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The big thread is big. My HG (full head and hg replacement) recall work was done June 2018. Everything was fine until about a month ago when I got an oil change done and noticed small oil leak. Put the car into the stealer on Monday. Today I received a call from the service writer (I know the Senior Master Tech working on my car this week as he did the recall work last year) and was told two leaks both stemming from this oil line to the turbo. Said it was leaking in two places "above and below" whatever that means. I know a bunch of people have had to deal with this. So my question is to those who've had to deal with this line. Did they fix yours? My service guy said everything was checked, bolts, crush washers, etc, and all were in spec when the recall work was done. I think I remember someone having this line replaced with all associated hardware only for it to happen again. I want to see if I can get some reassurance from owners who had this happen, had it fixed with no further issues. I'm definitely worried. Only mod is exhaust so far because of this kind of thing. It's why I haven't replaced the bolt ons and tuned it. TIAFAR.
 

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well, being the resident leak expert here on the forum, I have successfully fixed said leak. I'm unsure of why it would be leaking from above (where the line connects to the turbo) and below (where the line connects to the block). it seems as though there might be another leak that's making it look like that, but i digress. the oil feed line has been updated, and should've been replaced with the HG fix. If it wasn't updated with the correct part number, then that may be the problem. If it was... it's a cheap part ($50) and if you're comfortable with removing your intake and passenger side wheel, it's pretty easy to install yourself, but it seems like you're still under warranty, so whatever.

honestly, and more often than not, it's the front cover that leaks. and depending on the size/position of the leak, i could see oil getting in both spots (definitely on the part of the line that connects to the block). a photo, if you can acquire one, would give me a more accurate point of reference though.
 

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I have something similar going on... but have been "SENDING IT" for 15K-20K+ miles now, with mostly full bolt-on's (added Front Mount in May 2019). I did spill some oil while doing my oil change, so when I had the car on the lift and had noticed oil on the rear-passenger side of the motor, I cleaned up the oil after tightening the Oil Line. This was around February this year, I believe, that I had noticed.

3 weekends ago, I had the car on the lift doing Sway Bars and End Links, and the oil build up was there again, rear-passenger side of motor. Cleaned up again, but didn't do anything else to try and attempt fixing it. It does look like it's still coming from the Turbo Oil Line. I want to confirm this is the case, sooner than later though.

The fact you are saying people have had their whole Oil Line replaced and it still happens, gives me some level of peace of mind. But, considering I have been driving the car pretty hard for 15K+ miles at least and everything I monitor on my AccessPort looks to par, I haven't been too bothered to pursue it further.

Plus, I am starting to save $, after these next two months, just in case something does happen... I don't want to go built/stroked TS 2.0 block, carbon synchro's in transmission, big turbo, aux fuel just yet... or even for 3+ years at this point... but if I have to earlier, then so be it.
 

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@cornerexit Have you seen the other posts mentioning oil leaks after HG recall? Mine was similar to the oil leak "from the top" which turned out to be coming from the valve cover (due to insufficient sealant being applied and/or at the wrong location). I did notice this leak almost immediately after the recall was done. Could it be possible the leak "from below" is just due to the top leak?
 

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^^^Agree with above. Tried the crush washer turbo bolt twice, also oIL line once. Ultimately came down to resealing HG cover properrly with proper sealant to fix it. It is relatively straight forward, just is an inconvenience to have to redo the sealing. No problem after 2k miles with resealing.
 

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well, being the resident leak expert here on the forum, I have successfully fixed said leak. I'm unsure of why it would be leaking from above (where the line connects to the turbo) and below (where the line connects to the block). it seems as though there might be another leak that's making it look like that, but i digress. the oil feed line has been updated, and should've been replaced with the HG fix. If it wasn't updated with the correct part number, then that may be the problem. If it was... it's a cheap part ($50) and if you're comfortable with removing your intake and passenger side wheel, it's pretty easy to install yourself, but it seems like you're still under warranty, so whatever.

honestly, and more often than not, it's the front cover that leaks. and depending on the size/position of the leak, i could see oil getting in both spots (definitely on the part of the line that connects to the block). a photo, if you can acquire one, would give me a more accurate point of reference though.
Good info. Didn't realize the Oil Line had been updated. Will look into this.

