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Anybody knows if there is a pin with +12V in the steering wheel?
I have a steering wheel with LED and shiftlight indicators, but i think i connected it to the wrong pin, works fine when using position light, but dont have enough power when shifting to low beam.

Also if running position light, and make a turn (power up one of the foglights), there is also not enough power for the steering wheel.
 

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Did your wheel come with any documentation with it as to how it should be connected. I don't see any +12V through the clockspring to the wheel. I see a constant and relay controlled +12V to the Steering Angle Sensor Module (SASM).

The closest +12V sources I see to the steering wheel are at the SASM:
  • C226A Pin 1 - SBP07 - Wh/Rd - Always hot - Fused 7.5A
  • C226C Pin 3 - CBB37 - Wh - Hot with Ignition relay energized - Fused 15A

If you don't need steering wheel heater, my first guess at a good way of getting +12V power to the wheel I would first look at high jacking the steering wheel heater circuit (HTR SIG) with that switched 12V input at C226C/Pin3. May need to also redirect the (HTR RTN) directly to ground if it's not already routed through the SASM to ground. I've never had this area of car apart so I'm just looking at the wiring in my 2016 Focus RS Wiring Diagrams book, if the clockspring is really integrated into the SASM it may not be very easy.

I've lost my FSM CD and had to reset my Laptop so right now I can't look at more than the diagrams in my book. FSM may give more details on the how you may be able to get it done.
 

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I asked the same question a month ago and didn't really get a response. Went to my dealer after having to order another clockspring and asked for the wiring diagrams. They are attached.

@Martin y I haven't wired my shift lights up yet but I'm curious which pins you used to make sure I avoid them.

-scarletrose
 

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I have no idea why they include the Power Steering Control Module in that PDF, it's not related to anything in the steering wheel. I'm looking at section 128-1 for the info that I see on the steering wheel heater circuit.

Looking at that info though I'd be very interested in C226E. Again, if not needing the heated wheel I think that is the best way.

I did look at your post just now, and in that video and some of the comments I answered some things I didn't know about the wheel, like that it gets its data wirelessly from a module you plug into the OBD2 port.
 
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Did your wheel come with any documentation with it as to how it should be connected. I don't see any +12V through the clockspring to the wheel. I see a constant and relay controlled +12V to the Steering Angle Sensor Module (SASM).

The closest +12V sources I see to the steering wheel are at the SASM:
  • C226A Pin 1 - SBP07 - Wh/Rd - Always hot - Fused 7.5A
  • C226C Pin 3 - CBB37 - Wh - Hot with Ignition relay energized - Fused 15A

If you don't need steering wheel heater, my first guess at a good way of getting +12V power to the wheel I would first look at high jacking the steering wheel heater circuit (HTR SIG) with that switched 12V input at C226C/Pin3. May need to also redirect the (HTR RTN) directly to ground if it's not already routed through the SASM to ground. I've never had this area of car apart so I'm just looking at the wiring in my 2016 Focus RS Wiring Diagrams book, if the clockspring is really integrated into the SASM it may not be very easy.

I've lost my FSM CD and had to reset my Laptop so right now I can't look at more than the diagrams in my book. FSM may gave more details on the how yo may be able to get it done.
Just read your post!

They gave the PSCM to link the relevant circuits back to electrical for the car. Yeah, there's a wireless adapter that hogs your ODB2 port and feeds information to the wheel wirelessly.

Finally realized what was going on with the wheel.

I looked over the entire clockspring with my voltmeter and didn't see an active >=+12V with the ignition on. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but on my original wheel I've also lost wheel illumination which leads me to believe I've blown a fuse or bent a pin somewhere (it makes sense I cut the wires in the video which are the cruise control ground and switch illumination on the wheel).

Anyway I live in a cold climate and like my heater so would like to keep it. I'm probably going to splice the steering wheel ground into C218B/pin 10 and try to pull +12 V in series with the horn. My wheel came with adapter pins to go through the horn circuit but it still needs a separate ground, which is what I was having trouble finding. If that doesn't work I'll route +12V through C218B/pin 9. I've verified that my wheel works with a test adapter down to +4.5 V and <500 mA so this should work. I'll report back when I get a chance to do it.

-scarletrose

PS is there anyway you can share that service manual? I have the 5k page workshop manual that shows you how to take everything apart but I think you may have a better more extensive manual. I can find a way to get you what I have as well, but I'm sure you already have it.

PPS The SASM is not electronically integrated into the clockspring as far as I know. They may be connected in series but you cannot access SASM power through the clockspring. The clockspring is definitely physically integrated with the SASM though.
 

