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Discussion Starter #1
Got bumped from behind by a Wagoneer on the way home tonight. Damage appears to be limited to rear bumper shroud but I haven't looked in detail.

I did search up this thread from the forum: https://www.focusrs.org/forum/17-focus-rs-appearance/70169-nitrous-blue-body-work-paint-doesn-t-match.html

Doesn't sound super promising, although it should help that only the bumper shroud needs replacement. What's the poop in terms of finding someone that can do paint justice to Nitrous Blue? Any recent revelations?

thanks,
Jeff
 

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Got bumped from behind by a Wagoneer on the way home tonight. Damage appears to be limited to rear bumper shroud but I haven't looked in detail.

I did search up this thread from the forum: https://www.focusrs.org/forum/17-focus-rs-appearance/70169-nitrous-blue-body-work-paint-doesn-t-match.html

Doesn't sound super promising, although it should help that only the bumper shroud needs replacement. What's the poop in terms of finding someone that can do paint justice to Nitrous Blue? Any recent revelations?

thanks,
Jeff
Look for a reputable Ford dealer owned body shop. Grabber blue is tricky let alone nitrous blue. Or ship it to gas in L.A. they'll make it perfect
 

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Candidly, I have little hope that your local Ford dealer with a body shop is going to match it.

First, many times a rear bumper hit transfers energy into the rear fenders causing slight deformation....so have it thoroughly inspected and again when bumper cover is removed.

Second, find a high end "european" paint shop that uses paint meters to measure the color and flake mix/ratios.

Third, perfectly matching paint of plastic to metal parts is virtually impossible on a high metallic content paint....even from the factory. Many things affect the final product, spray angle, painting gun pressure, humidity and drying rate of paint on plastic vs metal. At best, you can get close....or at least approaching factory levels....but they will never perfectly match. When you buy a heavy metal flake paint you are stuck with this reality.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks - good advice on the Ford body shop. Found one nearby and we'll see how this goes!
-j
 

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Candidly, I have little hope that your local Ford dealer with a body shop is going to match it.

First, many times a rear bumper hit transfers energy into the rear fenders causing slight deformation....so have it thoroughly inspected and again when bumper cover is removed.

Second, find a high end "european" paint shop that uses paint meters to measure the color and flake mix/ratios.

Third, perfectly matching paint of plastic to metal parts is virtually impossible on a high metallic content paint....even from the factory. Many things affect the final product, spray angle, painting gun pressure, humidity and drying rate of paint on plastic vs metal. At best, you can get close....or at least approaching factory levels....but they will never perfectly match. When you buy a heavy metal flake paint you are stuck with this reality.
For a living I deal with this daily. Biggest issue is flake size isn’t truly measured in a formal way. Next is agitation in POT while using keeping flake suspended in paint. Another issue is substrate difference and base hue offesets as few paint shops prime bumpers and panels with same primer. Next your DRY FILM THICKNESS or DFT is different when you paint repair Vs Oem. Paint manufactures have a DFT call out and this is insanely important. Or DeltaE is affected and anything greater than 1.00 is noticeable to trained eyes. My incoming paint must me .30 or I reject it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, understand. Honestly I've had poor luck with paint matching and quality of work no matter where I've gone. Euro paint shop matched well on the roof of my Audi S4 but did a pretty poor finishing job. Custom shop that does a lot of race and vintage cars did a poor job of matching on a prior Miata fender.

I'll give the Ford dealer a go and post results. Hoping they'll have better access to Nitrous metalflake match. We'll see.

Good call on looking for additional damage. After a closer look I found two tiny dimples in the hatch itself. I think PDR will be a better path to fix them than trying to fix (stud welder, putty, whatever) and respray.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pictures don't capture the bumper damage well, but here goes:

201905 Right Fender.jpg 201905 Bumper.jpg 201905 Left Fender.jpg 2019.05 Right Hatch.jpg 201905 Left Hatch.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
...after a long delay, the RS is back. Waited for ~7 weeks for the replacement bumper shroud (backordered). Surprisingly, the paint match (color, metalflake, clearcoat) is better than I expected. They did a combination of PDR and pulling with a stud welder on the hatch. Obviously painted the replacement shroud, and also repainted from the beltline down on the hatch. A few imperfections visible at 1-2' but overall an A- job by the Ford dealer. Certainly good enough that I'd be hesitant to take it back for re-work.

20190804_191426.jpg
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