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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
And; the most stupid thing of all in this case is the Ford dealership. I canceled the order for a new RTU module and they were very angry, but when questioning why I want to cancel the order I said; well ok, I buy this from you but you can't adapt it to my car as you don't service cars imported from America...the manager said well ok then and good bye. This is so stupid... Well done Ford.
 

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Well, there are electrical and module differences between the US and EU RS. I'm not sure about limitations Ford Europe may have on the dealer network service departments. But if their IDS is not licensed to support a US VIN I can see why they would not work on a non local market car.

Honestly I see no reason you would want to import a US RS over a local EU market car. EU cars had way more options and local store support. I think the only year RS that had features available in the US that was not in Europe was the 2016 with sync 3, but I think 2017 and 2018 RSs in Europe had that too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Actually, if we speak about for example the RTU module there is only one part number, and that's it. There is no EU or US speck. Regarding differences; tail fog lights, orange indicators, no suspension sensors for hid xenon headlights, in some cases orange day running lights, radio frequency differences and that's about it. Of course Speedo in miles not kilometres. Oh and the famous garage door opener button. There are really that many differences. Regarding IDS it's not the case that they support it. You can buy a IDS tool with online support and do this yourself, so this is not the reason why they don't support it. For example in Germany there is no problem in doing this in every ford dealership. When I ordered a sensor in another ford dealership (2km) from my home they could se the vin number from my car, and it actually showed a lot of stuff...so the case of them not willing to do this lies somewhere else.
 

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But what you can do and what a dealer is allowed to do when they are a Ford dealer or two different things. The BCMs are not the same between Europe and US. It was other differences The sensors for all the automatic headlight wipers as well you asked the 16 model had the area to support some of that but none of it was ever put in the car. We never had the city emergency braking feature. I mean the reason you could be simply that they don't want to support a car from outside the market area simply prevent people from feeling like they should be allowed to import them and use them as easily there because they make it difficult you're less likely to want to do it that may be all the reason they need I mean they're a business. Perhaps in some markets they have an issue with black market cars that were stolen in the US making it to those areas and they decided we're not going to support any US market cars in our area because odds are it might be a stolen car from the US. Again I don't know their reasoning but mean it is their business and they can pretty much choose not to work on something that's out of market area without having to give much reason other than it wasn't sold here it doesn't meet the configuration of the cars we were supposed to work on based on our training for Ford we're not doing it.

By choosing to buy an out of market car you choose to take it on yourself to do all the work automatically in my mind. If I bought an imported car from Honda that I can legally import the US now I'm not going to take it to the Honda dealer and tell them oh you have to work on this because it's a Honda. While the car may be very similar, there may be small variations unless they pay extra close attention to that they could mess up something worse on the car that they may be responsible to fix then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Yeah you're right. But it's a ford. It's as complicated as a bag of nails...at least they could say; yeah, we can try or something. If you give them the car to change the brake pads they will do this, because that's basic mechanics....but God now, if they need to plug it in and make some modes, codes say to the costumer please go for a drive, go through the gears and this will adapt...but as I said the problem is here in Poland. If you go to Germany, Czech Republic, Slovakia....for God sake
...even Hungary they will make what you need and want....
 

