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That is more than I was expecting and it maybe (a couple) more (hp/tq) if its around the same temp as the last time?

For me, those numbers it worth the upgrade to have a good foundation.
 

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I'd think the temperature might play a part, but not sure. We're in yet another heat wave and I think it was about 90F this morning when it was getting tuned.

The gap between the plots is nice, but the part I find most encouraging is the delay before the hp drops off appears to be pushed back another 500 rpm to 6500. Still, all of that could be coincidence... but I'd like to think it was from the throttle body. I'll have to search around for other dyno plots and see if there are similarities.
 

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I'd think the temperature might play a part, but not sure. We're in yet another heat wave and I think it was about 90F this morning when it was getting tuned.

The gap between the plots is nice, but the part I find most encouraging is the delay before the hp drops off appears to be pushed back another 500 rpm to 6500. Still, all of that could be coincidence... but I'd like to think it was from the throttle body. I'll have to search around for other dyno plots and see if there are similarities.
Do you feel the subtle difference though?
 

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I just got this kit that came with everything. It has the longer Ford bolts, wiring harness extension, new throttle body gasket, a couple t-bolt clamps, and a 2.5" -> 2.75" Mishimoto coupler (the only part I didn't use). The Mustang throttle body is an optional addon, and since the price seemed on par for what Ford charges, I got that too.

Focus RS Big Throttle Body Kit
 

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This is great to hear as i have the BBK and the install kit sitting on by shelf with a million other parts to install. Did you have any issues with the coolant hose that some instructions mention?
 

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Do you feel the subtle difference though?
I really can't be sure. Because of the prior plots, I would typically shift soon after 6000 rpm. I think it felt better, but it certainly didn't give me a definitive "wow" experience. And I can't play around with that more right now because I have the e40 mix in the tank, and the next time I have to run 91 octane, I'm not sure if I'd remember what it felt like with the OEM throttle body.

So in summary, I do think there was a subtle difference that was noticeable, but I wish I thought to run it up to 6500 rpm. I'm just a little reluctant to outright say "this is a certain improvement, and everyone should do it" because the dyno's weren't back-to-back, so I'm trying to state my opinions without stating them as absolute facts.
 

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This is great to hear as i have the BBK and the install kit sitting on by shelf with a million other parts to install. Did you have any issues with the coolant hose that some instructions mention?
I had to move the coolant hose (that goes to the water-oil cooler) above the starter. I have pictures showing that above, but I wish I took a picture of the actual interference. That hose was pushing on the coupler enough to deform it.
 

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I hope the offset coupler has enough clearance not to move it.
 

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I hope the offset coupler has enough clearance not to move it.
Yep, make sure to let us know what you have to do :D

To move it, you don't need to disconnect anything... so it's not a huge deal. I would have preferred it to stay in the OEM location though.

@OverkillYJ do you have a micrometer that you could measure your BBK with? We have measurements for all of the other throttle bodies, so it would be cool if we had this one too. So if you could get measurements of the entrance, butterfly part, and exit, that would be great!
 

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replaced Mishimoto cold-side pipe (2.75" -> 2.5") with cp-e (2.75" -> 2.75"), replaced throttle body with Maxhone'd Mustang throttle body (62mm)
The stock throttle opens fully around 4500-4600. If it’s perfect for the engine and perfectly matches the flow then there is no point in enlarging it (some people say).

My 65mm BBK throttle fully opens at 6000 which is also where the engine air flow demand meets the turbo air flow supply, so there is a cap there (the max turbo flow.)

Between those two RPM values and beyond, there is something left on the table. This can be seen clearly on your charts, where the large throttle takes the upper hand from 4500-ish and up. Then you already had 2.5” hard pipes, which already removed an important restriction found in the stock pipes: the difference from stock everything to your final setup is likely somewhat larger.

Interestingly, my original (calculated) estimate for going from stock everything to 2.5” + 65mm was “10-15hp at the top” and your measured values shows +9hp, going from 2.5” pipe with stock 57mm throttle to 2.75” + 62mm throttle, with a little twist as the 2nd measurement were made on a hotter day.

