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I snapped a spark plug in a very odd way, any ideas on How to get it out? New on the left, old on the right.
 

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I would soak it with Blaster overnight.
Use shop vac etc. when drilling for ez out, to get every shaving out of cavity.
Buy the most expensive ez out from NAPA etc. Don’t go to Harbor Freight for this one!!
 

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This is my biggest fear every time I change out my plugs! Please do keep us updated how everything goes.
 

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That’s a weird one. Just keep in mind for future these don’t take hardly any trq. Never should be enough for this to happen.
Although we ha e all had things happens and can’t say it won’t happen to me. How you can get it out without pulling head.
 

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This happened on my evo ix and honestly English racing who is pretty much considered gods among the evo group said the head needed to come off to do it properly so I had them pull my head it sucked but it was piece of mind knowing nothing got left behind with an easy out
 

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View attachment 351070 I snapped a spark plug in a very odd way, any ideas on How to get it out? New on the left, old on the right.
So we did end up getting it out without having to pull the head, we chiseled away at the ceramic until we could blow/pull it out, then we used an oversized tap to remove the treads. Was a true ***** to do tho and very nerve-racking. Thanks for the ideas though.
 

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A touch of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs will almost eliminate the possibility of this happening. I like to work the paste in by screwing the plug in and out a couple times before tightening it. It helps protect against technician over-torquing, too. Glad you got it out ok!

Jim
 

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A touch of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs will almost eliminate the possibility of this happening. I like to work the paste in by screwing the plug in and out a couple times before tightening it. It helps protect against technician over-torquing, too. Glad you got it out ok!

Jim
If I'm ever concerned a tiny amount of anti-seize goes a very long way. Just the tiniest dab at the beginning of the threads. As you I tighten it down it it will coat evenly.

But honestly, I haven't ever used it on spark plugs, I usually just run them down until the thread seats. usually they thread in smoothly right up until it seats then it does a full stop instantly. After that, its barely 1/16th of a turn to reach the torque spec.

Im' sure its in the manual somewhere, but for my TransAm with its AFR heads they use a gasket seat (not taper like most) and its only 18ft-lbs. I can barely feel that on a ratchet.
 

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A touch of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs will almost eliminate the possibility of this happening. I like to work the paste in by screwing the plug in and out a couple times before tightening it. It helps protect against technician over-torquing, too. Glad you got it out ok!

Jim
More likely to over torque the plug with anit seize than dry. Not saying dont use it but it's not going to protect you from over torqueing it's actually going to increase the risk.

Ciao
 

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So we did end up getting it out without having to pull the head, we chiseled away at the ceramic until we could blow/pull it out, then we used an oversized tap to remove the treads. Was a true * to do tho and very nerve-racking. Thanks for the ideas though.
Any insulating material end up in the cylinder?

Ciao
 

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Glad you got it out. Do you have a borescope to verify everything was removed from the cylinder?
 

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Plug threads are pre coated from the factory. NGK don’t recommend the use of anti seize
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Glad you got it out. Do you have a borescope to verify everything was removed from the cylinder?
I don't, but the cylinder didn't instantly explode. So that must be a good sign
 
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