[braap]

Impressive! My OG 2016 battery didn't make it past 2020.

 

[dejan]

My 2017 got replaced in 2020 also - could have gone a few more months probably but I'd rather replace it on my own schedule than have an emergency

 

[Jgray2016]

My 2017 got replaced in 2020 also - could have gone a few more months probably but I'd rather replace it on my own schedule than have an emergency

What symptoms did you have of the battery going, out of curiosity?

 

[dejan]

What symptoms did you have of the battery going, out of curiosity?

The biggest one was that after leaving the car at home for a couple of weeks the climate system reset to "Auto" mode (I never use it). I also checked the voltage a few times and it was very close to 12.0V after the car being off for a day so I figured it was only a matter of time before it gave up. And of course auto start/stop not working but this happened way earlier.

 

[braap]

What symptoms did you have of the battery going, out of curiosity?

Mine exhibited as gremlins. Start/Stop stopped working at some point, but I paid it no mind, because my first action on starting the car is to hit the start/stop button, so I couldn't even tell when it would have stopped working. The worst of the symptoms was when the car would go dead upon shutting off. You know how our cars stay alive for a while after you turn it off - lights, power, dash, some kind of moving flap noises, etc? Well, when I would shut off, every once in a while, the car would just go silent. Dead! No lights, no flappy noises. It also wouldn't start back up right away - I had to wait a while before it would.

Brought to the dealer, dealer had the car for 2 weeks: nothing. No idea. Can't replicate. Can't talk to Ford Corporate as I asked them to, because can't replicate. Here I am, thinking the car is toast, because electric gremlins are basically impossible to catch, and I can't even imagine how to go about fixing it, and Ford are being obtuse.

Someone here suggested that ST folks have seen gremlins with a dead battery. So I did some multi-meter probing, and the car did seem to have pretty low voltage on start. Well, what do ya know, got a new Optima H6 Yellow Top, and all's well! There was a small period of time where the first Optima I got had a dead cell, but after getting that one replaced, it's been smooth sailing.

Never got over Ford failing to diagnose this though.

 

[FastFocus]

An update a few days after this post, my car had the same symptoms of revs surging and idle and then stalled. I then got the following error messages:

• P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)
• P08B2
• P1548 Engine Air Filter Restriction
• P2195 bank 1 sensor 1 is too lean

Looking at the post for P08B2 error code I see someone resolved that by swapping the battery. I still have the same battery for when I got the car new in 2016...lol. So I think my next steps are clean the air filter / check to blockage or leaks, swap to a new battery/check grounding, and maybe check the MAF sensor? Does anyone else recommend other troubleshooting steps here? I'm out of the country for work for a bit which gives me time to get any replacement parts now

Thanks
-FastFocus

Another update: I've replaced the battery with a Optima yellowtop D35 battery and I still have the issue of revs surging at idle. Everything looked normal related to the air filter and intake (only noting because I had a P1548 Engine Air Filter Restriction error before).

I've noticed that the idle rev surge seems to mostly happen when everything is up to temperature and all the temp gauges are at operating temp. My work commute is a few minutes before I get on the highway, then ~45min highway driving, and at the end of my drive at traffic lights I notice the rev surging.

Here is another instance of the rev surging at idle. In this case the engine actually died and then kicked back on by itself while I was sitting in neutral.

I'm not sure the best logs to plot here to understand the issue and root cause, here is the actual log file if people with more insight than myself can dissect it: 2023-02-16_EngineStall

I've also still had the 2 error messages continue to pop up:

• P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)
• P2195 bank 1 sensor 1 is too lean

I'm running a stage 1 Mountune tune, NGK step 1 colder spark plugs, Mountune intake kit, UPR crankcase breather oil cap & catch can, and Mountune breather plate to highlight any engine related modifications that could be relevant

 

[axelr]

@FastFocus do I read correctly that you have +55% fuel trim at idle? I did not read the entire thread but if your fuel pressure is OK then maybe the injectors are clogged. Have you pulled them out? It's not too hard maybe 1 hour and they are out. If the tiny holes at the tip are clogged you can use an ultrasonic cleaner and renew them. SP63 proposes an injector cleaning service that does more, but then they cost $60-70 each new at Tasca so idk.

