[krypt0]

My ASBuilt doesn’t have any 730 or PSCM items listed.
Anyone else in the same situation?

I’ve seen some posts where people were able to disable PDC on their RS, however forum and web searches aren’t conclusive when talking specifically about the MK3 RS and PDC, unless I’m completely missing it?

Also the PDC setting in the IDS system seems to only reset, not disable/enable.

 

[Warriormonx]

From my own research it doesn’t appear conclusive. Some say PDC disablement is the answer, but I have heard from owners who replaced the oil filled front steering bushes with solid polyurethane units and reported it resolved the problem instantly (logic being that the oil filled bushes distorted under heavy load).

https://collinsperformance.com/shop...arts/anti-torque-steer-bush-kit-focus-rs-mk3/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tedsRS]

great, another thing i need to buy

 

[Warriormonx]

I am not totally convinced. Besides which removing the OEM bushes is a ***** and requires them to be cut open; which I am not wild about doing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[John_82RS]

I had this issue which seemed to have gone away. I ran the car in Track mode/Normal Damp. ESC ON or "half" off did not seem to make a difference. Tested it multiple times and the issue no longer existed. I have no tested running the car in Sport with ESC half off yet (the jolt scares the bajesus out of me). I do believe ESC Half/Full off does act on the PDC in some way however.

 

[p.laver]

I've tried the dealer I bought from at each service and both times refused for a different reason each time. I may have found tuner that can switch off PDC but it's not cheap. The god thikg is they will only charge if they disable PDC. I

I'll post here once I've set-up a time for them to check and switch off.

 

[nwnerd]

I replaced all the bushings in my A-arms with powerflex polly bushings. The rear gel filled bushings are garbage, I could totally see them flexing under load. With the upgraded bushings my castor is at 5.5* / 5.3* and this thread has reminded me that I haven't had any issues with the car getting squirly under load in a LONG time.... I have roads by me that used to really cause issues and now it drives like normal.
....

Hi @Biznatch,
When you replaced the bushings, did you get any increased NVH or extra feedback in the car?

 

[Biznatch]

Hi @Biznatch,
When you replaced the bushings, did you get any increased NVH or extra feedback in the car?

Not that I noticed. I think I noticed the RMM more when I installed that. I have a second set of the bushings up for sale for far cheaper than than they go for online.

 

[Prismatic]

What helped my car the most was the cpr stage 2 rmm and some 265/35/18 tires. In track mode I have no torque steer at wot or any speed.

 

[samage80]

Finally got an alignment done. There is some improvement for sure. I was darting around on throttle and off throttle beforehand. Much improved but still room for improvement.

The toe value of my front right was significantly out of whack so it's no surprised the alignment cured a good chunk of unpredictability.

 

[OverkillYJ]

Does anyone have recent experience with the powerflex Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings?

Ford Focus Mk3 Inc ST (2011+) Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings (Street)

Ford Focus Mk3 Inc ST (2011+) Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings (Street) Diagram reference #2 Ford Focus Mk3 Inc ST (2011+) Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings (Street) FF19-1802G is a CNC machined aluminium mount and polyurethane bush to...

raptorracing.ca

I read in previous threads that the sleeve was slipping out and people were fabbing collars on them. I would like to try these and their Front Lower Control Arm Adjustable Camber Bushings.

 

[Biznatch]

Does anyone have recent experience with the powerflex Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings?

Ford Focus Mk3 Inc ST (2011+) Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings (Street)

Ford Focus Mk3 Inc ST (2011+) Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings (Street) Diagram reference #2 Ford Focus Mk3 Inc ST (2011+) Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings (Street) FF19-1802G is a CNC machined aluminium mount and polyurethane bush to...

raptorracing.ca

I read in previous threads that the sleeve was slipping out and people were fabbing collars on them. I would like to try these and their Front Lower Control Arm Adjustable Camber Bushings.

I have the full set of bushings you're looking for up for sale, for cheaper than you can get the Caster bushings for. This was a replacement kit that was sent to fix the sleeve issue, but I had already welded the 2 pieces of my current kit together.

I'm running the full set up front with just the static front bushing (no camber), and with a proper alignment I no longer get the yanking under hard acceleration.

 

[OverkillYJ]

I have the full set of bushings you're looking for up for sale, for cheaper than you can get the Caster bushings for. This was a replacement kit that was sent to fix the sleeve issue, but I had already welded the 2 pieces of my current kit together.

