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"here to share what the NX2 and BP300 series cams can do"

Thats a hairy cam 3000 - 8000rpm why such a high revving race cam, love to here your views on the cam in conjunction with the NX2.

Did you have to machine the piston crowns to allow full lift?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Just noticed your Washington license plate. You drove the RS from Washington to New Jersey for the engine build?
Lol HELL NO, I’ve had a transport company ship it each time. Around $1200 each way depending on gas prices. It’s currently on its way back to speed performance right now for a thorough look over prior to sale, that was $1350 this time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
"here to share what the NX2 and BP300 series cams can do"

Thats a hairy cam 3000 - 8000rpm why such a high revving race cam, love to here your views on the cam in conjunction with the NX2.

Did you have to machine the piston crowns to allow full lift?
Negative, the clearance is close, but nothing to worry about. We made more torque and more HP than any BP285 car and the spool time is identical as well. The biggest issue with the cam is that to get the drivability dialed it took some serious skill and knowledge from Adam. The previous tuner had the car bucking and jerking so bad at 2500RPM you couldn’t even cruise it down the highway. After a full Day on the dyno and a full day street tuning Adam had this car driving like stock. So if you go with these cams there’s only one guy that can tune them right, and it’s Adam at Tune+.

mans to answer your questio, I chose the BP300’s because this car was purpose built for racing (used to have Motion Control double adjustable as with reservoirs on it but took those off and sold them for $5500 lol). Wanted a race cam.
 

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The Ford Performance cams are really very very mild with a red-line of 6500rpm and have less lift than the Piper Stage1 cams, which I think is 256 duration, the Piper BP300 cam is if you work in stages a stage4 cam 8000rpm red-line
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The Ford Performance cams are really very very mild with a red-line of 6500rpm and have less lift than the Piper Stage1 cams, which I think is 256 duration, the Piper BP300 cam is if you work in stages a stage4 cam 8000rpm red-line
Pretty much correct. Though we found there was no reason or gain in going past 7500RPM. With a massive turbo and a ported head you’d be ready for that 8000RPM mark. The NX2 just runs out of steam around 7000.
 

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Which transmission mount are you running? I bet the DSC controller and/or some better springs/dampeners would help as well getting the power down. What's another 1,000$ when you gone that deep already lol...
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Which transmission mount are you running? I bet the DSC controller and/or some better springs/dampeners would help as well getting the power down. What's another 1,000$ when you gone that deep already lol...
I have the full CPE motor Mount set. Stiff as balls. I had motion control 2 way adjustable coilovers on the car but already sold them. The only way to put the power down is dry weather with 200TW tires. Any moisture in the road at all no matter the diff tune just lights the fronts right up.
 

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What spark plugs did you use NGK, DENSO, Champion etc and what model number please.

I’m currently running DENSO ITV27 gapped as they come in the box.

How did the plugs you chose perform any fouling up etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
What spark plugs did you use NGK, DENSO, Champion etc and what model number please.

I’m currently running DENSO ITV27 gapped as they come in the box.

How did the plugs you chose perform any fouling up etc
Tune+ pre-gapped NGK’s. You shouldn’t be running any other option. They are available directly from his website for like $35. If your plugs foul up there’s an issue with your tune, fueling, oil in the cylinders, or a blown headgasket. So shouldn’t be experiencing that
 

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Adding the entire build sheet with prices for those who may be curious. View attachment 356130
View attachment 356131
That seems reasonable for a pro build. I especially enjoy the, meh, appearance of the finished engine. One of the things I like is the, under the radar, appearance of the RS (to the general public). It’s sort of a sucker punch. I overheard a guy, at a local car gathering, say to his wife, “Ah, somebody fixed up there focus“
I have to wonder, what’s on your mind for the projected RS3?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
That seems reasonable for a pro build. I especially enjoy the, meh, appearance of the finished engine. One of the things I like is the, under the radar, appearance of the RS (to the general public). It’s sort of a sucker punch. I overheard a guy, at a local car gathering, say to his wife, “Ah, somebody fixed up there focus“
I have to wonder, what’s on your mind for the projected RS3?
The RS3 will stay fully stock. After this car I’m done modifying modern cars. He RS3 will get a set of BC forged racing wheels and MAYBE front camber plates. I’ll likely start building an engine on the side for a future project car, just haven’t decided which power plant I’d want to go with. But I have time to decide lol
 

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Tune+ pre-gapped NGK’s. You shouldn’t be running any other option. They are available directly from his website for like $35. If your plugs foul up there’s an issue with your tune, fueling, oil in the cylinders, or a blown headgasket. So shouldn’t be experiencing that
Which NGK do you use ??

