoid I'll cap off and the hard boost line cap off too?
 
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