Actually had my Pops (Master/Head Diesel Tech at a Ford Dealership) look at my leak and he pinpointed it to the Oil Line going into Turbo. It'd be spectacular if just swapping in the updated Oil Line remedies this.
 

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My car has been in the shop for 3 weeks as of today for an oil leak. I didn't see any above the braided oil line/banjo bolt, but after they had had the car for about a week they decided I needed a new head and gasket. HG recall was done in May 2018. Car currently only has 9400 miles on it. Hopefully I will get it back in the next day or 2 and I will see what the exact work order says.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
@cornerexit Have you seen the other posts mentioning oil leaks after HG recall? Mine was similar to the oil leak "from the top" which turned out to be coming from the valve cover (due to insufficient sealant being applied and/or at the wrong location). I did notice this leak almost immediately after the recall was done. Could it be possible the leak "from below" is just due to the top leak?
I just read them. Seems the majority of the time this has nothing to do with the oil lines to/from the turbo. I would have thought dye in the oil would point this out.
 

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I just read them. Seems the majority of the time this has nothing to do with the oil lines to/from the turbo. I would have thought dye in the oil would point this out.
it's such an inconsistent leak. anytime i was trying to fix my leaks, I'd let it idle on the lift for 30-45 minutes, not a drip. sit with the throttle at 3k for minutes at a time, nothing. take it for a drive around the block, dry as a bone. Drive it 30 minutes home, boom, oil ****ing everywhere.
 

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Same thing. I have an 18 with no headgasket replacement. Had the leak at the banjo bolt. I told them to look at the front cover as people kept reporting here and on FB. They put dye in and a couple hundred miles later they said it was the washers. They did not replace the line. What is the new turbo line part number for when I bring it back?
 

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@iIDiavel what washers are you referring to? I'm keeping notes on leak locations if I do have issues in the future but not clear on where "at the washers" are.

Same thing. I have an 18 with no headgasket replacement. Had the leak at the banjo bolt. I told them to look at the front cover as people kept reporting here and on FB. They put dye in and a couple hundred miles later they said it was the washers. They did not replace the line. What is the new turbo line part number for when I bring it back?
 

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@iIDiavel what washers are you referring to? I'm keeping notes on leak locations if I do have issues in the future but not clear on where "at the washers" are.
The copper washers on the banjo bolt for the turbo line was replaced. Of course replacing those didn't work. Still leaking, but maybe not as bad? It's so hard to tell.

The second time I brought it in after the dye was added the tech did show me where he had seen it leak on the front cover, and mine wasn't leaking there. I've put a snake cam up into the engine bay to inspect, but it's still to hard to see where it's coming from.

I'm not losing a measurable amount of oil that I can tell, but I don't drive much since I work from home. I've probably put more track miles on this summer than driving miles. I have 5.7k miles total.
 

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it's such an inconsistent leak. anytime i was trying to fix my leaks, I'd let it idle on the lift for 30-45 minutes, not a drip. sit with the throttle at 3k for minutes at a time, nothing. take it for a drive around the block, dry as a bone. Drive it 30 minutes home, boom, oil ****ing everywhere.
The tech on my car is solid. He told the service manager, upon me picking it up after HG recall “If can even tell I worked on his car I will kiss his ass.” Met the guy and talked to him myself. Good guy, he was joking about that but dead serious on the quality of his work. Senior Master Tech. Service writer did say when he is done with the work, tech will put on 10 or so miles, then re-check on the lift. This guy takes pride in his work.

