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SPEED PERF6RMANC3 2.5L TopDog Engine - RS Build

18925 Views 122 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  mexrs
10
What a journey 馃槄馃槀 Lets not talk about the past!

My 2016 RS 15,000 miles now has the 2.5L engine from SP3 and if you want to learn about that engine, you can read about it here. Nishan, Jorge and everyone at the company has been great! 5 Stars. I was originally going to get the 2.3L engine but as I browsed the site I found the 2.5 and then I ended up upgrading to that. Also the folks at XDI have been great too.

What sucks is that I do not have E85 around here. It is not as easily accessible as in the United States so my power level will be lower that what i would otherwise be able to achieve. I am limited by pump gas 91 and WMI. So the engine may be considered overkill but oh well it runs and runs nicely.

Engine:
  • Compression 10:1
  • Sleeved 2L Block
  • Custom Mahle 2618 Pistons 89mm
  • Custom Manley I - BEAMS
  • SP63 625+ Custom 10mm Age Head Studs
  • ARP Main Studs
  • ACL Tri-Metal Rod Bearings
  • ACL Tri-Metal Main Bearings
  • Modified crank w/ Teardrop-shaped cavity
  • Keyed Crank, Timing Gear & Crank Pulley
  • Balance shaft delete Kit
  • Heat Treated In. & Ex. VVT
  • Custom BP285 Piper Cams with Manley 85lbs Valve Springs
  • O ringed cylinder head.

XDI EVO pump : At 200bar of pressure, the EVO pump flows 12% more than the XDI35 and 41% more at 240bar pressure.

XDI injectors : 50% more flow than OEM XDI-i010-50-4

Fuel Injector Technical Data:
  • 50% more flow than OEM
  • OEM 122lb/hr @ 100bar
  • 23g/sec at 100bar, 32.4g/sec at 200bar
  • 2000cc/min at 100bar, 2880cc/min at 200bar
  • 179lb/hr at 100bar, 253lb/hr at 200bar
  • Stable at 200bar even with OEM driver settings, completely linear flow

Quality Control:
  • Every injector flow tested on XDI proprietary DI test bench at
  • 0.8msec/20bar for idle stability
  • 10msec/100bar for static flow reference
  • 6msec/200bar for WOT performance
  • Every set high pressure matched within 1%
  • Every injector type validated for identical SOI and EOI via XDI proprietary injection rate measurement

Other Parts installed:
  • ETS filter and intake
  • ETS Intercooler and Charge pipes
  • Miltek Catless Downpipe Wrapped with Titanium wrap
  • NX2 Turbo with the PTP Turbo Blanket
  • Mountune 3" catback with no valve - V2X
  • Aquiamist Methanol kit
  • OMNI-Power 4 Bar sensor at the intercooler and intake manifold
  • Turbosmart twin port Wastegate [TS-0681-6142]
  • Turbosmart BOV but not vent to atm
  • Xtreme twindisk Clutch
  • LSD Quaife diff
  • Upgraded synchros and steel cage bearings
  • DSC contollor
  • Upr catch can, 100psi checkvalve
==========================================================================================

The install went smooth,

Gas Welding Event Engineering Machine


I ran into the issue with the turbo manifold not mating well to the due to a bolt that was disturbing and found a thread about it and did the same and now it is happily seated. The thread is over here. Got some pictures added to it. Came out well.

I then installed the transmission and realized i did not see the centering guides on the block and also realized it was missing for the starter too so i had some fabricated. So i removed the transmission and sorted that out and installed the guides.

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Engine was then dropped in with PTU and transmission bolted to it. I also put on the PTP turbo blanket and wrapped the downpipe with titanium wrap from autozone. Now that the car runs and no weird noises like the Esslinger Engineering engine, it is noticeably cooler under the hood too. I was impressed with heat reduction and more impressed as that means less hot air gets sucked in to the engine.

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I then added the Wire harness and connected everything. Oh, first i wrapped the wire harness with tesla tape 51036. That was some awesome tape made for wire harnesses. Awesome stuff. then I bled the brakes and clutch using the pressure pump and used MOTUL RBF 700 fluid. Used the Orion Motor Tech Brake Pressure Bleeder, they also sell a cap with a 90 degree bend as it would otherwise not fit unless you remove wiper etc. It was super easy to use...

I then had to install the XDI pump and the issue here is the hard tube. I had updated another thread and added pictures their. It turned out great, just need to be patient. I used a new tube and practiced on the old one first lol. Here is the thread.

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While at it i also added the radium catch can drain so i don't have to remove the can every time like before as it is in a tight spot between the battery and the hpfp. Cleaned and oiled air filter, changed the radium fuel filter, added 21oz of AC refrigerant. Also all bolts I torqued to spec and marked them for visual check later if needed.

In February i will need to get a new set of Michelin PS4 tires. Mine have good thread but having been out of service so long and little use they have cracks in rubber but not sidewall. Either way, deserves new tires and i will feel safer when we start tuning.

