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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hate the fact that out under-trays seem like flimsy cardboard and felt. Most under-trays are rigid plastic, but these seem to shred pretty easy which prompts some to go with an aluminum setup (which I considered).

One member (and I can't find the post to give credit for the idea) had line-x'd his. I also considered using fiberglass on the whole thing to reinforce it too, but without the materials at hand and my time would probably cost around the same. So I followed the line-x way.

This thing is a lot heavier and feels tons stronger. If you can get the felt off the bottom side that would be best as the place I took it too was going to remove it but decided not to as it probably wasn't simple. I would have tried had they not said they were going to do it. Without the felt it would give a lot cleaner look and not be as bulky (see pics). The other side that didn't have the felt was perfect.
Only downside is it's now thicker, which means > The front 3 and rear 3 screws work, however the 4 clips will no longer work.

I was able to use some longer clips for the two front sides, however the two rear middle clips that go to the plastic C clamp that is around the bar are too difficult as longer clips hit the bar and shorter/original aren't long enough to go through. Those two clip really seem kinda worthless as the tolerances were very tight....so I just left them alone for now. I would like to put some there but the C clamp is kinda a pain to begin with...damn engineers could do a better job there?

If you decide to do this, maybe ask for a thinner millage.

Cost was just under $100

After a while I'll report back to how well it holds up.

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I also had mine done with line x . I’ve had it for a decent amount of time. All my clips still worked and it’s holding up very nice. I am gonnahave my next truck done that way cause they only last about 6months on my truck also
 

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I hate the fact that out under-trays seem like flimsy cardboard and felt. Most under-trays are rigid plastic, but these seem to shred pretty easy which prompts some to go with an aluminum setup (which I considered).

One member (and I can't find the post to give credit for the idea) had line-x'd his. I also considered using fiberglass on the whole thing to reinforce it too, but without the materials at hand and my time would probably cost around the same. So I followed the line-x way.

This thing is a lot heavier and feels tons stronger. If you can get the felt off the bottom side that would be best as the place I took it too was going to remove it but decided not to as it probably wasn't simple. I would have tried had they not said they were going to do it. Without the felt it would give a lot cleaner look and not be as bulky (see pics). The other side that didn't have the felt was perfect.
Only downside is it's now thicker, which means > The front 3 and rear 3 screws work, however the 4 clips will no longer work.

I was able to use some longer clips for the two front sides, however the two rear middle clips that go to the plastic C clamp that is around the bar are too difficult as longer clips hit the bar and shorter/original aren't long enough to go through. Those two clip really seem kinda worthless as the tolerances were very tight....so I just left them alone for now. I would like to put some there but the C clamp is kinda a pain to begin with...damn engineers could do a better job there?

If you decide to do this, maybe ask for a thinner millage.

Cost was just under $100

After a while I'll report back to how well it holds up.
Interesting, I actually went out to get mine quoted at my local line-x sprayer and they quoted me $60. I wasn't able to do it tho since I had a couple leaks (trans shifter housing and post-HG recall oil leak) that left the under tray oily. They were worried that cleaning it with a power washer won't be enough and may cause the line-x not to adhere properly. They requested I come back with a new under tray, but at about $300 a pop, I think I'm going to pass.
 
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The weakest part is when the central NACA duct gets filled with snow and sags then hits a chunk of ice on the road. This was my $4 solution. It still sags when loaded with snow but the mesh gives it more structural support to absorb the impacts. Granted, it's not pretty. It's been bashed hard a few times over two daily driven Alberta winters. The mesh is dented now but the tray is still intact.
 

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I had mine done in line-x too. It wasn't 60 bucks, but perhaps they charged me for prep (can't remember).

To get the plastic rivets to work on the sides, you need to shave down some of the line-x overspray/drips to make it work. It's a tight fit, but it works. For the central sway bar clip, I replaced those with stainless hardware from Ace hardware. I used some countersunk screws for the plastic clip / sway bar side and nylon washers for the other side. Super sturdy. I haven't gone through snow yet, but the thing is way heftier and I've had no issues with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
..... For the central sway bar clip, I replaced those with stainless hardware from Ace hardware. I used some countersunk screws for the plastic clip / sway bar side and nylon washers for the other side. Super sturdy. I haven't gone through snow yet, but the thing is way heftier and I've had no issues with it.
Interested in what you did here. Ever get a chance to capture the parts/pics, that would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Interested in what you did here. Ever get a chance to capture the parts/pics, that would be greatly appreciated.
The guy who did my Line-x pulled the center clip then sprayed everything else, including the ductwork. The Line-X would have covered up the swaybar clip and made it non-functional so that was a good call.

I didn't think that the OEM plastic clips on the swaybar clip would hold the weight of the line-x and any extra snow so I upgraded the parts to stainless. IIRC it was 2x countersunk screws, 2x nylon nuts, 2x washers, all stainless. The countersunk side goes on the swaybar side and fit in the grooves of the plastic clip. I think the size was 1/4 diameter by 1/2 long. I took the whole undertray into Ace Hardware to test fit everything up. I don't remember the torque setting I used but something like flush + 1/8 turn should work. Don't forget to make sure you get enough threads to engage the nylon bits if you go that route, and nylon bolts are one-time use.

The plastic retainers on the sides are pretty much toast after pulling the undertray a bunch of times, but a 4-pack is 4 bucks at the dealer so don't bother going elsewhere for them. I had to carefully trim drips and overspray from the clip holes to make them work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I didn't think that the OEM plastic clips on the swaybar clip would hold the weight of the line-x and any extra snow so I upgraded the parts to stainless. IIRC it was 2x countersunk screws, 2x nylon nuts, 2x washers, all stainless. The countersunk side goes on the swaybar side and fit in the grooves of the plastic clip. I think the size was 1/4 diameter by 1/2 long. I took the whole undertray into Ace Hardware to test fit everything up. I don't remember the torque setting I used but something like flush + 1/8 turn should work. Don't forget to make sure you get enough threads to engage the nylon bits if you go that route, and nylon bolts are one-time use.