My frustration with this is I’ve never dealt with taking my car back multiple times for something like this. Coming from a long number of Japanese cars, never a serious issue to deal with. Already went through the drinking coolant, recall bs, now something else with the engine. I didn’t buy it to keep it stock either. I was at least smart enough to leave it alone, sans cat back (no tune or other bolt ones), for this very reason. But I’ve wanted to tune it since I got it because I know once there are a few bolt ons and a decent tune it’ll be what I always wanted. Had a 2008 STi hatch that was tuned, coil overs, loved it sans the understeering nature of it. The RS is like it married to my AP2. I drove a brand new SS 1LE tonight and when I left the Chevy dealership it made me love the RS more. The SS 1LE was like the last Mustang GT PP I drove. I just don’t like large cars or heavy cars. There is nothing like the RS out there.

My dilemma is getting to where I no longer having confidence in this car. What finally solved your leaks?
 

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The tech on my car is solid. He told the service manager, upon me picking it up after HG recall “If can even tell I worked on his car I will kiss his ass.” Met the guy and talked to him myself. Good guy, he was joking about that but dead serious on the quality of his work. Senior Master Tech. Service writer did say when he is done with the work, tech will put on 10 or so miles, then re-check on the lift. This guy takes pride in his work.

My frustration with this is I’ve never dealt with taking my car back multiple times for something like this. Coming from a long number of Japanese cars, never a serious issue to deal with. Already went through the drinking coolant, recall bs, now something else with the engine. I didn’t buy it to keep it stock either. I was at least smart enough to leave it alone, sans cat back (no tune or other bolt ones), for this very reason. But I’ve wanted to tune it since I got it because I know once there are a few bolt ons and a decent tune it’ll be what I always wanted. Had a 2008 STi hatch that was tuned, coil overs, loved it sans the understeering nature of it. The RS is like it married to my AP2. I drove a brand new SS 1LE tonight and when I left the Chevy dealership it made me love the RS more. The SS 1LE was like the last Mustang GT PP I drove. I just don’t like large cars or heavy cars. There is nothing like the RS out there.

My dilemma is getting to where I no longer having confidence in this car. What finally solved your leaks?
I bought my first Ducati in 1985 and I've owned at least one (currently 2) since then. I accepted back at the beginning that to be happy owning a Ducati you needed to be able to do serious work on them. Some came from the factory OK and others needed a complete strip down and careful build from new. I did this to my first one, after a few thousand klms I completely stripped the engine and re assembled it properly. Thats what it took in those days to have a good engine that I was confident in. The Ducati Quality Control was pretty much non existent back then.
Fast fwd to now and the RS. What I see here focusing on the engine is something similar with more consistent quality but a design and manufacturing process thats closer to the edge with regards to acceptability. I can see that the machining on this engine has prioritized speed over total reliability of sealing. If Ford had accepted less units/hour machined we would have less engines leaking, simple as that. If they had keyed the crank we would have had less cam timing failures during the HG recall, simple as that.
So the answer hasn't changed in 35 years, If you want a really good engine in the RS there is a reasonable chance you'll need to strip it down and put it together properly even without serious modifications. I can fully understand that the overwhelming majority of owners dont have that kind of commitment but thats what it's going to take. My advice for the committed is, strip and machine,lightened and keyed crank,forged pistons,good quality rods,balance shaft delete, clean up the ports and an accurate valve job and a deck brace or liners as a nice to have option.
Its not going to be a power monster but it'll be tough and reliable and oil tight and well and truly capable of coping with a bit of a thrashing.

