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Used a full jar of fiberglass resin on my under tray. Since it's cold here I had to do it in my basement. Stunk up the entire house so had to take it out to the cold unheated garage. It might finally be cured after a few days. Ended up buying an aluminum under tray anyway since they are not too expensive.

Noticed that the front wind deflector had broken tab. Might try to JB weld that.
 

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Used a full jar of fiberglass resin on my under tray. Since it's cold here I had to do it in my basement. Stunk up the entire house so had to take it out to the cold unheated garage. It might finally be cured after a few days. Ended up buying an aluminum under tray anyway since they are not too expensive.

Noticed that the front wind deflector had broken tab. Might try to JB weld that.

i did the same in the summer - took forever to off gas

Seems sturdy enough for the coast
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Did you happen to get a weigh? I've been considering going with aluminum skid plate but 11lbs seems a bit much for the plastic clips to hold when doing track days. This might be a better and cheaper alternative :D
I totally forgot to get back on this one - sorry about that. While I did not weigh this prior, another member did the same and had - 3lbs 10oz. The weight of mine currently is 10.5lbs where the other member had his at 7lb 12oz.
My guess is the guys I took it to made it super thick or....

Something to note: I have seen this hold on to some water?? While having it off and leaning it up against a wall I have noticed that there is a puddle of water below it...this very well could be where my extra weight is coming from.

Still holding up so far and will continue to monitor.
 

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I had thought that using a bed liner product might be a good idea. It turns out that Eastwood has a bed liner material that can be sprayed, rolled or brushed on. I would probably opt for a roller, as it can add texture to the surface. Then, to fasten the panel to the car, I thought about replacing all of the plastic clips with riv-nuts and 6MM button head cap screws. The aluminum skid plate, mentioned in this discussion, comes with those fasteners; so why not use them for the factory panel? Might just turn out to be a really nice fix?
 

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Coat that thing in Line-X or something before you get it all oil and salt soaked. Those clips are cheap, it may be worth yelling at the dealer and them order the clips for you and you put them on.
Thanks Philofoc...I sent my Ford Dealer the photos and they came to my rural home picked up the car and replaced all the clips and bolts..then returned the car
 

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The guy who did my Line-x pulled the center clip then sprayed everything else, including the ductwork. The Line-X would have covered up the swaybar clip and made it non-functional so that was a good call.

I didn't think that the OEM plastic clips on the swaybar clip would hold the weight of the line-x and any extra snow so I upgraded the parts to stainless. IIRC it was 2x countersunk screws, 2x nylon nuts, 2x washers, all stainless. The countersunk side goes on the swaybar side and fit in the grooves of the plastic clip. I think the size was 1/4 diameter by 1/2 long. I took the whole undertray into Ace Hardware to test fit everything up. I don't remember the torque setting I used but something like flush + 1/8 turn should work. Don't forget to make sure you get enough threads to engage the nylon bits if you go that route, and nylon bolts are one-time use.

The plastic retainers on the sides are pretty much toast after pulling the undertray a bunch of times, but a 4-pack is 4 bucks at the dealer so don't bother going elsewhere for them. I had to carefully trim drips and overspray from the clip holes to make them work.
I've had my undertray coated with Line-X and will refit it this weekend. I've got some larger screws for the perimeter fixings so no issue there. My problem is the swaybar clip. Mine was missing so I've got one from Ford. I'm assuming it lives on the sway bar and was originally connected to the under tray with two push clips. I would like to do something more like what you described, but if the head of the bolt is between the clip and the swaybar, how can the head be held while the nut is turned? I thought maybe a carriage bolt (round head with a square shaft) could be used. The square neck retained in the clip to stop the bolt turning when the nut is turned. Thanks!
 

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I've had my undertray coated with Line-X and will refit it this weekend. I've got some larger screws for the perimeter fixings so no issue there. My problem is the swaybar clip. Mine was missing so I've got one from Ford. I'm assuming it lives on the sway bar and was originally connected to the under tray with two push clips. I would like to do something more like what you described, but if the head of the bolt is between the clip and the swaybar, how can the head be held while the nut is turned? I thought maybe a carriage bolt (round head with a square shaft) could be used. The square neck retained in the clip to stop the bolt turning when the nut is turned. Thanks!
You can install the clip permanently to the tray. When you take all the other screws off for maintenance all you need to do is pop that clip off the swaybar, I remember there was a hole in the tray for that purpose I think, been a while since I have taken mine off so others might add to this.

Just make sure anyone performing maintenance on your car is aware of that clip and doesnt just pull down on the plate breaking it again in the process…

Mine went missing when I still had the stock tray, probably due to some dealer mechanic…
 

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It lives on the under tray, I've attached mine with low profile hex head bolts on the SB side

Just remember to pull forward on the tray when removing it . . .

Dealers will always install wrong and/or destroy these
 

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You can install the clip permanently to the tray. When you take all the other screws off for maintenance all you need to do is pop that clip off the swaybar, I remember there was a hole in the tray for that purpose I think, been a while since I have taken mine off so others might add to this.

Just make sure anyone performing maintenance on your car is aware of that clip and doesnt just pull down on the plate breaking it again in the process…

Mine went missing when I still had the stock tray, probably due to some dealer mechanic…
That's a fair comment, but the new clip I have is very tight and would be difficult to clip off and on the sway bar.
 

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It lives on the under tray, I've attached mine with low profile hex head bolts on the SB side

Just remember to pull forward on the tray when removing it . . .

Dealers will always install wrong and/or destroy these
Thanks DeanHart
I'll get some bolts on the weekend and see if I like the idea of pulling the clip on and off (y)
 

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That's a fair comment, but the new clip I have is very tight and would be difficult to clip off and on the sway bar.
It's supposed to be tight. Start the tray at an angle, so the clip isn't trying to expand all at once.

When removing my tray, I always remove the torx first, then the front 2 push-pins, then slide the tray forward off the cross brace. Install is the exact opposite, and makes it much easier. Watching youtubers pull all the pins off, and struggle to get the tray back on, always makes me cringe.
 

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I've had my undertray coated with Line-X and will refit it this weekend. I've got some larger screws for the perimeter fixings so no issue there. My problem is the swaybar clip. Mine was missing so I've got one from Ford. I'm assuming it lives on the sway bar and was originally connected to the under tray with two push clips. I would like to do something more like what you described, but if the head of the bolt is between the clip and the swaybar, how can the head be held while the nut is turned? I thought maybe a carriage bolt (round head with a square shaft) could be used. The square neck retained in the clip to stop the bolt turning when the nut is turned. Thanks!
I used philips head countersunk screws, with the threads/nut on the bottom of the tray. I think it was 1/4" in diameter or so. I used the biggest one that would fit, and stainless fasteners. Still holding well after 3 years.
 
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