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Do they get heat-soaked like the older RT-615 and the model before that (RT-215?). I used to spray my front tires down (on a fwd car) after a couple runs.
 

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Do they get heat-soaked like the older RT-615 and the model before that (RT-215?). I used to spray my front tires down (on a fwd car) after a couple runs.
May have to start bringing a sprayer for the tires And IC. The old concrete surface may really be heating them up but even my first two afternoon runs were slower.
 

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Car is running where I want in the pack now, finished 16th out of 64 raw time. Not bad for just wheels and tires. Used 35 psi front 28 psi rear hot pressures, could have even used a little less in the rear. Tried sport mode on the suspension for the first time ever on the last run and picked up almost a second. Can't wait until the next one
 

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View attachment 351032

Car is running where I want in the pack now, finished 16th out of 64 raw time. Not bad for just wheels and tires. Used 35 psi front 28 psi rear hot pressures, could have even used a little less in the rear. Tried sport mode on the suspension for the first time ever on the last run and picked up almost a second. Can't wait until the next one
You need more air in the tires. Not less. I’ve been on RE71s most of the last 5 years at national autoX events. Typically around 37/35. Most sites it’s track mode, ESC full off (button down for 5 seconds) and shocks back to soft. Car is only special on throttle, so find all the ways you can keep your foot down ; quicker back to gas etc


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You need more air in the tires. Not less. I’ve been on RE71s most of the last 5 years at national autoX events. Typically around 37/35. Most sites it’s track mode, ESC full off (button down for 5 seconds) and shocks back to soft. Car is only special on throttle, so find all the ways you can keep your foot down ; quicker back to gas etc


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So in my past cars I usually mark the sidewalls and see at what pressure the tire begins to roll over and stop there. 35 hot in the front was fine, the rears at 28 were not rolling over as much as the front. I had started at 32 in the rear and it was very loose in the slaloms. Progressed down to 28 and the car was faster and felt way better. I believe Hank mentioned he is running similar or lower pressures. I am running a 9.5" wide wheel if that make much of a difference. On the shocks we used to swap in stiff shocks on stock class cars to compensate for softer stock spring rates, I think the hard shock setting made the car faster but could be limited to my driving skill. I need to get better used to the rear diff, the torque vectoring/almost rear steer function makes me back off sometimes because it feels like the car is going to spin.
 

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So in my past cars I usually mark the sidewalls and see at what pressure the tire begins to roll over and stop there. 35 hot in the front was fine, the rears at 28 were not rolling over as much as the front. I had started at 32 in the rear and it was very loose in the slaloms. Progressed down to 28 and the car was faster and felt way better. I believe Hank mentioned he is running similar or lower pressures. I am running a 9.5" wide wheel if that make much of a difference. On the shocks we used to swap in stiff shocks on stock class cars to compensate for softer stock spring rates, I think the hard shock setting made the car faster but could be limited to my driving skill. I need to get better used to the rear diff, the torque vectoring/almost rear steer function makes me back off sometimes because it feels like the car is going to spin.
You turn the car on throttle. So what I mean, as soon as you turn the wheel , it’s back on gas. Like I said. The car is only good on throttle. So you have to brake slightly early to get back to gas quicker. Let the rear end dance, as long as you stay on gas it won’t come around.

In 1000 autoX runs over 5 years.. car has come around 3 times and those were “full send” let’s see if this works type of runs


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That's what I've been seeing too. Under gas it grips and gets around the turn (even with the rdu tune). The only times I've spun are if I'm carrying too much speed as I enter the turn and lift off the gas towards the entrance to coast a bit. I'm constantly having to remind myself to get on the gas earlier.
 

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It's official, Auto-x is returning to Cherry Point, NC in May!!! Have not raced here (in my back yard) since 2019!


EDIT: also note, there are two events that weekend on the same site. I think we are doing them as different points events so they are doing the multiple registrations. Easy to find if you look for more events from that organizer.
 

