[axelr]

just please do in same temps

There is no guarantee than just swapping the throttle will change anything: it’s not good practice (and does not make sense) to demand more than the engine can produce, right?

Since the strategy is demand-based and targets a certain torque value, removing restrictions will make it easier to satisfy the demand and reach the target, but no more.

Someone needs to tweak the demand, otherwise all you might see is the PCM closing the wastegate a little less, trying less hard, if it’s a little easier to meet the same demand. In fact, there is data out there published by Velossa - the snorkel guys - that shows a reduction in wastegate duty cycle with their add-in, probably combined with a free-flow air filter. The engine makes the same power (or marginally more depending on ambient conditions if the charge is a little less hot) but with less overall effort, less turbo speed and less back pressure. This opens more potential.

There are also tables that help the PCM predict the throttle angle that produces a certain flow at a given pressure, and it’s inverse which infers the flow from a given angle. Finally there are tables modeling the pressure drop across the throttle under various conditions. Some of these might need adjustments to achieve accurate control.

Some tweaking is necessary to maximize the use of a larger throttle, the torque demand at the top end for starters, and for perfectionists to make sure the PCM does not over or under correct, thinking the throttle is smaller than it really is.

 

[20focusstdriver17]

Decided to go ahead and wrap the gold tape right over the silver now it weighs more than the throttle body lol

 

[20focusstdriver17]

The purpose of that 43mm plastic funnel restrictor is really bugging me, I wonder if the engineers at Ford Racing could tell us what the reasoning was for adding that instead of all the speculation and guess work, I may shoot an email over to Ford Performance and see if I get a reply. Does anybody know of other vehicles that utilize that specific part, perhaps it's just a pre-ST parts bin carryover or something to limit hp/tq so the Mustang's performance numbers didnt get crushed? I know it is on the ST so this is something that would have been from at least 2013 engineering design on the 2.0 Ecoboost, but they probably used it on something else and carried it over the ST just as it was carried from the ST to the RS along with the same 57mm TB.

 

[NBcfl]

Just got the 65mm bbk throttle body & pcv baffle plate installed. Immediately after install the car idle is now high it stays at about 1400 rpm. Even when switch gears the car idle stays high doesn’t dip to about 1k rpm like it normally did. Other than that car drives good I’m wondering if it’s tune related with the throttle body or if it’s a baffle plate/ purge valve issue TIA

 

[hyracer]

You would need to re-tune
after installing the bigger TB. If you've already retuned, then you have a vacuum leak at one of the fittings.

 

[20focusstdriver17]

Just got the 65mm bbk throttle body & pcv baffle plate installed. Immediately after install the car idle is now high it stays at about 1400 rpm. Even when switch gears the car idle stays high doesn’t dip to about 1k rpm like it normally did. Other than that car drives good I’m wondering if it’s tune related with the throttle body or if it’s a baffle plate/ purge valve issue TIA

dont forget to recalibrate the open/close with the pedal..

The instructions were:
1) ignition on (don't start)
2) slowly press gas pedal to the floor 3 times
3) on the third press, keep holding it to the floor until the check engine light starts flashing
4) foot off the gas, and ignition off.

 

[NBcfl]

You would need to re-tune
after installing the bigger TB. If you've already retuned, then you have a vacuum leak at one of the fittings.

Ahh ok wasn’t sure if re tune was necessary but would definitely make sense.

 

[NBcfl]

dont forget to recalibrate the open/close with the pedal..

The instructions were:
1) ignition on (don't start)
2) slowly press gas pedal to the floor 3 times
3) on the third press, keep holding it to the floor until the check engine light starts flashing
4) foot off the gas, and ignition off.

Ive tried this & didn’t do much for me. The instructions for the 65mm bbk say to do a different relearn process. Which is the correct one to do? On the final page of link provided shows the different relearn process

https://smhttp-ssl-39784-bbk.nexcesscdn.net/media/product_pdf/BBK/BBK-1894.pdf

 

[20focusstdriver17]

Ive tried this & didn’t do much for me. The instructions for the 65mm bbk say to do a different relearn process. Which is the correct one to do? On the final page of link provided shows the different relearn process

https://smhttp-ssl-39784-bbk.nexcesscdn.net/media/product_pdf/BBK/BBK-1894.pdf

The BBK instructions look to be generic relearn procedures while the other one is for a Ford TB relearn. I would try them both but it sounds like you have another issue causing the high idle, almost sounds like the symptoms of an air leak on a carburetor. By chance did the Ford procedure acknowledge the calibration was made by flashing the check engine light? I would think the ECU will eventually make the necessary changes after driving it for a while.

 

[trentalexsender]

you need to upgrade your intercooler pipes to get rid of the choke point in front of the TB, and then it looks like the aftermarket hardpipes don't line up properly!

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[danaezabail]

One thing left out of your calculation is the TB plate and bar. That all takes up a lot of space so something larger ie 70mm would match 2.5" piping. Yes, and the manifold inlet should be bored at that point. Fairly easy to do.

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