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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So yesterday i installed a Cobb short shifter plate at 30%, and Cobb shifter bushings, and i’ve noticed since then, that on hard acceleration, as soon as i let off my stick wobbles for a second, i’ve observed it in 2nd, 3rd, and 5th. it’s very slight in 2nd and 3rd, but pretty harsh in 5th. it’s a little concerning, not sure if i didn’t get something tight or what. any ideas?
 

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Sounds odd and I would think the issue is more to do with the shifter cable and bushings. The 30% throw reduction isn’t excessive but you can try a different setting as a first step. Go over your work and ensure everything is as tight as it should be and seated properly. For example, check the shift cables are seated properly in their bracket located further back towards the firewall, and the cable bushing is snug over the nub attached to the transmission. Check for movement in the plate. For comparison, I have the Cobb plate set at 40% reduction, with Cobb cable and Cobb bracket bushings fitted and my shifter is absolutely rock solid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds odd and I would think the issue is more to do with the shifter cable and bushings. The 30% throw reduction isn’t excessive but you can try a different setting as a first step. Go over your work and ensure everything is as tight as it should be and seated properly. For example, check the shift cables are seated properly in their bracket located further back towards the firewall, and the cable bushing is snug over the nub attached to the transmission. Check for movement in the plate. For comparison, I have the Cobb plate set at 40% reduction, with Cobb cable and Cobb bracket bushings fitted and my shifter is absolutely rock solid.
Alright i’ll give that a shot, and make sure everything is tight. I had Cobb cable bracket bushings as well but i absolutely hated the quality of them and didn’t think they were much better than stock so I just left them out. i just hated the plastic, and they didn’t even meet each other in the holes so it was a pain to put into the holes in the bracket. Thanks for the reply!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sounds odd and I would think the issue is more to do with the shifter cable and bushings. The 30% throw reduction isn’t excessive but you can try a different setting as a first step. Go over your work and ensure everything is as tight as it should be and seated properly. For example, check the shift cables are seated properly in their bracket located further back towards the firewall, and the cable bushing is snug over the nub attached to the transmission. Check for movement in the plate. For comparison, I have the Cobb plate set at 40% reduction, with Cobb cable and Cobb bracket bushings fitted and my shifter is absolutely rock solid.
do you think it would be worth it to install the plastic cable bracket bushings over the rubber ones? it wasn’t too much of a hassle to get it out and if i’m already going back in there I can probably get it back out
 

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do you think it would be worth it to install the plastic cable bracket bushings over the rubber ones? it wasn’t too much of a hassle to get it out and if i’m already going back in there I can probably get it back out
Sounds to me like you’ve misjudged their quality and installation. The Cobb bracket bushings are manufactured in that hard nylon material to lessen vibration and harmonics, and to increase feel (so they claim and my experience agrees). The bushings press-fit together on either side of the bracket by using the bolt and washer tool to create an interference fit, meaning zero play, and won’t fall out during bracket reinstallation. The metal examples can get noisy as they get grimy and are a pain in the arse to install. I’ve done this mod a few times and IMHO its one of the best shift/feel mods you can do with relative ease - along with the plate and cable bushings. But it also depends on whether you like a firm shifter feel, which i believe in the RS helps you feel that awesome chassis tightness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds to me like you’ve misjudged their quality and installation. The Cobb bracket bushings are manufactured in that hard nylon material to lessen vibration and harmonics, and to increase feel (so they claim and my experience agrees). The bushings press-fit together on either side of the bracket by using the bolt and washer tool to create an interference fit, meaning zero play, and won’t fall out during bracket reinstallation. The metal examples can get noisy as they get grimy and are a pain in the arse to install. I’ve done this mod a few times and IMHO its one of the best shift/feel mods you can do with relative ease - along with the plate and cable bushings. But it also depends on whether you like a firm shifter feel, which i believe in the RS helps you feel that awesome chassis tightness.
I understand, I’ll have to look at the instructions. the video i watched on them was on said metal ones. thank you for the input! I’ll have to install them when i get back under there. i’ll post back on here if i have the same issues. thanks a lot!
 

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I understand, I’ll have to look at the instructions. the video i watched on them was on said metal ones. thank you for the input! I’ll have to install them when i get back under there. i’ll post back on here if i have the same issues. thanks a lot!
Gawd speed homie.
 

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How much is the deflection/movement you're noticing? Fractions of an inch? MM? Enough to pop back out of gear?

I think what you're seeing is the actual movement of the transmission being transmitted (pun intended) to the shifter. By switching to a short throw shifter, which reduces the throw length, you are keeping more tension on the shifter cable and reducing the amount of "slack". Couple that with the stiffer bushings, the amount of "give" that all the rubbery bits were giving for when things are moving around is now gone aswell. I think that's the trade-off for that "direct feel" every one is after unfortunately.
 

