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SCCA Hawaii had their 8th event for the 2019-2020 season. I was able to pull through with a win in D Street against two Subaru STIs and a co-driven Civic Type R. It was raining pretty hard! I initially ran 30/30 square. After my 2nd run I jumped up to 36psi square and was able to pull my fastest run of the day in the pouring rain. I did sound off the decibel meter, though. I'm usually around 97 decibels, but I want to have some sort of fix I can perform during events and remove when I leave. I have an AgencyPower exhaust system that is 3" in diameter with no muffler or resonator. I was planning on buying some chicken wire to be used as a baffle in order to be easily removed. What set off the decibel meter was a loud pop that the RS is known for. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 

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Autox 01/19/20 Results. More information here.

Notes:
  • Fastest Time of the Day out of 61 drivers by 0.023 seconds. 1st in SM by 0.355 seconds. Even beat the Jr cart driver. ;)
  • Same RS setup as before. 3200 lb estimated weight today (1/2 tank).
  • RE-71R tires are now at 97 runs. They are DONE.
  • Odometer 5622 miles today. Drove to the event (10 miles from home).
My best run:
 

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For those of you running 255/35r18 RE71Rs on stock width rim what did you guys or the shop do to get the bead to seat? I had two shops locally give up today and couldnt get the bead to seat. I know they say you should have an 8.5 wide wheel but I've seen evidence in this thread of guys doing it so it must be possible.
 

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For those of you running 255/35r18 RE71Rs on stock width rim what did you guys or the shop do to get the bead to seat? I had two shops locally give up today and couldnt get the bead to seat. I know they say you should have an 8.5 wide wheel but I've seen evidence in this thread of guys doing it so it must be possible.
I just got some local guys here in Hawaii to do it. I’m set up with 255/35/18 on 18”x8” +45 RE71Rs. The guy who did it for me said it was really hard to do.


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SCCA Hawaii had their 8th event for the 2019-2020 season. I was able to pull through with a win in D Street against two Subaru STIs and a co-driven Civic Type R. It was raining pretty hard! I initially ran 30/30 square. After my 2nd run I jumped up to 36psi square and was able to pull my fastest run of the day in the pouring rain. I did sound off the decibel meter, though. I'm usually around 97 decibels, but I want to have some sort of fix I can perform during events and remove when I leave. I have an AgencyPower exhaust system that is 3" in diameter with no muffler or resonator. I was planning on buying some chicken wire to be used as a baffle in order to be easily removed. What set off the decibel meter was a loud pop that the RS is known for. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Put the mufflers back on. Sites are hard to keep. Sound is a big reason we lose them.


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Put the mufflers back on. Sites are hard to keep. Sound is a big reason we lose them.


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Trust me, you don’t have to convince me about keeping in line with the decibel meter and keeping a site. But I don’t have the luxury of buying mufflers and having someone install them for me. I spoke with some CAM guys and they were able to give me an answer.


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Crosspost from Hank's RS Build - From an Engineer's Perspective:
Quick and dirty TPMS reset. More information here.



Notes:
  • If your TPMS light ever comes on for running aftermarket wheels without TPMS sensors, follow the procedure below to reset it.
  • As seen in the picture above, place your factory wheels next to the aftermarket set. It doesn't matter what wheel/tire goes at what corner.
1) Air up the factory tires to 44 psig. Place them next to the aftermarket set.
2) Get in the driver seat with the key. Press the Ignition button once without the clutch depressed to the "ON" position.
3) Push the hazard light button (6) times within 5 seconds. The horn will sound once.
4) The message screen will display "TRAIN LEFT FRONT TIRE".
5) Make sure the Left Front factory wheel/tire is close to the aftermarket one at that corner.
6) Wait until the horn sounds once. I did not need to release any pressure out. Just wait a minute or so.
7) Repeat step (6) for each message, "TRAIN RIGHT FRONT TIRE" horn, "TRAIN RIGHT REAR TIRE" horn, "TRAIN LEFT REAR TIRE" horn.
8) After the horn sounds for the left rear tire, the process is complete.
 

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Autox 02/02/20 Results. More information here.

Notes:
  • Fastest Time of the Day out of 41 drivers by 0.279 seconds. 1st in SM by 0.279 seconds. A one two finish for the Focus RS duo!
  • Same RS setup as before (except rear tire pressure 21 psi). 3200 lb estimated weight today (1/2 tank).
  • RE-71R tires are now at 6 runs.
  • Odometer 5670 miles today. Trailered my RS to the event.
 

