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2017 Ford Focus RS Nitrous Blue
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks,

A few weeks ago I got a red line at the top of my Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) screen that would come and go. Then last week, the screen started giving me quite the light show while I was driving (flashing, glitching, changing colours, etc.). The next day when I went to take the car out, all I got was a white screen when I opened the door, and the screen has stayed white since.

Speedometer Vehicle Odometer Tachometer Trip computer


Everything else works, gauges are fine, I can still change Drive Modes (by memory), and all the alerts seem to come through with the light between the temp/fuel gauges. I pulled the positive cable from the battery last night for 20 minutes to try a reset, but nothing changed. This actually happened a year ago too, right after I bought it, but it started working again until now.

Anyone else had this problem on their RS? Seems like it's common on other Ford models, and as such, aftermarket replacement screens are available, but they seem to differ depending on Speedometer type. However, I can't find anything specifically for the RS. The P/N from Ford (GM5Z-10D885-A) is discontinued. I think I'll pull the cluster and the display, see if there's a bad connection or something as a next step.

Cheers
 

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2017 Ford Focus RS Nitrous Blue
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If it were me, I would figure out how to get behind there and check to make sure everything is securely plugged in.
Yep, that's my plan of attack. I don't believe it's terribly difficult to pull the cluster out, and if it really is fubared I can try to get some more information on the screen to help me source a replacement.

We'll see if it's just a bad connection though, fingers crossed.
 

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2017 Ford Focus RS Nitrous Blue
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I think I'm in need of a new IPC screen. I pulled the instrument cluster out of the dash and removed the screen. Nothing terribly obvious was wrong, so I cleaned up the ribbon cable contacts and reassembled. Unfortunately, when plugged back into the car, I still just have the white screen.

I did pull a part number off the back of the screen (LQ042T5DZ14B) which will be helpful to find a replacement. I will say, it's surprisingly serviceable. Just remove the bezel below the instrument cluster, take out two Torx screws (T-25), undo the connector on the back, and then gently remove the whole cluster. Once out, there are eight tabs to open which will separate the housing and let you get at the gauges and screen. This will break a security seal, but probably not a worry for most of us. The screen just has two more Torx (T-10) to take out, then it will lift up and you can undo the ribbon cable.


Steering part Gauge Tachometer Plant Motor vehicle

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2017 Ford Focus RS Nitrous Blue
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well seems like just my luck. Took the car out to the store last night and now my tach is acting up.

Everything was fine on the way out, but right as I left the store I noticed the tach gauge was reading 350 rpm at idle. It was definitely not idling that low, and with a small blip of the throttle, it came up and stayed at 800 rpm for a few seconds, before dropping back down to 350 rpm.

As I continued on my way home, the tach read out was quite erratic. Sometimes it would show idle at 2000 rpm or higher. Sometimes it would react to revs, sometimes not. Sometimes it would show changing in rpm as I held my speed constant. Totally random. The other gauges are completely fine still (for now).

I can only assume I messed something up when I disassembled the cluster, but I can't possibly see what. I was extremely careful and didn't touch the gauge needles. I was also very careful not to touch the circuit boards for risk of shorting something out with static. There is a diagnostic mode I can try that includes a gauge sweep test, just hard to get there without the screen working. But I have a new screen on order so I can try to figure out everything next week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I got to the IPC diagnostic mode and performed the gauge sweep and zeroing test. Tach seems to be working correctly again. However, it almost seems like there's a slight catch on the needle travel when the revs drop. It goes up smoothly, and drops smoothly to 1000 rpm, but coming back below 1000 rpm it does like 4 steps, instead of smoothly dropping to idle rpm. I can't remember if that's what it did before?

When I take it out again to install the replacement screen I'll check that nothing is catching. I didn't mess with the gauge needles, but the backing may have lifted slightly when I pulled the gauge surround off and is impacting the needle travel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I'm all fixed up. I recieved my new display today, so I popped it in and everything is working great (so far)! I purchased a display on Amazon that was to replace P/n LQ042T5DZ14, which turns out to be the same as the Focus 140mph speedo displays you'll find online. Not sure if they're all the same though, so check your specific application first. The display I recieved is an LQ042T5DZ08, and supposedly manufactured by Sharp.

Speedometer Car Odometer Vehicle Motor vehicle


I also figured out why my tach was getting buggy. Very stupid, but when I pulled off the gauge lenses, the bezel was very lightly stuck to the gauge backing. So when the bezel came up, it must have pulled the gauge backing up very slightly at the centre. This caused the tach needle to stick here and there erratically. I pushed on the gauge backing by the tach needle and it clicked back into place. For good measure, I did the gauge sweep tests in the IPC diagnostic menu once it was back in the car.

Fingers crossed that's the end of my cluster troubles. Hope this will help someone else who runs across the same problem in the future.
 
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