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PSCM is under the hood, no point in using that for power at the steering wheel.


The Horn switch goes to C218B-10 (Ground) and C218B-9 (BCM). I'm not sure the current, or even the voltage from the BCM for it to detect that the switch is closed to ground. I'm not sure I would use that for +12V, for ground, yes it should be a great place for ground if tapped in between ground and switch.

The most I can be sure of the circuit path of the horn switch is:
Ground (G201) -- wire (GD133/BK) -- C226B-4 -- SASM -- C218B-10 -- wire (GN) -- C260-2 -- wire (BK) -- C217B-1 -- Horn Switch -- C217A-1 -- wire (RD) -- C260-1 -- wire (VT) -- C218B-9 -- SASM -- C226B-3 -- wire (CRH01/BU-WH) -- C2280C-50 -- BCM
(edit) it is very possible that in the BCM that wire is more or less a direct connection to the ground side of the relay in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) that controls the horns. Perhaps the BCM has a relay in there as a parallel ground source for the horn relay if the alarm is sounding.

If you look at that diagram you have for the C218B you'll see several unused pins, look at the clockspring unit and see if any of those pins exist there, maybe you can use a continuity tester with with a loose clockspring to find any pins on the other side that may also be unused.

I can't directly share any images of the manuals I have, I can share the links to where I bought them though. 2016 Wiring Diagram and 2017 Service Manual (I bought the 2017 CD because I could not find the 2016 one for the RS)
 
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PSCM is under the hood, no point in using that for power at the steering wheel.


The Horn switch goes to C218B-10 (Ground) and C218B-9 (BCM). I'm not sure the current, or even the voltage from the BCM for it to detect that the switch is closed to ground. I'm not sure I would use that for +12V, for ground, yes it should be a great place for ground if tapped in between ground and switch.

The most I can be sure of the circuit path of the horn switch is:
Ground (G201) -- wire (GD133/BK) -- C226B-4 -- SASM -- C218B-10 -- wire (GN) -- C260-2 -- wire (BK) -- C217B-1 -- Horn Switch -- C217A-1 -- wire (RD) -- C260-1 -- wire (VT) -- C218B-9 -- SASM -- C226B-3 -- wire (CRH01/BU-WH) -- C2280C-50 -- BCM
(edit) it is very possible that in the BCM that wire is more or less a direct connection to the ground side of the relay in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) that controls the horns. Perhaps the BCM has a relay in there as a parallel ground source for the horn relay if the alarm is sounding.

If you look at that diagram you have for the C218B you'll see several unused pins, look at the clockspring unit and see if any of those pins exist there, maybe you can use a continuity tester with with a loose clockspring to find any pins on the other side that may also be unused.

I can't directly share any images of the manuals I have, I can share the links to where I bought them though. 2016 Wiring Diagram and 2017 Service Manual (I bought the 2017 CD because I could not find the 2016 one for the RS)
That continuity map is super helpful.

The wheel is configured to have a pass through for voltage and current to make it to the horn. I believe this should be enough such that the shift lights have a complete circuit without the horn (I think the horn actually functions as a physical switch ie when you press the horn, you close the circuit and the +V will come in before the horn and go out through pin C218B-10). If pin 9 supplies more than +4.5V and a few hundred milliamps to the shift lights when the horn is active, the system should be fine, but I do hear your concern.

Even with a separate path to the ground you don't think that'll work? If not, I'll have to find another way to wire this thing that probably will delete the heater.

Re: the manuals, fantastic. I'll probably buy them both.
 

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That continuity map is super helpful.

The wheel is configured to have a pass through for voltage and current to make it to the horn. I believe this should be enough such that the shift lights have a complete circuit without the horn (I think the horn actually functions as a physical switch ie when you press the horn, you close the circuit and the +V will come in before the horn and go out through pin C218B-10). If pin 9 supplies more than +4.5V and a few hundred milliamps to the shift lights when the horn is active, the system should be fine, but I do hear your concern.

Even with a separate path to the ground you don't think that'll work? If not, I'll have to find another way to wire this thing that probably will delete the heater.

Re: the manuals, fantastic. I'll probably buy them both.
Just pulled out my functioning steering wheel and tried what I had proposed. I spliced ground through C218B-10 with power coming directly from the horn (I could fire the horn by touching the +12V out from the shift lights which means the horn circuit was complete with the lights) but the lights didn't come on. It turns out these things are directionally dependent current wise so that might be one issue. I also tried using it in place of the heater but couldn't get the circuit to activate. I'm at a loss for how to make this thing work now. I'm going to think about it more, but am quite disappointed that this is so difficult. I don't think its the wheel, I think the electronics in the car are very picky.
 