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Had a pretty solid result at the 2019 Packwood ProSolo. I won S4 and was #1 on overall index by 0.767sec.

Unfortunately, I shot myself in the foot for the challenge on multiple fronts. I already had the class covered when I put in a hero run on the left, which made my dial-in impossible. It was the fastest run of any car on street tires - just a tick ahead of the GT3s and ahead of the fastest STR car. Here's a video of that one -

I ended up pulling a .495 light in the first round of the super challenge to cap things off, my only red light all weekend.
I am just in my 2nd year of auto crossing. Buying new wheels and tires this year. I have an 18 so am in BS. Going to 18 wheels. What tires and size of tires are you running?
 

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I am just in my 2nd year of auto crossing. Buying new wheels and tires this year. I have an 18 so am in BS. Going to 18 wheels. What tires and size of tires are you running?


It’s 18x8 and 265/35 RE71 or Yoko 052. / if you want slightly easier mounting 255/35


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Who’s gonna test out the upcoming Falken rt660s for us? Our sizes are supposed to be available April/May timeframe.

They are supposed to be on par with RE71s, plus wear better.

I’m on ~50 run yokos that look like they’ll make it to 80-90 runs. I don’t think they’re much faster than RE71s, or at least I’m not, so I’ll go back to those. I have only done better in yokos with respect to consistent drivers on a wet day.
 

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I have an '18 RS and I'm wondering if there is an easy place to figure out what I can and can't do to it without changing autox classes. What class does it start in? I'd that region specific?

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I have an '18 RS and I'm wondering if there is an easy place to figure out what I can and can't do to it without changing autox classes. What class does it start in? I'd that region specific?

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Official rules:

Basically you're in B Street if you haven't modded it. You can stay there with the usual 200TW tires and 1 sway bar and a catback.. and shocks I believe. If you tune it, put on wider wheels, or change hardware with the turbo/intercooler/etc, I think that puts you in SM? No ST class for us :(
 

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I have an '18 RS and I'm wondering if there is an easy place to figure out what I can and can't do to it without changing autox classes. What class does it start in? I'd that region specific?

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Look up section 13 of the SCCA Autocross Rulebook. You can have an aftermarket air filter, a front or rear anti roll bar, 200 tread wear tires, and aftermarket wheels. Wheels must be OEM width, may be +/- 1” in diameter, and +/- 7mm of offset from OEM.

Example: your RS comes with 19”x8” +50mm offset. If you get yourself a set of 18”x8.5 +30 mm, that automatically bumps you a class. Wheel width and offset of big game changers because you can greatly improve handling by changing the scrub radius and having a wider set of wheels to go with wider tires.


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And if your car happened to come with 180TW Cup 2 tires when new, they are legal in street class at regional events, not national events. But there are faster tires than the Cup 2s, but if you just want to try auto-x and they are what you have they are not too bad. Just keep them cool, they will come apart if they get too hot (I know because my OE set that came with my RS lasted all of 2,300 miles). I still like using the Cup 2s for regional Time Trail events (using the Auto-x Street class setup in Sport class as allowed) as the car is almost 100% showroom stock minus my Ti catback.
 

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Do we know the offset of the winter wheel set up? I currently have 18X8 with a 42 offset, so I'm just out of spec. Just wondering if the winter wheels might provide a loop hole.

For this summer, I'll probably just throw the forged oem on and burn through the two year old oem tires (not cup 2s, super sports?).

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Do we know the offset of the winter wheel set up? I currently have 18X8 with a 42 offset, so I'm just out of spec. Just wondering if the winter wheels might provide a loop hole.

For this summer, I'll probably just throw the forged oem on and burn through the two year old oem tires (not cup 2s, super sports?).

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The winters were an additional option. They don’t qualify for 7mm rule.


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The winters were an additional option. They don’t qualify for 7mm rule.
Also, The winter tire and wheel package was never factory or port installed. Dealer installed options do not count as stock by SCCA rules. So you have to use the size and spec of the base or forged wheels, but I think the specs for width/offset were the same.
 

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Also, The winter tire and wheel package was never factory or port installed. Dealer installed options do not count as stock by SCCA rules. So you have to use the size and spec of the base or forged wheels, but I think the specs for width/offset were the same.
You're correct, both base and forged wheels are the same width and offset.
 
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