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It's here, so much prep time that it's already sitting in place. Question for you experienced folks, according to MAP I need the 2.0 HG, that's what I got (confirmed) but it sure looks like that HG does a lot of coolant blocking when compared to the 2.3 HG.
Do I need to modify the 2.0 HG when mating a 2.3 head to a 2.0 block?

Gratuitous photo

View attachment 355239
I seem to recall someone else doing this here a few years ago and needing to modify the cooling ports in the 2.0 block. Try a search, there was images of the modifications required.
EDIT.....Here you go.


Ciao
 

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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
Thanks Phil, seen that one, he's using a 2.3 HG there, which he's changing to match the 2.0 block... At least that's the way I read it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Alright, real real progress and now a roadblock...
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Blue Automotive design Hood


Car Vehicle Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle


All installed, the only warnings are TPMS, IAT, and Headlights (all of which are not currently installed (looks like I hit all the connections - woohoo).

Here is the blocker, clutch in, press start - click whizzz (solenoid clicking - starter spinning) - no engagement, no cranking. Thought it was the battery so I charged it up, no change. Pulled starter and took it to Oreilly's to see it work, looks fine, spins and extends like it should. Reinstalled and click whizzz is all I get. I'll pick up a 2.0 ST starter this afternoon to see if there are physical changes (2.0 block, maybe different?) but I see that the same ST starter is used on lots of 2.0/2.3 configs, the only unique thing about our starters is that they are start/stop capable (which I have disabled) and +$100.00.
Any pointers here, the click means that the solenoid is getting power (disconnected and all I get is whizzz to test) the whizzz means the motor is getting power. Battery is strong, not the problem. Little stumped and so close to firing her up. Maybe run a separate ground to the starter to eliminate that possibility?
 

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Are you sure the starter is spinning in the car? I've had sometimes where the main harness didn't get fully seated properly in the fuse box near the battery. Everything appears good, then you hit the start button and it doesn't start. But I don't think the starter get power when that happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Are you sure the starter is spinning in the car? I've had sometimes where the main harness didn't get fully seated properly in the fuse box near the battery. Everything appears good, then you hit the start button and it doesn't start. But I don't think the starter get power when that happens.
That seems so simple it just might be it, I'll take a look. Thanks!
(although, it sure seems like it's spinning from inside...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
Are you sure the starter is spinning in the car? I've had sometimes where the main harness didn't get fully seated properly in the fuse box near the battery. Everything appears good, then you hit the start button and it doesn't start. But I don't think the starter get power when that happens.
Wow, good call, the starter was not spinning. I pulled the starter wire off the battery box and the sound was identical. Hooked the wire back up and connected a light tester to see if the car was sending current to the starter motor, none. Fuse looks good (swapped another in to test) relay seems fine ( will swap when I fine some).. what else might prohibit sending current?
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
I am getting a code, poor starter performance, which I assume means the starter didn't do what the car asked, could that code be what is preventing the motor from spinning?
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
Do you have a known good starter? Hang tested?
Well, good according to O'Reilly's, for what that worth. I saw it spin and actuate, looked strong. Can the car tell it's less than good and prevent it from spinning?

I do have a replacement but with the failure to send current I'm hesitant to put it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
neutral/clutch safety?

not an RS pro yet, just throwing stuff out there I’ve dealt with in other builds/swaps*
I'll take it, all day, this one is weird. Tomorrow I'll jump the starter motor from the batt and see if it goes, maybe break some code loose.
 

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Did you re-check the main harness connection? If the lever isn't fully up when it's started in, it'll appear good... but slightly out. Enough that all the accessories function, but the starter won't kick. The specifics of why that is.... I'm not sure. I've just had that happen a few times, so I know to check that now. The first time it happened, I was checking lots of things before finding that :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 · (Edited)
Did you re-check the main harness connection? If the lever isn't fully up when it's started in, it'll appear good... but slightly out. Enough that all the accessories function, but the starter won't kick. The specifics of why that is.... I'm not sure. I've just had that happen a few times, so I know to check that now. The first time it happened, I was checking lots of things before finding that :D
Are you referring the main harness connection in the engine bay fuse box? I'll try that this morning.

