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Did your wheel come with any documentation with it as to how it should be connected. I don't see any +12V through the clockspring to the wheel. I see a constant and relay controlled +12V to the Steering Angle Sensor Module (SASM).

The closest +12V sources I see to the steering wheel are at the SASM:
  • C226A Pin 1 - SBP07 - Wh/Rd - Always hot - Fused 7.5A
  • C226C Pin 3 - CBB37 - Wh - Hot with Ignition relay energized - Fused 15A

If you don't need steering wheel heater, my first guess at a good way of getting +12V power to the wheel I would first look at high jacking the steering wheel heater circuit (HTR SIG) with that switched 12V input at C226C/Pin3. May need to also redirect the (HTR RTN) directly to ground if it's not already routed through the SASM to ground. I've never had this area of car apart so I'm just looking at the wiring in my 2016 Focus RS Wiring Diagrams book, if the clockspring is really integrated into the SASM it may not be very easy.

I've lost my FSM CD and had to reset my Laptop so right now I can't look at more than the diagrams in my book. FSM may give more details on the how you may be able to get it done.
 

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I have no idea why they include the Power Steering Control Module in that PDF, it's not related to anything in the steering wheel. I'm looking at section 128-1 for the info that I see on the steering wheel heater circuit.

Looking at that info though I'd be very interested in C226E. Again, if not needing the heated wheel I think that is the best way.

I did look at your post just now, and in that video and some of the comments I answered some things I didn't know about the wheel, like that it gets its data wirelessly from a module you plug into the OBD2 port.
 
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PSCM is under the hood, no point in using that for power at the steering wheel.


The Horn switch goes to C218B-10 (Ground) and C218B-9 (BCM). I'm not sure the current, or even the voltage from the BCM for it to detect that the switch is closed to ground. I'm not sure I would use that for +12V, for ground, yes it should be a great place for ground if tapped in between ground and switch.

The most I can be sure of the circuit path of the horn switch is:
Ground (G201) -- wire (GD133/BK) -- C226B-4 -- SASM -- C218B-10 -- wire (GN) -- C260-2 -- wire (BK) -- C217B-1 -- Horn Switch -- C217A-1 -- wire (RD) -- C260-1 -- wire (VT) -- C218B-9 -- SASM -- C226B-3 -- wire (CRH01/BU-WH) -- C2280C-50 -- BCM
(edit) it is very possible that in the BCM that wire is more or less a direct connection to the ground side of the relay in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) that controls the horns. Perhaps the BCM has a relay in there as a parallel ground source for the horn relay if the alarm is sounding.

If you look at that diagram you have for the C218B you'll see several unused pins, look at the clockspring unit and see if any of those pins exist there, maybe you can use a continuity tester with with a loose clockspring to find any pins on the other side that may also be unused.

I can't directly share any images of the manuals I have, I can share the links to where I bought them though. 2016 Wiring Diagram and 2017 Service Manual (I bought the 2017 CD because I could not find the 2016 one for the RS)
 
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The way I read the heater circuit is that both sides, + and - are on relays (or some other current control) in the SASM. What I had suggested was not to use that circuit as it was, but to reroute that heater + to a tap into ignition switched +12V from C226C-3. The ground from the horn would be just fine for the shift lights. That is why I was saying the heater would not be used any more if you it was equipped. If a heated wheel is a feature you have and want to keep, I would suggest seeing if there are any unused circuits through the clockspring (looking for unused pins on either side and seeing if you can find a mate to it on the other side that is also unused.

I'm still dumbfounded at the idea that the company that sold you the wheel as no documentation on how it should be wiring into the RS, other than to state it needs ground and +12V, though.
 

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OK, Pin 7 (black wire if book is right) should be the Illumination 12+ in that is controlled by the BCM. I didn't realize that would be always hot while the car was on. I was thinking hot only while lights in steering wheel controls were on.

For testing I would want to hear back on (testing if the shift indicator works, or voltage on pin 7):
  • In the sun
    • Light switch off
    • Light switch on
  • At night or with sunload sensor blocked so car thinks it's night
    • Light switch off
    • Light switch on
      • Cycle the dash brightness from dim to bright (if voltage testing what is voltage at each step)
 

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There's several pins that that connector doesn't have wires to I'm going to get you a list of those pins If there's pins inside the connector the plug connects into one of them may just happen to be a constant 12 volts could know it goes to the assembly behind it somewhere I just don't know if any cable reel connections reach those pins and maybe because the wheel just didn't need constant 12 volt none of them were wired in but it gets to the where the plug goes maybe. And sorry if it's hard to read I'm using voice to text.
 

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Yeah I remember earlier on I'd mentioned that if you can find an unused pen going through the clock spring you could use that for 12 volt.
 
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Okay, googling some stuff from OHC motors it looks like I need to pass +12V dedicated through the clockspring. Should be doable, but I'll have to test for continuity myself. Looks like a real involved process. I'll report back once I figure out how to do it.

That is more or less my suggestion, find an unused pin where the steering wheel harness connects to the clock spring and then find where on that pin (if anywhere) is connected. I don't think the RS and Mustang part are the same, so I have no idea if the pins used by them are even an option for us.
 
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