[Tongue Twinster]

My car does not leak from any other area but this damn place.
It was fixed last week, I drove it hard for 45 minutes in 5-6th gear at 5000-6000 rpm and some droplets started showing up.
When my mechanic drove it for 1 hour in the same way there were zero oil spots.

Having purchased a cool endoscope, I identified some marks in the banjo bolt area.
I took the car back to the dealership this morning.
The car was checked today for 3 hours for part alignment, for any area that might not seat properly.
They used cameras, they used light between parts, they looked around and could not see any other places where it might leak from.

The used a dye and identified that the only place the leak happens is that stupid bolt.
I have new tubes, new crushers, new seals whatever you want to call them.
They used copper, they used other materials, same result.
I am going to order a different tube from Goodridge or my brake tube manufacturer but in the meantime, I am curious of the following :

What is your secret to fixing this?
Did you get creative? If yes how?

I am so close to fixing this car ...

Everyone is puzzled.
The guys from my dealership, the guys from a second dealership, and the guys from the Factory.
Well they pretend to be puzzled.

 

[nicklulu]

Other than proper torque... I dunno... Liquid teflon tape?
I've done this when I used to do oil pressure and oil temp:

 

[lucky phil]

My car does not leak from any other area but this damn place.
It was fixed last week, I drove it hard for 45 minutes in 5-6th gear at 5000-6000 rpm and some droplets started showing up.
When my mechanic drove it for 1 hour in the same way there were zero oil spots.

Having purchased a cool endoscope, I identified some marks in the banjo bolt area.
I took the car back to the dealership this morning.
The car was checked today for 3 hours for part alignment, for any area that might not seat properly.
They used cameras, they used light between parts, they looked around and could not see any other places where it might leak from.

The used a dye and identified that the only place the leak happens is that stupid bolt.
I have new tubes, new crushers, new seals whatever you want to call them.
They used copper, they used other materials, same result.
I am going to order a different tube from Goodridge or my brake tube manufacturer but in the meantime, I am curious of the following :

What is your secret to fixing this?
Did you get creative? If yes how?

I am so close to fixing this car ...

Everyone is puzzled.
The guys from my dealership, the guys from a second dealership, and the guys from the Factory.
Well they pretend to be puzzled.

Have they replaced the bolt and line? Have you inspected the sealing face on the turbo housing with a 10X glass? have you checked when you thread the banjo bolt into the turbo housing WITHOUT the line and fitting installed the banjo bolt threads in far enough and the banjo bolt isnt thread bound in the hole due to incorrect threading depth?If so then you need to crack check the turbo housing with a dye check kit. They are cheap to buy, easy to use and will detect hairline cracks the inexperienced eye wont see.Follow the instructions to the letter and at the very least it will eliminate the unlikely housing crack.
This is an image of a crack near a gearbox mount I was working on. See the fine red line. This was invisible to the naked eye and i kept grinding the crack out until a dye check no longer indicated. Then I did a weld repair.
Lastly the banjo fitting on the turbo virtually never leaks it's just the gathering point for leaks further above. It's also the easy convenient get the customer out of here while actually doing something fix.I think from memory there has been 1 report of a cracked turbo housing at the banjo fitting, most likely caused by over torquing the banjo bolt.

Ciao

 

[Tongue Twinster]

Thanks for the advice.
We are checking for micro fractures now.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Max]

My car does not leak from any other area but this damn place.
It was fixed last week, I drove it hard for 45 minutes in 5-6th gear at 5000-6000 rpm and some droplets started showing up.
When my mechanic drove it for 1 hour in the same way there were zero oil spots.

Having purchased a cool endoscope, I identified some marks in the banjo bolt area.
I took the car back to the dealership this morning.
The car was checked today for 3 hours for part alignment, for any area that might not seat properly.
They used cameras, they used light between parts, they looked around and could not see any other places where it might leak from.

The used a dye and identified that the only place the leak happens is that stupid bolt.
I have new tubes, new crushers, new seals whatever you want to call them.
They used copper, they used other materials, same result.
I am going to order a different tube from Goodridge or my brake tube manufacturer but in the meantime, I am curious of the following :

What is your secret to fixing this?
Did you get creative? If yes how?

I am so close to fixing this car ...

Everyone is puzzled.
The guys from my dealership, the guys from a second dealership, and the guys from the Factory.
Well they pretend to be puzzled.

First thing I would check would be if the dealership used the latest revision of the oil feed tube. There have now been 4 revisions. Latest Part number is EJ7Z-6K679-D I believe.

Second thing I would check is that the dealership replaced all the non-reusable components:
BB5Z-6C683-A Turbo boost pressure solenoid filter and W715323-S300 Turbo oil line o-ring.

Lastly, the service manual says that “ the rolled sealing washer goes on the turbocharger side of the banjo fitting, the flat sealing washer goes on the banjo bolt side”

 

[lflouie]

It appears that you and the service techs have done a thorough job of investigating and it boils down to the parts involved in the bolt to part connection.

FWIW I had a similar problem, but not identical. After 3 attempted repairs at 2 dealers, they finally concluded it was due to the wrong sealant used in the HG repair causing the problem. Replaced HG again and it fixed my problem.

 

[rkccs.257]

Most likely the head gasket. I had similar issues too, post HG recall. First it was the banjo bolt area. Then it was the timing chain cover. Ultimately it boiled down to a shoddy HG recall job at the place where I purchased the vehicle. Ended up getting a brand new engine under warranty so I think your issue maybe from the HG.