I'm running the full set up front with just the static front bushing (no camber), and with a proper alignment I no longer get the yanking under hard acceleration.

What bushings exactly are you selling? i am looking for the adjustable camber fronts

 

[Biznatch]

What bushings exactly are you selling? i am looking for the adjustable camber fronts

Those are the ones I'm selling as the kit. I switched to the static bushings when I installed FA 500's with camber plates.

I'm unable to edit my old FS post that was migrated with the forum, so I'm recreating now.

 

[OverkillYJ]

Those are the ones I'm selling as the kit. I switched to the static bushings when I installed FA 500's with camber plates.

I'm unable to edit my old FS post that was migrated with the forum, so I'm recreating now.

I will keep an eye out.

 

[DeanHart]

Does anyone have recent experience with the powerflex Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings?

Ford Focus Mk3 Inc ST (2011+) Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings (Street)

Ford Focus Mk3 Inc ST (2011+) Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings (Street) Diagram reference #2 Ford Focus Mk3 Inc ST (2011+) Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings (Street) FF19-1802G is a CNC machined aluminium mount and polyurethane bush to...

raptorracing.ca

I read in previous threads that the sleeve was slipping out and people were fabbing collars on them. I would like to try these and their Front Lower Control Arm Adjustable Camber Bushings.

Yes, these help the car track straight due to caster increase. They need to be welded . . .

Note that I do not experience the car 'pulling under power' on the track.

I have settled on tramlining as the cause of 'torque steer' or whatever you want to call it

 

[nwnerd]

I've been trying to fix this problem from the beginning, with limited success. Over the past 2 years, this has been my journey in my quest to fix this problem. For reference, my car is a 2017 that I took delivery on in July 2017. 245/40/18 PS4S tires.

Alignment 1
My first alignment from the dealer was a complete disaster, they had it aligned to specs from the wrong model & it was VERY wrong. As others have said, don't count on dealer alignments.

Alignment 2
I then took it to a reputable local shop, but they didn't have a lot of experience with this car & without much to go on at that point in time, we took a guess. That alignment was front toe in .11, rear toe in .15. Not only did it not fix the problem at all, it made the car push badly.

Alignment 3
After driving it for a while on the previous settings & doing a lot of reading here (with so much more info on the issue), I took it back & chatted with the tech. We settled on 0 toe all around. While tramlining is far from cured on my car, these settings have made the most difference & improvement. Push is gone now as well, it's far more neutral & balanced.

Other things that I have noted or tried:

• Worn tires make the issue worse, new tires are noticeably better.
• Driving in track mode with ESC fully disabled does help some on my car, but it's still a problem.
• PDC - tried to get the dealer to turn it off (8/2019), but they couldn't find a way to do it. We talked about the issue & they did say that it's a notorious car for that issue.

I'm at the point that while it's improved (probably by about 50% if I had to throw a number at it), it's not good enough. I'm not expecting perfection, it will likely always be twitchy. But I think there is a lot of room for improvement without expecting perfection, & based on all of my reading, I've decided to install KW/Litchfield suspension w/camber plates on it next spring. This should fix the tramlining issue & bad ride all in one shot.

 

[Stealth.rs]

Well, I have another fast Ford (FoST->FiST->FoRS) and even though I've got AWD, it's still showing the ugly face of torque steer. Tire PSI is 38 front 40 rear. I've let air out to this point and although improved, its still there. Doesn't matter if I'm in normal, sport, or drift, torque steer still manages to come and say hello. Is there a mod or something I can adjust mechanically to compensate and eliminate?

What tire size I have 255 19 and they pull everywhere

 

[thirdgen89gta]

I must be one of the few people who's owned 2 RS' and neither have torque steered. I still think people are mistaking tram lining for torque steer.

 

[axelr]

1) Turn off PDC. It’s possible with hacking tools, look for Carloop threads here. That will not cure any wandering under hard acceleration, but at least the car will not make the steering stiff preventing you to make corrections.

2) Upgrade all bushings. I cannot stress that enough. The most important are the big ones at the rear of the front track control arms (TCA). They are quite expensive at $480-ish from powerflex but there may be other suppliers. Then the inner-front TCA, then the two big ones at the front-end of the rear trailing arms, that keep the rear arms perpendicular to the chassis. When the wheels stop moving longitudinally under acceleration and changing front and rear toe, the car pulls straight. It’s that simple.