Ultrasonic cleaning works!

 

[fbaltona]

Another update: I've replaced the battery with a Optima yellowtop D35 battery and I still have the issue of revs surging at idle. Everything looked normal related to the air filter and intake (only noting because I had a P1548 Engine Air Filter Restriction error before).

I've noticed that the idle rev surge seems to mostly happen when everything is up to temperature and all the temp gauges are at operating temp. My work commute is a few minutes before I get on the highway, then ~45min highway driving, and at the end of my drive at traffic lights I notice the rev surging.

Here is another instance of the rev surging at idle. In this case the engine actually died and then kicked back on by itself while I was sitting in neutral.

View attachment 364995

I'm not sure the best logs to plot here to understand the issue and root cause, here is the actual log file if people with more insight than myself can dissect it: 2023-02-16_EngineStall

I've also still had the 2 error messages continue to pop up:

• P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)
• P2195 bank 1 sensor 1 is too lean

I'm running a stage 1 Mountune tune, NGK step 1 colder spark plugs, Mountune intake kit, UPR crankcase breather oil cap & catch can, and Mountune breather plate to highlight any engine related modifications that could be relevant

I had surging idle rpms while tuning after the latest Cobb emission updates.
It was all tune and nothing else. Tune was sorted and no more issues.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[FastFocus]

@FastFocus do I read correctly that you have +55% fuel trim at idle? I did not read the entire thread but if your fuel pressure is OK then maybe the injectors are clogged. Have you pulled them out? It's not too hard maybe 1 hour and they are out. If the tiny holes at the tip are clogged you can use an ultrasonic cleaner and renew them. SP63 proposes an injector cleaning service that does more, but then they cost $60-70 each new at Tasca so idk.

Ultrasonic cleaning works!
View attachment 364999

Correct, that's what it looks like. I didn't realize what nominal STFT should be until your reply, prompting me to do more research. So a 50% deviation from nominal (being 0) does seem like a problem. Looking through threads of causes for the lean code I think my next steps will be injectors, fuel rail, MAF sensor, or looking for air leaks.

I've been checking the STFT while driving the past 2 days and it's around max/min of +/-20% which seems a bit higher than comfortable and I still have the rough idle as these peaks

 

[axelr]

Correct, that's what it looks like. I didn't realize what nominal STFT should be until your reply, prompting me to do more research. So a 50% deviation from nominal (being 0) does seem like a problem. Looking through threads of causes for the lean code I think my next steps will be injectors, fuel rail, MAF sensor, or looking for air leaks.

I've been checking the STFT while driving the past 2 days and it's around max/min of +/-20% which seems a bit higher than comfortable and I still have the rough idle as these peaks

STFT slowly bakes into LTFT and therefore the short-term trim converges towards zero as the long-term one learns. If you just reflashed you might see high-ish values for a while then they “overflow” into the LTFT. In steady state at idle the STFT should eventually be pretty low.

 

[FastFocus]

Can anyone highlight where the MAP/MAT sensors on the RS are for me? In other threads it seems like cleaning these sensors with a cleaner can help a rough/surging idle so I want to try that. Seems like a quick job to see if there is an improvement.

I believe the air intake temp sensor is right after our airbox, correct? I'll also clean that.

My Ford has a ~6 week wait time right now for service so I figure I'll get these small checks out of the way in the meantime...

 

[Jgray2016]

Update... Mine is pretty much constantly idling at 1500 revs now with the colder than usual temperatures (-5°C to 0°C). I can get it to drop down to normal 800 by raising the clutch slightly in gear, then coming out of gear and sitting. But then it sometimes just randomly creeps back uo to 1500, despite me touching nothing .

Also, I notice this sound when turning the engine off. It definitely sounds like something is off with the mixture with the clunking sound at the end? (Ignore the squeak though, that's my dirty exhaust valve)

Does anyone know how to diagnose pcv issues? Someone suggested that to me, but I don't know where to start or where the pcv lines even are