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Mine does this too. Only in 5th gear and decelerating from 45mph. Probably the car telling me that I'm in the wrong gear. I bought solid shifter bracket mounts to try next. I'm betting that it doesn't change anything with the vibration, but it should make the shifts feel better. Try retorquing the bracket bolts to see if they're the culprit. Just a guess.

It started when I installed the Little CNC shop hard cable bushings, and didn't change when I added the Autostyled short shifter along with the Ford short shifter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How much is the deflection/movement you're noticing? Fractions of an inch? MM? Enough to pop back out of gear?

I think what you're seeing is the actual movement of the transmission being transmitted (pun intended) to the shifter. By switching to a short throw shifter, which reduces the throw length, you are keeping more tension on the shifter cable and reducing the amount of "slack". Couple that with the stiffer bushings, the amount of "give" that all the rubbery bits were giving for when things are moving around is now gone aswell. I think that's the trade-off for that "direct feel" every one is after unfortunately.
It’s a couple inches. i tightened everything up and installed cable bracket bushings tonight and now the wobblr is gone in every gear but fifth. however there is still a huge amount of play in my gears which is odd
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mine does this too. Only in 5th gear and decelerating from 45mph. Probably the car telling me that I'm in the wrong gear. I bought solid shifter bracket mounts to try next. I'm betting that it doesn't change anything with the vibration, but it should make the shifts feel better. Try retorquing the bracket bolts to see if they're the culprit. Just a guess.

It started when I installed the Little CNC shop hard cable bushings, and didn't change when I added the Autostyled short shifter along with the Ford short shifter.
That’s pretty much exactly what mine does. I took the whole bracket out and put loctite on the bolts so they shouldn’t be going anywhere. from what i could tell, when it wobbles the main linkage cable moves front to back a little bit for some unknown reason. almost as if you’re shifting a gear but it still has that room to play when in gear.
 

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My rule of thumb is return to stock if you’re unsatisfied, and then compare. I should add that I have the Likewise “thicc boi” weighted shift knob installed which adds more fluidity to gear engagement, and also may be helping to keep the stick a little more rigid in gear. But as reported, it’s rock solid with almost no play.
 

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Are you on the stock RMM? Either way you should check it out to make sure the rubber hasn't deteriorated. I had problems shifting, turns out the bushings in my boomba RMM had partially disintegrated and had a LOT of play, allowing the engine/trans to move too much under load.
 

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It’s a couple inches. i tightened everything up and installed cable bracket bushings tonight and now the wobblr is gone in every gear but fifth. however there is still a huge amount of play in my gears which is odd
Did you do the cable adjustment?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My rule of thumb is return to stock if you’re unsatisfied, and then compare. I should add that I have the Likewise “thicc boi” weighted shift knob installed which adds more fluidity to gear engagement, and also may be helping to keep the stick a little more rigid in gear. But as reported, it’s rock solid with almost no play.
after the improvements, it’s barely noticeable while driving. after a day or two it doesn’t even bother me. i appreciate that though. i may get a weighted shift knob as well, i’m eyeing one from Latheworks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
a
Are you on the stock RMM? Either way you should check it out to make sure the rubber hasn't deteriorated. I had problems shifting, turns out the bushings in my boomba RMM had partially disintegrated and had a LOT of play, allowing the engine/trans to move too much under load.
my RMM is stock. i’ll definitely give that a check. thanks for the tip!
 

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after the improvements, it’s barely noticeable while driving. after a day or two it doesn’t even bother me. i appreciate that though. i may get a weighted shift knob as well, i’m eyeing one from Latheworks.
Glad to hear. With the reduction in throw and difference in gear engagement, as well as the extra rigidity and the connection you now have to your driveline, it may take a little time for your brain to adjust and accept. There’s a lot of bushings between you and the cogs in your trans, they’ll push pull and go through their own heat cycles, like a new car experience, till they eventually bed in. In the first thousand kms, mine emitted a rubber sounding squeak when engaging 4th - it went away. Sometimes when it’s cold, the stick needs a little bit of extra shove till fluids get to temperature and smooths out. But as you can tell, I believe these series of shifter mods positively transforms the RS and are hands down a no brainer for enhancing the experience.
 

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Quality of life changes are good as long as you recognize their limits.
When a manual gearbox is designed there are certain parameters to be followed.
One of them is longevity under normal conditions.
People often ignore the purpose of the throw, consequently they shorten it by 30-45 % and call it a day.
After a few months or more, they come back to the forums and ask for help as some gears no longer engage as they used too. Then we have the regulars chipping in with the old adage that the standard gearbox is crap. Half the time people change gears without the clutch pedal fully disengaged and completely ignoring neutral.

It is common knowledge that a shorter throw means less time for the syncros to do their job.
This will lead to all kinds of problems especially with Vin Diesel types who think a short throw can make gearshifts faster than a double clutch / automatic. The cherry on top is that with anything above 25% you need to be more careful how fast you engage the gears. To avoid damage to the syncros you actually need to be slower with a short throw than without it unless you double clutch.
 
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