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That is so strange! I thought I've seen all the aftermarket manifolds... apparently not!

Does that plenum separate? It looks there's a seam around it.... but wasn't sure if it was welded or something.
 

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How's the runners look like?
 

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So I would really appreciate similar measurements for those other throttle bodies so we can have more complete comparisons.
I measured the OE TB:

Measurement (mm)
Entrance
59.80​
Middle (Butterfly Area)
56.95​
Exit
60.56​

351313

351314
351315


And the Ford Performance one:

Measurement (mm)
Entrance
70.00​
Middle (Butterfly Area)
67.00​
Exit
65.00​

351316


I was not able to take a photo when I was doing the measurement for the butterfly (trying not to scratch my TB while taking a photo)

351317



@SenderPiggins , if you can update your first post on this thread with the measurements from mine and @morbid (no need for the photos if you don't want to) for posterity's sake. Much appreciated. 👍
 

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Look at that plenum volume though....

👍
 

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Thanks for all the measurements @nicklulu ! It's interesting that your FP inner (70mm) is the same size as the Mustang outer diameter. So it could also swallow that one, if the hose barb was removed.

Now we just need someone to get the BBK to complete this. I'm very curious if the "65mm" is the entrance or the butterfly. Based off the labeling of these other products, I'm thinking it might be the entrance.
 

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(crossposted from "What did you get in the mail today")
Just got a Mustang 2.3L throttle body back from Max Bore.

Before (mm)After (mm)
entrance65.9066.84
middle (butterfly area)59.9562.11
exit61.9564.77

The transitions between the areas are smooth and the entrance/exit measurements are near the very ends. It's not a huge difference, but I knew that not much could be done on this when I sent it.



@SenderPiggins , can you also post his measurements on the original post sir?

I appreciate what you do sir.

👍
 

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@nicklulu you're going to have a really fun time! I'm still putting my car back together, but I also replaced the injectors.... and I came inside for a break. I'll put up pictures later tonight, as well as any input from the test drive. I only have the cp-e hard pipe left to put on, then the bumper cover and all that.

But I did have to move the oil cooler coolant hose above the starter (instead of below it). The coupler is slightly being pushed by the oil filter adapter (the coolant hose was pushing it a lot). So when I say you're going to have some fun, I mean it's possible you might need to use an offset coupler. I'm also wondering if the mustang oil filter adapter is smaller in diameter since it doesn't have coolant running through it. If someone is running that adapter, and has an air-oil cooler... I'm assuming they'd have more room.

Also for the pcv hose on the side of the intake manifold. It shares some space with the mustang tb plug... but only during install. I had to pull that rigid pcv hose up to rotate it further above the tb plug so I could get that plug in. After seating the plug, the pcv hose can be rotated back down and sits above the plug, next to the wires. I would suggest plugging in the pcv hose before plugging the tb in, or else I think it would be way more challenging to get the pcv connector seated.

Those are really the only 2 interference things I ran into... so not a huge deal. Also I measured the inlet for my OE intake manifold and its height is the exact diameter of my tb's exit. Apparently our manifold inlets are 1mm wider than tall... so the side/side section is still 1mm wider than my tb. There's some play in the bolt holes, so I centered the tb before tightening it down fully.
 

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I can't wait for your feedback And pics man..... and my intake manifold.

Also I thought you had a mishimoto cold side pipe, did you swap it out with CP-e?
 

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Yeah, the mishi cold-side silicone has a 2.75" entrance and 2.5" exit. Since it's a single piece of molded silicone, that wouldn't work for this. I thought I was going to run meth, so I got the cp-e pipe a while ago... but decided on an e85 blend instead. I still tried to install the cp-e pipe, and that's when I found that the silicone elbow it came with was 2.5" -> 2.75"... so I had to abort. This time I have a 2.75" elbow... and the pipe is almost together. The straight coupler is close... the coupler sits above the water-oil cooler and the cp-e pipe was like .5mm to the side of it. I've pushed it more into the elbow to put some tension on it and now it's like 1-1.5mm away from the cooler. 3 more clamps to tighten up... but I'm just playing with alignment of all that before I do.

I'm fairly certain you'll need an offset coupler for that larger throttle body. The only way you could run a straight coupler is if you didn't have the water-oil cooler. You'll see what I mean when I get the pics up later :D
 

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Here are some pictures. Also, I wish I had a kitchen scale so that I could have weighed the throttle bodies. The mustang tb is noticeably lighter... like 25-33% lighter. Maxhone did remove some material but I think most of that weight difference is just the tb itself.

