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It actually still clips in just fine even with the broken tabs. Since it also is held in with push pins underneath it shouldn’t go anywhere. During ice racing it started coming off, but I was doing donuts in snow for 2 days straight so I didn’t expect anything else. Slush and ice got behind it (just like rocks in the summer) and had to wait til it thawed a few days later to push it back in


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Yeah I figured the corners would pull out first, the diffuser seems to naturally want to bend out of the corners already. Good to know it still holds under normal driving conditions.

The euro diffuser I bought used also had the tabs broken. I fixed them by bonding small .016” thick aluminum doublers behind each tab. I was trying to avoid doing this to the stock diffuser if I ever put it back but it works if you want to fix it as some point, especially the first two clips at each bottom corners which might be the most important clips of all 18 clips. It just takes some time!!

Used epoxy adhesive and clamps to bond them in place. I lost one at installation but I think all other doublers held fine. That one I lost was actually one where the adhesive did not cure properly (wrong mixing or not waited enough for the adhesive to “gel” before clamping the doubler in place).
 

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Sprayed the hooks in fire red this week. Just added P-Touch labels today now that the paint has dried so the one hook with the smaller flange diameter is easier to identify. It’s the only one of both the hooks I got that fits through the 1in hole in the rear diffuser. Dont remember if it’s my stock hook or the second one I bought on eBay though!

Paint is a bit cracked...was being impatient and sprayed clear over paint that was not fully dried the other day. Had to sand it off (as much as I had the patience to do so) and start over. It still shows a bit since I did not sand it all down.

They will be mounted only a few times a year and still look good. Can only be noticed when looking from a very close distance. Still happy with the overall result. Be patient and let the paint dry!!!
 

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by breaking every single tab :(
d'oh. So.... it's just removing those crappy little round plastic tabs (how many?) and then it comes off? I apologise for asking the simplest question... I've got the workshop manual but I don't understand the diagram that well and I'm waiting on a new jack to arrive to get underneath the car.
 

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d'oh. So.... it's just removing those crappy little round plastic tabs (how many?) and then it comes off? I apologise for asking the simplest question... I've got the workshop manual but I don't understand the diagram that well and I'm waiting on a new jack to arrive to get underneath the car.
Where did you get workshop manual from please?
 

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Okay so the best way I can describe it is the plastic diffuser is held on by about 4 screws underneath/behind which includes a thin metal heat shield. Once those are popped off, there are probably a dozen tabs that lock the perimeter of the diffuser in place.

now, the tabs are an odd setup. The ‘male’ end of the tab is built in to the bumper, and the ‘female’ side is on the diffuser, but at the same time these tabs are also male (yes I know that sounds stupid). They are these very thin walled plastic bits that if you ‘pull’ them out like a norma tab, they just rip open. Hard to tell but you can sort of see what I mean on the schematic below (number 10). I have no idea how people remove theirs without breaking every single one of them. You’d have to take off the bumper and do it from behind

340999
 

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First euro diffuser I bought had most of the tabs broken. I made thin aluminum doublers for each broken tab and bonded them using epoxy adhesive and clamps. Took a lot of time and patience but worked fine.

When I pulled my stock piece I also broke most of the tabs.

Backed in my motorcycle one day and broke the euro diffuser so I had to buy a second one! Bought new this time.

You dont absolutely need to pull the diffuser off to drill the tow hook hole. I think I posted some dimensions (and others might have done that too) that should allow you to drill a smaller hole to begin with, validate proper alignment and then enlarge in line with threaded insert in crash beam.

I believe the stock rear diffuser is pretty cheap too if somehow you mess it up!

Had to the use the rear hook when I crashed at ice racing this winter, I was glad I did this small and cheap mod!
 

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I'm wondering if you could do something similar so that the black part only has a thin slot with the strap showing through? Then no need for a plug. Could you possibly use a bolt from a licence plate mounting kit?
How in the world did you find horizontal lip surface?

Hey, you'd know this...how far can the RS be towed without causing damage to the RDU? I'm guessing you just put it in neutral and keep the speeds low? If you went off in a bad spot and weren't able to restart her, my local track could leave you with more than a mile of towing.
 

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I'm wondering if you could do something similar so that the black part only has a thin slot with the strap showing through? Then no need for a plug.
That would look good until you actually use it to tow. Since the strap is flexible, it would put pressure on the plastic bumper if it was towed at any angle other than perfectly straight.
 
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I'm wondering if you could do something similar so that the black part only has a thin slot with the strap showing through? Then no need for a plug. Could you possibly use a bolt from a licence plate mounting kit?
How in the world did you find horizontal lip surface?

Hey, you'd know this...how far can the RS be towed without causing damage to the RDU? I'm guessing you just put it in neutral and keep the speeds low? If you went off in a bad spot and weren't able to restart her, my local track could leave you with more than a mile of towing.
Your last question is a good one. I usually play it safe and rely on the owner‘s supplement.
Don’t tow it.
 
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