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id blame fuel. If it was tune related it would have died a long time ago

shell is apparently junk for these cars anyway, logs aren’t pretty when I’ve used it. So even if it was true 93, it’s no good


Almost 3000 rpm. That’s not low engine speed
I can’t say fuel I’ve run so much shell through my boosts even in my fully built rs. Never an issue.
 

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Sorry dude! LSPI - I never throttle up like that and use API SN Plus oil. Motorcraft is only SN. I use Amsoil Sig Series 5w-50. Hard to find a 5w-50 @ SN Plus rating specifically for LSPI. Time for a new build, better and stronger.
 

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No but it does break pistons and when you break a piston (as opposed to burning one) the rod follows in 99% of cases.

Ciao
In the worst cases LSPI degenerates to runaway detonation that melts the edges of the crowns. You lose a lot of compression, vomit oil through the breather, all kinds of nasty things but the connecting rods won’t even know what happened. A slow burn starting during the intake stroke is not going to do a thing to the rods, unless a piston seizes, but even then all wheels will lock before the rod breaks. More generally, 300g of aluminum don’t break 600g of steel.
 

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In the worst cases LSPI degenerates to runaway detonation that melts the edges of the crowns. You lose a lot of compression, vomit oil through the breather, all kinds of nasty things but the connecting rods won’t even know what happened. A slow burn starting during the intake stroke is not going to do a thing to the rods, unless a piston seizes, but even then all wheels will lock before the rod breaks. More generally, 300g of aluminum don’t break 600g of steel.
Should have been more clear, I'm talking 2.3 Ecoboost specific here. The pistons are the weak link in the 2.3 engine, they don't seem to burn a piston or break a ring land with LSPI they just break the piston in a major way and the rod follows. The rods are actually a forged unit and the pistons cast which isn't in itself a definitive piece of reasoning but in most of the rod failures on these engines I'm inclined to think the piston has failed first and the poor old rod gets the blame.
Once the piston starts hitting the head and or starts breaking up and or cocks in the bore it's all over for the rod as well. Then it "sticks a leg out of bed"
Ciao
 

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I’m seeing LSPI in my sleep!
Took a long ride Thurs., at one point I cane into a 40 zone, in, I think, 3 maybe 4 about 3Kish.
Touched the cruise, which I thought was set at 45 It was set at 65...caught it almost immediately, with heart palpitations! Understanding WOT is part of the equation...still freaked me out. Dolting owner, I guess.
 

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These motors are definitely happy above 3K. 0-3K rpm usually occurs in first only.
 

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Engine lugging has other variables other than speed and RPM.

Example is there is a hill for me to take out of our subdivision. 2nd gear is adequate enough to go up around 2,700 - 3,200.

I can up-shift to 3rd and it's around 2,500 rpm. If I try to give it more gas it actually does not go faster, I need to down shift. If I kept gassing it up I'll be making the engine work harder.

Sorry for the high jack @/Y\ OP, let us know how/when you get your car rolling again. 👍
 
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JeffSand - you're a funny guy and I agree.....Yes, there is now API SP rated oil but I don't see 5w50 yet for it. I'll use Amsoil until then and keep my eyes open and the revs up (like we're supposed to anyway). Have ur tuner open that damn wastegate in your custom tunes....
 

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JeffSand - you're a funny guy and I agree.....Yes, there is now API SP rated oil but I don't see 5w50 yet for it. I'll use Amsoil until then and keep my eyes open and the revs up (like we're supposed to anyway). Have ur tuner open that damn wastegate in your custom tunes....
I think they have another one as well - CASTROL EDGE
 

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The balance shaft assembly is junk in 2.0 and 2.3L EcoBoost. One of the big reasons for throwing rods out before the ring lands even starting to give up.
Most dyno guys do not prefer fuel with high detergents like Shell.
 

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Castrol Supercar (expensive AF) and Castrol EDGE both come SP 5-50w. (sn+). There are actually quite a few, but most aren't readily available in the US. I'm also checking into Valvoline racing 20w-50 (the 20w shouldn't matter so much here in Texas, but could up north) (it claims its above SN+, but may contain additives that encourage LSPI); my father swore by the stuff and 400k (still running and sold) miles in his Suburban with no rebuilds showed me that products protection potential.
 
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