I drove around for a bit, but I'll have to drive it a bunch more and see. There was no perceivable positive or negative difference. It seemed subtly more smooth, though I also did change out all 4 injectors in my effort to eliminate my misfires (didn't seem to help).

I wasn't expecting anything massive. This whole thing was to satisfy my own expectations of how my intake setup should be. With the Mishimoto intercooler and pipes, it was 2.75" going down to 2.5" for a 57mm throttle body. I saw the throttle body as the last small part that was there to match the OE pipe/intercooler sizes and power levels. I also think the OE throttle body is just too small for how much power the engine is making tuned.

Mustang throttle body and 2.75" coupler attached:


Here you can see the coupler above the edge of the water-oil cooler. The hose going around the coupler goes to that cooler, which I pushed up and above the clip that held it in place.


The red part near the center of the image is the lock for the throttle body extension connector. You can kind of see the PCV line going right next to the top of that connector.


Down the front. You can see the wear marks on the top of the water-oil cooler which is where the hose used to be. The hose is now above the starter. You can also see how close the coupler is to the water-oil cooler, with the coupler clamp above the cooler.


The gap between the water-oil cooler and the intake pipe was about .5mm. I pushed the other end of the pipe further into the silicone elbow to pull it a little and got the gap to about 1-1.5mm (still not a whole lot).


Another shot down the front.
 

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I appreciate the feedback, pics and the guide.

Not sure how much the Mountune intake mani would make a difference as well as the FP TB on the placement.

I did ask Wuplash (guy with the ST) about any install issue and the only thing he said was the coupler size, 2.875" (not even an offset type one, just 3" might bee to big for the FP TB).

My install might also take longer than yours as I need to do the following:

  • Charge pipe (hot and cold).
  • FMIC
  • Intake Manifold
  • Breather plate
  • Oil catch cans
  • Radiator and hoses (maybe)
My expectation for my TB install is really modest (2-3HP), but better TB response.

I can't wait for your test driving later on.

Thank you again.
 
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Hah, you do have a lot in the works! Now that you're talking about the Mountune manifold, I wished that I filled my OE one with water to check its capacity. The plenum seems rather small, which seems to be the biggest difference with the aftermarket manifolds. After yours gets extrudehoned, it should have quite a bit more volume than stock.

I also wanted to mention that I followed the BBK instructions for retraining the ecu for the throttle body. The result at least matched the instructions.... so I can only assume it worked.

The instructions were:
1) ignition on (don't start)
2) slowly press gas pedal to the floor 3 times
3) on the third press, keep holding it to the floor until the check engine light starts flashing
4) foot off the gas, and ignition off.
 

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Thanks for the tip about the retaining the ECU for the TB.

I have something to test to increase the plenum in tandem of the X-hone AFM of the intake mani.

What do you think between the t-bolt and the worm type clamp? in regards of the clearance, clamping and instaillation?
 

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I'm preferring the t-bolts and I think I just have 1 worm left. To get the worms to grip well, they need to be near their max clamping, and if you go a little over that then they can strip. The clearance for the t-bolts can be tight in some locations, but it seems like there's always at least 1 orientation that allows it to work.

For the 2 t-bolts at the throttle body, I had 1 clamped down before it went in, but I still had to do the bottom clamp in the car. I'm really glad that I recently picked up a fine tooth 1/4" drive ratchet because there's not a whole lot of room there to rotate the ratchet.
 

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I'm preferring the t-bolts and I think I just have 1 worm left. To get the worms to grip well, they need to be near their max clamping, and if you go a little over that then they can strip. The clearance for the t-bolts can be tight in some locations, but it seems like there's always at least 1 orientation that allows it to work.

For the 2 t-bolts at the throttle body, I had 1 clamped down before it went in, but I still had to do the bottom clamp in the car. I'm really glad that I recently picked up a fine tooth 1/4" drive ratchet because there's not a whole lot of room there to rotate the ratchet.
Felt the same when installing my charge pipe kit. Had just found a great deal on the Gearwrench 120XP set. Made tightening that clamp down a breeze.
 
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I'm scheduled for an updated dyno tune, plus some e85 blend maps, in a couple weeks. I wish I could have had back to back dyno's for the throttle body, but this is the best I can do. My last dyno is from October 30th :(

Very much not scientific, but I'll post up results regardless.
 

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I wish you all the best.

@morbid, where you at?
 

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Thanks! I'm in Phoenix, AZ. I'm going to Dyno-Comp, who's done my initial tune, plus an update to disable that eco-shift arrow that Cobb (for some reason) added.
 
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