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Hi Ladys and Gents, I'm having Problems with my Focus RS 2017. With hard acceleration the AWD System ist cuttin off. Also no drive modes. And it's not happening everytime. New PTU + RTU. I did buy a new PTU and RTU fur small money but the RTU whithout the Module so I put the old module. The old RTU had some mechanical issues and also from time to time cutted of the AWD as well. But anyway - Iv'e scaned the car and diagnostics say that there is a Problem with the AWD Module. To be precise it's showing a code: U3000:92-2C. So I ordered a now module from ford. The price is not so high. So my question is: does someone know is it possible to change the module whidout taking the RDU out ? I usualy do what I can muself by every my car, (as I changed the RTU and PTU myself). Other thing is: does it need programing of flashing ? I want preserve this car becouse I love a fast Ford :) thx in advance for help. The guys from ford service don't know much about this car so it's better to hear from you all :)
I went through all discussion there and US and European RDU the same, calibration is the same as well, but new control unit is coming empty and needs to be uploaded (actually all software loaded to the vehicle and with ForScan you can do it yourself). My opinion that you have potentially two factors to look at: 1. control module failure, you can try to reset and clear the table, but I think you already did by clearing code and it didn't help, 2. one of the sensors which fitting control module malfunction and give the error which disable AWD, most coming issue is abs sensors, or cracked/dirty abs ring, or bad hub bearing and under high load (first/second gear) it slightly offset abs ring, but just enough to failure signal. My opinion you need to find faulty sensor or bad wire/connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Hey there. Well thx for the tips. For now it the problem comes back I will just take the module out becouse it could by demaged. But for now all is working fine. I'll keep you all posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Ohhh and also. If this problem does com back I'm betting on the module. To be precise the connector that goes from the module to the diff but inside the module. This module is getting very much vibrations so you don't have to know quantum physics to crack this gremlin. The whealberings front and Back are brand new, ordered in Germany original ford parts. The abs sensor front are also new, maybe I change also the back - it's not so expensive. Also I've cleaned the connector in the right back corner (this goes to the front of the car) but it was ok anyway. But as I said the problem is gone for now. I will be not driving the car in winter so let's see:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hi there. So the Problem came back. Not so many times but it came back. I did i think 400km from my last post. And it maybe came back 4 tomes. But anyway: the guy that did the adaptation online said that we should stick to the oryginal code - this says Controle Module error. So (becouse i don't belive in Ford beeing so complicated) i did get a random module for about 30% off new price (used). I swaped the module and all is good. And i think better as it was. The car has no rear hasitation when accelerating. I can tell you - it took 3 hours to take the old module out, and instaling the new one. The screws are unbeliveble ! with glue ! I was thinking half way taht this can't be done without taking the dif and suspention out. But went well. I already did ca. 250km and nothing, all i well. No adaptation, no codes no nonsense. Swaped and works. The numbers on the modules were not the seme, only one was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
So in my opininion: Great car, not complicated as some said (you have to code and many other stuff). The only thing stupid for me is that the module is in open area of the car, there ist heat, wibrations, dirt, water all can come in. I also fited the new module on rubber waschers, becouse it's just bolted metal to metal...Other things: well the big connector has only 5 pins connected, two of them is power supply. So I don't think this is getting many information ftom the car, I think ABS, TC and maybe steering angle. However the connector that sends stuff to the diff has many many pins so you dont't have to know quantum physics to understand that the magic happens in the module. Anyway i will get the old module fixed and keep just in case. And i susspect that the modules are foulty or just in the wrong place of the car. This schould be in the trunk nice and warm. As The RS is still not old i think this can help other users becouse for sure this will come up more often. Let me know what you think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Ohh and one other thing that I think will not be true: Well i don't think that if you buy a new module from Ford this will be (as they said) empty. There is no VIN identification in this module. I give it: 85% not true. In my opinion this will be ready to install and go. I had an F-150 5.0 and there was a ABS Problem. The code was for ABS Module Error. I swaped the whole ABS Pump with Module (from 4 numbers on the Part only one was the same) but the used part was also from the F-150 the same year 2014. And all was well. One thing that had to be done electrical was the brake fluid venting. Im normaly very stubborn guy, and I don't belive in good and honest service in the dealership.
 

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As I said, the configuration code from the RDU needs to be loaded into the control module for it to control that RDU to its fullest potential, and Ford warns that not loading that can cause RDU or other drive train damage. I didn't say it's hard or complicated, it's a simple concept, you just need the right tools/software to do it, and that you can't really expect a dealer to support a car from a different market.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Well from that what I've done in this case and fixed it by only swaping the module I would disagree in this. Maybe not that I disagree, more that I don't believe it. For this to by logical you need way more electronics (like pagiani Huayra with active areo etc) than in a hot hatch Ford. Not that it's not clever, but it's pretty basic. This kind of diff was already in Mazda MPS, like the engine. So really nothing New. Just bits that were in the factory.
 
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