The plastic retainers on the sides are pretty much toast after pulling the undertray a bunch of times, but a 4-pack is 4 bucks at the dealer so don't bother going elsewhere for them. I had to carefully trim drips and overspray from the clip holes to make them work.
I agree that this thing weighs a lot more with the line-x and am glad that 6 out of the 10 are screws - otherwise this would not hold with just plastic rivets.

The two outer clips I just used some spare plastic rivets that had a longer length that were a bit more stout (came from Mitsubishi). Those two by the sway bar though I am going to attempt your solution. It doesn't absolutely need it, however it would make it a little more secure as all the points of holding are on the outsides.

To trim out enough to use the stock clips, I would need to cut both sides of the tray to make it work - so if there is the possibility to use something else without trimming and keeping the rigidity of the hole, I'm game.

Thanks for the info - I'll take pics if it works out well.
 

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I agree that this thing weighs a lot more with the line-x and am glad that 6 out of the 10 are screws - otherwise this would not hold with just plastic rivets.

The two outer clips I just used some spare plastic rivets that had a longer length that were a bit more stout (came from Mitsubishi). Those two by the sway bar though I am going to attempt your solution. It doesn't absolutely need it, however it would make it a little more secure as all the points of holding are on the outsides.

To trim out enough to use the stock clips, I would need to cut both sides of the tray to make it work - so if there is the possibility to use something else without trimming and keeping the rigidity of the hole, I'm game.

Thanks for the info - I'll take pics if it works out well.
Did you happen to get a weigh? I've been considering going with aluminum skid plate but 11lbs seems a bit much for the plastic clips to hold when doing track days. This might be a better and cheaper alternative :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did you happen to get a weigh? I've been considering going with aluminum skid plate but 11lbs seems a bit much for the plastic clips to hold when doing track days. This might be a better and cheaper alternative :D
I did not but, I will and report back. Not in a rush yeah?

There are only 4 plastic clips on the original (the two for the sway bar, and two on the outer side), all others are screws going into plastic nut-plates. I should say - that is what I have on MY'18.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Are there any issues with the clips holding the additional weight? My clips have not been the same since the head gasket recall work.
I don't believe so, but again I credit that due to the 6 screws holding 75%+ weight. the only issue is the thickness with the liner added is where it becomes a problem. Didn't get time to weight it this weekend. Will attempt this week....
 

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Quick question on the undertray. In the middle air scoop, there is what looks like a metal plate attached on the outside. It appears there are screw holes in that plate....do those screws go all the way through the tray and attach to the bottom of the car? I noticed that it appears they are missing on mine and that center air scoop is dropping on mine.

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Quick question on the undertray. In the middle air scoop, there is what looks like a metal plate attached on the outside. It appears there are screw holes in that plate....do those screws go all the way through the tray and attach to the bottom of the car? I noticed that it appears they are missing on mine and that center air scoop is dropping on mine.

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Should be a plastic clip that attaches to that plate with Ford cheapo clips. It's the main structural point on the undertray. It snaps to the chassis brace.

Check the chassis brace the clip might be there. If so, bolt it to the undertray!
 

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Quick question on the undertray. In the middle air scoop, there is what looks like a metal plate attached on the outside. It appears there are screw holes in that plate....do those screws go all the way through the tray and attach to the bottom of the car? I noticed that it appears they are missing on mine and that center air scoop is dropping on mine.

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See my post here:

https://www.focusrs.org/forum/8-foc...rcing-under-tray-post2232582.html#post2232582

Follow the hyperlink to the part you're looking for
 

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Thanks for the info. It helped when I came in to get the area under the car looked at. As they have been servicing the car, the techs havent been making sure all the clips are back in. The good tech here that knows these care immediately spotted that the 2 middle clips hadn't been placed back on the nylon hangars on the bar above the middle of the tray.....drop gone all good.

Thanks for the help guys!!!!

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I still think the fiberglassed resin impregnated option is probably the best of the cheaper options that don't require an aftermarket tray.

I may take mine off and give it to the local shop and ask them to basically soak it in resin.
 

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I still think the fiberglassed resin impregnated option is probably the best of the cheaper options that don't require an aftermarket tray.

I may take mine off and give it to the local shop and ask them to basically soak it in resin.
Just be sure your undertray is clean. I had an oil leak (from HG recall) and trans leak (shift selector housing) that dripped all over the undertray and it made it so that the resin didn't bond very well even though I tried to clean it off (too soaked into the fibers I think).
 
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I still think the fiberglassed resin impregnated option is probably the best of the cheaper options that don't require an aftermarket tray.

I may take mine off and give it to the local shop and ask them to basically soak it in resin.
Man you brought back some beautiful memories for this old Canuck...building Myers Manx replica dune buggies in a two door garage gas station...the fumes at times made u see cars at the gas pumps that weren't there...lol..Speaking of NOT There_got new undertray on Warranty...changing snow tires realize they left off three of the eleven fasteners...
 

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Man you brought back some beautiful memories for this old Canuck...building Myers Manx replica dune buggies in a two door garage gas station...the fumes at times made u see cars at the gas pumps that weren't there...lol..Speaking of NOT There_got new undertray on Warranty...changing snow tires realize they left off three of the eleven fasteners...
Coat that thing in Line-X or something before you get it all oil and salt soaked. Those clips are cheap, it may be worth yelling at the dealer and them order the clips for you and you put them on.
 
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