Ciao
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I bought my first Ducati in 1985 and I've owned at least one (currently 2) since then. I accepted back at the beginning that to be happy owning a Ducati you needed to be able to do serious work on them. Some came from the factory OK and others needed a complete strip down and careful build from new. I did this to my first one, after a few thousand klms I completely stripped the engine and re assembled it properly. Thats what it took in those days to have a good engine that I was confident in. The Ducati Quality Control was pretty much non existent back then.
Fast fwd to now and the RS. What I see here focusing on the engine is something similar with more consistent quality but a design and manufacturing process thats closer to the edge with regards to acceptability. I can see that the machining on this engine has prioritized speed over total reliability of sealing. If Ford had accepted less units/hour machined we would have less engines leaking, simple as that. If they had keyed the crank we would have had less cam timing failures during the HG recall, simple as that.
So the answer hasn't changed in 35 years, If you want a really good engine in the RS there is a reasonable chance you'll need to strip it down and put it together properly even without serious modifications. I can fully understand that the overwhelming majority of owners dont have that kind of commitment but thats what it's going to take. My advice for the committed is, strip and machine,lightened and keyed crank,forged pistons,good quality rods,balance shaft delete, clean up the ports and an accurate valve job and a deck brace or liners as a nice to have option.
Its not going to be a power monster but it'll be tough and reliable and oil tight and well and truly capable of coping with a bit of a thrashing.

Ciao
For the price we paid, I don’t think we should have to strip the motor down and do that. Subaru’s EJ, was much the same to what you just said and I got tired of it and sold my 2008 STi because of it. Stock motors would go boom, modded motors would go boom. It was always luck of the draw. People blame it on bad petrol, bad tunes, but I’m in good with a former Cobb tuning center, know the owner and even new stock EJ’s go boom. To have peace of mind you really need to put forged pistons in that motor and/or build it out. Way too much hassle and a financial burden. And if it’s your DD, no way.

I own and ride motorcycles as well. I spend more time on the track on 2 wheels than 4. Both of my sportbikes are S brick house reliable. My 1st gen crossplane is a model of rock solid reliability. A very reputable former AMA tuner did everything he could to try and blow one up on his Dyno and just gave up. The current one isn’t the same. Yamaha decided to compete in the HP wars (top end peak HP numbers) and lots of problems with the current gen motors. No interest. First and foremost for anything I own I need reliability. I don’t care if it’s a lawnmower, a literbike, a car or what. I miss the EVO more now. That motor, you could mod it and as long as you didn’t go to the moon with it, all damn day. I wish we had the same. I remember when Ford was stating they’d have mods available, factory approved tunes, these were factors in the purchase. They were unfulfilled, and I’m good with that. Just not good with a never ending finicky motor that will continue to leak oil. If my motor was high mileage I would accept it. Not with 6700 miles on the ODO. I tend to eliminate problems in my life, not walk with them hand in hand.
 

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For the price we paid, I don’t think we should have to strip the motor down and do that. Subaru’s EJ, was much the same to what you just said and I got tired of it and sold my 2008 STi because of it. Stock motors would go boom, modded motors would go boom. It was always luck of the draw. People blame it on bad petrol, bad tunes, but I’m in good with a former Cobb tuning center, know the owner and even new stock EJ’s go boom. To have peace of mind you really need to put forged pistons in that motor and/or build it out. Way too much hassle and a financial burden. And if it’s your DD, no way.

I own and ride motorcycles as well. I spend more time on the track on 2 wheels than 4. Both of my sportbikes are S brick house reliable. My 1st gen crossplane is a model of rock solid reliability. A very reputable former AMA tuner did everything he could to try and blow one up on his Dyno and just gave up. The current one isn’t the same. Yamaha decided to compete in the HP wars (top end peak HP numbers) and lots of problems with the current gen motors. No interest. First and foremost for anything I own I need reliability. I don’t care if it’s a lawnmower, a literbike, a car or what. I miss the EVO more now. That motor, you could mod it and as long as you didn’t go to the moon with it, all damn day. I wish we had the same. I remember when Ford was stating they’d have mods available, factory approved tunes, these were factors in the purchase. They were unfulfilled, and I’m good with that. Just not good with a never ending finicky motor that will continue to leak oil. If my motor was high mileage I would accept it. Not with 6700 miles on the ODO. I tend to eliminate problems in my life, not walk with them hand in hand.
I'm hearing you. I gave up on genuine quality many years ago I'm afraid. I get my satisfaction from enhancing and refining the package I can afford to buy. My DD is a Ford Kuga(Escape) 2 liter turbo petrol Titanium top of the range. Not a bad car for 45K here. I often look at the BMW X3 which is the equivalent and its about 90K but I dont think you would get twice the quality. If you did I'd consider one.

