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How much do they charge for dyno and when are you going?
 

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For just a dyno? I think I paid $150 when I first got my car. This tune should run about $400.

My appointment is on May the 4th :D
 

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Man, If it was this Fri through Mon or weekends I could have drove to meet up.

Thinking about baselining my car before I bolt on all the parts.
 
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Ah, that would have been cool!

You're in Cali, right? I'd imagine there would be lots of places to dyno there. Personally, I'd look for a Dynojet dyno. Dyno-Comp has a Dyno Dynamics. The main reason I prefer Dynojet is that you can download their software (winpep) and load your dyno run file yourself. So you can do better comparisons, instead of relying on a print out or screen shot. The place I used to get dyno's and tunes from (for my other car) shut down a little while ago, and I haven't yet found another Dynojet around yet.
 

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@Si2RS and I talked about setting up a dyno day when he gets his on the roller and hopefully other members.

And hopefully before I install stuff to get a baseline.
 

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Dyno days are cool... I haven't seen one around here for a long time. They were $50 and they usually served hamburgers/hotdogs.

If you're interested in a Dynojet dyno, I found a link on their site that shows places that use them (search using zip code map). I think I found somewhere to go after I get tuned too!
Automotive Dyno Center | Dynojet
 

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@morbid do you recall what is the OD of your TB?

I recall you used a 2.75" coupler.

The FP TB is 73mm, while waiting for some of the parts I need to do my install I figured since I have 2 spare 2.5" to 2.75" couplers to test to stretch them and fit it on the TB....... sad to say it wont work.

I intend to get the 2.875" (73mm) coupler (same one WUPLash got on his ST) but it would be 3mm bigger than the cold pipe. I also plane to get a 2.75" to 3" (70mm to 76mm) offset reduced coupler just in case (thanks for the pics on your install). Now the cold side pipe would be a perfect fit but 3mm bigger than the TB.

Already burned so much time and I was not able to find a reducer from 70mm to 73mm as its too close.

I made up my mind and decided to replace all the clamps I have after the intake to to bolt clamps to make get all those connection as snug as I can and my OCD won't allow me to do so. I even have the Mountune Boost hose clamp set on hand.
 

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I measured the OD of the mustang tb at 70mm, so 2.75".

Yeah, going from 2.875 -> 2.75 should be fun. It's close enough that you'd think it would work, and especially since no one seems to sell solutions for that. I mentioned before that the cp-e pipe might be able to be stretched, but I'm also wondering if you could add material to the tb to thicken it up to work with a 3" hose. Adding a layer of rubber might make it a little squirrley though. Maybe take the cp-e pipe to a muffler shop and see what they think? They usually have flaring tools, but the pipe is pretty thin, so I'm not sure if it could handle being stretched. Though it would just need another 2-3mm to be an exact match.
 

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WUPLash is happy with his 2.875" , great fit on the TB side and bit loose on the cold side pipe that he clamped down and no pop-off issues.

So if i have enough clearance I'll use that coupler, but from your pic if I use the offset coupler it'll be a great fit on the cold side pipe and bit loose on the TB side but using a t-bold clamp I hope I can clamp it down enough to not pop-off.
 

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I just ordered the t-bolt clamps and two alternative couplers:

351792
 
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Not sure if they are still available but you used to be able to get rubber adapters for radiator hoses at the auto parts stores. If you had an odd sized outlet pipe on a radiator, you would slip the rubber ring on the outlet and then slip the larger radiator hose over the ring. Tighten with a clamp and you're done. Might give that a try on your throttle body or cold pipe.
 
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Not sure if they are still available but you used to be able to get rubber adapters for radiator hoses at the auto parts stores. If you had an odd sized outlet pipe on a radiator, you would slip the rubber ring on the outlet and then slip the larger radiator hose over the ring. Tighten with a clamp and you're done. Might give that a try on your throttle body or cold pipe.
If you can provide a link that would be great.

Thank you for the tip!
 

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@nicklulu , have you tried a heat gun and force? I don't think these would flex much... but I'm not sure. I know rubber wouldn't be an issue. I managed to get a 2.75" air filter on a 3" pipe :D

Maybe also trimming the inside of the 2.75" coupler slightly to create a ramp so it's not just butting up and will at least start to fit?

Also, in the past I have shaved the inside of a thick 5-layer coupler, and didn't have issues. That was at lower boost (~17 psi) on a different car. You probably only need 1-2mm more... 3mm if you want it perfect.
 

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I've tried the soap method and heat gun method, no go.

The couplers I got should fit now, depending on which coupler the cold side might have a 3mm slack or the TB side will have the 3mm slack.

I hope to t-bolt clamp will compensate for that slack.
 

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Thanks for all the measurements @nicklulu ! It's interesting that your FP inner (70mm) is the same size as the Mustang outer diameter. So it could also swallow that one, if the hose barb was removed.

Now we just need someone to get the BBK to complete this. I'm very curious if the "65mm" is the entrance or the butterfly. Based off the labeling of these other products, I'm thinking it might be the entrance.
65mm is the butterfly. Stock RS is 57mm, stock Mustang is 60mm.
 

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65mm is the butterfly. Stock RS is 57mm, stock Mustang is 60mm.
You've measured the BBK? I was unsure about the advertised size of the BBK because different places seem to advertise throttle bodys differently, either by the entrance size or the butterfly size.... or some arbitrary value in-between. Like Damond says the stock Mustang tb is 63mm. Ford Performance's "70mm" throttle body has a 70mm entrance and a 67mm butterfly (according to @nicklulu).

So I don't trust them, and only trust actual measurements of the different parts of the throttle body.
 

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@nicklulu I'd probably pretend that 2.87" throttle body is 3". Much like most places that manufacture silicone (and aluminum) reducers. I had a look again, and even for an aluminum reducing joiner... but no luck.

I'd suggest starting off with that 3" -> 2.75" offset coupler. While your new shiny manifold is out, attach the throttle body to it, then attach the coupler to the throttle body. With it all out you can see how much you're forcing the 3" side to be 2.87", and ensure the coupler remains fully seated the whole time until fully tight. You'll also have plenty of space to use a torque wrench, if you want. On the Mishimoto cold-side hose I had before, I thought it was really tight and was afraid of cracking my throttle body, but it kept sliding down a bit after a while. I checked their instructions and they included torque values, and I was way off. I didn't have an issue after that..... just putting that out there :D

Getting the cp-e pipe into the other side of the coupler should be straightforward, so that's why I'd suggest doing the other end out of the car.
 

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My thoughts exactly, the t-bolt clamps max torque 75 inch/lbs.

test fit it while its not in the car.

👍
 

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Yay, got e85 blend tuned today. I had them refresh my 91 octane tune first, and keep the dyno plot. Below is the comparison between today and 4 months ago. Again, not super scientific, but I was entertained by the results. I was figuring if there were any measurable gains, it would be in the upper rpm's and it looks like about +9hp / +12tq. In addition to the items below, it was probably about 20-30F warmer today in their garage than last time.

Relevant changes to the car since last dyno:
replaced fuel injector pressure sensor
replaced fuel injectors (no perceivable change)
replaced Mishimoto cold-side pipe (2.75" -> 2.5") with cp-e (2.75" -> 2.75")
replaced throttle body with Maxhone'd Mustang throttle body (62mm)

 
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