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People running lower tire pressures, are you on your sidewalls at all? Are you able to run lower pressures because of stiffer sidewalls and/or more camber? If I run anything less than 47F/45R then I'm on my sidewalls, but this is with Continental Extreme Contact Sport tires. At 340 treadwear, I'm looking forward to replacing them in a few months.

I'm wondering if there's some way I could get away with lower psi, especially in the rear... because the rears are only warm (not hot) by the end of the event. Since I also ran high psi on my prior car with Falken Azenis tires, I'm curious if there's something I should be doing differently.
 

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People running lower tire pressures, are you on your sidewalls at all? Are you able to run lower pressures because of stiffer sidewalls and/or more camber? If I run anything less than 47F/45R then I'm on my sidewalls, but this is with Continental Extreme Contact Sport tires. At 340 treadwear, I'm looking forward to replacing them in a few months.

I'm wondering if there's some way I could get away with lower psi, especially in the rear... because the rears are only warm (not hot) by the end of the event. Since I also ran high psi on my prior car with Falken Azenis tires, I'm curious if there's something I should be doing differently.
I was not, I was just above the wear triangle at 35 F hot front and a little bit more above 28R hot. I think a lot comes to play in this (tire type, tire dimensions, wheel width, ambient temperatures, suspension, lot grip) and you should just mark with chalk and adjust as the day goes on. This was my first time out with these tires so I will be marking, monitoring, and adjusting as time goes on. I was able to just beat a FBO meth RS on federal 200tw tires if that means anything.
 

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People running lower tire pressures, are you on your sidewalls at all? Are you able to run lower pressures because of stiffer sidewalls and/or more camber? If I run anything less than 47F/45R then I'm on my sidewalls, but this is with Continental Extreme Contact Sport tires. At 340 treadwear, I'm looking forward to replacing them in a few months.

I'm wondering if there's some way I could get away with lower psi, especially in the rear... because the rears are only warm (not hot) by the end of the event. Since I also ran high psi on my prior car with Falken Azenis tires, I'm curious if there's something I should be doing differently.
37/34 seemed to work best for me on old (but grippy) concrete. This surface seems to heat them up pretty good. Tires are 255/35 Falkens on 18X8s.
 

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Thanks for all the replies! I had been marking my tires and kept increasing the pressures to get to where I am. I do check and bleed excess between runs... usually only have to remove 1-2psi from the rears by the 4th run. This is on decent asphalt on a large skid pad -- not super grippy but not too bad. But I'll try a couple psi less on the rear and see.
 

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Thanks for all the replies! I had been marking my tires and kept increasing the pressures to get to where I am. I do check and bleed excess between runs... usually only have to remove 1-2psi from the rears by the 4th run. This is on decent asphalt on a large skid pad -- not super grippy but not too bad. But I'll try a couple psi less on the rear and see.
The tires you are running are “normal “ street tires. They will need more pressure to stay off the sides. The RE71 and 660 have much stiffer sides and can run lower PSI.


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So I have 2 events on my new Falkens now and they’ve really (just) started hooking up. Wondering if anybody else , who didn’t have them shaved, has noticed the same thing. Guessing there’s some oil near the top of the tread that has to be worn through. Back in the day, the old BFGs were the same way.

On another note.... since we’re chasing 10ths and 100ths, besides tires, wheels, seat time and a custom alignment has anybody that runs DS done anything to their car that they can tell made a difference ? I haven’t convinced myself (yet) that a K&N or a cat-back would do much.
 

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So I have 2 events on my new Falkens now and they’ve really (just) started hooking up. Wondering if anybody else , who didn’t have them shaved, has noticed the same thing. Guessing there’s some oil near the top of the tread that has to be worn through. Back in the day, the old BFGs were the same way.

On another note.... since we’re chasing 10ths and 100ths, besides tires, wheels, seat time and a custom alignment has anybody that runs DS done anything to their car that they can tell made a difference ? I haven’t convinced myself (yet) that a K&N or a cat-back would do much.
If you are serious about the 100th then the K&N and cat back needs to happen. Probably 3-5 HP and few lbs off the car.

I don’t know about you, but I could lose 20 lbs off me and probably get the same result


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