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Are there any dyno results with before/after the TB change?
And only TB change, without retune?
And without changing pipes at the same time?

It will really help if you take out the reducer before the TB, so changing the cold side pipe is practically a must.
 

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Of course, pipes before tb.

But it would be nice to see the improvement if the TB alone.

A friend has done it, with sirtec pipes and 63mm tb. The car felt like lower torque and power. But his setup is also with tb Spacer and manofold spacer.
He removed the 63mm TB because driveability/power.


Thats why i would to see only differences of the TB.....
 

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Of course, pipes before tb.

But it would be nice to see the improvement if the TB alone.

A friend has done it, with sirtec pipes and 63mm tb. The car felt like lower torque and power. But his setup is also with tb Spacer and manofold spacer.
He removed the 63mm TB because driveability/power.


Thats why i would to see only differences of the TB.....
+8 hp / + 40 ft/lb on an ST posted in link several posts above, however this had a CPE cold side pipe AFAIK:

Product Human body Rectangle Slope Font


The restriction from the 43mm plastic throttle body reducer coupler on the end of OEM hose is determined to be the bottlneck, hence the new pipes/hoses needed for the TB upgrade to be beneficial:

Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Camera lens Tire Camera accessory
Automotive exhaust Composite material Gas Pipe Auto part



Even the hot side pipes have a NVM restriction that needs to be removed, the plastic "donuts" baffle:

Bicycle part Gas Auto part Wood Audio equipment
 

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So, following the yellow bricked road going forward I will have the outside ambient air entering the FRPP snorkel flowing into a sealed airbox with the K&N closed end filter exiting the 3" outlet into the Mountune full RS 3" intake eventually tapering down to 2.5" into the turbo, exiting into the Mountune 2.5" hot side hard pipe, then entering the 2.5" Mountune tube & fin FMIC entrance, exiting to the Cobb 2.5" cold side hard pipe, entering into to the 2.3 EB TB that will have been ported to a 2.6" entrance tapering down to the bored 2.44" (62mm) butterfly and then exiting at just a hair under the 2.57" (65.33mm) OE intake manifold entrance.. Of course all silicone hoses/couplers/reducers used are Samco / Mountune . :geek::D

This setup also removes the 2 restrictions found with the OE hoses, ie. the 43mm to 50 mm plastic funnel on the cold side hose and the NVH donuts found on the hot side pipe.
 

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Thanks again @20focusstdriver17 for that Murray clamp suggestion. I ended up not using it on my intercooler entrance... but I'm sure glad I had them on hand. Apparently t-bolt clamps are too tall for the offset coupler. So I got to use both of the Murray clamps on that coupler.





More room around the intake pipe now. I have the offset coupler set so it's further away at about 1:30 in relation to that picture. I first had it at 3 o'clock, but because the offset coupler is much taller than a straight coupler, the alignment of the hard pipe to the silicone elbow on the intercooler exit was funky. I rotated the coupler to pull the pipe a little away so the angles would be a little more forgiving. At some point I'd like to cut about an inch from the top of that pipe and take it somewhere to get a new bead rolled in. I also checked to see if the water-oil cooler hose could exist in the stock location when using an offset coupler. It's still in the way and contacts the upper part of the coupler, so I pushed it up above the starter again.


These clamps work, but I do think t-bolt clamps are much better looking. I really don't like the look of the excess strapping on worm gear clamps.
 

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I just got this kit that came with everything. It has the longer Ford bolts, wiring harness extension, new throttle body gasket, a couple t-bolt clamps, and a 2.5" -> 2.75" Mishimoto coupler (the only part I didn't use). The Mustang throttle body is an optional addon, and since the price seemed on par for what Ford charges, I got that too.

Focus RS Big Throttle Body Kit
Hello, was looking at your pictures earlier in this thread I also have cp-e cold side pipe is all I need to get the throttle body in this kit to work is a 2.75” coupler? Is there a coupler you’d recommend? Thank you for the help
 

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Hello, was looking at your pictures earlier in this thread I also have cp-e cold side pipe is all I need to get the throttle body in this kit to work is a 2.75” coupler? Is there a coupler you’d recommend? Thank you for the help
Yep, you just need a straight 2.75" coupler.

I've been getting silicone from HPS, and they seem pretty good.

Years ago I used to get silicone from Silicone Intakes which were decent (and cheap), but HPS's quality seems better.
 

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So after reading this whole thread think I’ll go the BBK route with the Damond throttle body kit. I already use the cp-e cold side pipe with bov on the car. Is the coupler I need 2.5” -> 2.75”? So the TB can mate to the cold pipe. Sorry if this has been answered already was a lot to read lol
 

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The cp-e cold-side pipe I have has a meth bung on it and is 2.75" throughout. I'm not sure if they've made any other dimension pipes, and I'd assume mine is based off their standard pipe, but with the bung welded in.

So I would assume yours is also 2.75", but you should measure it if you're unsure. If you have a Mishimoto intercooler, or the cp-e intercooler with the 2.75" exit installed, then your cold pipe should have a 2.75" straight through 90* elbow. Otherwise your elbow would probably be a 2.5" -> 2.75" reducing one as I think all other intercoolers have 2.5" exits.
 

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Finally got around to sending my Mustang 2.3L TB to Maxbore, Ill post some pics when it comes back!
 
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