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The STU specific autocross thread would be a good idea, most everything in here is DS related at this point. I am thinking about going to STU next year but we will see what this year brings first.
The Autocross Thread
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Yeah, I suppose I went the non-traditional autocrosser route. I modded my RS to my liking first, and then I got into autocross. My wheels alone knock me out of the Street category.
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Not sure what region you race in or how competitive it is but how do you fair in STU? Some people that know the RS said to skip STU and go to ASP instead. Did you get a tune to help with power in 1st and 2nd specifically or just a tune for more power in general?
I race with Cal Club here in SoCal. You can say it's pretty competitive, with quite a few members that are multi-year national champions like Tom Berry and James Yom. While deep down I always want to win, my main objective is to just go out there and have fun pushing the RS' limits and hanging out with some cool people. That being said, I think I fare okay. Unfortunately, there's only a handful of STU competitors that run in Fontana, so I usually just see how I finished overall. I can tell you that out of around 150 people that run each event, my best finish so far was 32nd IIRC. However, I know I'm not running at the limits of what I can do in the class, so I know I could be faster. For example, I was only able to run no more than -1.8 degrees of camber. My new set up should allow me to run hopefully at least -3 up front, which I think will help a good amount. I'm also thinking of biting the bullet and getting some swaybars. We'll see how I go at the next one though.
Yes, I'm running a tune to help with the power. You can check out all my mods in my signature.
@Si2RS , I think our experiences are similar, and I've been placing around the same. I think the rear bar on its own made it worse, as the car was very prone to oversteer (even on the softest bar setting). I recently added the front bar, and I was 4-wheel sliding the last event -- so pretty neutral. That was my quickest event, and I got 26th fastest and 37th (934) PAX with 126 participants. A bunch of Porshe GT4's were helping get that fast time down.
I'm at -2.0 camber in the front, with the springs a hair from the strut towers, but will be going to coil overs this summer so I can get more neg camber. My region doesn't have events during the summer, so I don't have to rush that.
My local STU usually has an EVO, an M3, and sometimes a Golf R, though the EVO hasn't been there this season. It's a pretty lonely class, but as you said, it's cool just talking with your competition and everyone else there.
I'm at -2.0 camber in the front, with the springs a hair from the strut towers, but will be going to coil overs this summer so I can get more neg camber. My region doesn't have events during the summer, so I don't have to rush that.
My local STU usually has an EVO, an M3, and sometimes a Golf R, though the EVO hasn't been there this season. It's a pretty lonely class, but as you said, it's cool just talking with your competition and everyone else there.
Yeah, I'm running stock sway bars still. At -1.8 camber all around, I'm getting a lot of oversteer coming out of corners. We'll see what running more camber does for me before taking the plunge for sway bars. The install for the front bar looks like a pain. And with my OCD, I'd have to use the alignment pins to make sure everything is done properly.
I'd be up for lending my pins out, but I think you're a little far. Really, it wasn't nearly as big of a deal as I thought it would be. I did it on a lift, because even after seeing videos and pictures of the process, I was preferring not to be laying on my back for it. Having done it, I'd be ok messing with it on jack stands.
Replacing the front control arm bushings, that was a pain.
I did my rear bar first because it's a simple mod and threads here said it made a big difference. But I think the front bar is more important. A big rear bar does help FWD cars rotate, but when you're tripoding while power is going to the back, I think a bigger front bar is more helpful to keep the rear planted. It doesn't take that much power to over-power the rear tire(s) in that situation.
Replacing the front control arm bushings, that was a pain.
I did my rear bar first because it's a simple mod and threads here said it made a big difference. But I think the front bar is more important. A big rear bar does help FWD cars rotate, but when you're tripoding while power is going to the back, I think a bigger front bar is more helpful to keep the rear planted. It doesn't take that much power to over-power the rear tire(s) in that situation.
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210 Posts
The new series I'm in is using SCCA style rules so thinking of trying to get in BS instead of STU by switching to a 8" wide rim instead of my NT01 9" (9.5"?) but keeping the same 255/35 18" tire. Everything else is stock.
Does anyone have any direct experience with the two? I know the minimum recommended rim width for the 255 tire is 8.5"
I expect a bunch more vagueness due to increased sidewall movement, or am I mistaken?
Pic for attention.
![Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Tire Car]()
Does anyone have any direct experience with the two? I know the minimum recommended rim width for the 255 tire is 8.5"
I expect a bunch more vagueness due to increased sidewall movement, or am I mistaken?
Pic for attention.
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221 Posts
I run a 255 on an 8" wide rim as do most everybody else running in street class. I forgot the 18s are stuck in BS instead of DS like the 16 and 17s. I've mostly run RE71s and because they have such a stiff sidewall the roll over isn't too bad until the tires are fairly well used. The new REs should be out now or go with the RT660s for our camber limited setups.
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I’m running a very similar set up. Only difference is a steeda rear sway bar just for the added turn in off throttle (personal driving preference). I run 18s with a 235 flaken RT660. But recently bumped them to 255s. My first event with them is next week so we will see how the car reacts to the wider tire. Typically i finish top 10 in PAX and top 15 overall and first in DS (perks of no LSD) out of 140 cars. I’ll give ya some more info after this upcoming week.The new series I'm in is using SCCA style rules so thinking of trying to get in BS instead of STU by switching to a 8" wide rim instead of my NT01 9" (9.5"?) but keeping the same 255/35 18" tire. Everything else is stock.
Does anyone have any direct experience with the two? I know the minimum recommended rim width for the 255 tire is 8.5"
I expect a bunch more vagueness due to increased sidewall movement, or am I mistaken?
Pic for attention.
View attachment 360689
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193 Posts
I used to run 255 RE71's on an 8" wheel at 26psi... I think I'm in MOD now tough. running 295 Yoko's on a 9.5"
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49 Posts
Anyone going to the Philadelphia Mills Mall auto x on June 26th? I am running my 2018 Focus RS and still am unsure what class I am supposed to be in, but I am also looking forward to meeting other RS owners.
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49 Posts
Intake, exhaust, short shifter. My last run was at a BMW autox in the NJ chapter 35.131
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Oops I thought you were also asking for my latest run. Lol I was wondering why that mattered I didn't see your video link at first glance. Nice run!
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210 Posts
I think the intake and short shifter would put you into street touring.
Edit: And looking further, looks like the 2018 RS is in Super Street Touring (SST), but I'm fairly new to classing rules.
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221 Posts
What are your wheel pecs to run 295s and get them to fit? I'd love to see some pics of your setup too
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