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Has anyone replaced only the front tires due to wear or some other issue? I understand that the recommendation from the owner's manual is to replace all 4 at a time, but I am wondering if it would really be an issue if I just replaced my front tires. They are quite a bit worn down, whereas the rears have at least 10k miles left (estimate).

If the logic for replacing all four is so the ride height of each corner is even, well... my front is slightly lower than it should be due to the fronts being nearly bald and the rears having a decent amount of tread left. With that in mind, would it really be a bad idea to just replace the fronts and have the front end my slightly taller than it "should" be?
 

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Nope.... I know, I know... :(

I'm just surprised how worn the fronts are compared with the rears. This is a daily driver, no burnouts/launches.
FWD, RWD, AWD, you rotate the tires (if they aren't a staggered setup). You can rotate them at 3k or 5k but you must rotate them. At this point I'd replace all 4 and then start doing the proper maintenance. The engine is in the front, more load over the front tires. And there are times (mundane straight line boring driving such as cruise control) where the rears disengage for MPG purposes. My DD is worse about this than the RS. I rotate them at 3k.

If you are running the OEM wheels, they are only a 35 series tire. Given the cost of them I'd do what many of us have, and ditch the 19's for 18's, in a 235/40/18 setup. 18" tires are significantly less expensive than 19's.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
FWD, RWD, AWD, you rotate the tires (if they aren't a staggered setup). You can rotate them at 3k or 5k but you must rotate them. At this point I'd replace all 4 and then start doing the proper maintenance. The engine is in the front, more load over the front tires. And there are times (mundane straight line boring driving such as cruise control) where the rears disengage for MPG purposes. My DD is worse about this than the RS. I rotate them at 3k.

If you are running the OEM wheels, they are only a 35 series tire. Given the cost of them I'd do what many of us have, and ditch the 19's for 18's, in a 235/40/18 setup. 18" tires are significantly less expensive than 19's.

Yeah, I think I learned my lesson. I'm actually on 18" wheels already for some of the exact reasons you mentioned, as well as better ride quality. I'm running 245/40/18 on an 18x8.5" wheel. Thinking of actually switching to 245/45/18 for even more sidewall, if it will fit.
 

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Go ahead and just do the fronts, the car can handle the difference. I've put one new Cup2 on with 3 well worn tires, no problem.
 

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I did just fronts. Both ate up the inside edges at 34k. No excessive launches and no drifting per se (SC-2's just hook up too darned well!). No rotating. Backs are about ready at the moment, got a couple of k's left in them. Rear brake pads are up soon as well. Fronts are ok still. Almost 40K on the dial.
 

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Has anyone replaced only the front tires due to wear or some other issue? I understand that the recommendation from the owner's manual is to replace all 4 at a time, but I am wondering if it would really be an issue if I just replaced my front tires. They are quite a bit worn down, whereas the rears have at least 10k miles left (estimate).

If the logic for replacing all four is so the ride height of each corner is even, well... my front is slightly lower than it should be due to the fronts being nearly bald and the rears having a decent amount of tread left. With that in mind, would it really be a bad idea to just replace the fronts and have the front end my slightly taller than it "should" be?
Having had multiple AWD vehicles I will tell you that the reason you are supposed to replace all 4 at once is because of the transfer case, driveshafts and transmission (kind of in that order). Let me explain. When the tires are worn out say on the front then the amount of rotations they go through is greater than the ones on the back because of the size difference. The mechanical parts can tolerate some variation for a little while but they will give up sooner than later because of the constant bind they are in. On the RS I know that it is not a true AWD 100% of the time and it might be fine for a while but why take the chance. I hope this helps to explain it a little.
 

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Having had multiple AWD vehicles I will tell you that the reason you are supposed to replace all 4 at once is because of the transfer case, driveshafts and transmission (kind of in that order). Let me explain. When the tires are worn out say on the front then the amount of rotations they go through is greater than the ones on the back because of the size difference. The mechanical parts can tolerate some variation for a little while but they will give up sooner than later because of the constant bind they are in. On the RS I know that it is not a true AWD 100% of the time and it might be fine for a while but why take the chance. I hope this helps to explain it a little.
I'm afraid you are totally wrong. I think you need to do some research on exactly how the RS AWD system works including the overdrive function. Its not a Subaru or pretty much any other common AWD for that matter. More an FWD with AWD on demand.


Ciao
 

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I'm afraid you are totally wrong. I think you need to do some research on exactly how the RS AWD system works including the overdrive function. Its not a Subaru or pretty much any other common AWD for that matter. More an FWD with AWD on demand.


Ciao
You must have skipped over the last sentence, I know that the RS is not a conventional AWD system. I was simply explaining the reasoning why in an AWD vehicle you should change all 4 tires at the same time.
 

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I wouldn't worry about it, but I will agree that rotating is important and if you just replace the fronts you will be in the same situation again soon.
 

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I might be old school but I do not understand the logic of having brand new tires on the front and highly worn tires on the back.
Swap all 4, rotate, and do not put such a low price on your life.
 

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I might be old school but I do not understand the logic of having brand new tires on the front and highly worn tires on the back.
Swap all 4, rotate, and do not put such a low price on your life.
Because it's a (mostly) front-wheel drive car. The fronts are doing all the turning, the vast majority of the braking, and a majority of the power transfer as well. If you're going to have worn tires somewhere, it needs to be the back.
 

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Because it's a (mostly) front-wheel drive car. The fronts are doing all the turning, the vast majority of the braking, and a majority of the power transfer as well. If you're going to have worn tires somewhere, it needs to be the back.
Depending on your definition, this car with slicker tires in the rear gets real sketchy or real fun in a hurry when pushed at all. Drift mode in normal. But even driftier
 

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Because it's a (mostly) front-wheel drive car. The fronts are doing all the turning, the vast majority of the braking, and a majority of the power transfer as well. If you're going to have worn tires somewhere, it needs to be the back.

I knew RS drivers had a sense of humour but I gotta check : this is a joke right ?





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I knew RS drivers had a sense of humour but I gotta check : this is a joke right ?





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This is a manual for those who want to obtain their Drivers license in Luxembourg. This is EU wide applicable and on page 76 there is a phrase which contradicts completely what you said about tires.

The statement in bold explains clearly that the one with more thread always goes at the back. This is common sense and it is applicable on FWD, RWD, and QUATTRO vehicles.

So yes I think you made a joke, otherwise I hope people don’t read your post and take it seriously.






I was taught since before I had a license the way tires need to be rotated. Furthermore, last year I attended a full day on safety with some experts at the Ring and we tested the difference of worn tires on the front and worn tires on the back.

In a car like our RS, if you put your worn tires on the front you will have better overall grip than if you put them on the rear.

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I'm sorry you disagree, but I would much rather hydroplane the rear axle than the front. Whether you're handling the slide or the computer is, having the ability to steer the car is far more important to me than having stability from the rear axle.

Maybe I shouldn't assume most people have the car control I do, but I would always choose a loose car over a tight car.
So when we're talking about only replacing two tires, I think immediately about wet traction, and want my resistance to hydroplaning on the front axle. ESPECIALLY on a car that can choose (through power delivery, not braking) which wheel on the rear axle gets power.

EDIT: I completely understand what you're saying as far as experts and tribal knowledge. But my own experiences on skid pads have been different. No matter if it's RWD or FWD, I want maximum grip on the front axle.
 
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