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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone fiddled around with their rear subframe?

I've fitted some wide wheels and tires and I've pretty well eliminated clearance between the tire and the fender. After fitting the new wheel and tire setup, I notice that on one side of the car, the tire protrudes a bit more than the other side.

I've previously owned vehicles with rear subframe and I know it's possible to loosen the bolts, give it a wiggle one way or another in order to achieve centering. I am wondering if there are any special considerations to take prior to or after doing this?



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Has anyone fiddled around with their rear subframe?

I've fitted some wide wheels and tires and I've pretty well eliminated clearance between the tire and the fender. After fitting the new wheel and tire setup, I notice that on one side of the car, the tire protrudes a bit more than the other side.

I've previously owned vehicles with rear subframe and I know it's possible to loosen the bolts, give it a wiggle one way or another in order to achieve centering. I am wondering if there are any special considerations to take prior to or after doing this?



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WHOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA. Stop right now before disaster. Sub frame use alignment dowels for one, during install. The automobile maker will have tolerance on specification which even though appear off or bad are actually just fine. One being the sub frame, as all allow adjustment after the critical locating points to the uni body. Leave that puppy right where its at..............
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks brother!

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If you drop your front subframe for example if fitting say a front ARB mark the subframe prior to unbolting.
As those dam alignment pegs have have a degree of misalignment available.
 

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Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks brother!

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Wheels
So what’s wide ?
9.5”+😉
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Öhlins R&T + cancellation kit (10 clicks F, 10 clicks R)
Ground Control camber plates (terrible customer experience with them, that's for another thread)
Massive UCA
Massive toe arms

Front camber -3.2
Rear camber -2.6

18x9.5 +38 Work T7R (no spacers)
265/35R18 Cup2

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Adding slides from Focus RS - Workshop Manual (I included the second slide just for additional clarity even though the sway bar has nothing to do with what I'm doing.

Torque:
1: 85 lb.ft (115 Nm) 6x big bolts
2: 18 lb.ft (25 Nm) 2x small bolts, exhaust hanger

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From the looks of the rear subframe in this service manual, the design of the locating pins and are near identical to that of vehicles I've worked on in the past. As long as those pins are located, and you've got the bolts installed, the subframe ain't going anywhere.

I'm going to take a stab at shoving the subframe a couple 2/3mm to the passenger side, and I'll report back. Alignment will be necessary after this. I need alignment anyway as I swapped camber plates away from Vorshlag (too tall), to Ground Control (I've had a very terrible customer experience with GC).


I also tried to plug the torque specs into my original post but it appears security features are not allowing me to edit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I loosened the subframe bolts (6x 15mm, 2x 13mm) a good 3 to 4 threads each. I tried moving the subframe by hand, leaning on it heavily, and it wouldn't budge.

I pulled out a couple bolts completely, and checked the holes and the subframe is clearance/slotted to either accommodate variances in unibody or possibly alignment. I would think I could get it to slide around in the clearance holes but no such luck.

This is how it worked in my previous experience but with this car I guess it's not that easy. I retorqued the bolts and went about my day. (Note: According to shop manual these bolts should be discarded when removed)

Going to do more research and possibly try again later.
 

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I have Ohlins on mine too -

Vorshlag plates are junk, the stack height is taller than stock and takes up all the bump travel - awful design / setup

Just swapped to GC plates - great quality and got 2.8cm of bump travel back with the same ride height
 

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I'd be massively surprised if you could loosen all these sub frame mount bolts and the sub frame could just be pushed around withing the confines of the alignment pins. This sort of thing usually requires some significant leverage application sometimes combined with impact to get stuff to move. You often then need to apply force to hold it there while you do up the mounts.
I would also think that a 3mm difference in clearance side to side would be whats realistically within manufacturing tolerances.

Ciao
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah you're right. The couple mm of clearance is just kicking my butt right now because of the low offset wheels. Definitely not noticable at all with the stock wheels even with 15mm spacers though.

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On my recent Audi, just as an example, there were just 4 bolts fixing the rear subframe - loose the bolts and the subframe falls down. Support it with a jack underneath, of course, and you can loosen the bolts maybe 10mm and from there can lower it slightly to get some wiggle out of it. It was never much, just a couple mm laterally.

The Focus RS rear subframe didn't move at all. It was pretty damn solid. I couldn't find any information in Ford technical documentation stating if it needs to be pried on at certain spots. Maybe I dig into the documentation a bit harder or hopefully a Ford tech will see this and chime in.
 
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