Also ordered Mishimoto MMODP-12175BBK magnetic oil plug just because i felt like it 馃槀 and waiting for the dsc controller that a member here sold me and shipped it. Entered customs oops. Was hoping it does not but oh well, we will see what they tell me.

I put the 10-40 Motul Break in oil and had to have it imported as they do not sell it down here I searched and even emailed MOTUL in Mexico and no go. I ran the cams for around 25 minutes between 2,200 rpm to 3,000 rpm to break them in. Now i am in the process of doing the engine break in. Every builder has their way, speed performance have it 1500 miles before tuning and WOT so I will get the miles as fast as i can lol. The first 50 miles i guess are the most important so i did my best accelerating up the gears to 3500 rpm and then engine braking and repeating the process.

Runs good, and i cant wait to red line it when it is time just to hear the sound lol.
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Ok air was next suggestion
Ok air was next suggestion
As in a boost leak? Another theory I was told was maybe condensation inside intercooler after holding steady speeds and humid conditions
Air leak of some kind a broken clip is usually favourite where it鈥檚 worn or been over tightened slightly or not tightened at all
Air leak of some kind a broken clip is usually favourite where it鈥檚 worn or been over tightened slightly or not tightened at all
and i'm assuming these air leaks are 2x more prone/common when running 2x the boost/power?
think the key is more not to overtighten them and if regularly removed and refitted use a new clamp, theyre not expensive
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my dad and i installed the pcv can and breather plate years ago. he suggested we use a different clamp on the cold side pipe (@ the TB). very 1st good throttle push knocked that thing off instantly.
it was a proper (told you so) moment. but i didnt say anything :LOL:
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i used Radium cans and theyre mostly AN fittings
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As in a boost leak? Another theory I was told was maybe condensation inside intercooler after holding steady speeds and humid conditions
even a vacuum line off will leak, admittedly not as much as an unclamped boost hose, but its meant to be a closed system. The ecu meters the air and a leak will effectively send it lean as air not just escaping but getting in too, hence the code
The KEY to secure boost tubes is CLEAN & DRY connections. If there is oil/grease, blow by, mould release, etc on the pipe or inside the hose it WILL blow off eventually no matter how tight the clamp. I鈥檝e NEVER had any tube, pipe, hose leak or pop off because I make sure every connection is clean and dry before attaching.

I ALWAYS use regular screw-type clamps because you can crush the pipe with those awful bolt-clamps.
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The KEY to secure boost tubes is CLEAN & DRY connections. If there is oil/grease, blow by, mould release, etc on the pipe or inside the hose it WILL blow off eventually no matter how tight the clamp. I鈥檝e NEVER had any tube, pipe, hose leak or pop off because I make sure every connection is clean and dry before attaching.

I ALWAYS use regular screw-type clamps because you can crush the pipe with those awful bolt-clamps.

My case was user error. I was under the car, removed and reinstalled the section that goes to the throttle body. Forgot to clamp the top clamp as I planned ti do it after dropping the car lol
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I'm having problems with the same p2195 code. New tune plus engine with piper cams making 30psi with stock turbo. 440 hp on 93 and wmi. I've been working with my tuner to track down the issue but haven't been able to fix it. What I have done trying to find the problem - New up and downstream o2 sensors, Smoke tested for leaks, New fuel rail sensor, New intake map sensor, Checked extreme di fuel pump, Waiting on new injectors.
let us know what it ends up being.
I would be looking at pcv leak or leak on the intake\vacuum side
Sorry, also replaced. Definitely no intake leaks. Smoke tested
after market map sensor?
after market map sensor?
All sensors used were OEM
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All sensors used were OEM
I ask since you said you are at 30psi and the sensor barely measures to 30 psi as far as I m aware. something like 29.xx
Sorry, also replaced. Definitely no intake leaks. Smoke tested
What was replaced and with what?


All sensors used were OEM
This concerns me, Oem sensors can only read 2 bar or 29 psi, you need uprated map sensors for high boost or you risk blowing your engine. Also as I understand it the stock turbo won鈥檛 get anywhere near 30 psi.

personally I think you鈥檝e missed something, who did the smoke testing, also have you checked the vacuum lines as well as intake.
What was replaced and with what?



This concerns me, Oem sensors can only read 2 bar or 29 psi, you need uprated map sensors for high boost or you risk blowing your engine. Also as I understand it the stock turbo won鈥檛 get anywhere near 30 psi.

personally I think you鈥檝e missed something, who did the smoke testing, also have you checked the vacuum lines as well as intake.
The stock turbo actually made 35psi because I have an upgraded wastegate. My turner then backed it down to the limit of what the stock map sensor could read which was 30 psi. All smoke tests and work on the car was done by me. 20 year promotional mechanic. Only I don't do is tune the the car
30 psi is outside the limit.
Did you check the vacuum lines
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