In retrospect, the estimates were spot on as far as the potential power gains, yet the large setup starts helping 1000 RPM sooner that I anticipated: I said not much before 5,800 although this is also exactly where the stock curve falls off and where the bulk of the gains from the larger setup begins, according to your dyno chart. Theory meets practice 😎
 

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@axelr sounds good, and I now wish that I had thought about datalogging to check those values before/after. Also to clarify, I had a Mishimoto cold-side silicone hose that was 2.75" -> 2.5" as I also have a Mishi intercooler that has a 2.75" exit. Because it was a single piece of silicone and it wouldn't work with a larger throttle body, I replaced it with the cp-e cold-side (and larger silicone elbow) so it was 2.75" straight through. So aside from the material differences (and slight design differences, only the last several inches changed from 2.5" to 2.75", as well as the throttle body change.

I was also thinking that low-end might have suffered. But from what you said, since this is fly-by-wire and the ecu controls the actual throttle angle (vs an older cable opening it all the way at low rpm).
 

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Very nice!
 

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only the last several inches changed from 2.5" to 2.75", as well as the throttle body change.
I see, yet it does not matter (much) for how long the smaller diameter was held. FIA intake restrictors are held for 3mm (0.118”) and that’s all it takes to put a hard clamp on the flow rate: it really doesn’t matter much how big is the pipe before the restriction, unless you are after the very last hp.

Anyway it’s cool to have experimental data! Larger hard pipes (esp cold side as that removes the plastic restrictor) combined with a larger throttle does provide a measurable benefit.

10, perhaps 15hp over stock in the last 1000 RPM on an already tuned car might not be worth the trouble for everyone but I certainly take them any day.
 

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10, perhaps 15hp over stock in the last 1000 RPM on an already tuned car might not be worth the trouble for everyone but I certainly take them any day.
OK, you talked me out of it.

LOL. 🤣
 
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Thread was inspiring.

Mountune intake—> Mountune hot pipes—> Stock IC-> Mountune cold pipes-> Damond kit with Mustang TB sent to Maxbore->Mountune Intake manifold

with FP cams, E85, HPFP, downpipe and balancer shaft delete, should be spicy, if I ever get it back together. 🙂
 

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@20focusstdriver17 the pro alloy looks to be a complete boost pipe set and not the cold side only.

The airtech is for the MK2 Focus RS.

The only cold side pipe 70MM I know of is the CP-e, with or without the BOV connection. Both has 2 bung connection for WMI.

if someone goes with a 70mm pipe and goes with the BBK or Mustang TB, a 2.75" to 2.50" silicone hose connection is needed. For the FP needs to be 2.75" through and through.

@FORZDA 2 , completely understand what you mean. Plugin in one of the big TB will be a waste of money without a tune and supporting mods.

I thing I would say though I want to build a good base and expand from it if I get the need.

The 2.3 Mustang ecoboost benefited from the FP 70mm TB upgrade.

Finally got a response from Pro_Alloy, the cold side (FMIC to TB) replacement hard pipe with silicon couplers is 174 pounds or $242 USD and that's without shipping costs to the USA in which I didnt even ask.. So it's an option, albeit an expensive one, in which case I would probably just buy the complete set if going that route. Now this price was for the ST pipe so I would guess the RS version is in the same ballpark but now we know they do sell individual replacement pieces.
 
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I just got this kit that came with everything. It has the longer Ford bolts, wiring harness extension, new throttle body gasket, a couple t-bolt clamps, and a 2.5" -> 2.75" Mishimoto coupler (the only part I didn't use). The Mustang throttle body is an optional addon, and since the price seemed on par for what Ford charges, I got that too.

Focus RS Big Throttle Body Kit





I have both "hot & "cold" side Mishimoto Intercooler Pipe/Tube kits

I'm wondering if I could get the silicone to "stretch" to fit over the larger diameter throttlebody...

Has anyone tried?

Where would I find a "2.5-inch metal jointer" as the site mentions?
 

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I have both "hot & "cold" side Mishimoto Intercooler Pipe/Tube kits

I'm wondering if I could get the silicone to "stretch" to fit over the larger diameter throttlebody...

Has anyone tried?

Where would I find a "2.5-inch metal jointer" as the site mentions?
samco has them

Samco Alloy Joiner 2.50" (63mm) OD

Samco Alloy Joiner 2.75" (76mm) OD
 

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@nicklulu , have you gotten around to doing this? I was curious about what route you went with, to get mated up to that larger throttle body.

I have a non-reducing offset coupler on order. I want to get my intake pipe away from the water-oil cooler, and also I've had to have the pipe slightly cocked to not contact that cooler. I'll try to remember to take pictures with that coupler, and also see if the water hose going to the water-oil cooler can exist in its OE position, or if it needs to stay above the starter.
 
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