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The way I read the heater circuit is that both sides, + and - are on relays (or some other current control) in the SASM. What I had suggested was not to use that circuit as it was, but to reroute that heater + to a tap into ignition switched +12V from C226C-3. The ground from the horn would be just fine for the shift lights. That is why I was saying the heater would not be used any more if you it was equipped. If a heated wheel is a feature you have and want to keep, I would suggest seeing if there are any unused circuits through the clockspring (looking for unused pins on either side and seeing if you can find a mate to it on the other side that is also unused.

I'm still dumbfounded at the idea that the company that sold you the wheel as no documentation on how it should be wiring into the RS, other than to state it needs ground and +12V, though.
 

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Got a bit busy. They sent a wiring diagram, but suggest routing the circuit through the horn (that's literally all that was sent; I'll scan in the document when I get home). I've thought about it a bit more and am just thinking I'll tap power from the audio circuit. I think the reason this isn't working is because the i'm wiring the lights in a way such that the circuit isn't complete unless the horn is blowing (although I can't make the lights activate when the horn is blowing either). I can probably use the horn ground (this seems to be ground for a lot on wheel). I'll try it sometime this week and report.
 

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Finally got some time to look at this again. Took my car to the dealer for an unrelated warranty repair and told them to check the original steering wheel and they found a loose wire in the steering column that was keeping the wheel switches from illuminating. Got that subbed out and spliced +12V for the shift lights to pin 7 on the wire diagram attached and ground for the shift lights to pin 10. I've tested on my test stand with +12V and got switch illumination and shift light operation so I think that was the problem. I'll update with final install when I get a chance to do it, but this looks like it's solved for anyone in the future!

-scarletrose
 

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OK, Pin 7 (black wire if book is right) should be the Illumination 12+ in that is controlled by the BCM. I didn't realize that would be always hot while the car was on. I was thinking hot only while lights in steering wheel controls were on.

For testing I would want to hear back on (testing if the shift indicator works, or voltage on pin 7):
  • In the sun
    • Light switch off
    • Light switch on
  • At night or with sunload sensor blocked so car thinks it's night
    • Light switch off
    • Light switch on
      • Cycle the dash brightness from dim to bright (if voltage testing what is voltage at each step)
 

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OK, Pin 7 (black wire if book is right) should be the Illumination 12+ in that is controlled by the BCM. I didn't realize that would be always hot while the car was on. I was thinking hot only while lights in steering wheel controls were on.

For testing I would want to hear back on (testing if the shift indicator works, or voltage on pin 7):
  • In the sun
    • Light switch off
    • Light switch on
  • At night or with sunload sensor blocked so car thinks it's night
    • Light switch off
    • Light switch on
      • Cycle the dash brightness from dim to bright (if voltage testing what is voltage at each step)
Okay! Went out and tested after wiring everything up and getting it ready for the test stand. I found the exact behavior that you suggested. The buttons are always illuminated but they don't always send +12V to the steering wheel illumination. I had to toggle the headlights to send +12V but the system is also smart. If it senses more power being drawn through the shift lights, it cuts them instantly and resets. I bet there's some software fuse there that makes sure the wheel isn't shorted. I'm pleased because it's progress (I actually got power to the lights in the car) but I haven't yet figured out how to get +12V consistently to the wheel. I didn't want to cut any control switches but that seems like it might be the only other place to source power besides the horn and I haven't been able to tap into the horn correctly either as the circuit is never complete unless the horn is blowing. Any other suggestions?
 

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There's several pins that that connector doesn't have wires to I'm going to get you a list of those pins If there's pins inside the connector the plug connects into one of them may just happen to be a constant 12 volts could know it goes to the assembly behind it somewhere I just don't know if any cable reel connections reach those pins and maybe because the wheel just didn't need constant 12 volt none of them were wired in but it gets to the where the plug goes maybe. And sorry if it's hard to read I'm using voice to text.
 

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Yeah, just tried again using the exact same pins as the one suggested in the video. No luck. I think I just got hosed on shift light system as it doesn't mate to the car electronics. Oh well, what a shame.
 

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Okay, googling some stuff from OHC motors it looks like I need to pass +12V dedicated through the clockspring. Should be doable, but I'll have to test for continuity myself. Looks like a real involved process. I'll report back once I figure out how to do it.

 

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Yeah I remember earlier on I'd mentioned that if you can find an unused pen going through the clock spring you could use that for 12 volt.
 
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