 

[JamoRS]

Most likely the head gasket. I had similar issues too, post HG recall. First it was the banjo bolt area. Then it was the timing chain cover. Ultimately it boiled down to a shoddy HG recall job at the place where I purchased the vehicle. Ended up getting a brand new engine under warranty so I think your issue maybe from the HG.

He has already been through all that, and is quite cluey, so I highly doubt this is the OPs problem.
I'm guessing you also didn't see this part of his post??

"The used a dye and identified that the only place the leak happens is that stupid bolt.
I have new tubes, new crushers, new seals whatever you want to call them.
They used copper, they used other materials, same result."

 

[rkccs.257]

They used the same dye test on mine. Had whatever I said replaced . Twice. I know and read his thing.

 

[Tongue Twinster]

Thanks everyone.
I think we are almost there.
I will try the dye method again to cover all bases.
We will scan the engine inch by inch until we find this tiny leak.

I am gonna try something else as well. I will replace the inox banjo bolt with a steel+zinc one.

 

[Max]

I would recommend you replace the oil inlet tube bolt with an OEM version first before you try the aftermarket one. I believe the part number is EJ7Z-00812-A. The reason is oil supply lines with ball bearing turbos usually have a restrictor in them with a certain orifice size to guarantee oil pressure to the turbo internals.

 

[Tongue Twinster]

EJ7Z-00812-A

The bolt you referenced has been changed 4 times as it comes with the standard tube which was also replaced 4 times.
In addition, the replacement bolt I got today is classified in Europe as M12x1.5 Banjo Bolt. This is exactly the OEM Spec and restriction but the material is different.
The OEM banjo bolt is made from INOX. The one I purchased today is made from Steel+Zinc.
I am using material with different thermal properties and might work better with the copper washer we have there.
After so many attempts to have this fixed and not finding any other areas, I somehow doubt the leak is from the Banjo Bolt like most of you here, I will try with this bolt.
The dealer swears there is no other area that is leaking. I do not believe that to be honest but here we are: tiny spots of oil which are barely noticeable.
When this fails, I will go back to the dye process and will look everywhere.
The dealer swears they do not see any other spot that it might leak.
I am sure I will need to redo the whole head gasket again as it might be leaking from there or the plastic cover that is on top of the head.
When this happens, the car will remain with the dealer and I will no longer take it home.
They will buy it back and I shall purchase a different vehicle from Audi/BMW/or Mercedes.

 

[JamoRS]

You have me worried now.
I'll have to jack mine up and see if my recently "fixed" leak has reared its ugly head, again.🤯👎

 

[Tongue Twinster]

Been playing with my Endoscope for the past hour.
Not enough oil to show the banjo leaking.
I have found a few spots here and there but I do not have enough conclusive data to state if this is new or old as they might not have cleaned it properly.
In one photo it looks like it leaks from the engine cover ...

 

[Max]

Have Ford tried/considered annealed copper washers? I am not talking about annealing the washers yourself, I mean purchasing washers that are sold specifically as an annealed copper washer.

Have Ford considered stat-o-seal washers? Obviously they would need to check if they are suitable for the temperature and pressure in the oil feed line.

Also, what is the size of the restrictor hole in oil feed tube bolt you just replaced? Eg 1mm (0.04 inches)?

 

[lucky phil]

The bolt you referenced has been changed 4 times as it comes with the standard tube which was also replaced 4 times.
In addition, the replacement bolt I got today is classified in Europe as M12x1.5 Banjo Bolt. This is exactly the OEM Spec and restriction but the material is different.
The OEM banjo bolt is made from INOX. The one I purchased today is made from Steel+Zinc.
I am using material with different thermal properties and might work better with the copper washer we have there.
After so many attempts to have this fixed and not finding any other areas, I somehow doubt the leak is from the Banjo Bolt like most of you here, I will try with this bolt.
The dealer swears there is no other area that is leaking. I do not believe that to be honest but here we are: tiny spots of oil which are barely noticeable.
When this fails, I will go back to the dye process and will look everywhere.
The dealer swears they do not see any other spot that it might leak.
I am sure I will need to redo the whole head gasket again as it might be leaking from there or the plastic cover that is on top of the head.
When this happens, the car will remain with the dealer and I will no longer take it home.
They will buy it back and I shall purchase a different vehicle from Audi/BMW/or Mercedes.

INOX is stainless steel. SS is a poor material for any fastener unless its a boat thats sees salt water. Its simply not elastic enough for a fastener material and has a tendency to loosen over time and because its not elastic enough you tend to overtorque them. I'd choose the plated steel banjo evert time ove a SS and I chose titanium fasteners over everything else when I build engines except for head, bigend and main cap bolts.
Thermal considerations are a non issue with the SS V Steel banjo or any other for that matter inc alloy which I use on oil cooler fittings and brake hoses.If you want bullet proof sealing with a banjo fitting or any other that requires a crush seal then get yourself some Dowty seals/washers. I've been using them for 40 years. Washer with integrated rubber seal available in all metric sizes.

Ciao

 

[Tongue Twinster]

Thank you for the replies. I will see if I can find those magic washers.
Had a look with the endo today, there are no significant leaks yet.
Going to check in another few days.

 

[SPITmadFIRE]

Thank you for the replies. I will see if I can find those magic washers.
Had a look with the endo today, there are no significant leaks yet.
Going to check in another few days.

It’s been a couple years now, wondering if you’re still active and if you found a permanent fix for this leak? This is the most comprehensive thread I’ve found and my dealer has tried 3-4 times to stop this leak since my HG recall work and timing chain cover sealant TSB years ago 🥲