The NGK LTR71X-II the one step colder than the original spark plugs I get a miss fire, possibly due to the 13 litres of methanol mixed in the fuel tank.

So I use the three step colder plugs the DENSO ITV27 as I was recommended. Both the tuners I use recommended the ITV27's using the gap as supplied.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Which NGK do you use ??

The NGK LTR71X-II the one step colder than the original spark plugs I get a miss fire, possibly due to the 13 litres of methanol mixed in the fuel tank.

So I use the three step colder plugs the DENSO ITV27 as I was recommended. Both the tuners I use recommended the ITV27's using the gap as supplied.
I run E70 with the tune+ Pre-gapped NGK’s. Zero issues whatsoever with those plugs and ethanol. If your running straight methanol though I can’t help with you plug recommendations since I don’t run that. So follow your tuners advice and run the Densos
 

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Hey Focus RS dot org
Here to share my build. It’s a 2016 RS2 in NB, been building it about 2 years. The engine was built and installed at Speed Performance in New Jersey and the transmission/clutch and Dyno tune were performed at tune+ in Minnesota. Car is tuned on E70 (that’s what the pump was producing at time of the tune). We put 4 map slots on E70 to dial in the power depending on track conditions that’s why you’ll see for runs in the Dyno graph below.

Car is the current record holder for highest HP NX2 turbo car
View attachment 356106 Engine:
1.)
Speed Perf6rmanc3 stage 2 longblock (2.0L ST block stroked to 2.3L) Mahle pistons, Manley rods, king bearings, ARP 625+ head studs, o-ringed head, Manley valve springs, guides, retainers, 7* lock conversion, pinned cams, tear dropped crank, keyed crank Piper BP300 camshafts
2.)
precision NX2 turbo with tune+ WGA and GFB DV+ diverted valve
3.) XDI EVO HPFP
4.) XDI2000 injectors
5.) Tune+ NGK plugs
6.) ETS intercooler, charge pipes, intake
7.) Catless downpipe
8.) Radium engineering catch cans, baffle plate, fuel filter kit
9.) Magnaflow Catback
Suspension:
1.)
powerflex adjustable front camber bushings
2.) powerflex anti-lift caster bushings
3.) massive rear camber arms
4.) Whiteline front and rear sway bars
5.) steeda sway bar end links
Drivetrain:
1.)
built transmission: carbon synchros, stainless steel bearings, heat treated and micro polished gear set, Quaife LSD
2.) Competition twin disc clutch
3.) steeda clutch spring
4.) mountune PTU brace
5.) Coolerworx shifter (carbon shaft)
6.) solid shifter bracket bushings
7.) Cobb shifter cable bushings
8.) Rear diff tune (25%)
Brakes:
1.)
Mountune stainless brake lines
Tuner:
Adam Brunson @ Tune+

View attachment 356107 View attachment 356108 View attachment 356109 View attachment 356110

Nice build!! I am about to get my 2.5L from SpeedPerformance. I see you are not using Aux fuel rail, i went that route too, May i ask what hpfp are you using. I am assuming the +60% one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Nice build!! I am about to get my 2.5L from SpeedPerformance. I see you are not using Aux fuel rail, i went that route too, May i ask what hpfp are you using. I am assuming the +60% one?
Yeah the Aux Fuel is still “hooked up” because I need a custom line made for the HPFP to the ethanol content sensor. The one supplied in the XDI kit doesn’t work with it.

I have the XDI EVO so the highest flow. With the 2.5L swap you’ll likely need the additional lift pump upgrade to help with the fuel demand you’ll need. Those 2.5 swaps make a lot of power and loads of torque, just going to need more maintenance due to that massive stroke and piston side loading. Gotta pay to play for power though! Haha
 
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