Edit, no joy. Reseated the harness paying close attention to the lever, it's good, no spin tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
Summary so no one has to read thru the whole thing...
Something upstream of the starter is preventing current from being sent to the starter.
Clamped a light tester between the negative battery post and the hot going to the starter. The light never illuminates during the start cycle, no blips, no dim light, nothing.
Solenoid is working, clicks out, clicks in. Implies that the ignition system is saying "yes, lets go". (I doubt the starter relay is loud enough to get confused with the solenoid sound)
Start with clutch disengaged results in nothing happening, clutch engaged and I get clicks. Implies that the clutch switch is saying "go ahead and start".
Starter relay and fuse swapped with others, no joy.
Added second main ground wire from negative post to transmission housing, no joy.
Code from AP = P06E9 (starter performance - duh)

Although the battery looks fine and spent two+ days on the charger this is where I'm headed now -
When I press start the stereo lights go off, the sub makes a noise, and typically the headlight IAT warnings pop up again (after previously clearing them) almost as if the power was cycled. I believe this implies that the battery is doing everything it can to pull the solenoid and hold it in place - temporary brownout for the rest of the car. I'm going to get the battery tested this afternoon. (Edit our cars have something called a DC/DC converter that is supposed to prevent the brownout as part of the start/stop system, if this feature cannot keep the stereo from cycling It must be the battery... we shall see)

If the battery tests fine I will install the ST starter and see if this is rooted in a 2.0 block mechanical issue (I seriously doubt it though).
 

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Summary so no one has to read thru the whole thing...
Something upstream of the starter is preventing current from being sent to the starter.
Clamped a light tester between the negative battery post and the hot going to the starter. The light never illuminates during the start cycle, no blips, no dim light, nothing.
Solenoid is working, clicks out, clicks in. Implies that the ignition system is saying "yes, lets go". (I doubt the starter relay is loud enough to get confused with the solenoid sound)
Start with clutch disengaged results in nothing happening, clutch engaged and I get clicks. Implies that the clutch switch is saying "go ahead and start".
Starter relay and fuse swapped with others, no joy.
Added second main ground wire from negative post to transmission housing, no joy.
Code from AP = P06E9 (starter performance - duh)

Although the battery looks fine and spent two+ days on the charger this is where I'm headed now -
When I press start the stereo lights go off, the sub makes a noise, and typically the headlight IAT warnings pop up again (after previously clearing them) almost as if the power was cycled. I believe this implies that the battery is doing everything it can to pull the solenoid and hold it in place - temporary brownout for the rest of the car. I'm going to get the battery tested this afternoon. (Edit our cars have something called a DC/DC converter that is supposed to prevent the brownout as part of the start/stop system, if this feature cannot keep the stereo from cycling It must be the battery... we shall see)

If the battery tests fine I will install the ST starter and see if this is rooted in a 2.0 block mechanical issue (I seriously doubt it though).
FWIW: I've read on the forum, somewhere (cant find the thread atm), that the battery can test fine and still be going bad, to where things like auto start/stop will not work, however to be my own devils advocate no where did it mention that the car wouldn't start if I'm recalling the thread accurately.

Best of luck getting your issue resolved!
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
FWIW: I've read on the forum, somewhere (cant find the thread atm), that the battery can test fine and still be going bad, to where things like auto start/stop will not work, however to be my own devils advocate no where did it mention that the car wouldn't start if I'm recalling the thread accurately.

Best of luck getting your issue resolved!
I'm finding similar info, start stop never worked for me which is likely due to the battery being in sub-optimal condition. Add to that, two months of sitting on a table after getting towed two miles in the dark by a tractor (had to use the focus headlights to light the way) without getting charged (negligence on my part)... and maybe it's simply dead.
 

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Summary so no one has to read thru the whole thing...
Something upstream of the starter is preventing current from being sent to the starter.
Clamped a light tester between the negative battery post and the hot going to the starter. The light never illuminates during the start cycle, no blips, no dim light, nothing.
Solenoid is working, clicks out, clicks in. Implies that the ignition system is saying "yes, lets go". (I doubt the starter relay is loud enough to get confused with the solenoid sound)
Start with clutch disengaged results in nothing happening, clutch engaged and I get clicks. Implies that the clutch switch is saying "go ahead and start".
Starter relay and fuse swapped with others, no joy.
Added second main ground wire from negative post to transmission housing, no joy.
Code from AP = P06E9 (starter performance - duh)

Although the battery looks fine and spent two+ days on the charger this is where I'm headed now -
When I press start the stereo lights go off, the sub makes a noise, and typically the headlight IAT warnings pop up again (after previously clearing them) almost as if the power was cycled. I believe this implies that the battery is doing everything it can to pull the solenoid and hold it in place - temporary brownout for the rest of the car. I'm going to get the battery tested this afternoon. (Edit our cars have something called a DC/DC converter that is supposed to prevent the brownout as part of the start/stop system, if this feature cannot keep the stereo from cycling It must be the battery... we shall see)

If the battery tests fine I will install the ST starter and see if this is rooted in a 2.0 block mechanical issue (I seriously doubt it though).
The battery is toast. Everyone needs one of these.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ancel-BA...em-Digital-Analyzer-Diagnostic-Tool/476088429

Ciao
 
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