Ciao
 

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My dilemma is getting to where I no longer having confidence in this car. What finally solved your leaks?
it's not the car (well, it kinda is that car too), it's the build quality and the quality of those putting it together. I'm not knocking the dude who worked on your car, at all, but if the head gasket replacement was done, and the car had a leak afterwards... my money is on that. It's not hard to mess up the gasket sealer crap. What solved my issue... I bought a new head, new block, etc, etc, and put the mother****er together myself. (with the assistance of the service manual) granted, it's only been back on the road 3k miles, but not a drop of oil has spilled.
 

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I had the same issue. I was doing my oil change and noticed oil on the banjo bolt of the turbo oil feed line. Took it to the dealer, they did a dye test and turns out it was the HG. They admitted that the tech who initially did all the RS HG recalls said he forgot to put those extra slicone dots on one of the cars he did and it turns out that was mine. So full tear down and I assume that if there are updated parts for the oil feed line that I got those too.
 

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it's not the car (well, it kinda is that car too), it's the build quality and the quality of those putting it together. I'm not knocking the dude who worked on your car, at all, but if the head gasket replacement was done, and the car had a leak afterwards... my money is on that. It's not hard to mess up the gasket sealer crap. What solved my issue... I bought a new head, new block, etc, etc, and put the mother****er together myself. (with the assistance of the service manual) granted, it's only been back on the road 3k miles, but not a drop of oil has spilled.
I called the service writer again today and mentioned all this. Dye, timing cover, front cover, whatever needs to be checked. That there was an addendum to the HG recall that specifically stated silicon needed to be used on two distinct points of the HG to insure proper seal. And that this could easily cause oil to drip on the line to the turbo and the line from the turbo to the block. I was pretty adamant about it. I said hey, maybe it's the updated line that's the issue but history of this car favors it being the head as many owners have had that line replaced only to have it leak again because it's coming from the head. I was nice about the whole thing stating I just didn't want to have to bring it back yet again for this mess. They know I want to mod, tune, and truly enjoy the car. And I do. I was as nice as I could be. Told him I wasn't trying to tell the Senior Master Tech how to do his job, only that we are a bunch of nuts on here, and know the car inside and out, at least from a fault perspective. I'd love a new motor with the correct HG, and start over. I'm already sick of this S. It's ridiculous from a company this large. But I also know many GT350 owners Voodoo motors are burning oil and they aren't doing jack S about that either. It's common decency and customer retention to expect your 40 grand car to function properly. You speak or deal with them and they think you are a problem child because you nicely demand S be fixed properly and for good. It's very frustrating. I bought this car for permanence. It's got $3500 in clearbra and ceramic tint, a $1k exhaust, short shifter and bushings, and I've been in a hold pattern on an IC, charge piping, intake, wga, ssc, intake, recirc valve, Lichtfield dampers because I'm too afraid to f with it fearing coolant drinking and oil loss. I f'in love the thing but nothing is worth stress and aggravation. I mean it's not a 1k phone or computer. I know people who flip out on their refrigerator going out and having to buy a new one. This is 4 stacks of high society at play. And I've got over 5k invested on top of purchase price in protection, extra set of wheels, non-warranty affecting modifications. I would have invested a dime in this thing if I knew this is how it would play out. Hopefully they can fix it and fix it for good. I've just read of too many members with the car in the shop for months and months during their ownership duration from PTU issues, engine issues, part availability, etc. I drive a lot of cars, drove a '19 SS 1LE last night, have driven more 6 figure cars that I can count, and I can vouch for how special this chassis and drivetrain is, but like I said, not worth it if it's back and forth to the shop frequently. I'm trying to keep an open mind. I'd feel great if they called me and said "we looked at the head no issues, no leaks" or "we found what you are talking about with the silicone points and you're right".
 
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