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Nice! Wish RedLine would catch up. Thx.....
Same here. I buy RedLine oil in bulk, and I have enough for 1-2 more oil changes. But now I'm wondering about Castrol... or maybe Amsoil if I can successfully train my brain not to think of Amway when I see the brand.
 

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I've run amsoil signature since 20,000km (now at 65,000km). everything still looked brand new when i took out all the stock internals.
 

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I was sold on Amsoil years ago when we tore down my '66 Mustang's 289. That thing was pristine inside, completely sold me on Amsoil. I started using it in the RS at about 24k miles & will only use it going forward.
 

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2016, 35K miles. Mods: CAI, oil CC, e-tuned by Randy @ Mountune. NGX LTR7IX plugs, almost new (<1000mi). Motorcraft 5w-50 oil, 4500 mi since change, ironically planned to change it the next day. Shell 93 gas. HG done ~10K mi. Car has always run great, no codes, no misfires, no rough idle, anything like that.

I'm driving home with some takeout from our fave Thai restaurant, come up behind two cars going pretty slow as they're beginning to climb a steep, long hill. As there's 2 lanes, I decide to pass (I'm hungry). In 4th, going about 40 mph, and rather than downshift into 3rd I give it enough gas to get somewhere in the 45-50 range (maybe 2700rpm?), then floor it. About 2 seconds later, BOOM, white smoke pouring out, no power. Pull over, pop the hood, and see a piece of metal, and immediately realize what happened.

Pics show how the rod broke the oil pan - quite the explosion. Doesn't seem to be any damage in the front of the engine (not leaking coolant from the radiator). Given that the engine is tuned and "modded", I didn't even try to engage Ford. I already lost the battle with them over a clutch failure at 23K. Ordered an N1 long block from Mountune, and I'll have it installed at a local shop. Around $10K, all said.

Question is why? Possibilities:
  • Tune (although I've floored it many times, including going up this same hill).
  • Oil additives in the Motorcraft oil (fair number of threads on this, I didn't take it seriously at the time)
  • Shell 93 was not actually 93 for some reason. In fact, I usually buy Sunoco 93, but I was in a hurry and stopped at a different station this time.
  • Oil starvation from uphill acceleration (note - oil was at upper level)
  • Crankshaft balancer. Talking to the Mountune guy, he said the crankshaft balancer is a known cause of thrown rods, typically #2, if there's any oil starvation. All their engines have the balancer deleted, and also have baffles in the oil pan to prevent starvation in these situations. I can't tell if it's #2 in my case, but probably either #2 or 3 given how the pan broke.

Other thoughts? The N1 engine has mildly upgraded internals, but unless I can rule out the tune, I'll be sticking with stock tune for now. Question for the community - I imagine putting in a new clutch would be relatively little additional work while the engine is out. Given that the first stock clutch died so early, would it be worth putting in a quality aftermarket clutch? I like the stock feel & engagement, don't want something really heavy & grabby, just reliable. Recommendations? TIA.
Sorry about you losing your motor!
I've learned a lot from reading your post, but am a little confused. Does lugging your motor lead to LSPI??
Thanks
 

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Yes it can, keep the revs up as you should anyway. Using SN+ and SP oil will also help discourage LSPI. SN+ and SP apparently have less calcium and more magnesium in them to help the situation.
 

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The most prevalent situation for a catastrophic LSPI event is medium-to-high revs, let off the gas for several seconds to allow the engine to be driven by the wheels, then step on the throttle again = BOOM!

The pretty much single detonation event is caused by the residual fuel in the chamber after a medium-to-high load, combined with the extra oil that is pulled by the rings on full vacuum at medium revs.

The calcium in the oil mixes with the residual fuel around the outer area of the piston and creates a highly volatile "foam" that is ripe for ignition.

When you step back on the throttle, even lightly, the injector turns back on and sprays fresh fuel into the chamber on the compression stroke.

The crazy-volatile mixture explodes as the piston is around mid travel in the cylinder causing a sudden spike in cylinder pressure as the piston is rising to build even more cylinder pressure.

The related rod collapses "some", as they are generally forged, so they don't just snap. If the rod doesn't collapse far enough for the piston skirt to hit the crank cheek, then you may save a total destruction event. (my first failure scenario)

However, if the rod, rpm, and Load are such that the rod can fully collapse, then the piston pin area hits the crank cheek and twists/fails explosively, ventilating the block around the affected cylinder and taking out any components close by. It is a total destruction event. (my second failure scenario)

Now, there can also be much smaller, repeating LSPI events where the piston upper ring lands are cracked with much less destruction, but generally a true LSPI event is catastrophic failure of the rod and the block. The term "Low Speed" doesn't mean just above idle, it means "low" in relation to the maximum rpm where most non-LSPI detonation events occur.

These are the facts. You can believe them or not, but I have lived them... twice before I realized WTF was going on.
 

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I assume you’re asking me, FORZDA 2, not FORZA, which is a video game?

Answer is I don’t know about those forums as I don’t visit them. I was a member of the MAZDASPEEDFORUMS.org until it folded up.

There were a plethora of failures on the Speed3 & 6 DISI (direct injection spark ignition) engines long before LSPI was understood. Mine was one of them.

Mazda was the first to release the DI turbo engine in mass market vehicles and even they (Mazda) didn’t understand the problem or didn’t admit it as such.

Ford owned a big chunk of Mazda at the time and the Mazda DISI engine was based on the Ford normally aspirated Duratec engine, so Ford knows all about LSPI in great detail, yet they don’t talk about it in public.

They know so much that they went with dual injection systems in their High Output 3.5 v6 Ecoboost in the Raptor truck line.

I also own a 2018 Raptor that I’ve tuned to run 12.7 @ 108mph in 1/4 mile, completely stock otherwise. It weighs 6k+ lbs.
 

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My nephew has a 2007 MazdaSpeed6 and some of the parts on the RS would work on his like the intake manifold and the breather plate.

MS6 are more active in Facebook (or that's what he tells me).

They do talk about LSPI, funny thing was my nephew and I was just talking abut it a week ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Sorry about you losing your motor!
I've learned a lot from reading your post, but am a little confused. Does lugging your motor lead to LSPI??
Thanks
As others have pointed out, that's one way to put the motor in an LSPI-prone situation. In my case, I think there were other factors, like going up a hill, the oil, maybe the brand of gas. When I floored it, revs were ~2500, which isn't ideal but not extreme either. And the cylinder didn't blow until a couple seconds later, at which point I was going ~60mph and revs > 3000.

Pulled the plugs, and it was #3. Not sure if that indicates anything. Motor from Mountune should be here in a couple weeks, so I'm hoping it's back on the road by mid-Aug. Thanks to the well wishes from all!
 

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Yes FORZDA, apologies.....Well sorry for that experience. I too was a member of that forum and had an MS3 for 10 years. Tuned but on the stock turbo and I had no probs and didn't hear about LSPI until my RS.

Sure Ford knows about it but doesn't believe in the oil's contribution and recommends only SN rated oil for the RS.
 

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Really deep /Y\ Keep us up on your MT motor results. Curious to hear what they say about LSPI if you can ask them. I know you won't be testing the same conditions on the new one and it should be a lot tougher if something does happen, but still.
 
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